HISPANIC NOTES *»• PENINSULAR SERIES HISPANIC HISPANIC SOCIETY PENINSULAR SERIES OF AMERICA HISPANIC NOTES & MONOGRAPHS ESSAYS, STUDIES, AND BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES ISSUED BY THE HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA PENINSULAR SERIES I THE WAY SAINT JAM! GEORGIANA GODP Prof' Colli MAYOR (From a Compostellan Azabache in the Hispanic Society of America) fcl G. P ,M'S SONS NEW V KX. AND LOHDOTf 1MO THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES By GEORGIANA GODDARD KING, M. A. Professor of the History of Art, Bryn Mawr College; Member the Hispanic Society of America In Three Volumes Volume I Illustrated G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK AND LONDON 1930 COPYRIGHT, 1920. BY THE HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA Ube ftnfcberbocber press, Hew Boris FOREWORD iii FOREWORD During my stay in Rome of two years and a half, I employed all the spare time I had from Books and Libraries in viewing the Monuments; and I at last prescribed to myself a certain Method in making my Observations so as to go through the whole City in twenty Days. This same I repeated as often as either at the Request of my Friends or for my own Satisfaction I surveyed the city, always allotting twenty Days to review the whole. — Pfere Montfaucon. FOLLOWING the precedent of the learned Benedictine, I have made one straight story out of three years' wanderings, and places visited and revisited. The outcome offers, I. Record first, a record of what exists, where other accounts are incomplete or inaccessible, II. Ex- and, secondly, an explanation of it. Spain planation HISPANIC NOTES I IV WAY OF S.JAMES I. Icono- graphy 2 . Chron- ology 3. TheCult of Santiago is a long way off, and pictures are not always explicit. It has taken seven years of my life. The writer's contribution, in particular, is first, a record and inter- pretation of iconographic detail all along the way, e. g., at Leyre from observa- tion, at Santiago from Aymery Picaud's account; second, an attempt to date, by comparison with such dated examples as exist, without any d priori; third and last, an occasional small hypothesis and the ground for it, e. g., about the original west front at Compostella, and the cult of Santiago. The general intention is stated at length in the first chapter; briefly, it was to dis- cover and record the evidence of Spain's debt in architecture to other countries, France in especial, during the Middle Age. By contrast with the French style which came in along the Camino francos, it was necessary to define the Spanish styles which that supplanted or modified, and was swallowed up in at last: this must justify the consideration given twice or thrice to earlier churches on sites now HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD occupied, especially to the earlier sanctu- aries of the Apostle. At Leon Sr. Lamperez had already made such a study. The intention being to supplement his work and Street's great book, not to compete with them, repetition of what Street had pub- lished is avoided and, in consequence, only a single aspect of each of the great cathe- drals can figure here. To deal adequately with any one, would want a book at least as large as this. For those who desire to secure facts while avoiding the context, a very careful Index is supplied. This makes it possible for the learned to look up a church un- molested by the dust of the highway, and even the learned may care to look into the pages for some of the churches which are, so far as may be ascertained, hitherto unpublished: of these are Torres, Bar- badelo, Puerto Marin. The writer has looked into a good many old books and not a few remote and distinguished periodi- cals. The excursus into what may seem the field of comparative literature, indispens- able to the argument, was long, laborious, Assertion without substantia- tion Compara- tive literature AND MONOGRAPHS VI WAY OF S.JAMES Compara- tive Religion and scrupulously at first hand . The religions of the Roman Empire were investigated in competent and first-rate authorities, which are enumerated in the bibliography. Cursor Mundi is cited so often, though an English work, because it is precisely what it calls itself, a Pilgrim of the World, that has gathered up an immense quantity of cur- rent and floating lore, and represents just what might be in the head of any stone- cutter or master of the works. It is a popular and plebian substitute for Vincent and Honorius. The Bibliography repre- sents not the books consulted but those which yielded matter of worth, — a very small proportion. In the Appendix are printed a few pieces justificatifs: quotations inverse or others too long for a footnote; the Grande Chanson des Pelerins, the Great and the Little Hymn of S. James and his Miracles out of the Ada Sanctorum, the Miracles of our Lady of Villa-Sirga out of the Cantigas del Rey Sabio, Thurkill's Vision, and a selection of Itineraries for the curious stay-at-home. Possibly it will be said that this little HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD Vll book is neither one thing nor the other, for it offers archaeology without jargon, and travel without flippancy. The writer's hope is that the learning, however small, may be judged sound, and the style not unworthy of it in being the ordinary vehicle, which is the daily speech of cul- tivated people: and that some worth and some pleasure may consist in the exact account of what was done and seen with the sense and in the light of a whole history and literature yet palpable and precious, though less familiar to the gentle reader than the immortal ambience of the Lombard plain and the hill-towns of Tuscany. To pay the gratitude I owe to all who have helped me would take too long a list: it would begin with the great S. James himself, with the good Companion of many days, with a great and generous lover of Spain; and end with the long suffer- ing guardians of books in many libraries, the good-tempered boys and girls who fetched and carried dusty piles, and the outraged librarians who despatched too Nor pedantry nor imper- tinence The Good Companion AND MONOGRAPHS Vlll WAY OF S.JAMES Kindness academic, ecclesio- logical. and clerical many tiresome loans by post. Some names however may not be omitted, nor may I leave unsaid my thanks, for untiring and learned assistance, to the Reverend Father Middleton of Villanova College, who has answered questions intricate and importunate ; to Dr. Wright and Dr. Patch of Bryn Mawr College, who have read a number of chapters in manuscript, and bet- tered them, and Dr. Frank and Dr. Bar- ton who have answered demands sudden and surprising; to D. Juan Agapito y Re- villa, the Vallasoletan architect and eccle- siologist, for precious time spared to me and the gift of publications, some other- wise unattainable; to my friend D. Angel del Castillo of Corunna for other articles and specific advice and instruction sim- ply invaluable; to D. Benito Fernandez Alonso, of the Commission of Historic Monuments in Orense, for many cour- tesies and gifts; also to Mgr. Ragonesi, the Apostolic Nuncio in Spain; to the Archbishops of Santiago and Burgos and the Bishop of Leon; to the Dean and Chapter cf Santiago and the Abbess of Las HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD ix Huelgas; to the Candnigo Fabriquero of Mondonedo and the Candnigo Archivero of 1 Santiago, and D. Felix Araras, Candnigo The glory Magistral of Burgos: and to twoscore of religion cine! of parish priests who without a single Spain exception offered me of their best, from erudition down to new milk, to the glory, i in the grand phrase of one of them — to the glory of religion and of Spain. G. G. King. BRYN MAWR, All Souls' Day, 1917. The illustrations are taken in part from old books and museum pieces, in part from coins, and I have to thank G. F. Hill, of the British Museum, for a generous gift of casts from some coins in that col- lection; in part also from photographs of my own, and others, better, of E. H. Lowber. For drawings of difficult matter I am greatly indebted to Miss Helen Fer- nald, Instructor in the History of Art at Bryn Mawr College. To the Curator of Publications at the AND MONOGRAPHS I WA Y OF S.JAMES Use Hispanic Society, Miss Isabel K. Macder- mott, the reader owes as much as the writer, for her long patience and vigilant oversight during the publication. For the use in Spanish words, names, and titles, she and I are responsible, jointly, but it seems desirable that I should explain the principles to which we conformed; Spanish names of persons and places, and titles of modern books, are spelled and accented in accord- ance with the latest rulings of the Spanish Academy; the titles of old books are given as the author gave them. But it is a proud truth that the relations between those of English and those of Spanish speech were not established yesterday, nor even during the Peninsular War, but are a part of the ancient heritage of the two nations, and the sign thereof is that Spanish places have English names. We speak of Seville and Corunna, Pampeluna and Saragossa, Castile and Leon, by the same token that Shakespeare wrote of Katharine of Aragon, and Seuthey of the Infants of Carrion rhyming to Robin Hood's Marion. Those names I have used as we say Venice, HISPANIC NOTES FOREWORD XI Rome, and Florence, Paris, Lyons and Marseilles. They are each a token and a pledge that insularity is merely geographical and not intellectual, that isolation on the other side of the world cannot cut off Americans from talking in free and homely speech of the great places to which they turn with ancestral love and longing. In referring to Kings and Queens of the Spains, and other saints or heroes, I have not been careful always to call them by the same name, but as Jack and Jill may be addressed as John and Joan at times, I have taken the liberties that old acquaint- ance allowed. To call Isabel the Catholic Elizabeth, or the English Tudor the Isabellan style (though others have done it), I should hold for presumption, but Ferdinand and Alfonso may alternate methinks with Fernando and Alonso when the chronicler or the hagiographer prompts, and S. James is still recognizable as San- tiago. This is not meticulous nor pedantic, but it is comfortable and easy, which is a great good in travel. G. G. K. Jack shall have Jill AND MONOGRAPHS xii WAY OF S. JAMES I HISPANIC NOTES CONTENTS xiii BOOK ONE: THE PILGRIMAGE CHAPTER PAGE I. INTENTIONS .... 3 II. TURPIN'S CHRONICLE ... 26 III. THE BOOK OF S. JAMES . . 4! IV. THE STATIONS OF THE WAY . . 64 % V. ROMEROS EN ROMERIA . . 93 BOOK TWO: THE WAY I. SETTING OUT .... 137 II. HEART OF ARAGON . . -152 Jaca: The Cathedral . .157 S. Juan de la Pena . . .165 Alfonso el Batallador . .192, AND MONOGRAPHS I xiv WAY OF S.JAM E S CHAPTER PAGE III. THE BATHS OF TIERMAS . 2O2 Leyre .... . 2IO Sangiiesa - 230 IV. PAMPELUNA • 253 V. SAINT SEPULCHRE . 286 Puente la Reyna - 294 El Sepulcro . • 309 VI. TOWN CHURCHES • 324 Irache .... • 357 * VII. THE LOGRONO ROAD . . 366 The Spires of Logrono • 370 Along the Battlefield . 381 S. Mary the Royal . • 394 VIII. TWO ROAD-MENDERS . . 406 Sieur des Orties • 431 NOTES .... • 44» I HISPANIC NOT ES ILLUSTRATIONS XV ILLUSTRATIONS SANTIAGO MAYOR . Frontispiece PAGE S. JAMES: FROM BERRUGUETE'S TOMB OF CARDINAL TAVERA . . -51 THE SOUL AS PILGRIM. ". . .125 From a miniature of the XVth cen- tury THE CREST OF THE PYRENEES . . 139 Photogravure A PYRENEAN VILLAGE . . -149 S. JAMES AND PILGRIM: FROM S. CERNIN 179 EUNATE . . . . ... 231 Photogravure THE QUEEN'S BRIDGE . . . 286 Photogravure EL SEPULCRO 311 AND MONOGRAPHS I xvi WAY OF S.JAMES PAGE THE THURSDAY MARKET IN ESTELLA . 327 CAPITAL AT ESTELLA .... 349 THE DOOR OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE . 405 A MOUNTAIN TOWN .... 409 * I HISPANIC NOTES BOOK ONE i BOOK ONE THE PILGRIMAGE AND MONOGRAPHS I 2 WAY OF S. JA ME S Grot Sanctiagu! Herru Sanctiagul E ultrejaf E sus, ejal Deus adjuva nost — Marching Song. I HISPANIC NOTES / THE PILGRIMAGE 3 I INTENTIONS C'est souvent sur les grands chemins que la vtritt apparatt aux cher- cheurs, ainsi qu'aux croy- ants.— Courajod. THE original intention of this book was to examine the claims for the sources of Spanish architecture in the Gothic and Romanesque period. They are various. Was everything invented in Persia? Or in Syria, or Asia Minor, or Mesopotamia? Was everything borrowed from France? Was nothing learned from outside the Peninsula? M. Dieulafoy will have it that all the structural forms of Romanesque came :rom Persia to Spain, passed thence into Prance, and came back to Spain after the Reconquest. On consideration it appears, in the first place, that this contention will DC affected, in a way, by the larger question, AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Orient oder Rom now undecided, of Orient oder Rom, and its later development, Byzance ou Orient, and in so far may be left until these are nearer solution. In a way, of course, there is none, for every beginning has its antecedents. The argument of Professor Strzygowsky is allur- ing, but English travellers have pointed out that for the chronology of the churches of Syria and Asia Minor, while the sequence is plain the absolute dates are wanting, and if they are not of the fifth and sixth century, as once so confidently asserted, the argument of priority falls to the ground. The same is true of a good deal of Persian building: and if Justinian sent architects to Ctesi- phon, he probably sent others direct to Betica and Carthagena, where he was set- tling what once had been an army. Com- mendatore Rivoira has shown with a proof beyond challenge the early Roman use of forms which, the Romans not fancying them, were used indeed rarely. Anything however that the Romans might know, the Spaniards could and would and usually did know, and here the law of parsimony affects the thesis of M. Dieulafoy. To HISPANIC NOTES THE PI LGRI MA GE turn the pages of Rivoira's great work on the origins of Lombard architecture, is to encounter one by one, most of the typical plans enumerated by M. Dieulafoy in the opening pages of Art in Spain as oriental, and most of the structural devices as well. In the second place, he offers no direct means by which architectural methods and forms could be conveyed from Persia into Spain. If they came by Europe, the Romans must have brought them: this he dismisses. If they came by Africa, where are the (tapes of the long journey? The wonderful little churches that French archi- tects and officers have unearthed along that shore belong to Roman and Byzantine imperial building. The Moors are gener- ally believed to have developed their marvellous civilization on Spanish soil, as the Saracens on Sicilian and the Arabs on Mesopotamian : it flourished after an interval long enough, and it relied upon such charac- teristics and essential elements as the horse-shoe arch and the philosophy of Aristotle, which it found already in Spain. In this Arab question it is possible to com- The route of church- builders AND MONOGRAPHS WA Y OF S. JA MES Arab trails Loans to France mand expert testimony. Says Ibn-Khal- doun the historian, "When a state is composed of Bedawi [Arabs] it needs men of another land for building." M. Gayet, who supplies this, z goes on to say that the Arabs depended on the men they con- quered, architect and day labourer alike, for their edifices: that alike in Persia, Egypt, and Spain, their art is moulded about a pre-existing formula, and betrays the in- clination of a race which, though it may touch at points the Arab civilization, yet preserves its individuality and haughtily affirms it. So much for the intrinsic likelihood of their serving as carriers from Persia. Thirdly, there is small evidence of French borrowing from Spain before the year 1000. Sr. Lamperez once began to make a list of such cases: the first number2 was the little church of Germigny-des-Pres, due to Theo- dulf the Spanish bishop of Orleans: the second number has not yet been published. The domed architecture of Perigord and Quercy is more wisely referred, when dates are scrutinized, to the repeated experi- H I S PANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ments of French builders, helped by the presence of a Venetian colony at Limoges. 3 The architecture of Roussillon is not bor- rowed from Spain, it is simply Spanish, for in the Middle Age Roussillon was a part, most of the time, of the King of Aragon's domain. Isolated instances of imitation in France there may well have been, but rather in decoration than in structure, and most apparent in borrowing the cusped and trefoiled openings for arcades, windows and doors; but no general movement such as M. Dieulafoy postulates. The great wave which he calls a back- wash, the influx of French architecture into Spain that began in the eleventh century and lasted till the fourteenth, few nowadays will try to deny or even mitigate. French knights came, and French monks, and French master-masons, carvers and builders both. The main business of this book is with them. What is not so much denied, by serious scholars and the world at large, as ignored, unknown, is the importance of that which it supplanted, the beauty, in The back- wash AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Mozarabic churches truth the existence, of an art noble and autochthonous. In .Asturias and Leon, in Galicia, in those southerly parts of the ancient county of Castile which are now the provinces of Soria, Palencia and Valla- dolid in Catalonia and Aragon, stand lonely and forgotten churches, some cruciform, some basilican in type, marked nearly all with the horse-shoe arch; some built early in the Reconquest, some due to a long persistence of the type in places remote or unpeopled: — they are the great might- have-been of Spain. They owe much to Constantinople and more to Rome: some- thing to the Visigoths, and wherever was the earlier home of them; little or nothing to France, that is to say, to Franks. With these pre-Romanesque churches I hope in some measure to reckon in the book that shall follow this, but not here: they are not found along the Pilgrim Way. The extent of Spanish relations with the lands that lie east of the Mediterranean, is matter of history. In the first three cen- turies, religions were fetched thence, the worship of Serapis, of Mithras and, accord- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ing to Spaniards, of Jesus; then heresies, then precious relics, and memories of the Holy Land; then travellers' tales, and the exploits of Crusaders and the Great Con- quests of Over-Seas. The question is not whether this Oriental influence, so hotly asserted, was possible, but whether it was actual. Spiritually, in religious worship and belief, it is apparent, though even there Rome may nave been the carrier. There is a debt to Egypt, and the worship of Isis and Serapis was deeply rooted in Spain. It has left traces perhaps on Span- ish worship even to this day. Just what the Coptic contributed to the formation of Carolingian and Romanesque art, we are not yet prepared to say, .but certainly Coptic Christianity influenced Spanish hagiography. I shall have to show later how great perhaps was the debt to Syria, how legends were carried by bishop and merchant like seeds by birds. Sr. Lam- perez will have it that he has found the trail of a Syrian architect who came on the Pilgrimage in the twelfth century, at Irache, andatZamora. I believe him. Yetonexam- The Great Conquests of Over- Seas Isis and the Coptic Church AND MONOGRAPHS IO WAY OF S. JAMES The Thou- sand and One Churches Campani- lismo ining the plans and photographs and state- ments of fact — I expressly exclude the deductions drawn thence — of The Thou- sand and One Churches,4 for instance, of Professor Butler's Mission to Northern Syria, of Crowfoot's journey and de Vogue's, the correspondences that appear with what I know in Spain are so few, that it seems safer to classify them as like effects of a common cause. Two further limitations must be put to the last sentence : one, that Templars' building and that of the Orders of the Hospital and the Holy Sepulchre, in Spain, are excepted, for there is Syrian or other Asian influence there, but the build- ings form a class apart, as will appear in the course of the book. The other is that there will be no consideration of any styles, in Asia Minor or Asturias, Mesopotamia or Galicia, Syria or Andalusia, of which all the examples have completely disappeared. Into the fault of not getting, intellec- tually, the sound of your town belfry out of your ears, have fallen some very distinguished Frenchmen who habitually speak on Spanish matters as having au- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE ii thority. When M. Bertaux5 too lightly attributes matter very various, all to the school of Toulouse; when M. Enlart rashly insists that Peter Peterson, the architect of Toledo (Petrus Petri, reads his epitaph), instead of Pedro Perez, is Pierre the son of Pierre, and wants to make one of these Peter of Corbie, 6 then they bring reproach upon their nation. There is only one method to form a judgement of this sort, the exactest and most disinterested com- parison of objects. When Street wrote that Leon Cathedral was built from French designs, at some time after the year 1230, he cited in evidence the mouldings at Rheims, Amiens, and Laon: the passage is quoted elsewhere. Nothing less would serve him. M. Bertaux has wide reading in contemporary Spanish ecclesiology and a facile and happy instinct which oftener guesses a truth than proves it. M. Enlart has a recondite experience of early Gothic: on the churches of Italy, of Cyprus, of Scandinavia, he can speak from acquaint- ance, but he has not pushed so far as might be, into Spain, else had he never fobbed off MM. Ber- taux and Enlart Vcl. II, P. 250 AND MONOGRAPHS 12 WA Y OF S.JAMES Spain closed in 1559 Ripoll with only three apses, instead of seven. There is nothing for it but to shrug the shoulders when a Spanish Canon and his English admirers go astray; taking up, for instance, the dispute as to priority between the churches of Santiago and S. Sernin, if one of them asserts that there were, in that style, early instances a-plenty in Spain, but unhappily all have perished except those posterior to Santiago; or if another wrests the pilgrim's note that S. Martin of Tours had ambulatory and chapels "like Santiago," into an authentic statement that it was copied after Santiago. This is not scholarly, not critical. An elder generation of Spanish ecclesiologists was betrayed at times into an assumption that Spain, like the Great Council at Venice, was at a certain date closed to out- side influence, just as in the year 1559 it was closed to foreign learning: but the men of weight and the men of genius in Spain today, are free from taint of error. If the names of two French scholars only, muy respetables, are singled out, it is HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE precisely because they are so rightly and so heartily respected. There are others. The rest — for instance, M. Henri Stein,7 — when they snatch everything in Europe, 8 are left with another shrug. 9 But these are not in like case. Of their judgment and experi- ence we should not anticipate the crowning argument that because the tenth cen- tury, or the twelfth, in France came to no such flower, therefore it could not in Spain. Both these, if they knew better the land of Spain, would doubtless abate their claim for France, as the present writer has had in due course to do. When one has learned really to know, league after league, a single region, the Tierra de Santiago and there- abouts, for instance, or the Burgalese, or northern Catalonia, or southern Navarre; or when one has studied the development through the centuries of a great chant ier, that of Leon or that of Compostella, one comes at last to realize that the stuff, whencesoever it comes, is soon altered and made over. Sometimes one sees the French leavening a vast lump; sometimes the metal is French but Spanish the image and superscription. The image and super- scription AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES When Avila was repeopled That stands to reason. It is not much better, with M. Bertaux, to dismiss every- thing of a certain sort as school of Toulouse, than with Richard Ford to talk about Norman architecture in Segovia, because we are used to calling it Norman in Eng- land. In spite of all their likeness, the English churches are not like those of Normandy, though the conditions made a relation far closer there, of incessant passage and interchange, than ever existed between Spain and France. Building French by origin may be Spanish in detail; again, the converse appears. A great chantier at its very inception must have had to call in local workmen. Raymond of Burgundy, for the repeopling of Avila, in 1090, fetched, along with ninety French knights, twenty-two masters of pie- dras taller and twelve of "jometria," for the walls: these had to build, besides the walls, the cathedral and the churches; yet in 1109 the work on S. Vicente was re- ported as well along. The masters had trained their men, and this case is probably typical. From time to time new blood HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRI MAGE was wanted: sometimes after deliberation the chapter would write away for an archi- tect, as that of Astorga sent, fearing it was too late, to enquire at Burgos for Master Francis of Cologne. Sometimes one came along of himself, like that William the Englishman who is said to have built the great church of Sahagun. So Villard de Honnecourt went to Hungary; so he passed by Chartres and Lausanne and sketched there. Workmen from the Royal Domain formed the style at Leon; from Burgundy, that at Avila. Workmen from Chartres, passing, left their handiwork on door- jambs at Sanguesa; from Rocamadour, left a plan like Souillac at Estella. The stone- worker's is a wandering craft. That R. Lombardo who signed a contract in the Seo de Urgell, to build the church with four other Lombardos, had crossed, belike, both Alps and Pyrenees with a sack of tools on his shoulder, some sort of sketch book in his wallet. Bishop Alonso of Carthagena, riding home from the Council of Bale, broke the journey, it is conjectured, at Cologne, and there picked up an honest A wander- ing craft AND MONOGRAPHS 16 WAY OF S. JAMES Master William and Master Claus workman, Hans by name, with as little ceremony as he would have used to hire a running-footman, or buy a hawk or a boar- hound. Was not Master William called "of Sens," master of Canterbury Cathedral? Did not one same Master William and one same Master Nicholas leave their signatures at Verona and at Modena, and their sign at Cremona and Ferrara? Up and down the coast of Catalonia and even into the isles of the sea travelled Jaime Fabre: all over the kingdom of the Castiles you may track the work of John of Badajoz. When the princely uncles of the King of France were still in their splendid ascendency, Claus Sluter, working for the Duke of Burgundy, wrote home to Holland for his nephew to come down and join him; Andre Beauneveu, working for the Duke of Berry, was visited twice at least by work- men of Burgundy, bent on learning. In October or November, 1373, Claus Sluter and Jean de Beaumetz were sent to him at the Chateau of Mehun-sur-Yevre, "pour visiter certains ouvraiges de peintures, d'ymaiges, et d' entailleures et autres que HISPANIC NOTE S THE PILGRIMAGE Monseigneur de Berry faisit faire audit Meun."10 The other party consisted of masters in works of carpentry and of masonry, of Philippe le Hardi in Flanders, all expenses paid. A few more examples may serve: Eudes de Montereau went to Palestine with S. Louis, and worked much, and learned more. Jean Langlois of Troyes went on the pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 1267, not probably alone, and it has been pointed out that the cathedral of Famagusta, in the island of Cyprus, bears a strong likeness to the characteristic style of Troyes. For Charles of Anjou in Naples, worked at least one builder from the Isle of France, between 1269 and 1284, — Pierre d'Angi- court. A hundred years later, in 1377, Guillaume Colombier of Avignon was oc- cupied at Anagni — that removal, however, left him still in Papal territory. Matthew of Arras appears at Avignon in 1342 and the Emperor Charles IV takes him thence to Prague to build the cathedral there. Henry Arler of Boulogne-sur-Mer is said to have drawn the plans for that of Ulm — " I've been to Palestine" AND MONOGRAPHS i8 WAY OF S.JAMES Villard de Honne- court The Sepul- chre of a Saracen but if so, something happened in the course of executing them. "J'ai este en mult de tiere, si cum ws pores trover en cest livre," writes Villard de Honnecourt, x I and again, beside the drawing of a window in Rheims, with a sudden recollection of bitter home-sickness : " I was in Hungary when I drew that, there- fore I love it more." The architect in other days, indeed, like the portrait painter, trusted more to his mind and less in his material: Villard in Hungary drew out from memory the pattern of the lovely rose and lancets at Rheims. Still, wffen he encountered the antique he sketched from it on the spot, here a votive statue, in the nude or all but, there a Gallo-Roman sepulchral monu- ment. " De tel maniere, " he notes, later, quaintly, "fu li sepoulcre d'un Sarrizin quejo m une fois." The chance to study a living lion, out in Hungary, was seized as a piece of great luck; almost as well as Mokkei with the tiger, he caught the pose of the huge doggish creature in the moment before his spring. The design of a clock, HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE the pattern of an inlaid pavement, the tracery of a rose or a labyrinth, he sets down as he encounters them; a device to make the lectern-eagle turn and bow at the Gospel, another to keep the priest's hands warm enough to celebrate the Mass on bitter mornings in northern winters. He preserves these as he thinks them out: afterwards, turning over the leaves with a friend, or in his old age, he makes his com- ments and adds his reminiscences. An admirable plan was that which he and Peter of Corbie worked out for vaulting the double ambulatory. So when such men met, on the tramp, travelling for commissions or on pilgrimage, be sure the sketch-book came out, yielding much, acquiring more, as they sat each with other, through the long hours of dark, inter se disputando. All along the Pilgrim Way you may see where they have been. Desirous merely of finding out, at first, what evidence exists for these French claims and these Spanish disclaimers, I have followed step by step the route laid down by Aymery AND MONOGRAPHS Peter of Corbie 2O WAY OF S.JAMES Sres. Alta- mira, Mo- reno and Lamp6rez Picaud in the twelfth century, for the pilgrims going to S. James. Precisely there, on the main-travelled road, if any- where, the proofs would lie. What this book records was learned from looking, and from books of history. Also at times are quoted the conclusions of Sr. G6mez Moreno, sometime of Granada, of D. Ra- fael Altamira who is an historian, of D. Vicente Lamperez who is a working archi- tect, versed in the learning of his craft, for these three are men of approved sobriety, reasonable in their postulates, liberal in their admissions, well established in their inferences, but even here, as in the case of personal judgements, in the propounding is distinguished whatever is matter of opinion. I have rung the changes on belike and per- adventure, it seems, and it well may be, till the reader doubtless is heartily sick of them all. I owe the scruple to the original intent, which was simply, I repeat, to disengage and present evidence. Everything believed at the outset was abandoned long ago; and, out of examination and comparison and perpetual returns to view old matter under HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE a new light, has been built up a theory, not new, but not before, perhaps, just so applied, of the importance of the chantier. Half by accident, at the outset, was Aymery Picaud taken for guide. In an earlier piece of work, editing Street's great book on Gothic Architecture in Spain, the main lines of French penetration into Spain were marked and approved. Before the breaking out of the War I had hoped to follow those ancient roads across France, and pause with the pilgrims at Vezelay and S. Gilles, at Limoges and Saintes and Toulouse; to see Saumur, and Parthenay- le-Vieux, the home of Aymery, and Blaye, where Roland lies buried and beside him Oliver, and Oliver's sister who died of sorrow, " Aude an vis cler." I had hoped from among winding riverside poplars, or on the huge domes of the volcanic land, or by S. Gilles, beside the great waters of the glimmering meres, to look up on August nights and see how ran the starry track, straight south-westward to Com- postella. Personal disappointment, the imperfection of a little piece of work, is 21 Aymery Picaud V AND MONOGRAPHS 22 WAY OF S. JAMES La douce France The Road not so much as to be uttered where the sacred name of France is invoked today. Acquaintance from of old with much that was best in France, la douce France, made the first plan not impossible though modi- fied perforce: but the close study of the Camino frances has been commenced and ended inside the Spanish frontier. The intention, as the reader will see, has grown long since from a mere pedantic exercise in architecture, to a very pilgrim- age, to following ardently along the ancient way where all the centuries have gone. The kings of Spain had built a highway to assist pilgrims in the twelfth century: but the road was there already. The Romans had built a military road as sign and condi- tion of their domination: but the road was there already. Palaeolithic man had moved along it, and the stations of a living devotion today, he had frequented; there he made his magic, and felt vague awe before the abyss of an antiquity unfathomed. Along that way the winds impel, the waters guide, earth draws the feet. The very sky allures and insists. "Comma se de- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE mostrdu d Calrros as estrelas enno ceo, commences the Gallegan version of Turpin the Archbishop, "how the stars in the sky revealed themselves to Charlemagne. " "It signifies that you shall go into Galicia at the head of a great host, and after you all peoples shall come in pilgrimage, even to the end of time, " thus the vision spoke to the Emperor: and the vision said to Bernar- dette: "A chapel shall be built here; I mean that people shall come in processions to it, ... so that all peoples shall come in processions from all places in the world, " multitudes and multitudes, forever. The known facts of geography, though edifying, cannot wholly explain this matter of the elder sanctuaries, nor tell why, though religions come and go, men set their feet eternally toward a certain hilltop, there to lift up their hearts. Sursum corda I the attitude is old as humanity, the emotion is strong as death. At S. Michel du PeYil the Druids held their assemblies in the place of those they had supplanted. At S. Michele in Gargano the bull of Mithras still lurks in the cave, wounded Angclorum agmine sepe visitatur AND MONO GRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Under- ground waters for the timeless sacrifice. An awe broods even over the Protestant's and the Puri- tan's line, when he comes to "the great vision of the Guarded Mount." In the lonely shrine of the Madonna del Parto, Piero della Francesca paused to paint a strange figure, older than the Maiden, older than the Romans' homely gods of hearth and garth, for Piero, mountain- born, could hear the noises that travel along the earth and over frozen seas. That sound of underground waters, which we call folk-lore, murmurs through all his inscrutable art; and his figure is worshipped there as from of old, the earth goddess invoked by women about to bring forth. Mystics can tell how journeys to such shrines are made: The way is opened before you, and closed behind you. Simple, that: believe it or not, it happens. So with Compostella: to those grey granite hills, ringed round with higher, the blind longings are drawn, the restless feet are guided. It is not a place to live, Iriste, grey, quite dead; nor even a place to love, not beautiful, not sympathetic; but when HISPANIC N OTE S THE PILGRIMAGE 25 you are away, it draws you. In the spring, when frost is out of the ground, and ships are sailing, week by week, you cannot get it out of your head: as you smell the brown fresh-turned clods, it works in your blood. There, as I went, so went the Middle Age. The great Pilgrimage was some- Roland's thing hugeous, incredible. On the current horn of it was borne this noble French archi- tecture, already spoken of; along the stream of it grew up a body of noble French epic; in the winding gorge of Roncevaux, still echoes the Chanson de Roland. « • AND MONOGRAPHS I 26 WAY OF S.JAMES II TURPIN'S CHRONICLE Es livres qui parolent des roys de France trovons escript que par la proiere Monseigneur Saint Jacques dona Nostre Sires cest don a Charlemaine c'on parleroit de lui tant com le siecle durtroit. CHARLEMAGNE was old, he had worn out his life fighting all over the earth ; he • was weary and would rest, when one night he saw a starry road that, beginning at the Frisian sea, crossed France and Gascony, Navarre and Spain, to the world's end. It ran on across the sky to Galicia, where the body of S. James at that time lay unrecognized. Many a night he saw the marvel, and understood it not. At last a fair lord appeared to him, and when the I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 27 Emperor asked, "Lord, who art thou?" he answered, "I am James the Apostle, Christ's servant, Zebedee's son, John Evangelist's brother, elect by God's grace to preach His law, whom Herod slew : look you, my body is in Galicia but no man knoweth where, and the Saracens oppress the land. Therefore God sends you to retake the road that leads to my tomb and the land wherein I rest. The starry way that you saw in the sky signifies that you shall go into Galicia at the head of a great host, and after you all peoples shall come in pilgrimage, even till the end of time. Go then; I will be your helper: and as guerdon of your travails I will get you from God a crown in heaven, and your name shall abide in the memory of man until the Day of Judgement." In saecula saeculorum, Amen — the promise rolls like thunder among the reverberating centuries. So Charlemagne makes three expeditions into Spain. In the first he pushes as far as Compostella and beyond, riding into the sea and sticking there his lance in sign of his dominion even to the ends of the AND MONOGRAPHS A road to a grave 28 WAY OF S.JAMES Compos- tella, Rome, and Ephesus earth. In the great church he establishes a Bishop and Canons under the rule of S. Isidore, bestows those bells that Almanzor was to carry away. In the course of the second foray he builds a church and founds an abbey hard by Cea bank, where Sahagun is situate. In the third invasion he holds a Council at Compostella and confers such privileges as Rome could never enforce for herself — every house in Spain must pay four pence a year, every plough-land recovered, a measure of wheat and a measure of wine; bishops must come thither for investiture and kings for coro- nation. Compostella he makes the metro- politan see of Spain, co-equal with Rome the seat of Peter, and Ephesus the burial- place of John. On the way home he takes Saragossa and in the mountains his rear- guard is beset by Saracens. Roland and his twenty thousand good knights are slain, and buried by the Emperor at Blaye and Belin, Bordeaux and Les Alyscamps. He calls a Council at S. Denis to dower that abbey like S. James's and at Aix he paints the history of the Spanish wars HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 29 upon his palace walls. Finally, when he is dead, and the deeds of all his life lie in the balance, and that is insecure, a Gallegan without a head throws in the stones of all the churches that he built, and thus re- deems the promise of his early apparition. This ends the Chronicle of Turpin. The same crisis, it will be remembered, occurred in the case of the good King Da/gobert and also in that of the German Emperor Henry who lies now sainted in Bamberg, thanks to prompt action by S. Michael. The latest contribution to letters of M. Be'dier has been to show how all this is related by action and reaction to the great pilgrimage, and how the incidents which have sprung up along its route contribute to its success. He goes so far as to say that the whole Book of S. James, the Codex called of Pope Calixt, of which this of Tur- pin is a part, was compiled, probably by a French monk, in the middle of the twelfth century, and was intended pre- cisely as an instrument of propaganda, in other words, an advertising scheme for the pilgrimage. As the pseudo-Calixtus The Epical Legends AND MONOGRAPHS 30 WAY OF S. JAMES asked of clerks notes on the saints of their churches, so the pseudo-Turpin asked of professional jongleurs notes on the per- The first Knights of sons in their romances. Charlemagne Santiago and his peers are Pilgrims of S. James, they are the first Knights of Santiago. The idea gives occasion to M. Be"dier's ripe and poetic genius for une belle page that may be detached without much more damage than a flowering hawthorn bough: L'idee est belle de grouper dans les Landes de Bordeaux les heros de toutes les gestes, appelfes des quatre coins de 1'horizon poetique, de les acheminer tous, epris d'un meme de"sir, vers le torn- beau de Galice, et de les ramener par Roncevaux, afin que 1'apotre, a cette derniere etape de leur pelerinage, leur donne tous a la fois leur recompense, la • • . c com- joie d'etre martyrs. L'idee est belle de e(on moyto ce crepuscule des heros, qui renaissent de chorar ensemble a la lumiere eternelle. L'idee sobre el est belle de distribuer leurs depouilles, leurs reliques, sur les routes de Com- postelle, pour qu'ils en soient les gardiens, pour qu'ils protegent, eux les pelerins triomphants, ceux de 1'Eglise souffrante: I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 3i ils sont leurs modules sur ces routes, leurs patrons, leurs intercesseurs. Id6e recente, dit-on. Sans doute, puisque la vieille Chanson de Roland, celle du manuscript d'Oxford, 1'ignore. Mais idee qui precede pourtant de la vieille Chanson de Roland. Charlemagne et ses pairs chevaliers de S. Jacques, c'est 1'invention nouvelle; mais deja, dans la vieille chanson, ils 6taient les chevaliers de Dieu. Ils meurent & Roncevaux au enton retour du p^lerinage de Galice, c'est Rulan 1'invention nouvelle; mais la donn6 est martere de Jhesu- ancienne, h6ritee, qu'ils meurent a Crislo. . . Roncevaux, au retour d'une croisade, et deja la vieille Chanson de Roland est, a de certains 6gards, une Passion de martyrs. . . . * Certain chansons de geste show an exact knowledge of the long way and the stopping L'Entrfe places on it. Even in the Entree d'Espagne, * d'Espagne though the Paduan poet who composed it in the fourteenth century depended but little on the pseudo-Turpin, the Pilgrimage is the necessary antecedent, and the back- ground, of the action. Composed in honour of Charlemagne, it is perpetually AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Out- landers' geography preoccupied with S. James. The business of the warriors is not so much to deliver the Apostle from the Saracens in occupa- tion, as to keep the road open. Of the Way the Paduan has only hearsay knowl- edge— he knows of Najera, and the bridge at Najera, and sets his great battle there, but we must suppose he brings in his army not by the pass of Roncevaux but by the sea-shore route, otherwise they could never have got to Najera before Pampeluna. He knows of Estella, about which lies much of the action, Astorga, and Carrion: on the other hand, he puts Belin close to Pam- peluna, and if Orthez is to be identified with Nobles, then he makes a like mistake there again. Not knowing the mountain passes, he takes a safe course and makes the entry vaguely by Port d'Espagne.3 Burgos is merely Bors d'Espagne, a place from which came one of four kings, the others ruling in Logrono, Estella, and Sant Mart. Now Santas Martas is a tiny sanctuary on the Camino frances that no one would ever remember unless he happened to sleep there. 4 Nothing could be more significant HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 33 than this information, concrete and in- exact, about the places familiar to the pilgrims. On the other hand, the Prise de Pam- pdune s is as exact in its itinerary as Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. Charlemagne takes a town, baptizes the people, and moves on to another; takes it, baptizes it, and treks. The man who first planned this poem, not necessarily Nicholas of Verona, for some of the incidents of it lie in the dim back- ward and abysm behind the Chanson de Roland, — either had made himself the journey from Pampeluna to Compostella, or had taken notes from the talk of a pilgrim who had made it, or else, conceiv- ably, he had access to a better and fuller Guide than Aymery Picaud's,6 and his public knew as much as he. This is in the situation of The Road in Tuscany, of. A Note-Book in Northern Spain: half the interest lies in the presentation on the one hand, recognition on the other, of matter familiar to both and by both felt romantic- ally. While Saragossa, Cordova, and To- ledo are vaguely envisaged, the westering La Prise de Pamftclune AND MONOGRAPHS 3* WAY OF S.JAMES road runs straight and plain, by Pampe- luna, Estella, and Logrono. Sus le cemin seint Jaques somes sens gaberise, Vees la Charion, — 7 and after Carrion we see Sahagun, Masele, which will be Mansilla de las Mulas, Leon, and Astorga, where was once, as still at Compostella there is, a Porta Francigena. Ver la porte che veit ver Frange e ver Bertagne8 Roland spurs, and the episode ends with a movement westward A la porte che veit ver Seint Jaques tutour.9 Another long and very readable poem, composed in the thirteenth century, Anseis de Carthage Anseis of Carthage,10 draws not only from the pseudo-Turpin but also from the legendary store of Spain. Spanish and French critics are agreed that Anseis, the old Councillor Ysore" and his daughter I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 35 Lentierra, owe their being to Roderick, Count Julian, and the unhappy lady called la Cava. The morale of it is different; the young king is shown as pretty nearly unable to help himself in the false position that the lady has contrived, the father as a renegade hell-ripe, and the countess, remanded to a convent, gets off too easily with a knightly young son to intercede for her and to succeed her. The Saracen princess Gan- deira, whom Anseis intended all along to marry, comes out as the conventional good wife of chivalry. It is not really necessary to suppose much more borrowing from Count Julian than from Paris of Troy: where likeness exists, the story is common enough in history, in romantic poetry, and in life. But the geography is rich and re- sponsible. Taking place up and down the Way, all over the Way, the action is a little, in places, like a battle in Shakespeare, and in others, like the page which good Baedeker consecrates to an all-day journey. Anseis, beset by Saracens, falls back from somewhere beyond Astorga making one desperate stand after another, as far as AND MONOGRAPHS 36 WAY OF S. JAMES Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz, and thence sends messengers along the whole route up through France to the court of Charlemagne: the emperor marches, stage by stage, reconquers Spain, and finally goes home and gives thanks: the reader also, having now been over the road three times. If Pierrot du Ries wrote the poem, not merely copied it, then Astorga in Pierrot had himself once skirted wood, the plain descended painfully into a valley, forded the stream at the bottom, breasted the hill beyond the Orbigo and had the sudden vision of Astorga in the plain adobe- walled, crested with huge towers where it stands yet like the ivory elephant on a chess- board and — Droit ver Luiserne tout I antiu cemin, ' * he too had gone with Franchois. This same city of Luiserne, with its story out of the Arabian Nights, had long in- trigued scholars, and to M. Bedier belongs the praise for having found it, at last, simply by following the path. Here too, the main concern of everyone in the poem is: . I HISPANIC NOTES — — ^— ^— THE PILGRIMAGE 37 Le cemin ke tu as Dieu promis Del bon apostle. This art, moreover, has its roots in the soil. First was the station, then the story, as M. Bedier points out. Some of The In- numerable the stations may be older than he reckons: Martyrs as night mist lies late in mountain hollows. The memory of innumerable dead broods on certain fields from before the dawn of history. The prehistoric bones in the Rhineland about Cologne were so multi- tudinous as to give the seat, and possibly the occasion, of two legends at least: that of S. Ursula, with her eleven thousand maidens shot to death with arrows by the German barbarians from further north and east; and that of the Theban Legion who, having received corporate baptism and given their pledge to the Wonderful, the Ever- lasting, the Prince of Peace, then sooner than fight the battles of the Empire elected to die where they stood; non-resistant. The dead of Roncevaux all lie with their fathers far back. At Bordeaux, a great Gallo-Roman necropolis surrounded the AND MONOGRAPHS I The little flames WAY OF S.JAMES shrine and tomb of S. Seurin; at Blaye it would seem S. Remain (ob. 384) found some such an one when he rebuilt the famous temple in a field of sepulchres: at Alyscamps the Romans had buried in the burial place of those they overcame. Where lie the tombs of the dead, where pass the feet of the living, there the little flames of the holy story burn brightly, and the ancestral ghosts are worshipped as martyrs and intercessors. S. Roland and S. Charlemagne were not fantastic titles to the Middle Age. ' 2 In the cathedral of Chartres they enjoy a window of their own, like S. Stephen and S. Eustace and S. Magdalen. With Chartres, in truth, though the way is long, Compostella has more than one curious connexion. The famous Codex named of Pope Calixt, which contains the Chronicle of Turpin and the Itinerary of Aymery, contains also a sort of liturgical mystery play, dealing with the Mass, that was written by Fulbert of Chartres. A clerk of Santiago who knew the great Bishop, or one visiting, may have brought it, or a HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 39 pious pilgrim, long after, made of it a sweet offering, or the chapter came by it through some ecclesiastical intermediary: at any rate, there you handle the MS. and music of Bishop Fulbert's composition, as the owner laid it up in the Codex among other precious things. There were plenty of possible intermediaries, for instance that Bernard of Angers who wrote the Book of the Miracles of S. Faith and dedicated it to Fulbert while he was yet alive: ' 3 now the sanctuary of S. Faith in Rouergue was specially recommended to pilgrims on the Way. The Codex was compiled, as most students agree, before 1150; at the close of that same century or very shortly thereafter a workman from the chantier at Chartres, passing on the Camino frattces, stopped at Sanguesa, and carved six figures on the door- jambs of S. Mary's Church, three of them queens, poor relations of the great figures in La Beauce. They stand there yet in San- guesa. In the thirteenth century the glass- painters of Chartres portrayed a window of the eastern ambulatory with the his- tory of SS. Charlemagne and Roland, after The Miracles from Conques Three Queens from Chartres AND MONOGRAPHS 40 WAY O F S.JAMES the versions ot Beauvais. Turpin and Vincent of and S. Ferdinand That window is flanked, there in the eastern aisle, by the legend of S. Vincent of Saragossa on one hand, and on the other, by that of S. James, Spaniards both, in a little Spanish reunidn: and in a clere- story window above still rides, as donor, in the glowing rose, S. Ferdinand. . I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 4i III THE BOOK OF S. JAMES Nay more — where is the third? — Calixt? — Villon. THE codex called of Pope Calixtus has Calixtus II nothing of him but the name. Seeing that he was in the world Count Guy of Burgundy, born brother to Count Ray- mond, Queen Urraca's husband, and there- after Archbishop of Vienne, he made a plausible par rain for the MS. which was written under the influence of the great Archbishop his friend, Diego Gelmfrez, if not in his day. It consists of five books, described as follows by a monk of Ripoll, Arnaut del Monte,1 who saw it in 1173: I. De scriptts sanctorum patrum, Augustini, videlicet, Ambrosii, Hieron- ymi, Leonis, Maximi et Bede . . . AND MONOGRAPHS I 42 WAY OF S.JAMES (aliaque) scripta aliorum quorundam sanctorum, in festivitatibus predicti apostoli et ad laudem illius per totum annum legenda, cum responsoriis, anti- phonis, prefationibus, et orationibus ad idem pertinentibus quam plurimis. II. Apostoli miracula. III. Translatio apostoli ab Hierosoly- mis ad Hyspanias. IV. Qualiter Karolus Magnus do- muerit et subjugaverit jugo Christi Hyspanias. V. Varia. In the first Book or part occurs the Mass with a Parse or dramatic and musical Carmina Contpos- liturgy credited usually to Fulbert, but tellana retouched perhaps a little at Compostella. Among the Hymns and Tropes many are attributed to great names, Fulbert of Chartres, the Patriarch William of Jerusa- lem, S. Fortunatus; or others lesser but still historical, Bishop Hatto of Troyes, Joscelin of Vierzy Bishop of Soissons, Alberic of Rheims, Master Airard of Ve*zelay. Others are offered as the com- position of Magister Johannis Legalis, of • r HISPANIC'NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Pope Leo and Master Panicha, of Albert of Paris, in whom one would fain see a hum- bler precursor of Albertus Magnus; and one as a Prayer of Master G., whom Fr. Dreves," probably with reason, would identify with Master Gautier of Castel Renaud, elsewhere presented as composing music — Magister Gauterius de Castello Rainardi. A good many in the collection may be of this kind, which is indeed the same kind as Hymns Ancient and Modern; a little one of Master Anselm's, two or three named of Pope Calixt, and, also charged to the last-named, a quaint set of macaronic verses in Greek, Latin, and Hebrew. Of Calixtus it must be admitted that there is a very ancient tradition at Santiago that he came thither. 3 Not here, but after the Guide, along with some of those already enumerated, occur the poems of Aymery Picaud, the two hymns and a third in unrhymed quantitative verse, in Sapphics of a sort, which the original editor annotates with touching pride. But the best in the collection is the superb drama of the Mass, intended 43 iDt d6nde eres Ptregrinof The Drama of the Mass AND MONOGRAPHS 44 WAY OF S.JAMES The bull- voiced mimes Ensamples for antiphonal choirs, at least two great solo voices, and a chorus that included, along with masses of trained singers, at times the entire congregation of the crowded church. Only to read it, you hear the bellowing of the bull-voiced mimes and the roar of Amen and Eleison: of this com- position more will be said elsewhere in the proper place. The Hymns and Re- sponsions in prose, with musical notation arranged usually for two or three voices, in the Appendix that follows the Itinerary, differ from the rest only in the date of transcription; some are repetitions from the earlier part, one is dated 1190; all are in another hand from the Codex proper. There is no more reason to doubt the good faith of the collector than to believe in the authenticity of these vague and traditional attributions — it is enough that Aymery believed them. The second Book contains a choice of twenty-odd miracles or Ensamples, mostly contemporary:4 about such a collection as you would find at Lourdes. Of these the second belongs to the time of Bishop HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 45 Theodomir and is credited to Bede; the third befell in 1108; the fourth is told on the faith of Master Hubert, the pious canon of the church of S. Mary Magda- len of Vezelay; the sixth and seventeenth are credited to S. Anselm, and the eight- eenth befell a Count of S. Gilles "not long since." All the rest, with some of these, belong to the lifetime, and most to the episcopate, of the great Archbishop. Arnold of Ripoll adds two more that he found elsewhere in the Codex, in one of which figures Abbot Alberic of Vezelay (1138-43), a member of the household of Cluny. He copied out parts for those at home, some of which might be read in church and some at dinner, some parts, that is, being doctrine and others pious opinion.3 The third book, which tells the journey of S. James's body, Mgr. Duchesne has examined in the finest critical spirit, be- side which seem dull and doubtful the pa- tient labours of Fr. Fidel Fita to reconcile nonsense and make forgery plausible. The fourth is the Chronicle of Turpin, Miraclesof S. James AND MONOGRAPHS 46 W A Y O F S.JAMES A Spici- legium already summarized; the fifth, the Pil- grim's Guide of Aymery Picaud, liegeman of Vezelay and clerk in orders — to which we shall come shortly. 6 The core of the MS., then, is a sort of offertory, compiled, in the better parts, of what the pilgrims brought, though for- geries are arranged behind and before and on either hand, to make all secure. It was intended to increase devotion and promote the pilgrimage.7 It succeeded; pilgrims waited their turn to make extracts and copies. But it is something more, a Spici- legium, a true and faithful gathering of the legends told along the way. The whole Book of S. James is seen to be, in this light, a book and not a miscellany. It gathers up the tales along the road- side, sometimes saintly legends, sometimes epical. It begins with the history of the Apostle, continues with Charlemagne, and ends with a choice of contemporary miracles. The legend of S. James is told, in its essentials, about as follows — in the Codex, in the Golden Legend, and in the Recuerdos HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 47 de un mage that Fr. Fidel Fita made in the year of grace 1880: James the apostle, son of Zebedee, Tltf preached after the ascension of our Lord I ne Golden in the Jewry and Samaria, and after, he Legend was sent into Spain for to sow there the word of Jesu Christ. But when he was there he profited but little, for he had converted unto Christ's law but nine disciples, of whom he left two there, for to preach the word of God, and took the other seven with him and returned again into Judea. When the blessed S. James was be- headed, his disciples took the body away by night for fear of the Jews, and brought it into a ship, and committed unto the will of our Lord the sepulture of it, and went withal into the ship without sail or rudder. And by the conduct of the angel of our Lord they arrived in Galicia in the realm of Lupa. There was in Spain a queen that had to name, and also by deserving of her life, Lupa, which is as much to say in English as a she- wolf. And then the disciples of S. James took out his body and laid it upon AND MONOGRAPHS I 48 WAY OF S.JAMES Lupa, by interpreta- tion a she- wolf a great stone. And anon the stone re- ceived the body into it as it had been soft wax, and made to the body a stone as it were a sepulchre. Then the disciples went to Lupa the queen, and said to her: Our Lord Jesu Christ hath sent to thee the body of his disciple, so that him that thou wouldest not receive alive thou shalt receive dead, and then they recited to her the miracle by order; how they were come without any governaile of the ship and required of her place convenable for his holy sepulture. And when the queen heard this, she sent them unto a right cruel man, by treachery and by guile, as Master Beleth saith, and some say it was to the king of Spain, for to have his consent of this matter, and he took them and put them in prison. And when he was at dinner the angel of our Lord opened the prison and let them escape away all free. And when he knew it, he hastily sent knights after, for to take them, and as these knights passed to go over a bridge, the bridge brake and over- threw, and they fell in the water and were drowned. And when he heard that he repented him and doubted for HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 49 himself and for his people, and sent after them, praying them for to return, and that he would do like as they would themselves. And then they returned and converted the people of that city unto the faith of God. And when Lupa the queen heard this, she was much sorrowful, and when they came again to her they told to her the agreement of the king. She answered: Take the oxen that I have in yonder mountain, and join ye and yoke them to my cart or chariot, and bring ye then the body of your master, and build ye for him such a place as ye will, and this she said to them in guile and mockage, for she knew well that there were no oxen but wild bulls, and supposed that they should never join them to her chariot, and if they were so joined and yoked to the chariot, they would run hither and thither, and should break the chariot, and throw down the body and slay them. But there is no wisdom against God. And then they, that knew nothing of the evil courage of the queen, went up on the mountain, and found there a dragon casting fire at them, and ran on them. and wild bulls AND MONOGRAPHS 50 WAY OF S. JAMES And they made the sign of the cross and he brake on two pieces. And then they made the sign of the cross upon the bulls, and anon they were meek as lambs. Then they took them and yoked them to the chariot, and took the body of S. James with the stone that they had laid it on, and laid on the chariot, and the wild bulls without governing or driving of anybody drew it forth into the middle of the palace of the queen Lupa. And when she saw this she was abashed and be- lieved and was christened, and delivered to them all that they demanded, and dedicated her palace into a church and endowed it greatly, and after ended her life in good works.8 Some of this seems to come too near to Colchis' strand, and the devout of today From have quietly dropped overboard the dragon. Colchis' strand It must be said in fairness, that the dragon has as good a right there as the bulls: for the twelfth century as for the fifteenth, they would sink or swim together. After this, the disciples set out on the Roman road that runs from Padron to Betanzos,9 and buried S. James in a fair marble I HISPANIC N OTES o .a I THE PILGRIMAGE sepulchre, which they may have found there disused, or which a convert and his family might offer as once Nicodemus did; Moors came, and the memory of 4t was lost even in Galicia. About the beginning of the ninth cen- tury, in 830 or 813, perhaps, a hermit named Pelayo lived among the rocks of a steep hillside; by night he watched the stars, and once he saw one burning strangely low and strangely bright. There is another version, however, by which many little lights were seen hovering and flickering above the spot. The villagers near by saw it as well, the Bishop Theodomir was ap- prized: excavations revealed the tombs of the Apostle and his followers, and Alfonso the Chaste in person beheld and adored. Remain only the episodes when S. James appeared again and showed himself, like Castor, on a huge white horse. At the battle of Clavijo, in the Rioja near Najera, to the cry of " Santiago, Cierra Espana ! " he swept the field clear of the Hagarenes: this was in 845. At Simancas, in 939, with mitre and crozier he was manifested along with S. 53 Area marmorea The littl< lights HISPANIC NOTES 54 WAY OF S.JAMES Millan, the two together, "white .horse- The White men that ride on white horses, the Knights Horsemen of God."1 ' He appeared at Baeza before 1149, find helped in the winning of Estre- madura, at Ciudad Rodrigo and Merida, and elsewhere, and in America, though at In all, 38 times the credit was transferred to others. apparitions Two traits, rich in human nature, belong, if anywhere, here. M. Paul Claudel, a Neo- Catholic man of letters sometime resident in Paris, of the most excessive and unctuous piety, is persuaded that S. James suffered martyrdom in Spain. In brief, though his theme is The Year of God, he does not know the first thing about the Apostle: S. Jacques a la fin de Juillet a peri en Espagne par 1'epee: Entre les deux mois ardents il git, la t£te coupee.11 On the other hand, Father Fita, a very learned Jesuit, believing what he is told, yet saves and reserves his scholar's wit and his Spanish humour. Apropos of the eldest altar of S. James and an inscription on it, he writes: — "The monks believed I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 55 aright, if they thought the disciples of S. James made an altar with these stones over the grave of the Apostle, after the most ancient use of the church: but they believed not well, if they imagined that with the holy body from Jerusalem came along a Celto Hispanic column and tablet!"12 Because some Neo-Catholics love to suffuse with emotion their ignorance; and because even scholarly Jesuits some- times are bound to twist and turn the impossible in the hope of making some- thing credible — which is the task of making ropes of sand — there must be no pause before presenting another sort of priest, of the kind not uncommon in France, who loving their God with heart and mind have thought to serve Him by blowing up old lies and making plain the way of truth. Mgr. Duchesne of the French School in Rome, at Brussels in i8g413 and at Bor- deaux in 1900 squarely encountered this huge mass of legend, in the light of learn- ing, and cleared the ground. He did to his church son's duty and knight's service. His reward is in the Index.1* The Pillar A French priest AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES S. James never in Spain Follows a very brief abstract of his argument,15 omitting points that seem of pure scholarship, — as, for instance, the true history of the arcae marmoricae: S. James's journey to Spain is not men- tioned by Prudentius: no references to it have been found in the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth centuries. Orosius of Braga, Idaeus, Bishop of Aquae Flaviae, S. Martin of Braga, Visigothic ecclesiastical writers, S. Isidore of Seville, etc., all are silent in their authentic writings. So also in Gaul: for instance, Gregory of Tours, with all his knowledge of the sanc- tuaries of Spain, makes no reference; Fortunatus, even, in an epistle to S. Martin of Braga, writes: "It is to S. Martin the Elder that Gaul owes the light of the Gospel, it is to the new Martin that Galicia owes the same benefit. In his person she enjoys the virtue of Peter, the doctrine of Paul, the help of James and John." In the collection of apostolic histories known under the name of Abdias, although there is plenty of legend, "apocryphal and fabulous accounts," there is not a word HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 57 of the journey of S. James to Galicia or of his burial there. Pope Innocent's letter, 416, denies any apostle but S. Peter in Italy, the Gauls, Spain, Africa, Sicily, and the adjacent isles. This may be for rea- sons of his own, and indeed he is insisting on acceptance of the Roman use. To be sure, S. Jerome has a passage about nets and fishers of men, Jerusalem, Spain, and Illyria, but the geographical choice of names is rhetorical rather than historical. The so-called Apostolic Catalogues are hopelessly apocryphal, and entirely dis- credited; this was settled in 1894. Aldhelm, Bishop of Malmesbury, used the legend found in one of these, in composing an altar-inscription, at the end of the seventh century: S. Julian of Toledo had used the same compilation as early as 686 but he made S. James preach to the Jews, at Jerusalem, and deliberately omitted the Spanish episode. It is worth noting that Archbishop Rodrigo Xime"nez of Toledo, in the thirteenth century, treated it as an old wives' tale. Old Mozarabic liturgies before the Apostolic Catalogues AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Mozarabic liturgies twelfth century take no particular interest in S. James. The feast of July 25 came into Spain very late: it is lacking from many calendars of the tenth and the elev- enth century. Before the eleventh century the Spanish apostolate of S. James, then, is mentioned only in a Latin version of the Byzantine Apostolic Catalogue, and in books which depend on this version. Neither this Catalogue in its original Greek text, nor the additions which characterize the Latin recensions, have any title to represent an authentic tradition: certainly not a Spanish tradition. S. Julian of Toledo knowing their assertion, as we have seen, left it out. The Catalogue moreover does not bury him in Spain. The oldest uncon- tested document is the Martyr ology of Adon, c. 860: "Hujus beatissimi apostoli sacra ossa ad Hispanias translata et in ultimis earum finibus, videlicet contra mare Britannicum condita, celeberrima illarum gentium veneratione excoluntur." Long before this, Spain was restless, in- submissive, independently disposed in HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 59 relation to Rome. Galicia was the strong- hold of Priscillians; the invasion of the Suevi, 409, alone saved the bishops from wholesale eviction; as late as 561 they were still strong in the north-west corner of the province; i. e. in the very diocese of Iria Flavia. The heresy disappeared in the seventh and eighth century and the Suevian church was absorbed by the Visigothic. The fall of the Visigoths and the Moslem invasion touched the north-west lightly and not for long. Charters of Alfonso II the Chaste, 829, Ramiro I, 844, and Ordono I, 859, are highly to the point, but they are not universally admitted as authentic. They say that the body of S. James was revealed during the reign of Alfonso, in the time of Bishop Theodomir of Iria Flavia: — that is all, just "re- vealed," down to the end of the ninth century. The Chronicon Sebastiani and the Chronicon Albeldense have not a word of it. Adon probably echoed some en- thusiastic pilgrim who had picked up the story on the spot. Almanzor took Com- postella twice, in 988 and in 994, and Priscil- lians, Friends of God AND MONOGRAPHS 6o WAY OF S.JAMES The Codex as authority sacked and burned it. By 1078 the great church still standing, was begun, and the pilgrimage was in full blast. The two great books on which, after this, all hangs, are the Historia Compos- tellana and the Codex called "of Calixtus II" (called here The Book of St. James). The former deals chiefly with contemporary events, down to 1139, and is virtually a history of Bishop Diego Gelmirez; the second contains (as mentioned before) The Translation of S. James from Jerusalem to Spain, a letter of S. Leo the pope, the Miracles of S. James, collected, nominally, by Calixtus II, the Passion of S. Eutropius of Saintes, the history of Charlemagne by the pseudo-Turpin, and an apocryphal letter of Innocent II authenticating the whole. The Translatio is a clear plagiarism from the History of the Seven Spanish Bishops martyred in the south of Spain, at Acci, now Guadix, near Granada. That story, which includes the seven disciples, the Lady Luparia, with the bridge that breaks down, and the Monte Sagro, was known in Italy and France by the ninth century. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE The letter of Pope Leo (possibly meant for Leo III, 795-816) does not attest the discovery of the relics, only their transla- tion— that the body of S. James was brought by his disciples from Jerusalem into Galicia. Three redactions of this letter exist: the oldest from a MS. of S. Martial of Limoges, in Visigothic writ- ing of the tenth century, added on a blank page. Another, from a MS. in the Escorial, was published by Fita and Guerra in Recuerdos de un viaje a Santiago de Compostela. The third is that of the Liber Calixtinus. The first depends on the Translatio and the Apostolic Catalogues; the second on the work of Adon; the third, quite different, depends on the Translatio and on the Passio S. Jacobi in the pseudo- Abdias. The shrine being by this time troubled by competition in other places that claim some portion of the relics of S. James, this version insists on "integrum corpus," separates itself from the legend of the Seven Spanish Bishops, and makes the two disciples who escorted the body, Athanasius and Theodore. On this ver- AND MONOGRAPHS 61 Pope Leo's letter 62 WAY OF S.JAMES sion depends (1139) the Historia Composte- llana. It may have been known in 1077, if we may so conclude from an act of that year between Bishop Diego Pelaez and Fagild, abbot of the monastery of Anteal- The third tares. At any rate, it belongs to the re- recension building of the church.16 The work was begun in 1082 (so Mgr. Duchesne) and it is quite possible that they looked at the crypt, discovered that therein were only three bodies, therefore revised the legend. Fita and Guerra give no reason for saying precisely that the crypt under the church is of the first years of the Christian era. One can only admit that it is Roman. Probably a great Roman tomb was really discovered in the first third of the ninth century. In summing up, Mgr. Duchesne says — Conclu- i. The belief goes back to a Latin sions recension of the A postolic Catalogues, in no sense traditional documents or trustworthy. 2. About 830 an antique tomb was found, which was considered S. James's; the cult is attested by Adon in France within thirty years. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 63 3. About this time, the middle of the ninth century, was compiled an account of the Translation. A body brought by the Seven Saints from near Granada, pre- supposes the preaching of S. James in Spain during his life. 4. At the end of the ninth century was forged a letter of Pope Leo (any Leo) stated a contemporary of S. James. 5. Nearer the end of the ninth century, or early in the tenth, the letter was revised; the Seven Bishops were left out and the two disciples put in. 6. In 1136 the Historia Compostellana fixed the tradition. 7. All that remains is the Galician cult, from the first third of the ninth century. Mgr. Duchesne leaves in a footnote the recognition of the relics which had been removed in 1589 (when Drake went to Call him Corunna sworn to burn and disperse them), uo the deep sea. . . and were recovered in 1879, — ratified in 1884. AND MONOGRAPHS I 64 WAY OF S.JAMES IV THE STATIONS OF THE WAY Airinos, airinos, aires, Airinos da mina terra, Airinos, airinos, aires, Airinos, levaime a ela. AYMERY PICAUD, Poitevin and clerk in orders of Parthenay-le-Vieux, came to Composteila with a Flemish dame called Girberga, and probably her husband, Oliver of Iscan, vassal of land dependent on S. Mary Magdalen of Vezelay; and for the redemption of their souls they made a gift of the Codex, the Book of S. James, to the apostle. The Latin text here is a little difficult, through some corruption: it is possible that Aymery was travelling with Girberga as her secretary or even as her husband, though the Council of Rheims had again forbidden the clergy to marry. In I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 65 that case Oliver would be Aymery's name, Parthenay his birthplace and Vezelay his suzerain, and in truth, he copies out a miracle on the faith of an abbot of Ve'zelay, The Poitevin like one concerned, though he also tran- scribes the Passion of S. Eutropius of Saintes, and a passage about him from S. Gregory of Tours, being a good Poite- vin. We must be content probably to know little more about him except that he was a poet, and wrote a rousing good marching-song which starts off to the tune of Gaudeamus Igitur, and a longer poem, also rhymed, summarizing the current miracles.1 These will be found in the IV, V Appendix. Furthermore, it is .generally held that he was not probably the same with the Aymery who was chancellor of Santiago, from 1130 to 1141. 2 Of this I am not quite sure, as will presently appear. He is not in any circumstances to be con- fused with Aymerico de Anteiaco, who was treasurer of the cathedral of Santiago in 1326, wrote the manuscript called Tumbo B, and probably the Latin Chronicle of Arch- bishop Berenguel.3 This was the Arch- AND MONOGRAPHS i 66 WAY OF S.JAMES bishop who, a Frenchman from Rodez in the south of France and a Dominican, 4 liked Bishop Beren- but ill the account of Jacobus a Varagine guel's (whom we know better as Jacques de Vora- Legenda gine) and ordered Bernardus Guidonis to write something more to the purpose : s . . . ut Legendam alteram ex sincerioribus actis colligeret et ederet, quod et fecit, quod tamen non impedivit ne Legenda Jacobi de Voragine sua brevitate com- moda passim ab omnibus conquireretur et avide legeretur. The fifth book of the Codex that he gave, is the Pilgrims' Guide, written avowedly in part by Aymery, and by him attributed in part to Pope Calixt, whose endorsement is prefixed. "There are moreover many yet living," he says, "who can testify to the truth of what is writ therein." Since upon the approximate date within the twelfth century scholars are in complete disagreement, a word of common sense may be permitted. The only positive date which occurs in the Codex as a terminus a quo is in that difficult passage about the I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE deaths of kings, quoted and discussed later in another connexion, which reckons from the beginning of the cathedral works as fifty-nine years to the death of Alfonso of Aragon (1134), sixty-two to the death of Henry of England, and fully sixty-three to the death of Louis the Fat of France, which occurred in 1138. Common sense suggests that these three events, not very important to Santiago except in the case of Alfonso el Batallador, must have been recent. Supposing for a moment that Aymery who gave the book wrote it and the three hymns that bear his name, then (i) since he knew the men working on the roads in 1 1 20, he went by that year; (2) since chap- ter xxi in Turpin's Chronicle relates how Charlemagne gave to Santiago all the rights of Primacy, it would be most useful at the time (1120—1124) when Archbishop Diego was trying for that rank; (3) the style of chapter ix of the Guide, written avow- edly by Aymery the chancellor, is precisely like that of all the others, so there is evi- dence for supposing a single author — and Deaths of Kings Hypoth- eses AND MONOGRAPHS 68 WAY OF S. JAMES if Aymery came to Santiago as a poor clerk in ii 20 he could still rise to be chancellor by 1130, D. Diego had done as well as that or better; (4) the attributions of the other Hymns in the Codex are plausible though not convincing: one comes from Poitiers, one from Vezelay, the Patriarch William of Jerusalem was a fellow-countryman of Dame Girberga's. There seems a fair presumption of Aymery 's good faith, and a probability that the date should be set in the eleven-thirties, where for his own rea- sons Gaston Paris put it half a century 6 ago. The forged authentication of Innocent II, on which, by the way, we depend for Not forgery but all we know of Aymery Picaud, is the politics: only piece in a different handwriting: it compare proves on examination not so bare-faced as Vol. III., p. 127 recent scholars would have you think. Of the signatures, only two profess to be auto- graph : one, and it is the first, that of Ay- mery the chancellor, who says the book is authentic and true, and sets his hand there- to. The next signer, Gerard, Cardinal of S. Croce, calls it precious and with his own I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE pen signs; the following five endorse the Pope or praise the book, no more; and lastly, Alberic, Bishop of Ostia (sometime abbot of V£zelay) approves, as "legalem et carissimum et per omnia laudabilem fore."7 The known historical dates of the personages will fix the intended date of this document as between 1134 and 1140, which corresponds with all that can be known or inferred about the state of the building as therein described. Dr. Friedel, a competent palaeographer,8 has conjec- tured that the hand in which the whole Codex is written (he makes no allusion to the changed script that Fr. Fita noted but judged to be still contemporary) belongs rather to the first than the second half of the century. If Aymery the poor scholar brought the kernel in 1120 when he came with Dame Girberga — and here the kernel includes all but Book V, the account of the journey — and while he was yet chancellor had the fair copy made, bringing the ac- count of the church up to date, then the original compilation would have come from France, have been compiled in the interest 69 What testimony AND MONOGRAPHS 70 WAY OF S. JAMES of the pilgrimage, would belong to the first third of the twelfth century, and Perhaps good Aymery's good faith would be safe from faith suspicion. Indeed the attacks upon it have been mostly copied from book to book without examination of evidence. The character of Aymery is my chief con- cern, as Turpin's Chronicle was that of Gas- ton Paris, and M. Bedier's was the Chan- sons de Gestes (while Dr. Friedel's I cannot make out), — for I have kept company with him too long, and found his testimony too good, not to owe him at least a presumption of good faith. These are the chapters: The Guide i. Of the Ways to S. James the Apostle. n. Of the Stages of the Way of S. James by Pope Calixt. in. Of the Names of Cities on the Way of S. James. iv. Of the Three Hospices of the world. v. Of the Names of those who repaired the Way of S. James, by Aymery. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 7i vi. Of Good and Bad Rivers which are on the Way of S. James, by Pope Calixt. vii. Of the Names of the Lands and the Sorts of People, that there be on the Way of S. James. vni. Of the Bodies' of the Saints that Rest upon the Way of S. James which are to be Visited by Pilgrims. ix. Of the City and Church of S. James the Apostle of Galicia by Calixt the Pope and Aymery the Chancellor. x. Of the Number of the Canons. xi. Of how Pilgrims are to be Received. Leaving the itinerary on one side for a moment, we may consider briefly the substance of these chapters. After telling Evidence over the principal stopping-places on the of two recensions way, with indications what they are like, and some repetition, as though Chapter ii and the original of Chapter vi might indeed have fallen into his hands as infor- mation already prepared, the clerk pauses and praises God for the three pillars that sustain God's poor in the world, which are AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S. JAMES Hospices and rivers three hospices, one at Jerusalem, one on the Mount of Joy, 9 and, third, that of S. Cristina in the Port of Aspe. He recites a litany of praise: — Holy spot, house of God, refresh- ment of saints, repose of pilgrims, comfort of the needy, health of the sick, succour of the quick and the dead ! Next he relates the names of those who took care of the road from Rabanal to Puerto Mann in 1120, which affords the probable date for his famous pilgrimage, and adds a prayer that their souls may have rest and peace. The good rivers and bad he carefully reviews. Chapter iii was simply an en- larged and revised version of ii; in vi, on the other hand, the earlier notes (if such there once were) have dropped out, leaving what corresponds to iii, that tells what water is fit to drink and what is deadly, naming towns not elsewhere mentioned, like Torres and Castro de los Judios, which preserves still a tomb dated in the year noo: lastly a river a couple of miles from S. James, in a woody place, which is called Lavamentula because the pilgrims there wash their clothes and themselves. This is HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE in Aymery's best vein, and most char- acteristic. He concludes: "I have de- scribed the rivers that pilgrims going to S. James should study to avoid drinking the deadly and be able to choose those which are fit to drink." Then he frees his mind about all the folk amongst whom he passed on the journey: the Poitevins are heroes and warriors: men of Saintonge speak a patois but men of Bordeaux a worse: Gascons are vain of speech, ragged, drunken, and gluttonous. To the Basques he gives an entire treatise, and of their language, which sounds like the barking of dogs, nearly a score of necessary words. Once through Navarre and past the wood of Oca, the traveller comes out on Castile and the Campo, the north of the province of Val- ladolid. This happy land he loves for its foison of gold and silver, its stately houses and strong horses, provision for all seasons, bread and wine, meat and fish, milk and honey; but yet the woods are desolate. In the eighth chapter he deals with the saints along the way. Now the great saints who were travellers have always 73 Natives AND MONOGRAPHS 74 WAY OF S.JAMES been good to great travellers, and the pres- ent writer owes debts not alone to S. James To Saints be thanks in particular, and in general to S. Ra- phael, S. Roque, and S. Christopher, but also to S. Hilary for valuable information at a critical time, and to S. Julian of the North for harbourage in bitter cold. Therefore of their honours not one shall be omitted: I. To be revered by those who come through S. Gilles : S. Trophime at Aries, and S. Caesar, B. and M., S. Honorat B., at the Alyscamps. also S. Gines, [the player]. Also, all the blessed dead, more than a thousand, in the Alyscamps. Item, S. Giles himself, in his glorious sanctuary, [whose shrine is described at full length, for the imagination to figure what were the treasures of Romanesque art]. Four saints there are whose relics may not in any wise be moved [and they are all found upon this journey] — to wit, S. James, the son of Zebedee, S. Martin of Tours, S. Leonard of Limoges. and S. Giles. [Here also was preserved another Parse of Fulbert's.) II. By those who come through Tou- louse: S. William who was a Count of I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 75 Charlemagne's: SS. Modestus and Flor- entia, S. Saturninus. III. For Burgundians and Germans, coming by Le Puy, the most sacred body is S. Faith's, V. M., at Conques. IV. The way by S. Leonard's begins really at S. Mary Magdalen's at Vezelay ; thereafter S. Leonard is glorified at great length: and S. Front at Pe"rigueux. V. Pilgrims from Tours will revere in Orleans the True Cross and the Shrine of Bishop Evurcius: then S. Martin, S. Hilary, S. John the Baptist, [who has left his name to S. Jean d'Angely but the Jesuits have left to his sanctuary only one arch and a buttress to hold it up]. Saintes, next, gives occasion for the long story of the Passion of S. Eutropius. At Blaye lies the Blessed Roland; at Bordeaux, S. Seurin; and in the Landes of Bordeaux at Belin, four peers of Charlemagne, Galdelbode of Frisia and Otger of Dacier, Arastagne of Britain and Garin of Lorraine. VI. The Spanish saints we shall en- counter m due course: — S. Domingo de la Calzada, SS. Facundus and Primitivus, S. Isidore, and above all, S. James. and hon- our paid at their shrines AND MONOGRAPHS •76 WAY OF S. JAMES The Lord's house at the jour- ney's end So he ends with a prayer that their merits and their intercession may avail for us, and with a rolling Gloria, per infinita saecula saeculorum, Amen! The chapter which follows describes the church as Aymery saw it: this, by great luck for us, was before the addition of Master Matthew's porch. These sections are reserved for consideration with the history of the fabric. Then the author enumerates relics and treasures, with the same intent as his phrases of Basque: — just as the Picard Manier copied out the inventory and preserved his own collection of Spanish words made for use at need. Plainly, this sort of literature constitutes a genre by itself, established and self-per- petuating long before Murray was born or Baedecker dreamed of. The closing chapter enforces the obliga- tions of evangelical hospitality, by a string of miracles that punished those who re- fused it. At Nantes a surly weaver saw his web miraculously rent; at Villeneuve, for a woman who denied that she had bread, her store was turned to stone. In HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 77 the case of two Frenchmen begging their way home, at Poitiers, close to S. Porchaire, all the street that refused a lodging was burned,but the firestayed at the house which took them in. On this testimony ends Book V: Ip sum scribenti sit gloria sitque legenti. To the roads, then, we return: — Examina- Chapter I. Of the Ways to S. James tion of the road-book the Apostle: There are four ways which, leading to Santiago, come into one at Puente la Reyna in Spain. One goes by S. Gilles, Montpellier, Toulouse and the Port of Aspe: another by S. Mary of Le Puy and S. Faith of Conques and S. Peter of Moissac: another by S. Mary Magdalen of Vezelay and S. Leonard of Limoges and the city of Perigueux: another by S. Martin of Tours and S. Hilary of Poitiers and S. John of Ange"ly and S. Eutropius of Saintes and the City of Bordeaux. Those by S. Faith, S. Leonard and S. Martin join at Ostabal and passing the Port de Cize, at Puente la Reyna join the way that comes by the Port of Aspe. And one way thenceforth goes on to S. James. AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Alquimia - In experienced In the second chapter, that gives the stages and the time required, Aymery re- peats apparently what was told to him. From the Port d'Aspe (between Pau and Jaca) to Puente la Reyna is estimated as three short days' journeys: from the Port de Cize (by Roncevaux, between S. Jean Pied-du-Port and Pampeluna) to S. James takes thirteen days, some not long, some so long that they must be done on horseback. The Guide was written, of a truth, chiefly for those who go afoot. None of my mules or men, nor myself, of a truth, was able to push ahead of this itinerary, yet I am assured by one who knows that good walkers in training can do thirty miles a day on a long stretch, and that exceeds considerably the estimate of Murray's Ford for a well-used horse. From general experience I should say the stages are all possible, those indicated for horseback, from Estella to Najera and thence to Burgos, being the hardest, and the last three coinciding exactly with the personal recommendations of D. Angel del Castillo, who has walked all over Galicia. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 79 The third chapter, Aymery's own, names and discusses the towns, indicates hospices, bridges and the like, with a memorial, for instance, of the spot where victor's lances burgeoned in green leaves, and a note on the cairns at Mount joy. For these he ac- counts by the pilgrims' custom of picking up a piece of lime-stone at Triacastela and carrying it to Castanola to make mortar for the building of Santiago. He explains that he has given these indications in order that intending pilgrims may calculate their expenses beforehand. His comment on the towns will be found generally along with the present author's and the complete tabulation of the route, according to the Book of S. James, among the Appendices in the last volume. There, that the curious reader may perceive how little the way has changed in eight centuries, are draughced some typical records of the stations: first Aymery's, that of the Chevalier de Caumont, who went to Compostella in 1417, and one from an English poem of about 1425: the broadside that Columbus's son bought AND MONOGRAPHS Cairns XIV, i 8o WAY OF S.JAMES Itineraries in the fair of Leon for twopence in 1535, which is entitled Le Chemin de Paris a Sanct Jaques en Galice, dit Compostille, et combien il y a de lieues de mile en mile. Follows that from the Reportorio de todos los Caminos, of Juan Villuga, Val- encian, printed in 1547, for the assist- ance of those who have an appetite to travel — "for all," says he, "who come into this life are travellers" — and though, as a Spanish proverb affirms, "Quien lengua ha, a Roma va,"10 yet delay and fatigue are inevitable where one misses the way even a little, and time and dis- comfort are saved by a previous knowledge of the certain and true road. Finally, he indicates the pilgrimages most in repute — to the Six Angelical Houses, Monserrat, the Pilar, Nuestra Senora la Blanco, at Burgos (whom I do not otherwise know), Nuestra Senora del Sagrario at Toledo, and Her of Guadelupe, and Her of Pena de Francia — that he may profit by the users' prayers and acquire merit through their gratitude. The Nouvelle Guide of French Pilgrims HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 81 of 1583, reprinted by the Baron Bonnault d'Houet, adds little even to the fantastic disguises that place-names take for an alien ear. The route of the Picard pilgrim Manier of Noyon, who made the journey in 1726, comes next in order: he, like the fantastical Pclegrino curioso in the seven- teenth century, offers entertainment by the way and figures in the chapters which follow: an Itinerary of Spain dated at Alcala, 1798, completes the series. The reader will see, having perused this volume as well, how little the journeys varied: how Estella, praised for bread and wine and all manner of good victuals in the twelfth century, still stirs regretful longings today; and how the eels of the Mino that were lauded by the Licentiate Luis de Molina at Puerto Marin, were served in a noble pasty to the traveller who now testifies. The road never changes. The English route from Pure has his Pilgrims is found in an early fifteenth century poem wh'ch Purchas took out of a MS. of Sir Robert Cotton's: it is most vile doggerel and contains seventeen hundred and fifty-four lines. It is headed: and itinerants Purchas his Pilgrims AND MONOGRAPHS 82 WAY OF S.JAMES Here beginneth the way that is marked and made with Mountjoies from the Land of England into Sent James in Galis, and from thence to Rome, and from thence to Jerusalem, and so again into England ; and the names of all the cities by their way, and names of their silver that they use by all these ways.11 The account is excessively confused in places, but I have thought well to reprint and discuss the itinerary because it shows already in circulation the travellers' tales of a cleft in the mountain out of which come grievous cry ings and groanings. In Chansons des Pelerins de S. Jacques, which was reprinted by the Abbe Camille Pilgrims' Daux from sources which are none of them Songs earlier, I believe, than broadsides printed at Toulouse in 1615, Valenciennes 1616, and Troyes in 1718 (permitted, there, because already of great age) the data are probably much older than the form. Here you find, at the Mont-Etuves, in Asturias, the same terror, with cruel cold; and a Pont qui Tremble, before which the pilgrims said, one to another, "Comrade, I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 83 you go first." The songs, while they go to different airs, are much alike in substance and in tone; plaintive, interminable, strung and out with the itinerary of the journey, Canticle wailing on like the endless litanies that of Lourdes children's shrill voices sing on hot summer evenings, or like the Canticle of Lourdes with its sixty odd verses: Parmi les monts et praieries Nous chantions la Litanie, Ou quelque bonne chanson ; Et racontions a 1'envie Ce que nous scavions de bon. This was in the seventeenth century: al- ready since the fifteenth the old rough ways by Pyrenean passes were commonly disused, that by the Port of Aspe and that by the Valley of Roncevaux; and replaced by the coast road which runs by Bayonne, Irun, Vitoria, and then, through the defile of Pancorbo, turns aside in the mountains of Oca and comes out at Burgos. A great devour which they include is that to S. Salvador of Oviedo, one much recom- mended. A Spanish proverb says that to AND MONOGRAPHS I 84 WAY OF S. JAMES The Bridge of Dread visit S. James and omit S. Saviour is to call on the servant and neglect the master. It is here, in the mountains of Asturias and on the Cantabrian shore, that they place the more than half legendary Mont- Etuves and Pont qui Tremble. The latter Manier describes in his practical Picard literality: it is the name given to a sort of ferry where at one point the road crosses an estuary, and pilgrims and animals are conveyed together in what the railways call a "barge," big enough to take fifty at a time. The spray and the noise of the waves are alarming, hence — by reason of the danger you are in (he explains) it is called Pont qui Tremble. Of this route from Oviedo to Compostella Sr. Villa-amil ' 2 says that the old highway between Villalba and Oviedo is still in good repair up to within four kilometres of Mondonedo. Also, ten kilometres to the south was an albergaria which was al- ready old in 1257. Beyond Mondonedo it continued by Villanueva de Lorenzana (formerly Villa de Ponte) : for this he cites the record of gifts and sales, one of 1578 HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE and the other 1571, which mentions by name the Camino francos where runs the modern road to Foz and Ribadeo. The Franciscan monastery of S. Martin de Villarente or de los Picas was in the fourteenth century a place to which came many pilgrims and romeros of those who go to the Apostle S. James. From Mon- donedo it goes by Goila'n to the parish church of S. Maria de Vian, at which forks the old road from Mondonedo to Castro- verde and Lugo. Beside S. Mary of the Crossways, here, was the much frequented chapel of the Trinity, and here, not long ago, was found a gold piece of Matthias Corvinus, lost by some pilgrim. From the first, thinks Sr. Villa-amil, the old Way ran to the north of Lugo, leaving what is now the province of Lugo by the Bridge of Garcia Rodriguez and by Puentedeume. Alfonso IX and S. Ferdinand often trav- elled on it. Only a few years before his writing (in 1878) there was not a road in the region, between the Madrid-Corunna highway and the coast, except those used by pilgrims first and now by Maragatos. Our Lady of the Crossways AND MONOGRAPHS 86 WAY OF S. JAMES There are traces, also, of another road that came in perhaps from the south, passed through Incio and reached Puerto Marin. Dozy13 quotes a gloss from the Southerly route from Poem of the Cid that runs a line through Zamora Benavente: and L6pez Ferreiro publishes an itinerary14 that comes up by Verin, Allariz, Orense, Lalin and so to Santiago by the coach-road. The question of the Roman roads can- not here be ignored, though it is more difficult than would appear to the classical scholar. Such roads exist still in Spain, long stretches of them in places. With sudden picturesqueness Quadrado, writing of Roman remains in the Vierzo, calls up one as he has seen it: Two and a half miles from Bergido, he says, on the military road that went to Lugo, in the skirts of a mountain, there survives an arch, and remains of buildings mark the site of an ancient village close to the junction of the Cabrera and the Sil, near the Bridge of Domingo Florez; but the Roman power is chiefly shown in the remains of the . I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE magnificent "street" [calzada] that may still be followed by the eye from afar, across the scrub, like the silvery wake of a ship on the broad sea. IS There is, of course, the A ntonine Itiner- ary, but until lately that has remained for most of Europe in the hands of mere schoolmen, creatures of pen and paper. The various authorities cited in the old edition, disagree rather fantastically about the actual places represented by the Roman names. It means very little to a German scholar that Interamnio Flavio may be Bembibre or may be Ponferrada, that Aquis Originis may be Chaves or may be Bafios de Bande, that Brigantium may be Betanzos or may be Ferrol, but if a man would look out the places on a large-scale map to draw lines between them, he might be annoyed by the divergent possibilities. It would matter a good deal to an engineer trying to survey, or to a traveller wanting somewhere to sleep and to put up his tired horse. When after Ad Duos Pontes, possibly Pontevedra, the next station, Grandimiro, is offered alternatively as Imperial Itineraries AND MONOGRAPHS 88 WAY OF S.JAMES Road- mapping in the study Camarinas on the Atlantic seaboard, or Mondonedo in the Cantabrian hills, even the purblind pedant might be shocked into a query, and into some faint recognition that the two towns are in opposite quarters of the ancient kingdom of Galicia. 1 6 Hitherto, then, the scholars have not shown up well beside the poets of the Chansons de Gestes or even the homely pilgrims and those who wrote down their stages for them. In 1892, however, Sr. D. Antonio Blasquez published a Nuevo Estudio sobre el Itinerario de Antonino,17 which is plausible and recognizes the geography of the peninsula. Suffice it to note here that he identifies Lacobriga with Carrion de los Condes, and Interam- nio Flavio with Onamiol (a village too small to figure on Stieler's map); puts Roboretum in the Sierra de Roboredo, and sets down Brevis for Mellid. The one conviction that the mere student formed over the dusty book is not altered by this article, viz., a certainty that the Pilgrim road in Spaing unlike that to Canterbury, was not built on Roman foundations, except HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 89 in a few great segments, — from Sahagiin past Leon to Astorga, for sure, and through the pass of Roncevaux to Pampeluna probably, and perhaps a bit through the mountains of Oca, toward Najera and eastward. The immense work of Konrad Miller, Itineraria Romano, which represents the labour of more than thirty years, and met long and anxious expectation at last in 1916, is not so satisfactory to consult as the cosmopolitan spirit could wish. Be- sides the crabbed and arid style, besides the tiresome affectations of German pedan- try, which irritate and arrest the reader at every step, the plentiful lack of punctua- tion, the abuse of abbreviations and super- abundance of conventional symbols, the contraction into unintelligibility of every word likely to recur often, so that the effect of the whole is as illegible and unprofitable as that of an undergraduate's notes, the author has had the happy thought of put- ting the names of Spanish towns, and indeed all modern place-names, on all the maps, in a German form and in German script. A German's vagaries AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S. JAMES Three Ways The traveller today has three different lines to trace, the Roman "street," the Camino francos, and the King's highway, the modern and admirable Camino real. They cross and part, coincide and diverge, in ways impossible to predict and not always explicable on the map. But on the spot all is plain: where the new road was built longer to run easier, or was turned aside to a new town, or wanted to tap the railway line. In a few places the old way is quite disused, in most it still persists as a short cut, sometimes foot-path, usually possible to the small-footed silken-skinned mules. At times it is a mere track across somebody's meadow, cut off by gates at either end; at times it is only a conjectural one among half a dozen trails that cross a moor. Some one, however, is always travelling on it: women who sit sideways as Queen Elizabeth rode, men who trot hard with long stirrup-leathers, like Don Quixote. Some one is always to be met, to give a direction or to pass a question on. The ways fill up with tiny moving figures on the days of cattle fair, or of the monthly HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 91 feria conceded by some dead king seven centuries or more ago. You have but to narrow your lids, and watch the pilgrims moving easily, not too slow, as they have always moved. The pilgrims set out from home at night- fall, "circa noctis crepuscula . . . pere- grinantium more": that made the first Twilight stage an easy one, and besides the practical, leave- there may have been a symbolic reason. taking The Grande Chanson says: Quand nous partimes Pour aller a S. Jacques, Pour faire penitence, Confesses avons nos peches. Avant que de partir de France, De nos cures, primes licence, Avant de sortir du lieu Nous ont donne pour penitence, Un chape let pour prier Dieu. Prions Jesus-Christ par sa grace. Que nous puissions voir face a face La Vierge et Sainct-Jacques le Grand. Conformably, in earlier centuries, either before they set out, or at a monastery the first night, the pilgrims confessed, made AND MONOGRAPHS I 92 WAY OF S. JAMES their wills, deposited their valuables and riiftc o *• received, apparently as a gift from the V.T1I IS d.[ parting monastery, staff and scrip, blessed by the abbot. The rich abbey of La Grande Sauve, in Gascony, used to give a horse or a donkey. They had also to carry credentials of some sort from home: in 1671 Louis XIV required that the bishop should recommend the pilgrim and that the passport should be signed and countersigned by the king and a secretary of State. At Santiago the pil- grims confessed again, and communicated, and got other papers, for which they had to pay. For the return journey they set out in the morning, and some went then to Oviedo, some to the great southern shrines, some to Monserrat. Many, like the young Manier, pushed on to Rome, before they saw home again. I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 93 V ROMEROS EN ROMERIA Encore le voient li p&lerin assez Qui a S. Jacque ont le chemin tourne. — Guillaume au Court Nez. IN a decree of a Spanish council, dated 676, cited by the Abbe Pardiac, certain limits are defined as follows: — "one bound- ary runs to Futa and Alarzon, by the road which goes to S. James." The value of this reference would depend partly on the authenticity of the act, partly on the question what church of S. James might be intended. It seems not likely to have been that at Iria. Compostella was still in its original estate of a field under the stars — "qua beati Jacobi corpus tune tem- poris latebat incognitum." Granting that the pilgrimage to S. James commenced only in the ninth century, yet there were AND MONOGRAPHS I 94 WAY OF S. JAMES Gdndara, Cisne Occidental, 11,258 pilgrims a plenty in Spain by the seventh and places famed for their resort. The Deacon Paul of Merida refers to many in the sixth century, and in 629, S. Fructuo- sus wrote, when founding the monastery of S. Martin de Sande: "Vobis fratribus nostris . . . concedimus reditus de Lusisi- no, in elemosinas et sustentationem hos- pitum et peregrinorum." The habit of pilgrimage in a sense is innate; in another sense, possibly it came out of the East, like so many folk-tales, to the troubled Europe of the early Middle Age. S. John Chrysostom says: "Qualem mercedem habet qui propter Deum peregrinatur, talem habet, qui suscepit peregrinantem; et fiunt ambo equales." The Council of Rheims in 625 decrees: "quicumque pere- grinari volunt illam (Eucharistiam) da viaticum suscipiant." In short, pilgrimage was common to all Europe: three special pilgrimages outgrew the others — that of Jerusalem, that of Rome, and that of Com- postella. English readers will recall how similarly, among those to Walsingham, x Glastonbury, and a thousand wells, caves HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 95 and isles, that of Canterbury outstripped the rest by far. Chaucer, who sent his Knight on the Way of S. James, like Raoul de Cambrai and many another, put his "Whanne that finger on the motive in a passage so fragrant Aprile ..." of the mounting sap, so musical with the returning birds, that it breathes still as fresh as April airs: Then longen folk to gon on pilgrimages And palmeres for to seken straunge strondes To ferve halwes couthe in sondry londes. The precise date fixed by a Pastoral of the Archbishop of Santiago, in 1898, for the Invention of the Relics, is 813. "Char- lemagne," says the Gallegan version of Turpin's Chronicle,2 "went on a pil- grimage to the Monument of S. James, and thence to Padron. And he flung his lance into the sea " at Finisterre — Paul the Deacon has the same story of a Lom- bard Duke at Reggio,-5 "and said that thence man could not further go. And the Gallegans, that were all turned to belief in God by the preaching of S. James AND MONOGRAPHS I 96 WAY OF S. JAMES The plough- land tax and his two disciples, and that had turned afte wards to the sect of the Moors, were baptized by the hands of Archbishop Tur- pin: and those who would not be baptized he put to the sword, or into the power of the christened. And this time the king conquered Spain from sea to sea," a profitable pilgrimage, not to be matched in times less fabulous. In recognition of the victory of Clavijo, Ramiro gave, in 872, to Compostella, for every measure of land recovered from the Moors, a measure of wheat and a measure of wine. In 1102, every yoke of oxen from Rio Pisuergo to the sea, paid a tax to S. James. I do not know how much this tax is still enforced. It was abolished in the great years of reform, in 1812 and again in 1835; but I have seen, at the feast of the Apostle, the King of Spain or his representative, offering treasure still before the altar, in a church thronged with pilgrims, among whom he moved as one Spaniard among others. It is hard to know precisely when, out of ail the tangled pilgrimages, that to S. Mil- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Ian for instance and that to the San- tos Domnos at Sahagun, the journey to S. James attained a separate and higher importance. The early donations of Rami- ros and Ordonos to S. Facundo, to ensure the care of pilgrims, mean probably pilgrims that did not pass beyond. But Abbot Julian of Sahagun established, later, a hos- pice in his monastery purely for pilgrims of Santiago. Italians, and in particular Lom- bards, were protected during pilgrimages by a Capitulary of King Pepin, dated 782; " De advenis et peregrinis qui in Dei servitio Roma vel per alia sanctorum festinant corpora, ut salvi vadant et revertantur sub nostra defencione." This, again, is general. Alfonso III gave to the church of Orense, in 886, a donation for the receipt of pilgrims. The earliest reference unambiguous and authentic, that I know, to Santiago, is a casual one of Dozy's. 4 Abderraman II sent Al-Ghazal on an embassy to the King of the Normans not long after 844 and on his way home the Arab poet and diplomat turned aside to visit S. James, in company with the Norman ambassador, and fur- 97 Royal protection AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Arab testimc nished with a letter from the king to the lord of the land. He stayed there two months, very well treated, until the pilgrim season was over. Dozy has not apparently understood this, for he ren- ders "jusqu' a la fin de leur pelerinage," but it can only mean the other. He then went back into Castile with returning pil- grims, thence to Toledo, and finally reached home after an absence of twenty months. It is recorded that as early as 893 Pope Formosus made the pilgrimage to Santiago and also visited S. Julian of Brioude. By the end of the century it is not uncommon. Alfonso III the Great (866-910) came with all his family. In the early tenth century S. Genadius came: he that founded S. Pedro de Montes, and was plucked from his wilderness to administer the see of Astorga, and when he had done his day's work, fled back to the mountain again. Almaccari says that in the tenth century, to Compostella and Iria, came in pilgrimage Christians from Egypt and Nubia. 5 About that time, in 951, Godescalcus, Bishop of Le Puy, left his diocese to go and implore HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE afar the suffrage of S. James, and stopped going and coming at the Monastery of Albelda, where he had copied out in French S. Isidore's treatise on the Perfect Virginity of Mary.6 In 961 Raymond II, Count of Rouergue, was killed on the road to Com- postella, as is written in the Book of the Miracles of S. Faith. S. Abbon, Abbot (988-1000) of Fleury, S. Benoit-sur-Loire, raised an altar to S. James. In his convent, immediately after his death (in 1005) was written the Great Legend of S. James, possibly by the monk Aymoin, his friend and pupil. It is more than likely that he had made the journey, since there is no record of relics acquired which would explain otherwise the especial devotion to that Apostle. The cities which claimed to possess relics are: Toulouse, Arras, Liege, Venice, Pistoja and Burgos. By the eleventh century a great move- ment was well begun. In the first half of it, S. William of Vercelli, at the age of fourteen, walked barefoot in his shirt to Santiago, S. Simeon the hermit, also; and S. Theobald quitted his home and with a 99 French devotion AND MONOGRAPHS IOO WAY OF S. JAMES Road- menders single fellow made the pilgrimage unshod. Under Ferdinand I (1033-1065), says Morales,7 the pilgrimage was quite estab- lished, and miracles were happening all along the road. Don Sancho el Mayor, says the Silense, built roads for the pil- grims going to Santiago, in 1032, and opened a road in 1035 from the top of the Pyrenees to Najera:8 and Alfonso VI, says Pelagic, in the Chronicle of the Kings of Leon, "stud- uit f acere omnes pontes qui sunt a Lucronio usque ad Sanctum Jacobum."9 Building of bridges and mending of ways were good enough work, in the Middle Age, for the best of men. More than one saint broke stone on the roads. To this day the peones camineros, in Spain, are heritors of that great and noble labour; they are housed like soldiers; they wear a uniform and carry a number, like police; they work well, and look you in the eye, and will do you a kindness; they are in Government employment, unabashed. A Lombard Capitulary of 803 recalls to the clergy their duty in building and keeping up bridges, which is their peculiar work I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE "per justam et antiquam consuetudinem." Eudes III, Count of Touraine, in 1030 built a bridge over the Loire that led to the Tomb of S. Martin. In 1164 S. Benet the Less, S. Benezet,10 founded the order of Hospitaliers Pontifcs, and his own little cell and shrine still stands on the ruined bridge over the Rhone, where they no longer dance "sur le pont d'Avignon." There were also Hospitaliers dc S. Jacques du Haul Pas, who must have lent their name to a church and street in Paris and who received a legacy in 1360, 1 1 and others, Hospitaliers of Lucca, in Italy, whose busi- ness was with bridges. Peter the Pilgrim, on the fifth of October, 1126, received a privilege from Alfonso VII to keep him while rebuilding the bridge over the Mino with the help of God and good souls. ' 2 We have from Aymery the list of those who at one time consecrated themselves to work- ing on the road of Santiago between Rabanal and Puerto Marin: — Andrew, Robert, Alvito, Fortis, Arnald, Stephen, and Peter — the last is Peter called the Pilgrim. x 3 S. Domingo de la Calzada got his name from 101 S. Benet the Less AND MONOGRAPHS IO2 WAY OF S. JAMES Order of Santiago Rule of S. Loy who shod the super- natural horse the work he did, and after his death S. Juan de Ortega carried it on, and ended in a chapel on a mountain pass, watching the ways. The order of Santiago was founded in 1172 and confirmed by a Bull of Alexan- der III in 1175, but it grew out of earlier use. The prior and canons of Loyo had, near Leon, on the Camino frances, a hos- pital called S. Marcos for the pilgrims of S. James. Always a canon of Loyo was in residence, to administer the hospital and give alms to pilgrims that passed by there. In time the institution declined and on petition was reformed, and again declined and they tried a prior and canons from Uccles. The original donation, with bridge and a good endowment, was made to the Bishop and Chapter of Leon by Dona Cristina Lainez and provided for a hospice and church for pilgrims. The convent was further enriched by the body of the founder and the first master of the order of Santiago, D. Pedro Fernandez, in 1 184. The epitaph reads: Mens pia, larga manus, os prudens, hace tria clarum, THE PILGRIMAGE 103 Fecerunt Caelo, et mundo te Petre Fer- nandi. Militiae Jacobi stitor Rectorque fuisti. So Militia Dei Sie te pro mentis ditavit gratia Christi.14 Like the other Spanish military orders, this one fast outgrew its original intentions. Lastly, Ferdinand of Aragon took to him- self the Grand Mastership of this along with the other orders, and today it serves merely to lengthen the list of honours of rich gentlemen in Madrid and to dress out plump and handsome canons of Compos- tella in white, red-crossed, on feast-days. Nearly half a century earlier, Alfonso VI (1073), in taking possession of Leon and A King's Castile, said that, in order to do a good benefac- thing for his subjects and for other people, tion not only of Spain but of Germany, France and Italy, who by motive of religion were journeying to Santiago, he would suppress the tolls at Valcarcel: In the port of Monte Valcarcel there was a castle where all passers by paid toll, called S. Maria de Auctares, AND MONOGRAPHS I IO4 WAY OF S.JAMES and this supplied an occasion to molest and rob travellers, which had been the custom from the reign of his predeces- sors, whence resulted grave grievances for all who passed by that port, such, [said D. Alonso] that they cried to heaven , and in especial the pilgrims who went to Santiago, who were never heard in the Kingdom of Leon without male- dictions and indignation against this in- tolerable custom. He abolished the toll forever, that all, of whatsoever condition, could pass freely and without annoyance or inquietude, in such wise that this road to Santiago should be entirely free to pilgrims and even to those who carried merchandise, or went on any other busi- ness whatsoever. 1 5 He makes the offering by the hands of D. Pelayo, Bishop of Leon, to the honour and A Gallegan bishop glory of God and the Virgin Mary and the Apostle S. James, "In cujus ditione terra vel regimen eonsistit totius Hispaniae." Is it worth noticing that Bishop Pelayo was born and bred in Galicia? There were changes with changing times, belike, and some give and take, for in 1094 Bishop I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 105 Pedro leaves to Leon money for altar lights, and four pounds of incense for the altar of S. John Baptist, charged upon the revenues that the see had in Aguilar, in the bridge of Ardon, in Villela and in the church which was on the Camino francos. 1 6 The Council of Palencia, in 1129, pro- tected by identical penalties clerks, monks, travellers, merchants, women, and pilgrims — all persons going peacefully and un- protected about their business. The Fuero of Daroca, 1142, grants a year's delay of any partition in which a pilgrim might be involved: — "si in peregrinatione fuerit per annum expectatur"; and another law secures their goods: — "bona peregrinorum non poseunt capi pro reprisaliis." The old use by which what a pilgrim had upon him fell to the town he might die in, was altered by the Siele Parlidas, which charged the bishop with searching out his heirs. The Siele Partidas are full of provisions for pilgrims — against money-changers and inn- keepers, mayors of towns and lords of lands, robbers, and wars. The Church at the Council of Valladolid, in 1322, orders Ftteros and Siete Parlidas AND MONOGRAPHS io6 WAY OF S.JAMES Canons and Constitu- tions rector and parish priests to receive chari- tably the poor religious and the pilgrims, and where there are special houses provided for that use, to make sure that they are prepared conveniently to fulfill the hos- pitality for which they were designed. One other enviable privilege should not be overlooked: the Constitutions of the Uni- versity of Salamanca, in 1422, declare that a lawful cause for which a professor may be excused from reading (i. e. giving his courses), is that of "peregrinationis ad limina Sancti Jacobi." Ferdinand I, Alfonso VI and the Cid all went on that road. Of the first, the Chronicler of Silos says, "he loved the poor pilgrims, and took great care to harbour them." An old painting of the Cid in Burgos showed him with the cockle-shell at his girdle. Murguia affirms17 that the Archives of Santiago possess, unpublished and even to scholars unknown, a circum- stantial account of the journey made by Pope Calixtus II to Spain in order to visit the body of the saint. This visit has been denied by scholars hitherto. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE In the second third of the twelfth century the Maestrescuela of Compostella, Ramiro, writing to his friend S. Aton, Bishop of Pistoja, begs him to reply promptly, send- ing either by the Easter pilgrims, or else by those of the Ascension. These scraps of old letters will convey, perhaps, more than any studied episode, the sense of the magni- tude of the pilgrimage. The Roman priest who was a Cardinal of Santiago, Deusdedit, writes the same recommendation in the matter of a chasuble: it will be sent best by the Easter pilgrims. When AH-ben-Yussuf, the Almoravide, sent an embassy to Dona Urraca about 1 121, the ambassadors were amazed at the throngs of pilgrims who choked the road. They asked the subaltern detailed to escort and assist them, the Centurion Peter, as the Latin Chronicle calls him: "Who is this the Christians so revered, for whom so great a multitude comes and goes, from this side and the other of the Pyrenees, so that the road is scarcely cleared for us? " And Peter answered with a fine gesture: "He who deserves such reverence is S. James, 107 Ramiro the Maestre- scuela Peter the Centurion AND MONOGRAPHS io8 WAY OF S. JAMES Quercy to Brag a The Lion- hearted whose body there is buried, revered as pa- tron and protector by Gaul and England, the Latin and the German land and all Christian parts." Toward the end of the eleventh century a noble of Quercy, who was a Benedictine monk in the abbey of Moissac, was fetched by Archbishop Bernard to Toledo, made chantre and then Archbishop of Braga, still, at that date, metropolitan of Santiago, finally martyred in 1109. He constitutes another tie between Santiago and Langue- doc, if such were needed. William V of Aquitaine made every year the pilgrimage to Rome and to Compostella. It is said in the Chronicle of Normandy that the horse which William the Bastard rode at Hastings had been brought to him from Spain by a knight, a pilgrim of Santiago. Matilda the Empress, the daughter of Henry I of England, visited the shrine in 1125 and took back to England with her S. James's hand. Richard I the Lion- hearted, in 1178 pushed an expedition18 into the Port of Cize to punish the rustics who violated travellers and pilgrims. The HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 109 city of La Reole, where pilgrims crossed the Garonne, was an especial residence of his: it had an hospital and a street of S. James. To S. James was dedicated the principal church of Bergerac. Bordeaux has a rue S. James, existent since 1152: it is the sole vestige in Bordeaux of English dominion in Aquitaine. The father of Eleanore of Guienne, Wil- liam X of Aquitaine, being converted by S. Bernard at Parthenay in 1133, founded outside Bordeaux, in the Clos-Moron (now rue du Mirail) the Hospital of S. James for pilgrims. The chapel stands yet. He went on the pilgrimage in Lent of 1137, expired while the Passion was sung, and was buried before the altar. . According to other ac- counts this funeral was a pious sham; he went to Rome and Jerusalem and ended as a hermit on Mount Lebanon twenty years after. Murguia publishes a rather lovely Gallegan romance, taken down from the lips of the living, which seems to refer to the blessed death of this William be- fore the altar. The old man, who has not strength to finish the journey, whose feet AND MONOGRAPHS Rue S. James William of Aquitaine no WAY OF S.JAMES Frisians are bleeding, whose beard is so long and so white, whose eyes are so soft, so veiled, so like a lion's, green as sea water, — he meets a soldier on the road. The soldier is of course the great S. James, who cheers him and assists him, and brings him at last where he would be. r 9 In the Cartulary of S. Pere de Chartres is recorded a gift in the middle of the twelfth century, "dono patris sui qui in itinere sancti Jacobi de- functus extulit." Hugues IV, Duke of Burgundy, had just ended the pilgrimage when he died in 1272. In 1217 some Frisians, a people always very devoted to S. James, who were bound on the Crusade in three hundred ships, touched at Lisbon and on the petition of bishops, Templars and Knights of S. John, they besieged the citadel of Alkacer, and encountered four Saracen kings and a hundred thousand fighting-men. By adverse winds they were forced to put in to Corunna, and almost all struck out for Santiago on foot; as the ships were held there nine days before the wind changed, they had time enough for what the Dutch historian calls "their superstition." HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE in Louis IX had as great devotion — Join- ville, I think it is, reports — to Monseigneur S. Jacques as to Madame S. Genevieve, Collect of S. James and when dying said over his prayer Eslo Domine: "Keep, Lord, Thy people, and sanctify them, that fortified by the help of Thy Apostle S. James, they may please Thee in their works and serve Thee with a quiet heart. Amen." Louis VII of France, who had married Constance, the daughter of Alfonso VIII, had made the pilgrimage in 1157, after he had been on a crusade and to the shrine of Notre Dame du Puy. Luke of Tuy makes the story another of the Miracles of S. James, splendid like a reli- quary with coloured gems and bossy with wrought gold. In brief, it stands thus: Louis, King of France, thinking his wife Elizabeth [she is usually called Con- stance] a concubine's child, and her father Alonso [Alfonso VII the Emperor] a man of no moment in any but his own estimation, denies her his bed. So on pretext of a pilgrimage to S. James he comes to Spain, and D. Alonso meets him with the King of Navarre, and the Count AND MONOGRAPHS I 112 WAY OF S.JAMES Vindica- tion of a French Queen of Barcelona, and so great a train that King Louis and his Franks marvelled, and they all go to Santiago and thence through Spanish cities to Toledo. There the kings of the Barbarians and princes of the Christians kiss his hand, till Louis cries: "By God I swear there is no glory like this in all the world"; and the tents and the plays were past numbering, and they all offered gifts, gold, silver, precious stones, silk, vestments, and horses, to King Louis, him and his, so that the very number wore them out. Then Alonso says that Elizabeth is the daughter of his empress Berenguela, the daughter of Raymond of Barcelona there present, and he comes up, glorious in apparel, and remarks that it were well to honour and reverence her, for otherwise the Catalans are marching on Paris. Louis thanks God and is content: nor will he take any other gift but a great emerald — which King Zaf adola had given to King Alonso — and so he went home joyfully and gave the emerald to S. Denis, and loved his wife Elizabeth very tenderly and honoured her in every possible way.20 HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Ferdinand III, Ferdinand IV and John of Brienne, King of Jerusalem and later Emperor of Constantinople, went to the shrine of S. Martin in preparation for that of S. James: at the same time, in Tours were the Archbishop of Nineveh and various bishops of Little Armenia coming back from Compostella. These are they who brought into Europe the notion of the Wandering Jew. 2 * The Blessed Raymond Lull visited Rocamadour and Compostella. S. Francis is said to have come with some companions, including Brother Bernard, in 1214. I can find no sound evidence that he, or S., Dominic either — though the latter was a Spaniard — ever set foot in Santiago. Guido Cavalcanti set out, but on account of the Lady Mandetta in Toulouse he never finished the journey. Sordello, how- ever, is said to have gone thither, and the trobador Romieu de Villeneuve, that Dante met in Paradise, where he saw the lights shining in the shining pearl, who lived at the court of Count Raymond Berengar of Toulouse for a while and being falsely ac- cused, wandered away again: The Wandering Jew AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S. JAMES Romieu de Villeneuve There came to his [Raymond Beren- gar's] court a certain Romeo, who was returning from S. James's, and hearing the goodness of Count Raymond abode in his court, and was so wise and valor- ous, and came so much into favour with the Count, that he made him master and steward of all that he had. . . . Four daughters had the Count and no male child. By prudence and care the good Romeo first married the eldest for him to the good King Louis of France by giving money with her, saying to the Count, 'Leave it to me, and do not grudge the cost, for if thou marriest the first well thou wilt marry all the others the better for the sake of her kinship and at less cost.' And so it came to pass; for straightway the King of England, to be of Icin to the King of France, took the second with little money; afterwards his carnal brother, being the king elect of the Romans, after the same manner took the third; the fourth being still to marry the good Romeo said: 'For this one I desire that thou shouldst have a brave man for thy son, who may be thine heir,' — and so he did. Finding HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE "5 Charles, Count of Anjou, brother of King Louis of France, he said, 'Give her to him for he is like to be the best man falsely in the world,' prophesying of him: and accused this was done. And it came to pass afterwards through envy, which destroys all good, that the barons of Provence accused the good Romeo that he had managed the Count's treasure ill, and they called upon him to give an account. The worthy Romeo said, 'Count, I have served thee long while, and raised thy estate from small to great, and for this, through the false counsel of thy people, thou art little grateful: I came to thy court a poor pilgrim, and I have lived virtuously here; give me back my mule, my staff, and my scrip, as I came here, and I renounce thy service.' The Count would not that he should depart; but, for nought that he could do would he remain; and, as he came so he de- , parted, and no one knew whence he came or whither he went. But many held that he was a sainted soul.22 In 1253 the Friar Minor William Rubro- ques met in the depths of Tartary a Nes- AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S. JAMES The Greek Bishop The cost of war torian Monk who spoke of setting out for S. James of Galicia. Under Ferdinand the Great a Greek Bishop named Stephen was so happy when he came at last to the Apostle's shrine, that he gave up home and see and stayed there till he died. The ends of Europe were drawn together. There in 1254 was the wronged Christina of Norway, the daughter of Haakon IV, who though she married the pi ince D. Philip, yet breathed away like a snow wreath and died untimely. Thither also went S. Bridget of Sweden, S. Elizabeth of Portugal, Raymond VII of Toulouse in 1246, and Henry II of Trastamara, the bastard who killed his brother. Studying the influx from abroad, Sr. Villa-amil unearthed a curious item bear- ing on the cost of war and who pays it. In an agreement drawn up in 1345 between the Dean and Chapter of Lugo, on the one hand, and a canon called Juan Diaz on the other, about the rent of an altar in the cathedral church, for the sum of 700 maravedis, payable at Lady-Day; it is expressly stipulated that if the King of HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 117 France and the King of England go to war this year between Candlemas and May Day, there shall be deducted from the rent an hundred maravedis. Many churches are dedicated to the saint of wayfarers in Flanders and Picardy, especially in the neighbourhood of Havre, Dieppe and Compiegne. By a curious coincidence, while the two former towns are sea-faring places, the last grew into a great nucleus of railways. Frisia dedi- cated the gates of cities. Slavonians had a special devotion to the pilgrimage: after three trips, a man might live exempt from taxation . They gave their name, in Spanish and English alike, to the long, waterproof pilgrim's coat, the slaveyn. Ojea recorded, in 1600, that they came the end of April, so as to be at the sanctuary on May Day, and immediately reported to the superior clergy and ob- tained certificates from them. The third year they put garlands on their heads and went in solemn procession that day, in sign that they had fulfilled their devotion and the requirements of Traveller's towns . Their hats were of the brake . . AND MONOGRAPHS n8 WAY OF S.JAMES Sir Walter Manny's end the law, in order to enjoy its exemptions thereafter. 2 3 In the fourteenth century the practice was at its height. Froissart tells how Sir Walter Manny was evilly killed as he came home from S. James. 2 4 It is known that in 1361 Messire Jehan de Chartres and Pierre de Montferrand, going on the pil- grimage, took three jongleurs with them: and an English minstrel named Walter was in Compostella about this time. 2 s It had become an element in politics. For instance, on the fourth of September, 1316, a contract between Robert and the cities of Flanders, and Philip, Regent of France, stipulated that " If Count Robert can. he shall go over sea with him who shall be King of France, when he shall go. He will go, and his sons, in one year or two (unless his father or he be ill), once or more to S. James in Galicia, to Noire Dame de Roche-Mador, to Notre Dame de Vauvert, to S. Gilles in Provence, to Notre Dame du Puy." A treaty signed on Christmas Eve at Arcques (near S. Omer) 1326, between the King of France, Count Louis of Flanders, and the HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 119 Flemish cities, stipulates that three hun- dred persons of Bruges and Cambrai must go on pilgrimage, one hundred to S. James, one hundred to S. Giles, and one hundred to Rocamadour. Before this, in 1284, the two sons of Herbert called the Scrivener, for having ill-used Girart the Butcher, of Compiegne, were condemned to make the pilgrimage to Compostella. They were the first of their townsmen to go. A decree of the Parliament of Champagne dated January 9, 1367, and preserved at Rheims, supplies another instance. Mar- garet, wife of the Viscount Ponsard Larra- bis, petitions that a certain Stephen who had called her names and beaten her (ratione injuriarum el verberationutn) shall be condemned to make public satisfaction and to go in pilgrimage first to S. Thomas of Canterbury and after to S. James of Galicia, living in each place a year at his own expense, and bringing back letters which show that he has done it. As early as 1115 the Council of Oviedo had prescribed for certain offences against the Church that the criminal should become Penitential pilgrim- ages AND MONOGRAPHS I2O WAY OF S.JAMES either a Benedictine monk, or an anchorite, or a church serf, or a perpetual pilgrim — for all the days of his life. The penitentials of Bede and of Theodore both contemplate Creating the tramp this penalty, of temporary or perpetual pilgrimage, according to the offence, and Rabanus Maurus disallows it. In the Capitularies of Charlemagne likewise it is forbidden, because it ruins the man: it creates the tramp. The Inquisitors of the South of France often imposed annual pil- grimages at fixed dates, called Visitations, which worked like reporting periodically to a Probation Officer. On the other hand, in the twelfth century the Arch- bishop Hildebert wrote to Foulques, Count of Anjou and Maine, who wished to set out on the pilgrimage: Among the talents that the master of the house divides among his servants, no doctor has ever counted that of gad- ding abroad ; and S. Hilarion, being near to Jerusalem, went thither one time lest he should seem to despise the holy places, but only once. . . . You will say to me perhaps, I have made a vow, and not to I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 121 keep it were a sin. But consider that you yourself bound yourself by this vow, but God laid on you the charge of gov- erning your peoples : see if the good fruits this journey will yield, can make up for the loss of duties left undone. If the latter good is beyond comparison the greater, as cannot be denied, then stay in your palace, live for your state, do jus- tice, protect the poor and churches.26 In England, a pilgrimage to S. James was not infrequently a necessary condition Condition to the inheritance of property. The to inherit- poem, however, that the Early English ance Text Society reprints, has little to do with S. James beyond the first couplet. The rest is devoted to sea-sickness and the dis- comforts of ocean travel. 2 7 But the English came, notwithstanding. Out of ten se- lected years, running from 1397 to 1456, D. Jose" Corinde makes up a total of 130 ships, and 7907 pilgrims arriving in Galicia. The inspiration of this great volume of travel was in part, at least, commercial, just as economic reasons underlay the change when in the following century we read, instead, AND MONOGRAPHS I 122 WAY OF S.JAMES of Drake's raid on Corunna, or "The True Relation of a Brave English Stratagem prac- ticed lately upon a sea town in Galicia, one of the Kingdoms of Spain; and most valiantly and successfully performed by one English ship alone of thirty tons, with no more than thirty -five men in her."28 The Licenciate Luis de Molina, in his Description of the Kingdom of Galicia, which he printed in Mondofiedo in 1550, relishes highly the long roll of countries represented, reciting them with a reminis- cence of the Pentecostal miracle: Roll-call Visitale Albania, Normandos, Gascones, Mallorca, Menorca, Cerdena, y Cecilia, Efesios, Corintios, Dalmacia, y Panfilia, Vascos, Chiprianos, tambien Esclauones, De Ponto, y Tesalia, y aca los Saxones, Polonia, Noruega, Yrlanda, y Escocia, De Egypto, de Siria, tambien Capadocia, De Jerusalen, con otras naciones. Visitale Francia, Ytalia, Alemania, Ungria, Boemia, gran parte de Grecia, Los Negros Etiopes, Ybernia, Suecia, Caldea, Fenecia, ni Arabia se extrana, ' I HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 123 Ymas Ynglaterra, con Flandes, Bretana, Del gran Preste Juan, de Armenia, y de Frisia Teniendo tal cuenta con esta Galicia Los quales afrentan a nos los de Espana. The pilgrimage could be made by proxy, or by delegates. Barcelona, in 1465, when the plague was there, sent Fray Miguel Proxy Capeller and Fray Leonardo de Gratia: in 1475 from Palma de Mallorca came two chaplains of the church of S. Maria del Mar. Kings sent ambassadors. The Eng- lish King, Henry II, asks once rather im- patiently for a safe conduct for the journey, or if he cannot have that for his proper person, then one for ambassadors of his. After the death of Louis XI, Martillon came to Santiago to make the offerings provided by the King's will, and brought with him founders to make goodly bells. As representative, later, of Philip IV of Spain and Margaret his Queen, came Bishop Diego de Guzman, who was to be Archbishop of Seville. His offerings were chiefly in kind, Florentine textiles of un- paralleledmagnificence,and wrought silver. AND MONOGRAPHS I 124 WAY OF S.JAMES The Soul as Pilgrim It was possible, also, to go for the dead. In the year 1403, Juan Fernandez de Guermeces signed a very devout will in which, after ordering a certain number of masses to be said, and leaving divers alms to the convents, hospitals and asylums situate in various streets and houses of Burgos, he directed that two men should go on pilgrimages on his account, one to the Sepulchre of S. James and the other to the shrine of Our Lady of Guadelupe. It is not far from this possibility of a jour- ney for the dead, to the belief that the dead themselves may go. In the Asturian Romance of El Alma en Pena, among those collected by D. Jose Menendez Pidal, the poor soul itself fulfills the pilgrimage. On the way of Santiago went a pilgrim soul: the night was starless, the earth was shaken. A caballcro comes to the win- dow:— "If thou be of evil, I conjure thee to depart, if thou be of this world, tell me what is wanted." The sinful soul has come to running water, and cannot cross, — "Trust to the rosaries said in life." — "Alas, I said none." — "Trust to the fasts." — HISPANIC NOTES The Soul as Pilgrim (From a Miniature of the Fifteenth Century) THE PILGRIMAGE "I never fasted."— "To the alms."— "I gave none." Then the caballero lights consecrated tapers at the window and on the ray of light they cast, the soul crossed the running water and went on: and re- turned the same night singing: "Blessed the caballero, who has saved his soul and mine."29 As this condensed version gives no notion of the touching loveliness of the poem, I have reprinted it in the A ppendix along with an English ballad that shows some curious divergence in the midst of likeness. In another of Sr. Menendez Pidal's Romances, the pilgrim who passes on her way taller than a pine-tree, so charms the eye and draws the desire of the King that he lays out the finest bread and wine, the richest clothing, the warmest cloak, and sends a page to fetch her; she is under an olive tree, combing out her blond hair silken-fine: she will not be bribed by his offers, for she is queen in heaven, she is the blessed Magdalen.30 In yet another, she is Mary Queen. Very little abashed, he renounces seduction and betakes him to supplication: she hears him graciously. 127 Running Water XI X HISPANIC NOTES 128 WAY OF S.JAMES Messen- gers in slavey n The pilgrim who is not a pilgrim but some one else in disguise, is a common- place of the Chansons de Gestes. In Guy de Bourgoyne the venerable Charlemagne thus disguises himself: in Anseis of Car- thage, by this device the King's messengers get through to France, just as this is the array in which those of Gelmirez try to reach the Pope, in the Historia Compostellana, which is truth written by eye-witnesses. In the Cantar de Garci Fer- nandez, the Countess Argentina was first carried off, like Bernardo del Carpio's mother, while en romeria a Santiago, and afterwards she was greatly taken with a count of her own land who yva en romeria in his turn : and the end of all these persons is in the tragedy of blood. In the Poem of Ferndn Gonzalez it is a knight bowne to S. James from somewhere in Lombardy who brings word to the King's daughter that the good knight lies in prison, and again it is she, disguised as a romera, who contrives his escape, in a famous romance that Lockhart has translated. The latest editor of Flares y Blancaflor, 3 1 the fifteenth - HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE 129 century Spanish novel, wants to have the whole exquisite romance, with all its French and -Italian forms as well, fall into line simply as another of the Miracles of S. James. His argument is not quite weighty enough, but the setting, at least, of the orient gem he shows to be the cult of the Apostle: with the pilgrimage to Santiago the action begins, by an unaccountable mira- cle the denouement is contrived, and with another pilgrimage to Rome the whole ends. The incident lay always ready at hand, plausible, symbolic, romantic, for history, epic, or allegory. The miracles that hap- pened along the road are of all sorts, but mostly quite practical, and they seem to have happened over and over again. From Ozanam's Pelerinage an Pays du Cid I have gathered one, fragrant as the rosemary of the Pyrenees, that perfumes all the day.32 It is told of S. Bona of Pisa, who with a company of pilgrims came to a torrent where the bridge was ruinous. As the party stood about wondering what to do, Christ appeared to her and said: "Raise AND MONOGRAPHS Flores y Blancaflor . . . Far out at sea. says Howell S. Bona of Pisa 130 WAY OF S.JAMES Que (.c.nt6 la gallina asada your arms, and pass." The company cried out as she started, but a multitude of saints came down from heaven, popes and bishops in cope and mitre, and stood in the stream on both sides of the bridge. She passed in safety. Then Christ said: "Call your companions; not one of them shall perish if you keep your hands raised all the time they are crossing," and at last she coaxed them all across. One man saw the popes and bishops as he passed. Usually, however, S. James took care of the miracles. There is the story of the stolen cup and the pious German pilgrim, falsely accused by a maid-servant he had rebuffed:33 he was hanged, and his parents went on, but when they came back he was yet alive, for S. James had held him up so that the rope did not strangle. This is told of Toulouse. At S. Domingo de la Calzada they still keep, caged, above the transept arch, a pair of white chickens of the breed that got up, under the carving knife, and crew, to confute a judge who in a like case had pronounced sentence and seen it executed. HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE Navagero saw them, and I. You remember the story : have seen it painted on a chapel wall at Forli: the parents shaken by the conflict of long grief and new-born hope, the judge who says, "That man was dead as these roast chickens, " and the cock who claps his wings and stretches his throat to testify that the saint can protect his own. Another story is not without edification, that of a pilgrim from Barcelona who prayed never to be a captive. He was taken by the Saracens and sold thirteen times, but the chain always broke on his limbs. In the end, however, the apostle uggested to him that the chains of sin were worse and his prayer would have been better directed upon the spiritual side. There is a touching history of a boy, a good lad of Lorraine, who when one of the party fell ill by the way in Gascony stayed with him while the rest went on, nursed, and at last buried him. This was in the year 1080. Then he resumed the wallet and staff to go on atone, but a rider over- took and picked him up on a great white horse that devoured the miles, that gal- At Forll by the Adriatic . It bon Lorrain AND MONOGRAPHS 132 WAY OF S.JAMES On the white horse loped up mountains and down them again, splashed streams an instant and was far on in the dust, till the trees whizzed by and the sun was left behind. At nightfall the boy found himself set down on the Mount of Joy, in view of the cathedral towers, just a pace ahead of all his friends with whom he had set out from home. The Venerable Guibert de S. Marie of Nogent-sous-Coucy, in the diocese of Laon, tells of a young man who made the journey girt with the girdle of his mistress. The devil, seeing him so far on the road to salvation, made a furious assault, flung him into despair, and persuaded him to suicide, which meant, of course, damnation. S. James interceded for him in heaven, restored his soul to earth long enough for penitence and absolution, and took it back with him into Paradise. Need was there, after all, on the long road, of miracles, for it was a hard road, and of great saints to take care of little souls, for not all who went came home again. I have the story, in a private letter, of a French gentlemen, my cor- HISPANIC NOTES THE PILGRIMAGE respondent's ancestor, who setting out on the pilgrimage in the fifteenth centuiy, arranged his affairs and provided that if he should die on the way, his bones might be brought back to rest in France; or if the money upon him should not suffice, then, at least, be brought so far as possible. There you feel, for an instant, the home- sick, the exile, as in the words which Dante uttered prophesying, for he knew not yet what way he should die: — "These pilgrims seem to me to be from a far country and I believe that they have not even heard speak of my lady and know naught of her; rather their thoughts are of other things than of these here; for perchance they are thinking of their distant friends whom we know not . . . The wide sense, in so far as whoever is outside his fatherland is a pilgrim: in the narrow sense, none is called a pilgrim save him who is journeying towards the sanctuary of S. James, or is returning. They are called palmers, in so far as they journey over the sea, theie, whence many times they bring back palm branches; they are called pilgrims in so 133 Dante in the Vita Nuova AND MONOGRAPHS 134 WAY OF S. JAMES far as they journey to the sanctuary of Galicia, because the tomb of S. James was farther from his own country than that of any other apostle."34 Very many who set forth, came not home at the long last: by the side of the road Graves by are their graves, in parish churches, in for- the way gotten sanctuaries. The bishop who had been all the way to Jerusalem and had got him a precious relic of S. Andrew to bring home, lies yet in Estella. The Knights who were surprised as they slept by Cea bank, yet sleep there still. Every hospice or its site, along the way, has more graves than names of pilgrims to tell over. Urged by more than mortal desire, through the centuries, they pressed on, "for they seek a better country, that is, an heavenly." Vous qui allez a Sainct lacques, Je vous prie humblement Que n'ayez point de haste: Allez tout bellement. Las! que les pauvres malades Sont en grand desconfort! Car maints hommes et femmes Par les chemins sont morts. I HISPANIC NOTES BOOK TWO 135 BOOK TWO THE WAY AND MONOGRAPHS I 136 WAY OF S.JAMES A-t-ilceintses reins pour le voyage, de Compostelle ou pour celui de la Mecque? S'est-il embarque dans un pieux pelerinage archeologique? A -t- il pris le besace el le baton du Juif errant? A-t-il etc de monument en monument, de relique en r clique, de porte en porte, se recommandant a tons les saints ou a tons les pr ophites du Paradis, mendier fierement sur les grands chemins, a la sueur de son front, le pain de la verite. — Courajod. I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 137 I SETTING OUT "Nous etions bien bonne compagnie de gens studieux amateurs de peregrinite." THE cypress, it seems, grows in Langue- doc along with the poplar, the poplar of northern France with the Italian cypress, side by side. The country was gilded with ripening wheat, and the sun was in the sign of the Lion. From thick green banks blew into the train the scent of elder; there bloomed eglantine and the pink wild rose together. When Jehane came back after coffee at a station, she found the carriage pleasantly populous with irresponsibles, — old women, babies, and a priest: two sickly children with their sickly mother in cheap ready-made clothes, two handsome, whole- some grandmothers en bonnet, and the AND MONOGRAPHS I 138 WAY OF S.JAMES The Sun in Leo priest's the most beautiful woman's face of all. Jehane is long and brown and deceptively gentle, children gravitate to her very luggage; with difficulty we kept our seats at the window and our attention on the thick slow waters and strong vegeta- tion without. We had met, by appoint- ment, in Toulouse on Midsummer Day, Jehane coming from Italy and the other from farther, following the starry track, both firmly purposing to go into Spain by the mountain road. Where the railway ended we should take a diligence, or, if there were none, a carriage; where wheels did not go we should take mules; where rocks were too steep, we should essay them on foot. We had corded up our boxes and left them with the landlord; we had strapped up our bags and put them in the carriage; and had taken our tickets for Pau and thence au deld. We knew it lay somewhere beyond Pau, to which city, English-haunted, we had letters that we hoped never to present; that it lay some- where beyond Oloron where the portal of S. Mary's church looks already more Span- HISPANIC NOTES Crest of the Pyrenees THE WAY ish than then we knew. Bedous was the present terminus. The last part of the way was stirring. We had left the soggy plain, with its water- channels and its dark green stuff, all irri- gated. The pale far crests of the Pyrenees, and their blue gulfs in between, we had lost from sight in the approach: — say, at Lourdes, or shortly thereafter. There everyone else had got down, for there was the end of their pilgrimage. About the train, as it halts, the hills rise kindly, a little river winds clean and pure below, the rock still stands, with a living spring be- neath— all the ancient site where celts and arrow-heads are still -dug up, where earliest man and thereafter his sons came worship- ping, before any history had begun. Be- tween the great flanks of the mountains lie valleys blue like the calm blue that sleeps in a horse's eye; in an hour the train had burrowed among the red and tawny rocks of them, and through the cold air of torrents it climbed and twisted, through the scent of. dark fir trees; and when the laborious panting engine was quiet a 141 Lourdes HISPANIC NOTES 142 WAY OF S. JAMES Bedous moment, the green stream below roared into stillness. Twilight closed in upon the glimmering rapids, among the dark tree trunks, and in the pale strip of sky some pale stars shook, before the line suddenly stopped, as though it too were only halting for the night or for a week, while the great building of the railway went on incessantly. Having asked a few questions at Oloron, and knowing beforehand that wherever engineers could sleep, there could we, with thankfulness we undid the bags in an interval and took out the ultimate in- dispensables for a night; then, at Bedous, abandoning the rest in a corner of the station, walked out into the dark of a village street behind a friendly railway employee. We need have no fear, he assured us, for the man who drove the daily motor omnibus would put up that night at the inn. There was no porter, for nobody was expected by the evening train, but he carried the little sack as well as the post bags, and guided us, stopping for various matters on the way, down the whole straggling white-faced village to the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY inn. When we got there at last, no room remained; the landlady was honestly sorry, not so we, for the men eating and drinking looked in the candlelight noisily disposed. There was, it came out, another inn, to which the maidservant kindly took us, "though it is not like ours," she said proudly. They were all so honest and proud, in Bedous, — the new landlady, again, in her offer to send out and buy meat at that hour of the night. We supped con- tentedly, after a homely fashion, and went to bed above the mules in a room big enough for town meeting. One end opened above the little street of houses that re- called the Engadine, stuccoed and iron- barred, the other on a wooden gallery above a garden that smelt of lilies and roses under the dew-fall, and at the end of every opening and above the crest of every building rose into the filmy moon- light the vast back of mountains. Next morning, when the yellow motor omnibus backed out of a hangar and cir- cled up to the station, for passengers arriv- ing or awaiting, we sought out the driver 143 A Pyrc- nean village AND MONOGRAPHS 144 WAY OF S. JAMES A river- road and bribed him with a small fee over and above the extra fare, to allow us on the seat beside him, whereby the other man in corduroys who took up fares and handed down bundles, and the like, travelled most of the forty miles to Jaca on the step, holding fast by the dashboard. Including all stops, and the customs examination at Canfranc, we ran those forty miles in four hours, along the little river valley. Every- where it was lovely, but not so romantic as that of the night before: a perfect road, hard and white, ran easily, for the most part almost by the water side; and now above it, now below, sometimes even on the other side of the stream, ran the railway that should carry back and forth, between France and Spain, where once the pilgrims passed. Being born and bred to railways, one could admire the building, so skilful that it looked easy, done in accord with the modern admission that the Indians' way was the right one — the way of the makers of trails, who expend less strength going around an object than climbing over it, and bend the path if a tree falls or a rock HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY topples. On that summer day the men expected that two years more would see it done: the two years are passed and much, belike, has been undone, and the rest remains untouched, but the road yet runs. So there it ran, now white and winding above the river bottom, now grey and barred with shadows where a village flanked it on either side. Dogs fled, children were snatched back, the glare of mountain light was tempered for a brief space, and then grey hillsides drew away again and grey stucco lay far behind. In the first hour the houses, square and colour-washed, their windows square and barred, still recalled the Engadine, as indeed do, a little, the mountains, in their large lassitude, so un-Alpine. Then one was aware of small iron balconies more frequent, and the slope of the roofs un- familiar and alien. The river is left sud- denly below, to burrow like the railway through the international barrier, but the highway climbs in many loops a vast mountainous bulk, set there as if ordained for a barrier, though it has never stopped 145 and Engadine houses AND MONOGRAPHS 146 WAY OF S. JAMES Summo portu Visigothic king or French bishop, Charle- magne or Bonaparte. The fort of Urdos is a mere rocky boss in the midst of rock, crowning a wooded spur, and the granite way zigzagging up to it is walled and loopholed; the very granite mass of the mountain is loopholed and fortified. Then green trees, the light- leaved sort, were left. Somewhere here a shapeless rocky mass, of weather-worn stones that once were hewn, marks the site of the Hospice of S. Cristina. From the time of the Goths1 existed on the crest of the Pyrenees above Jaca, a shelter where various monks took care of pilgrims that passed that Port. Aymery Picaud praised it before all: — hos- pitale S. Christinae, unum de tribus hos- pitalibus cosmi.2 Gaston IV of Beam, a hero of the first Crusade, founded and Gaston V in 1216 refounded the hospice above Somport, 3 and the name of that town is summo portu, the pitch of the pass. He dowered it with various revenues in Aragon and gave it to canons of S. Augustine. King Alfonso of Aragon, great lords of HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Spain, Gascony, Hungary, and Bohemia, contributed to its foundation, and built in their domains hospices depending on it. It lasted till 1558 and then, like so many other ancient and pious works, it was removed to the capital. 4 Possibly the monks pre- ferred living in town: certainly the crown preferred their keeping within reach. When Leonore of England, the daughter of Eleanore of Poitou and the sister of Cceur-de-Lion, came into Spain to marry Alfonso VIII, five Spanish bishops met her at Bordeaux, and with them "the most exquisite flower of the nobility of both Castiles,"5 white monks and black, Cister- cian and Benedictine, and especially the great dignitaries of the Religious Orders. With them came back by the Port of Aspe, by Somport and Canfranc, a noble escort of her own people: the archbishop of Bor- deaux, the bishops of Agen, Poitiers, Angou- leme, Saintes, Perigord, and Beziers, and a host of lords and knights, English, Gascon, Breton, and Norman. They rode together as far as Tarazona, escorted by Alfonso of Aragon, to be met there by her spouse, his 147 A Queen's progress AND MONOGRAPHS 148 WAY OF S. JAMES The King- dom's limits namesake of Castile, with all the prelates and nobles left in Spain, it would seem; and thence the visitors turned back again in July weather, heavy horse and sleek mule, steel-armed knight and frieze-cowled monk, velvet cloak and silken cope, climb- ing the brilliant dusty steeps, filling the pass with the heat and murmur of a mov- ing multitude. The still upland heights were open, rocky, heathy, pasturable, when we reached the plain stone column that marks the limits of a kingdom: just before the last boundary post a beautiful range opened up to reveal beds of snow and crests of carven rock. There the car stopped an instant, the man in corduroy running to the road- side to receive from a goatherd waiting a knotted kerchief full of curds. This he hung on the front of the car, for whey to splash and spatter and yield him in Jaca a goodly lump of cheese. The trontier is at the top but the customs at the bottom: we coasted down to find a pair of the neatest, smallest, civilest Spanish soldiers imaginable, in their sum- HISPANIC NOTES A Pyrenean Village THE WAY mer uniform of white with a grey hair- line, just pulling on clean white cotton gloves in which to examine our luggage. The wonder was how they got so much courtesy into so brief a matter. In the little towns now men wore dpargatas and flat caps; they had lost the candid French look. One hundred years of liberte and egalite have given some meaning to the word fraternite, and when you cross a fron- tier into France you know it in the eyes that meet your own so friendly and frank. The French look says, you are good as I; the Spanish, I am as good as you — usually, better. Of qu ite plain people this is meant. Another river was running beside the road, between the rocks. The landscape was widening, with an indefinably Spanish look in the colours and contours, the brown dust and palisaded cliffs. The impression yields to one of a dusty plain, white with dust, immense within the blue enclosing heights; of an arid heat that intoxicates and blinds; then two lines of river-bordering trees that converge; and lastly, the dusty brown walls of Jaca and towers within them. I, as good as you HISPANIC NOTES 152 WAY OF S. JAMES II HEART OF ARAGON De esta nobleza que es gozar de libertad mas goza el noble Aragon que todos los reinos, porque hasta sus villanosfaze ser mas nobles que los nobles mas nobles de las otras provincias del mundo. Cd nazen tan libres, viven tan francos, son tan esentos los villanos de Aragon I — Fray Guaberto Fabricio. THE city still keeps a kind of state, the houses are built of stone, their facades adorned not merely with monstrous rococo coats-ot-arms but with Romanesque mould- ings and Gothic traceries, not frittered away in glass galleries; the streets straight Muy noble, may leal, y and well paven, the cathedral dominant. vencedora La muy noble, muy leal, y vencedora, Jaca I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY was already great in Roman days, strong in Visigothic; was the last to yield to the Arab conqueror Ayub (as late as 715) and the first to rise and support the struggle of Count Aznar (758-795). Court of the counts of Aragon, and seat and stronghold of the kings their successors, from the first Ramiro down, it holds the type pure, in the figures of the brown small men, the spare swift grace of the women, the strong Romanesque forms of the cathedral. Though the fairs of Jaca in the latter Middle Age drew merchants from Aragon, France, and Navarre, these brought no changes with them; and like the coinage that fixed the standard of the realm, those sueldos jaqueses that kings on their coro- nation swore to maintain undebased, so the temper of the people kept the one image and superscription. How unlike is Aragon to Castile, we were to feel later more strongly, most aware now of the entirely Spanish quality of it all. The boy in alpar galas, with his swift sound- less movements, entering on a message, with bis snowy linen shirt, and velvet jacket 153 Last to yield, first to rise AND MONOGRAPHS 154 WA Y OF S. JAMES El Gracioso worn over one shoulder, with his bold eyes and fine teeth, was just the gradoso of the old comedy. He was all one golden tone, the sunburnt dress, hair, and fine skin, relieved by the shadow on his upper lip and the deeper shadow of his eyelashes. Unhappily, when hired to pose for a photograph, he looked silly enough, but once released, his comment, I make no doubt, was in the antique vein, spiced and seasoned, and sent up in good Castilian. Don Quixote you remember was a Cas- tilian, so indeed were the Cid and Al- fonso the Wise; Jaime I el Conquistador and D. Martin the Humane were of Ara- gon; but the distinction is easier to appre- hend than to make plain. Aragon is more European, Castile more Peninsular; the one presents the ideal Romantic of chivalry and humanism, Mediterranean, almost Frank, almost Latin; the other cherishes the quintessential, the Iberian, condensed, insistent, the self -centered, self -judged, and self-approved. In the kingdom of Aragon alone was HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY there anything of the feudal system, and, from the very beginning of the Reconquest, something in the way of a Parliament, with right of election and recall. The fucros of Jaca in the twelfth century sup- plied a model for those of Castile, Navarre, and elsewhere. The famous haughty for- mula will bear quoting again: "Nos" — the nobles say to their king new-crowned, — "A7 os que valemos tanto como vos y pode- mos mas que vos, os elijimos rcy con tal que gardareis nuestros fueros y libertades, y entre vos y nos uno que manda mas que vos: si no, no!"1 The pride of the nobles gave their vassals liberty, and the need of the king gave the cities rights. King and Cortes are mutually dependent — "For neither the king without the kingdom, nor the kingdom without the king, may severally make a law of the land nor alter that agreed to once, but all united must conjoin in making new laws and providing for the weal and regiment of all: and the more that is done without admix- ture of any force, cautel or deceit, by so much the more is it more estimable, stabler, 155 Fueros AND MONOGRAPHS 156 WAY OF S. JAMES Constitu- tionalism and diviner."2 Thus the Chronicle of Aragon, which breaks out elsewhere, to proclaim in a droll passion of constitution- alism, "that it is greater grandeur and majesty to be king of kings than king of caytiffs, — that those who rule kings are (and all the more those who rule well) like the Aragonese, who may make no law without a common accord and have place and power to say what best to them beseems in respect of the regiment of the realm, that greater king there may not be than the king who rules such kings and lords as the men of Aragon be." Individuality of this metal does not take easily a strange stamp, and there are no foreign traces on the cathedral here. Jaca was the mountain capital when the plain yet lay in power of the Hagarenes. 3 In the eleventh century the bishop of Ar- agon, whose seat was in Jaca, exercised jurisdiction not only over the Chris- tians of the Mountain, but over the Mozdrabes of Huesca. In Saragossa they had their own Bishop and possibly also in Tarrazona. 4 HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 157 Jaca: the Cathedral. There still, although the world autumnal be and pale, Still in their golden ves- ture the old saints prevail; Alone with Christ, deso- late else, left by man- kind. The quality named architectonic, seems alien to the Spanish genius. This appears in many ways, some of them very curious: in excessive formalism in the Spanish Architec- tonics drama, for instance, as if the author could not move himself without the steel and buckram of theatrical convention, and in the interminable assonances which every poetry but the Spanish outgrew some cen- turies earlier; or, again, in the attitudinizing formulae of Berruguete's choir-stalls; but nowhere so much as in the architecture. The average Spanish church has no par- ticular shape, when you look at it. Barring the great cathedrals built by foreign inspira- tion and under foreign direction, they are too often mere lumps. The king's daughter AND MONOGRAPHS I 158 WAY OF S. JAMES lilium inter spinas is all glorious within, but outside she looks like a fat market-wife. Yet as the butter- woman was once a trim milk-maid, Jaca cathedral was a fine sight once. From the cloister garth, amid the rose of Sha- ron, the lilium inter spinas, rusty fir tree, and potted bamboo, you may make out above the built-up cloister face the gable of the transept roof, the low tower to mark the crossing, the bold round-headed win- dows of the aisle, quite blocked now. Then, crossing the beautiful and dim in- terior, you may pass by way of a market square to a glimpse of one remaining side apse with its own noble round-arched window richly moulded, its billet-moulded cornice carried on splendid and fantastic corbels, where the spaces between these, and the under face of the cornice, are carved with foliage, rosettes, and other luxuriant and highly developed forms, all this, however, hidden behind a ten-foot wall overflowing with eglantine and fra- grant leafage. Within, it is wonderfully little spoiled. The stone that turned brown as iron under HISPANIC NOTES light is silent THE WAY 159 the suns of Aragon is a graver grey in the quiet indoor light, almost a silvery in the sculptures of tomb and retable. Enter from the blazing square; the light is cool and grave, the vista lofty and noble. There are cathedrals which have been erected from parish churches; there are others built express which might as well have been that; this is none of them. Not large, it is yet princely. The kingdom of Sobrarbe was founded in the seventh century, and this see in the ninth, but not a stone is earlier than that church of the eleventh (commenced A.D. 1040) where nine Bishops attended a coun- cil and after consecrating the new edifice (*. e., probably apses and transepts) signed a document which survives. This was in 1063. The transepts and apses alone can belong to this date: to the end of that century the enclosing walls, the west door, and the beginning of the western tower: to the close of the twelfth the aisles of the nave: to the fifteenth their rib- vaulting, sexpartite, and the elaborate sexpartite vaults of the nave that, leaving the fabric AND MONOGRAPHS i6o WA Y OF S. JAMES The original church below practically untouched, descend upon consoles to a sort of cornice under the clerestory windows, at about the springing of the original great barrel vault. * Then the eighteenth century overhauled gener- ally. It is easy for the imagination to construct the original Romanesque church, of which the barrel-vaulted transepts give the scale, and the great cruciform piers, that alternate with cylindrical col- umns, suggest the mass: many capitals have lasted on from this, some historied and some of strong stiff leafage, and a bil- let moulding at the springing of the vault and semi-dome. There were four bays to the great nave, and the piers carried just such transverse arches as may still be seen on the four openings of the crossing and against the end walls of the transepts. On them rested the strong barrel vault, windowless, the light coming from the lofty aisles vaulted in a plain quadripartite form, unribbed, for which the alternate columns of the nave sufficed. The eastern end had three parallel apses, the central one very deep; HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 161 it opened directly from the transept, and the central portion of this is covered by an octagonal dome under a low lantern, vaulted on ribs that spring from the centre of each a Spanish builder's of the cardinal sides and from arches thrown across the corners — i. e., squinches. In this same way the vault is turned in the apsidal chapels at Las Huelgas, in the Constable's at Burgos, and under the lantern at Irache, and it is a Spanish builder's way.2 At a time when the builders of Auvergne were opening the first tribunes of their dark naves, and those of Languedoc were turning the first ambulatory around their lofty apses, the king's men here had carried a form, simpler indeed, to a greater perfec- tion. D. Jose Maria Quadradro quotes from a parchment in the cathedral archives, the prescription of Ramiro's foundation: ... Quod ejus tectum fiat et perficiatur de crota lapidea sive boalta per omnes tres naves sive longitudines incipientes ab introitu magne porte usque ad altaria majora que sunt in capite ipsius ecclesie, et una turris supra dictam portam ubi jam incepimus earn hedificare pro cam- AND MONOGRAPHS I 1 62 WAY OF S. JAMES panali cum octo campanis, quatuor magnis et duabus mediocris, et duabus parvis, cum quibus Dominus noster pius Pater excelsus laudari et universus populus evocari possit, cuius tegumen volumus etiam fieri de lapide firmo.3 Then he continues with provisions for eight lamps to burn continually and in- Lights and cense to smoke upward at all hours of incense day and night. This is rather an exercise in rhetoric than a builder's instruction, and the king is more concerned with the bells and lights and incense of his daily worship than with the fabric already going up, but from it we make out the Spanish vaulted type unmodified. In the time of his son Sancho Ramirez the rule of Cluny was introduced into the convent of S. Juan de la Pena and some other royal houses of the north, 4 but there is no evi- dence that builders were fetched during this reform, nor is it likely that the princely bishop of Jaca would have borrowed any from the proud abbot of S. Juan. Rela- tions were strained: at the Council of Jaca the said abbot had affixed his signature I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY before any of the bishops present, and in 1076 the bishop of Jaca, D. Garcia, Infant of Aragon, opposed the undertakings and exemptions of the abbot. 5 The western narthex, below the tower, was already commenced at the dedication: it was three bays in depth and possibly once more than one in breadth, but not pro- bably. The square projection westward is characteristic of Asturian and Visigothic churches, and the narthex at S. Martial of Limoges6 and at S. Benoit-sur- Loire, which might have afforded models of a close- pillared Galilee, were not yet builded, for they both must be referred to the height of the twelfth century. The low chamber here, with storied capitals and tympanum sculptured with the labarum, is elder. The sacred symbol is treated like eight rays or spokes, with roses in between, and flanked by a pair of symbolic and rather oriental lions, the one respecting a fallen man, which signifies that God's judgements are dis- armed by contrition, the other trampling on human heads, in sign of Christ taking empire over death. 163 Bishop and Infant of Aragon God's judge- ments disarmed AND MONOGRAPHS 1 64 WAY OF S. JAMES The south porch The beautiful and airy portico on the south flank, while Romanesque, is of the latest and most perfect period. That side porch is not peculiar to Spanish churches, but it is very common among them. Only a few leagues away, at Tiermas, the parish church has another, just such, except that it is quite formless. Transept portals in purely Spanish building are rare, even when conditions seem to exact them, as at Las Huelgas: instead, you get the opening in the flank. If the two fine portals at Estella may pass as imposed by the fall of the ground, this cannot be urged of S. Vincent at Avila or S. Martin or S. Millan at Segovia. Neither of these last churches has a proper transept, which also is characteristic. There seems to be an elder Romanesque tradition, which appears in France at S. Benoit-sur-Loire, for instance, and Notre-Dame-la-Grande of Poitiers, and S. Seurin of Bordeaux, which explains the early and precious portal of Bordeaux cathedral, and determines the side door in the rather archaic cathedral of Avila. It is this which is invoked to HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 165 explain the symbolism of the wounds of Christ in the five doorways of the church, and the Spanish practice may possibly be determined by the greater glory of His wounded Side. S. Juan de la Pefia. Fundamental ejus in montibus sanctis; gloriosa dicta stint de te. At three o'clock the gracioso called up from the street under Jehane's balcony, and before four we were driving in a purple starlight, that deepened and blanched, along the river Aragon, fringed like all Spanish waters with green linden and plane-trees. A ray shot up and the moun- tains turned to the purple of heather; the Dawn primrose brightness grew and they turned blue; lastly came up a white-hot mass and they were vaporous. By the water-side grew wild iris, and on the other side of the road wild rose and hawthorn. We passed that shrine of Our Lady of Victo- AND MONOGRAPHS I 1 66 WAY OF S.JAMES Escula- bolsas ries which commemorates the wives and daughters who could not stay idle in Jaca while their men made a stand against the Moors. In the white mantles and veils of their sheltered life they made a sudden sally and turned the day and helped the slaughter. x At a grange called Esculabolsas where men were piling logs by the roadside, we waited while two mules were fetched and a guide, and with them a lame dog who looked like a wolf, yellow and elderly; with these we struck up toward the moun- tain through stony lanes almost like the English, along a brookside. Logs were dragging down the brook, each at a horse's heels, and the high bank of the lane was often musical with water-channels and flashing where the runnel spilled over into a terraced field. For a long time a sort of doubtful tower rose ahead. At the very head of this valley stands S. Cruz de la Seros, 2 of the Sisterhood, a convent abandoned when the nuns, feeling it lonesome in the country, moved into town in 1 5 5 2 . The convent has fallen away into ruins, but the church is fairly intact. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Just a minute upstream from the poor little village, it lifts well above the willows and alders of the high bank a series of high and heavy masses. The great tower, crowned by a low octagon and pierced by pairs of windows in the upper stages, stands above the south transept, of which the walls are incorporate with it and from which projects one of the two shallow, square-faced struc- tures thatenclose the lateral apses. Between them the vast central apse, semicircular, di- vided by attached columns, adorned with moulded windows, round-headed and shaft- ed in the jambs, is crowned by a cornice on corbels and a low roof. The face of the east wall is continued up a long way, and roofed by a sort of low pyramid, the church having above the crossing a true lantern, thus disguised on the outside and hidden on the inside by a vaulted bay. Approach- ing from the north, the effect is odd: above and beyond the flat end wall of the transept you see a high square structure sustaining a low broad octagon and behind this again, not much higher, another square, octagon- topped. The tiny nave runs off, absurdly 167 S. Cruz de la Seros AND MONOGRAPHS 1 68 WAY OF S. JAMES Auvergne low. The apse appears in strong profile; and all these square contours, while not structurally so connected, as S. Maria at Tarrasa is really, perhaps, related — yet do a little recall the characteristic architec- ture of Auvergne. That is almost the only hint of the sort, however, here in the heart of Aragon. The nave will have been low always, and at present a n amber of steps lead down into it. The portal looks like Benedictine work of the twelfth century: it is enclosed by a strong billet and adorned by a superb roll moulding, and then by balls disposed at regular intervals in a hollow — an ugly motive too frequent in twelfth century work; which was to be revived with fa- tal enthusiasm by Torquemada and the Catholic kings. Quadrado,3 publishing a sketch that shows ruins now disappeared, copies also three lines of Latin verse about the doorway and a fourth in the cornice: Janua sum praepes: per me transite, fideles. Fons ego sum vitae,' plus me quam vina sitite, THE WAY 169 virgines hoc lemplum quisque penetrare beatum. Corrige te primum, valeas quo poscere Xristum. The low lunette of the tympanum, carved with the chrism and a pair of lions, is copied from that of Jaca, but a daisy or Benedic- sunflower is unexpectedly dropped into tines the space below one of these. Of two shafts on which the great torus de- scends, the right-hand is transitional ; under true volutes you find a sheath curling over a ball (rather than a bud); the left- hand has, also under volutes, a pair of lions and other beasts more Lombard- looking than those above, with the same brutal heaviness as some of the monstrous things at the Seo de Urgell. Benedictine, twelfth century, regional — that is the con- clusion of the whole matter, exception made of the sunflower. Inside, the western gallery rests on one fantastic shaft, which the holy-water stoup encircles. There are three bays ot barrel vault, out of the easternmost of which open the transepts without occupy - AND MONOGRAPHS I 170 WAY OF S. JAMES Exotic traits Anatolian and Provencal ing the whole of it; the apse is preceded by a shallow bay and occupies no more than a third of a circle. That you could never divine the lantern, strongly suggests that it was an exotic idea. The transept arms are cross-ribbed, with a very domical vault; a billet moulding runs along the top of the wall and lunettes fill the space below the vaulting — another suggestive trait. The side apses are of course very shallow, lighted by a single window, now half blocked up, at the central line where the square outer face of the mass is tan- gential to their curve. M. de Lasteyrie says this is frequent in Byzantine architecture. I should have thought it came either from Asia Minor or from Rome. Apses in this form are found in the undated churches on the Anatolian plateau; and, later, in Provence, in the crypt of Montmajour and at Ma- guelonne. Now the bishops of Mague- lonne figure frequently in the ecclesiology of this region, and Bishop Godfrey went along this road when S. Juan de la Pefia was consecrated. HISPANIC NOTES THE WA Y A narrow and steep staircase leads up from the nave, in the thickness of the wall. The lantern consists of a superb vaulted chamber with four ribs, mould- ed, supported on four shafts in the centre of the sides, and deep niches in the corners. The stones of the vault are laid horizontally, like a dome, both here and in the upper chamber of the tower, but not in the transepts below, as they were, for instance, in the domical vaulting of the Old Cathedral of Salamanca. The bases of the shafts are cusped ; three of the capitals are historied and the fourth uses the motive of the pine cone (found at Vezelay and at the Pantheon of S. Isidore at Leon), very rich: in late Roman mysticism, the pine cone stood for immortality. The tower chamber, just referred to, which is reached through this room, is roofed with a sort of dome on squinches: ajimez windows, in the four faces, have three capitals apiece but the shafts have perished and the openings are walled up where they should be. These capitals anticipate Gothic, like one at the door, with volutes 171 somewhat as at Cuenca " topped with a cypress cone " AND MONOGRAPHS 172 WAY OF S.JAMES Toulouse and Provence at the corners and a strong curl below, sometimes a human head. The convent was founded perhaps in 987 or 992 by King Sancho of Navarre and his wife, Urraca Fernandez, who left eighteen villages to the sorores or sisters of S. Cross. The great benefactors were however the family of Ramiro I, who in 1061 recommended it in his will to his daughter. Urraca was professed there and so between 1076 and 1096, were her wid- owed sisters, Sancha, Countess of Toulouse and Teresa, Countess of Provence. The church was built in their day, the transept vaults belonging to a reconstruction not later than the twelfth century. The won- der is, on the whole, that Toulouse and Provence had not even more to say in the matter; but, as observed already, there are as many reminiscences of northern Au- vergne; and the rest are apparently of the nearest cathedral. Briz Martinez, 4 writing the history of S. Juan de la Pena, speaks of this convent as a daughter house, filled with kings' daughters and those of the great nobles and principal persons of the realm, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY and adds that the widowed queens passed their lives there. By a decree of the Council of Toledo, widowed Gothic queens might not marry again, and they either took the veil, or took a house near a convent though not bound to the community life. In the poor little village the parish church keeps a Romanesque apse, arcaded, and one house an ajimez window of late Gothic in an ogee curve, also rude sculptures on the lintel of eagles, bells, sunflowers, and in the centre a cross. About contemporary with this house is a treasure that the nuns left when they moved into town, and that still graces with its tarnished golds and faded reds the deserted church. The Gothic retable, dated 1490, shows on the left side the Annunciation, Epiphany, and Ascension; on the right the Nativity, Resurrection, and Pentecost; in the centre, flanking a niche, four angels; above, Cal- vary and the Dormition of the B. V. M. In the Predella a soi-disant Coronation is really a scene of the Spouse embracing the Beloved, both on one bench, both crowned, with angels making music: this 173 Wife of one husband AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES The road runs up- hill all the way is followed by the Presentation of the B. V. in the Temple, and on the other side of the tabernacle, by the Visitation and Candlemas. The figures of the Old Cove- nant wear octagonal haloes. The drawing everywhere is bad and the scenes quaint rather than powerful, but the time-worn colour is pleasant and this little offshoot of the early school of Aragon would grace a gentleman's collection and doubtless will. Beyond S. Cruz the path, quitting the walnuts of the brook-side, turns up across the great red flank of the Sierra, where crumbling soil is sparsely overgrown with aromatic plants, cistus and juniper and the wild lavender. The lame dog raced ahead, the mules followed the man, and the landscape slowly widened to northward over the white levels of the Aragon until shoulder above shoulder the Pyrenean heights heaved up and snow-wreaths pied their grey. Along a shelf the road was following a gorge and was constructed of loose stones, any size from a man's fist to a man's torso. Rocks bigger than that, the road-menders had cloven into two or three. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Some were of pink marble, others of grey and purple, and the ocherous soil was beset with flowers of Alpine loveliness, hawthorn and wild rose and many unknown: like the rue-anemone, but pink; like the cowslip, but purple; and a white flattish blossom that persisted veiy high. Going up thus among the hills was like going up the map: the northern plants appeared, and we came out at last, on the crown, through thick pine woods into what might have been a clearing in the Adirondacks, where the pines stood more openly in a meadow of tall grass starred with white daisies. There is situated the new convent, red as the mountain side, of little interest, the seventeenth -century church decently kept with a Sunday mass; the range of conven- tional buildings reduced to a single dwelling habitable for the caretakers, shepherds, and who not. We were urged to rest and eat or drink. One asked, by mischance, for the single thing that taxed the woman's kindness, a drink of water. Wine they had and pressed upon us, but the water had been fetched from far, and was not AND MONOGRAPHS 175 with wild flowers and grasses 1 76 WAY OF S.JAMES purple iris and pine fresh, and the mistress must be consulted before the maid would pour a drop. In the dark cool kitchen we watched them preparing the family dinner, with a piece of meat as big as your palm. The mistress arriving with keys and water, we set out for another mile, rather to the ill-content of' all the assistants, to find the ancient church. Through the meadow and down a green valley on the other side filled with wild iris we straggled, and feet were sud- denly stayed as, across the tree-tops and the thick brushwood, we saw a fringe of pines against the sky, a mighty rock, and a little clump of buildings niched under it like a child's playhouse. One Vico went hunting the deer in the great forest, it is said, and followed hard upon a stag till it went over the cliff, and the horse, reined up, hung there on the verge by miraculous intervention till the prince could throw himself off and crawl down over the rough jutting face. At the bot- tom he found the game dead, before a cavern, and a dead hermit within wait- ing for burial, his name written beside HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY him. Vico devoutly thanked the good Baptist who, himself acquainted with wil- dernesses, had stood by him that day, and after burying the hermit assumed his place. Abrother joined him, and to them came from time to time the Christian chieftains ; before them was made a league and a covenant of the fellows and the followers of Pedro Atares: in their sanctuary was founded, it may be, the kingdom of Sobrarbe, which was to bring forth the kingdom of Aragon. What Covadonga is in the west, that in the east is S. Juan de la Pena, and the vener- able church is a place of pilgrimage still, sanctified not only by bones of martyrs, but by dust of kings. It is still, in spite of all, homely and lonely, a hermitage and no more. A mighty abbey rose, and fell apart again, and the shrine under the rock abides. In the entrance court the tombs of powerful feudatories were adorned seven hundred years ago with such patterns, of panther and griffin, as cheap workmen at Jeypore enamel in brass for the tourist to-day. The low little church, without aisles, barrel- 177 Bones of martyrs and dust of kings AND MONOGRAPHS 178 WAY OF S. JAMES La Pefia vaulted, is of no particular style or age, it is mere building, no more. About the twelfth-century cloister, which disdains a vault, for the hugeous rock overhangs it, are set the chapels that devout ages have shapen; one of lovely late Gothic, the arch cusped within and crocketed above; another in the stately beauty of the late Renaissance, with column and cornice, pediment and orb; and the cloister itself barbarously carven with Scripture history after a fashion strictly its own. S. Juan de la Pena is building of the same sort as S. Cruz, modified in part, first, by survivals of the earlier hermitage, secondly by directly oriental motives, thirdly by its remote inaccessibility, its neighborhood to Jaca, and the presence probably of a body of workmen continuously engaged about the great abbey, who would gradu- ally create a style of their own, — that is to say by a chanticr. This I have thought to recognize elsewhere, sometimes. It re- mained an hermitage, occupied by anchor- ites, till the time of Sancho Garces I, who organized them as monks cenobite, with an HISPANIC NOTES S. James and Pilgrim, from S. Cernin, Pamplona THE WAY abbot under the rule of S. Benedict. s At the end of the tenth century the Abbot Paterno, or, according to some, Garcia, called from France by Sancho el Mayor, introduced the discipline of Cluny; the monastery, however, was never subject to Cluny, and was in some measure under the authority of the Bishop. When Abbot Garcia died the king called a Mozarabic hermit, S. Inigo, 6 from his cave in the mountains of Jaca. The dignity of the abbot began humbly, but came to be magistral, or equal to episcopal, and could once compete with the greatest in Spain. He was a great lord not only in the church but in the king- dom. Sixty-five monasteries depended on his, and these not only priories but lesser abbeys as well. There were likewise num- bered a hundred and twenty-six secular churches, among them S. Pedro la Rua of Estella, of which the prior was a professed monk of S. Juan. The tombs in the atrium, while mostly of the thirteenth century, have among them dates like 1089, 1091, 1 123. In the cloister, one dated 983 can hardly be original: here 181 The history HISPANIC NOTES 182 WAY OF S. JAMES The aspect Horseshoe arches too the inscriptions commemorate abbots mainly of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Sancho Ramirez, we know, rebuilt the monastery and church in the end of the eleventh century; in 1094 Peter I left the siege of Huesca to attend the consecration and, among others, went to it, as said, Bishop Godfrey of Maguelonne. The body of the little church, as you come upon it descending the glen, looks like no more than a transept, with high, formless wall on either side, enclosing, northward, the atrium and whatever remains of monas- tic building, and southward the cloister and its chapels ; the whole niched under the vast rock and smothered in boskage. The tiny shrine is roofed with a simple barrel vault and ends at the east in a wide sanctuary cut off by three semicircular arches. This is primitive arrangement, Asturian and Mozarabic. There is little to see; rebuildings and repairs have added nothing new but have left nothing marked. The crypt below, however, is divided down the centre by a row of piers on which rest true horseshoe arches, and the door which HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 183 opens from the church upon the cloister is of horseshoe form, and of masonry different from the wall around. These are rem- nants of the original cenobium founded in the ninth century by Sancho Garces. On the other hand, the cloister was not finished until the twelfth. It lies there, four square, without a vault and without a garden. Of the arcade, two Rock- sides are still quite perfect, one has per- roofed and ished completely and been built up with simple brick piers and arches, and into the fourth, that next the church, have been built a couple of capitals quite different in style and half a century later. One of these shows a tangle of creepers and crea- tures, and the other, griffins carrying off sheep. These are in the same style as the capitals of S. Domingo de Silos, but cer- tainly not by the same hand as that, nor ancient in yet as those at Estella, sometimes referred the sun to the work at Silos. The themes are worth recording; they run as follows: i . On the farthest corner begins a Scrip- ture history with the Creation of Adam, AND MONOGRAPHS I 1 84 WAY OF S. JAMES Capitals and Adam and Eve. These corners, with four shafts clustered against the outer faces of a pier, are very fine; of the rest, the shafts are sometimes double, some- times single, under a large capital. The history goes on: 2. The serpent tempting, Adam and Eve abashed, God rebuking them. Adam ploughs with two horses, like the men on the mountain below, while Eve spins. The sacrifice of Cain and Abel. 3. The Annunciation, Visitation, Na- tivity, Announcement to the Shepherds. 4. Angelic warning to Joseph in slumber. Flight into Egypt. Joseph carries scrip and cloak over his shoulder, people look out above an arched gate- way not in the form of a horseshoe but one very familiar throughout Spain, in which the abacus projects and the circular arch is set back as far as the line of the jambs below. 5. Epiphany; the Three Kings; Her- od's soldiers; doctors pointing out places on the scroll they are consulting. 6. Ruined: there was a castle with a king sitting in it: probably the Massacre of the Innocents. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 185 7. Two kings: — for the rest, ruinous. 8. The Three Kings riding away. 9. Presentation. 10. Temptation. ii and corner: Two scenes of boats; . Christ walking on the water. The next, the north side, bears on the corner: i. The Miracle of Cana. 2. Christ and his disciples with Wayfaring staves, in talk, Mary entreating them. theme 3. The raising of Lazarus and the feast in the house of Simon. 4. Entry into Jerusalem, with the foal of the ass, Zacchaeus in the tree, and the gate of Salem. 5. The Last Supper, Washing of feet. 6. Betrayal : the Jews in high caps. Then a corner, quite different: four saintly figures within scroll work, and on the other face, Christ in a mandorla between four angels with scrolls, whose wings meet and form the edge. Of course restorers have been here, but they were restricted. One may conjecture that the Old Testament series once filled one of the sides now destroyed, and the AND MONOGRAPHS 1 i86 WAY OF S.JAMES Character- istics Death and Resurrection of Christ, with possibly a suggestion of the Last Judg ment, the other. The work is curious, excessively barbar- ous, and quite individual. I am tempted to associate it with the more archaic portions of the other great work at Estella, the portico of S. Miguel, but only after a long interval. Here at S. Juan the modelling is done at times with little more than incised lines; the hands as well as the heads are too large for the figure, hair and beard are indicated by curving parallel lines. The high cheekbone is emphasized by a special line, and the eyes, in Scriptural phrase, "bung out," the socket deeply hollowed and the eyelid and pupil carefully worked on the bulging feature. In spite of all this, the scenes have not only dignity but feeling. These, it is tempting to associate with the early Lombard sculptures, at Cremona and elsewhere. 7 There is likeness to the Ferrara figures on the door jambs, where Master Nicholas worked. It would be possible, of course, that the messengers HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY constantly going and coming between this powerful monastery and Rome, should have fetched a master workman as they returned through Lombardy. The relation was close. In the great struggle to suppress the Moz- arabic use, that is to say the Hispanic, S. Juan played a great part. "The Roman use was introduced into Spain," says Sandoval, 8 "from S. Juan de la Pefia, in March on S. Benedict's Day, era 1071 [that is, 1033 A.D.], the Roman legate fixing himself there." It is, indeed, more likely, on the whole, that the model should have come from Italy than that the lonely mountain abbey, where all the architecture, while sound and strong, is of the simplest and of the region, should have supplied masters to Lombardy and the Emilia. A chantier once established — and we have the opinion of Sr. Lamperez that the convent and its dependencies were building steadily from the middle of the eleventh to the middle of the twelfth century — the style would develop with little modification other than refinement and growing power to express beauty on the one hand, and a I87 of the chantier AND MONOGRAPHS 188 WAY OF S. JAMES Silos constant approach to nature on the other. We may, provisionally, discuss this style as if it commenced where we find it first, at S. Juan. The two capitals compared with those of S. Domingo de Silos must be treated apart. They are probably from another and a later cloister, the sole remains of it. The work is ruder and less lovely than that at Silos: for instance the locks of hair curled at the tip on the griffins' back are more summary, less oriental and exquisite than the lions' manes at Silos. There is a capital at S. Eutropius of Saintes, of birds pecking at monsters, which, though with- out entrelacs, is identical in the forms of the birds, and uses precisely the same detail to express respectively the long quills of the wing and the short feathers of the body and tail. The capitals of Aulnay are of the same sort: now the church of Aulnay (1135) lay on the pilgrim Road and S. Eu- tropius of Saintes (consecrated 1096) was one of the great shrines for veneration. These capitals could have been, at best, oriental only at second or third remove, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY but the tombs of the ricos-ombres in the outer court have devices directly borrowed from the East. The tombs are mere semi- circular pigeonholes in the bounding wall, hollowed to hold a few bones or a handful of dust; the arch of the upper range deco- rated with a chequer or billet, that of the lower with the hollow and ball that ap- peared at S. Cruz. Within this lunette a central disc is adorned with arms, or an elaborate cross, the chrism, a griffin en- closed by a twist, a lion or panther in a border decorated with eight spindles: these came directly from the East, and the daisy dropped at S. Cruz came with them. Here, then, in and near Jaca, we have a strong Romanesque style of building that appears as nearly as possible autocthonous, and a type of decoration that goes with it, developed in part, probably, from the Roman and, in part at least, drawn from the general stock-in-trade of Romanesque builders. In Jaca cathedral there is little else. At S. Cruz there is a hint of French masonry and an Eastern decorative motive. At S. Juan, superimposed upon the Spanish 189 Traits oriental and regional AND MONOGRAPHS 190 WAY OF S. JAMES French Italian Returning building and possibly later than the Eastern trinkets, persist the remnants, scanty but sufficient, of work done in the manner of Aulnay and Saintes. I should add that the carving of the abaci through- out the cloister has the direct and vigorous forms of the French work cited, and not the more flowing and luxurious grace of those at S. Domingo. Finally, something Italian-seeming must be admitted. The good woman jingled her keys, the guide expected us to remember that he had not breakfasted; we left the ancient walls, where decay has been just decently arrested, to their proper quietude and, recrossing the brook and climbing again the steep path through thickets, sat down in the convent orchard to eat the luncheon we had fetched and go to sleep, face down in the grass, thereafter. When we awoke it was not much past noon, a storm-cloud was pouring over the farther mountain range, and the guide consented to start for home instead of waiting, as stipulated, till four o'clock. The kindness nearly cost him an apoplexy. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY The heat was superb. There is no other word for that air of the Spanish noontide which is like brandy in your blood: dry, white, thrice distilled, you draw it in like a perfume, you absorb it like an intoxi- cant. The mules, after their kind, walked among rolling stones on the extreme outer edge of the mountain side; the tree-tops danced below. The Pyrenees were vapor- ous. The intervening air boiled as above hot metal. The lame dog who looked like a wolf raced ahead, dug himself a cave under the shady side of some brow or knoll ot clay and lay in the cooler redder earth till we had gone well past, then dashed ahead again. After we repassed S. Cruz we found the horses again stepping and stumbling down the brook, each with a log banging at his heels: noonday rest was over. By the grange men were piling logs again: we drove back to Jaca in the dust that choked like soot and arrived in time for tea and a long sleep before the long dinner and the walk thereafter to a bit of park along the water-side. 191 the tides of the day changed AND MONOGRAPHS 1 92 WAY OF S. JAMES Alfonso el Batallador, While kings of eternal evil Yet darken the hills about, Thy part is, with broken sabre. To rise on the last redoubt; To fear not sensible failure, Nor covert the game at all, But fighting, fighting, fighting, Die, driven against the wall ! Garcia Iniguez was ruling his kingdom of Sobrarbe when he took Pampeluna from the infidel. The county of Aragon lay between the two streams called by that name; one comes down from Canfranc and the Pyrenees, and runs on one side of Jaca; the other comes down from the Port of Hecha. The first count, D. Aznar, of Vive con great lineage, was serving under D. Garcia noble oscidia , . . at the siege of Pampeluna and was sent by him with some companies of men of that country to the city of Jaca. The Moors were not expecting attack and it fell as soon as Pampeluna, in the year 759. Others say that he came in from France with his vassals and took it, and then Garcia, pleased with his valour and nobil- I H IS PAN 1C NOTES THE WAY ity, gave him the title of Count of Aragon. Jaca is a city on the slope of the Pyrenees, in antiquity inferior to none in Spain. It was muy ventures a, more than any other in Spain. As it was the port and entry of France, the next year four kings and an immense army came up from Navarre and Sanguesa to retake it. Thanks to the women, they did not. The fuero of Jaca was probably given by Gelindo Aznar, the second count of Aragon: so given, because the Goths had prohibited the imperial (i.e., the Roman) code. Sancho Ramirez in 1073 did not change this in any wise: he kept the Gothic code, he did not impose the imperial: he owned no lord in the world but the Roman pontiff. That last clause will bear discounting — it was written by an ecclesiastic in the seven- teenth century.1 Actually, belike, the Roman pontiff got what was left after the Lion's share had been measured. Alfonso Sanchez, his son, the second Alfonso, who was to be known as el Batalla- dor, the lord of battles, was born at Hecha, in the mountains. There the lords of 193 Jaca ancient and muy ventu- rosa AND MONOGRAPHS 194 WAY OF S. JAMES The Happy Warrior . . . Parts muy principal Aragon held always royal hunting lodges, and kings had their sons brought up there because the cold clear air, on the very peak of the Pyrenees, made them strong, robust, and soldierly. At the age of seven years, or possibly of ten, he was put in charge of a monk at S. Juan de la Pena; the abbot named for his tutor D. Galindo de Arbas, prior of S. Salvador de Puyo, who took Alfonso with him and taught him grammar and the other humanities. This the king recalls in a privilege dated 1108. He was to be, always, a great gentleman and a great soldier. He was crowned at Huesca, and on the same day a Grand Rabbi of the Jews there, was converted and baptised, the king standing god- father; in 1 1 06 he stood godfather to a greater convert, that Petrus Alfonsus who composed the Disciplina Clericalis. As his name reveals, he was born to be the Happy Warrior. Mariana calls him a great captain in soul, of valour and forti- tude unparalleled, the glory and honour of Spain. He shared all his winnings with God; he was generous, pious after his kind, HI.S PANIC NOTES THE WAY and strong as his Pyrenean rocks. To the brother whom he succeeded, and to the brother who succeeded him, he was staunch and generous, giving all the service that they asked: fortunately, this lay in the line of right conduct, and their careers, if not unshadowed by personal grief and regret, by too early death, and a vocation re- nounced, yet never ran counter to the glory of religion and of Spain. To hold up Spain with a strong clasp, and to put the fear of God into the Moors, was D. Alfonso's concern: God gave power to his arm, and strength to his party. In the unhappy matter of his marriage with Dona Urraca, he seems to have acted like a gentleman and a king, never letting per- sonal relations override political. The heiress of Galicia, Leon, and Castile, part- ly in her own right, partly in transmit- ting that right to an infant son, Dona Urraca had the same virile strength as Queen Blanche and Queen Berengaria in the next century; but she had not their austerities. Since she allowed herself the same liberties as a man, it is small wonder 195 de las glorias de Espafla . . so, F16rez AND MONOGRAPHS 196 WAY OF S.JAMES Arch- bishop Roderick that her husband treated her with the same directness as a man. In the west her matrimonial difficulties were made the excuse for faction and rebellion: in the east, his matrimonial connexions gave a good ground for conquest and annexation. In the Historic, Compostellana D. Alfonso is painted with horns and hoofs; in the Chronicle of S. Juan de la Pena, Dona Urraca is a scarlet woman. Roderick of Toledo, who must have known some who had known him, has only good to say, calling him in the Chronicle in Romance "a very Catholic prince, a constant benefactor of the religious, who lived always in a fervid zeal to increase the faith of Jesus Christ and continue war against the infidel." No other king of Spain had conquered so many lands from the Moors, nor entered so many times in battle with them, and always triumphed. He took Valencia; he took Saragossa, esteemed im- pregnable since Charlemagne's vain exploit and tragical retreat. His brilliant raid into the south did, probably, all that he expected and more. We know, through the re- HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY luctant admissions of Ibn-ag-Cairafi of Granada, how the Christians called him down with the offer of twelve thousand warriors to help him, and among their names not one a boy's or an old man's. a Coming in September ot 1125, he spent a year and six months harrying the fairest lands of the Hagarenes, along the east coast and throughout the south. His expedition supplied a kind of counterpart, a revanche, for that of Almanzor, in the north, a century and a half before. Queen Urraca had just died, in childing of a bastard, say some chroniclers, but she was to have her revenge of the husband she had so hated. It may be that the poison she brewed for him had done some work, had touched some cell in the brain or twisted some fibre. A curious unexplained incident recorded near Malaga is just tinged with the fantasticality that passes over into fatality. "He had a little boat built," says the Arab, "and caught fish which he ate." It seems to come straight out of the Third Calendar's tale in the Arabian Nights. Was it done for a vow, 197 The Arabs Fatality AND MONOGRAPHS 198 WAY OF S.JAMES Roman galleys on coins already or, as his enemy prompts, to be talked of afterwards? His wit and judgement had not failed: when they were passing the defiles of the river Salobrena he glanced up at the cliffs and said to one of his knights (a sheik of the country heard and reported) : "What a tomb, if anyone above threw down sand on us! " After conquering Saragossa, Tarragona, Calatayud, and Daroca, and generally speaking all beyond Ebro, he turned to- ward the confines o£ Catalonia. He took Alcobia and laid siege to Lerida, coming down the Ebro in galleys: for the Ebro used to be navigable, in Vespasian's day boats went as far as to Logrono; in the fifteenth century, they could still get up to Pampeluna. Lerida did not fall, and he threw himself into Mequineza; then in August of 1133, leaving that high-towered castle in good hands, he came out and attacked Fraga. Winter came, with great cold and excessive rain: he had to send the army home, every man to winter in his own house. Again he tried the siege in February and in April. Then Valencia HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY was lost. Battle was joined on July i7th, and the king was killed. The Black Book of Santiago says, under the feast of SS. Justa and Rufina: "Era 1172 fuit inter- fectio Christianorum in Fraga." Com- postella would be glad, for Galicia had, on the whole, backed Urraca, or at any rate regarded the recurrent difficulties with her like quarrels in the family. The great archbishop, out there, was dying like an old lion among jackals: the news must have struck on his heart. "But indeed," old Briz Martinez says,3 "when he died it was as when a tree falls, any man can hack at it, however once prized." He had lived too long, and his star had over- watched the ascendant by an hour. That is the life of many men ; perhaps, if truth were known, of all except the early dead. The wheel of fortune that turns so slowly and never stops turning, that brings a man to the topmost pitch, will swing him down again unless Death cuts him loose. The Happy Warrior is he full-armed and dead in the morning of battle. Men never found Alfonso's body, or his royal arms or a sure 199 When D. Alfonso died AND MONOGRAPHS 2OO WAY OF S.JAMES Coronica General cap. 966, f. 261 v. Some say he lived on as pilgrim sign of him: and there is another story of his end which belongs to S. Juan de la Pena. Hither at the last, in September weather, had come cl Batallador from the defeat at Fraga, to die. He had conquered Sara- gossa and Tudela and Bayonne, he had helped the Cid at Valencia; for thirty years he had been winning, and had taken many cities, and now the tide had turned. He got off his horse and went to his bed. On the morning of the seventh he bade close all the doors of the monastery, and so he died. What was the thought in all that bolting and barring before the end? Not against powers of this world, one fancies, but against elemental, and the powers of the rock and the air, and the prince of the powers of the air. Or was it the desperate determination not to die, to imprison still the escaping soul, and catch and cage it yet? By his will the kingdom was to be shared among ghostly warriors who were trained men-of-arms, knightly monks, who could count on having God behind them, the Order of the Temple, of S. John of Jeru- salem, of the Holy Sepulchre. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY So passed the grand fighter, but the memory of him stirs and wakes at times in Spain. Of such great figures of the Middle Age as this Alfonso, and Dona Urraca his spouse, Ferdinand the Saint, and Diego Gelmirez the prelate who so nearly was another pope, I can evoke only a cloudy and fleeting image, a flitting shape, a shadow on running water. But of their presence is ever aware the pilgrim in Spain. There is an ancient legend, told in many lands, of a traveller falling asleep in a plain or a valley or on a hillside where once was fought a battle: how in the night under the sailing moon he hears faint tramplings, the neighing of horses and trumpets blown, steel clanging, and heavy bodies falling, or he sees at such times the pale wraiths clash and strive and lose at the last all soundlessly. And when the sun is up again, the dew hangs strung on gossamers, in her quivering spires the lark trills, the tall seeded grasses wave in the freshening wind, yet unf alien. 201 Shadows of smoke on running water AND MONOGRAPHS 2O2 WAY OF S.JAMES III THE BATHS OF TIERMAS D'ailleurs, voyage t'on en Espagne ? Au fond on y fait plutot des pelerin- ages. — G6mez Carrillo. AT Jaca we watched the young nobility of Spain training boy scouts: we paced the grey flagged streets between the grey stone houses: we sat in the cathedral, early and late, but, though cool and grey, it is not so good as some for sitting in. The Core takes up too much room. All the cen- turies have bedecked and bedraped it, not so ill neither, and it is a comely, friendly, experienced place, not moving or edifying. At the last we climbed a ladder and sat down on the top of another yellow motor- omnibus bound for Tiermas. The road, tree-planted, follows the river I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY westward, all the way. The cities sit up on hills; you see them from far, and pass them, and see them far. Berdun, which is one of these, boasts a great church dedi- cated to S. Eulalia, but Aymery Picaud knows nothing of it, nor do I. The wide white plain is bounded by blue mountains that hardly change; the vast blue sky is strewn with white piles of cloud that sail and sail; the car climbs hills at full speed and swings around curves like a boy's sling, and you know that if it skidded you would be slung into the next kingdom like a boy's stone. When a shower passed over we pulled a rug over our two heads : the car sped through it and into blue again. In one place an old man in a wide hat was raking up and turning in the sun a square yard of daisy heads, curing them for I know not what tisane. Elsewhere two old men went down a road dangling empty wine flasks, their white shirt sleeves, their alpargatas and white socks and long black stockings, their broad black sashes and velvet vests, the dress of Aragon. The Sierra on the south approached, the river Set on a hill AND MONOGRAPHS 204 WAY OF S.JAMES thermae bed on the north widened; its sandy banks between the shallow pools were not more arid than the land on either side, just diversified with purple pebbly rock and grey aromatic shrubs, rosemary, juniper and cistus. The great back of a hill lifted a few grey houses against the windy blue, and around the curve of it we drew up at the Baths of Tiermas. These thermae the Romans knew, and bequeathed a name and an old red porphyry tank, no more. The charm of Tiermas is older than they, is old as the elements. The landscape is like that of the Sistine Creation of Adam, but the ringing sky and the clear wind are older even than the rocks and marl, are ageless and immortal. It is hard to tell another what we found in Tiermas to like it so. Not, surely, the sulphuretted hydrogen of the waters, which flavoured the drinking and the cooking. The very pillows and table-napkins tasted thereof. The inn at Jaca bad been excel- lent after its kind, and that a kind which while entirely Peninsular was for goodness HISPANIC NOTES The Old THE WAY 205 almost European: we liked it well enough. I dare say if we had stayed, in Tiermas, at the new large hotel across the tiny square, we should have been merely bored and impatient with the wide shady hall and wicker furniture, with the private chapel for the convenience of priests stopping at the house, and the upper gallery, yet more private, therein, for the reserve of great ladies; with the airy dining room and its conventional little tables and conven- tional long meals. But after reading the tariff painted up on a board in plain view we crossed over to the Old Inn. They took us up, past the steaming stone tanks of the basement where you sat to soak in the very troughs of a thousand years ago, down long whitewashed corridors that re- called the Springs of the last century in Virginia, into a pair of huge bare rooms, scrubbed and empty and airy. You saw outside the windows a clean sky piled with white clouds, and the vast heave of a hill where a thread of road crept and wound and men and donkeys crawled up at nightfall to the ancient town and trotted AND MONOGRAPHS 2O6 WAY OF S.JAMES Why we liked it down in the early day; and all night a few lights pricked through there like low- swung stars; and you heard a tree below in a courtyard, rustling softly. We ate plain meals, but well-tasting, at a long table with casual men travelling, like otirselves, modestly; and with the housekeeper and the bookkeeper, who, not thinking themselves too good to sit down there, maintained decorum and interest in the talk. Provision was made, in the explicit tariff posted in every room, for travellers yet more modest, who brought their own provisions and had the use of a kitchen granted. The card also enumer- ated the meals to which pension entitled one: a good early breakfast, or, if one was not used to that, then a substantial meri- enda (in American, "snack") at ten o'clock; almuerzo, as big as a dinner, at one; at five chocolate with azucarillos and a glass of water; dinner about nine; and I believe a snack at bed-time, which occurred some- where after midnight, but we never waited up for it. It could not have been the friendly insistence on chocolate the instant HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY of our arrival, the cold water and the azucarillos, so delicious when we were dusty and faint. Perhaps it was the space within doors and without, that we so loved, or the wind that blew out of the clean spaces of the sky. There never was anything like this wind, not even that which blows on a hot day after strong rain. There we rested : I remember that I read the whole of The Golden Ass in old Ed- wardes's version, where the quaintness decently disguises the indecency, in the long afternoons, in the big silent room. We sat on the sun-warmed rocks by the roadside in cool twilights that evoked all the aromatic scents, making friends with a pair of silly brown sheep that regularly forgot us over -night; looking over at Mon- real, away down stream, situate on such another hill, brown against the blue moun- tain. One morning we climbed to the ancient city above us, to find no more than the ground plan of a castle that a king's and a cardinal's jealousy had ruined; and the shapeless form of a church that Jesuits' 207 The wind of the world AND MONOGRAPHS 208 WAY OF S.JAMES A prophet's chamber piety later had erected and deformed with a baroque altar-piece. Considering the date and the general formlessness of the brick agglomeration, it was curious to see, notwithstanding, all the members of Jaca cathedral here: the open southern porch, the western tower, the shallow transepts and low square above the crossing; only here the apse is square-ended like the other termi- nations. Above the church porch, reached by a fine flight of steps, is a little apart- ment, inhabited. I have seen the same at S. Ciprian in Segovia, and at Fornells on the Catalonian frontier. Of the deliberate desolation of the town in the sixteenth century I spoke too hastily: one of the town gates does survive, built into a house, and through it the winds blow. In the view the Sierra de Leyre rises grandly, wooded chiefly with scrub-oak up the side and topped for uncounted miles by pali- sades like those along the Hudson. Another day we pushed up into this sierra in search of the venerable abbey of S. Salvador de Leyre, motoring for about an hour along the highway to Yesa, there HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY taking a couple of donkeys and old women and at the church dismissing them with half a notion of walking home across country. But we did not risk it, for that the way dipped down at least twice out of sight of landmarks, we could clearly per- ceive, and that the land was cut up with sheep tracks and the little foot-ways by which each man goes in the morning to work his own patch of mountain ground, the long plough lashed upon the donkey's back, and comes home at night with a stack of green fodder piled above it. Therefore we walked back as we had come, to Yesa, over stony land like mons- trous pudding-stone, and disputed the way with a brook or two, and soaking springs. Awaiting the motor, we made friends with the men, who hardly at all mistrusted us; the women who gossiped, an hour at a time, with a water-pail like a churn borne easily on the head; the children who were dressed like old women and like them covered the hair, tying a kerchief under the chin. We saw trains of mules go through, and again loaded waggons, three or four 209 . . . And to bis labour until the evening AND MONOGRAPHS 2IO WAY OF S.JAMES together, and everything stopping at the toll house to pay according to its value. We sketched, I recall, an old wrought iron knocker, on a street door. The church had no interest to offer, in whitewashed nave or blunt tower. Not one house in the village possessed a pane of glass: wooden shutters closed the windows at need. Protective colouring These brown Spanish towns have the same trait as some birds and insects and even furry things, of protective colouring. Without contour or colour to distinguish them, they disappear into the landscape at even a little distance. Men were building that year a road for automobiles to go up to S. Salvador, so for those who read this there will be no more of grey donkeys and stony tracks. Leyre. Heureux qui voyage On y prend passage En ces lieux benis: Pour le Paradis. — Hymn of Lourdes. Many pilgrims must have visited the abbey, for it is very venerable and lies I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY only a few miles above the ancient track, yet none brought such gifts as they left in towns along the Way. In Navarre it lies, just over the frontier, but I find it called in old histories court and heart of the realm. At times it was the seat of the diocese now named of Pampeluna, and for long it held a right that the bishop should be selected from thence. It lasted for at least a thousand years; S. Eulogius visited it in 851, and it was not burned till 1835. The wealth was unspoiled until after the seventeenth century. The range of the eighteenth-century monastery, roofless and empty-windowed, dominates the plain front of the church for a long way up the road. A donation signed in 908 still exists, but the foundation is older, for f nigo Arista we know restored it, and the present crypt, I am pretty sure, belongs to his restoration and therefore to the ninth century. Benedictines had been fetched to it, from Cluny, before 1022. In 1090 Sancho Ramirez conceded to it the exemp- tions of Cluny: he had then probably commenced the upper church, for under 211 A thousand years but as yesterday AND MONOGRAPHS 212 WAY OF S.JAMES The Bishop of Com- postella the reign and in the presence of Pedro Sanchez his son, Peter I, the consecration took place in 1098. * Present likewise was Bishop Diego of Santiago, his own church being well under way and the decoration in the hands of workmen of the same school. The work at Compostella is very different in quality from any here, that is to say, in beauty absolute; it is less archaic than some on this portal and purer and earlier than the rest. A chance such as this for the student to make comparison is precious as rare. The church then consecrated must have consisted of three apses, circular, and quite plain without; and then two bays of barrel vaulting, the aisles excessively high and narrow. On the western face of the last pier are attached shafts, their capitals in the same style, as if in preparation for continuing a nave that was never to be built. Possibly this eleventh -century build- ing had actually a nave, later to be pulled down: possibly the western door was com- menced early and duly reared but the junction with the choir never effected. 213 Archaic THE WAY In 1230 the Cistercians were introduced: "because of abuses," says a historian. Benedictines dislodged them from 1270 to 1273 only, then they returned for good, and some time thereafter built the present . Poitevin nave of a single great span. In style the building, says Sr. Lamperez, 2 is Poitevin of the most archaic, and it belongs to the eleventh century; the Cistercians length- ened, raised and vaulted it. This great span excels as a wonder that which at Gerona Guillermo Boffy planned in 1416, and precedes it by a generation if not two. The vaults are of the fourteenth century indisputably, and should be compared with those of the church of Ujue in Navarre. The portal as it stands was put together, largely out of earlier material, in the four- teenth century. The grotesques, which cer- tainly are not earlier than that, are curi- ously crude, not so much barbarous as pue- rile. Like S. Juan de la Pena, S. Salvador lay out of the world, out of the main stream, and there is danger of dating every- thing too early and mistaking archaism for age. AND MONOGRAPHS 214 WAY OF S.JAMES School of Toulouse It is impossible, for instance, to admit that the figures in the tympanum belong to Carolingian times, that is to say, to Ifiigo Arista's building. They are of the school of Toulouse, and they are provincial imita- tions of work accepted and mature. We have no dated work in Toulouse earlier than S. Sernin, consecrated 1098. The fig- ures of Christ and the angels built into the choir enclosure there, show how that art began: these at Leyre show how it could end. Similarly in the crypt the capitals are quite literally barbaric, carved chiefly with parallel grooves and spirals that may be intended to imitate the Ionic volute but curve the wrong way. Madrazo gives some drawings of these.3 In France, I think the capitals cited by Courajod4 without a date in some remote Breton churches, may be of the same kind; and those of the ninth century at Cruas, in the Ardeche, though better, suggest them. The division into nave and aisles, in the lower church, is further complicated by a row of shafts and arches carried midway HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 215 down the nave and even through the apse of it; and another transverse row, which makes four bays in all from east to west. Owing to the fall of the ground, the apses of the crypt open well into the light, as at S. Martin de Unx, in Navarre, at Saintes and Auxerre in France and in so many other early Romanesque churches. The low arches, stilted, carry a barrel vault, and inside the arch of the main apse are cylindrical shafts of which the capital is merely a larger cylinder incised with a few lines. In the early part of the upper church the capitals, while primitive, do not lack grace. The arch of the aisles is very stilted and at the entrance to the apses stood a shaft under the arch; this was cut away at some period to accommodate retables now perished but luckily the capitals were left. The barrel vault of the aisles is much higher than the nave arcade, a curious trait which may be associated with the same relative lowness of the arches between nave and aisles in such pre-Romanesque churches as S.Juan de Banos and 5. Salvador de Val-de- and AND MONOGRAPHS 216 WAY OF S.JAMES French instances Dios. At any rate, some account must be made out for it, considering the uncommon height, normally, of the nave arcade in those churches of Poitou which S. Salva- dor most recalls. The interior, if the nave as planned originally was ever done, would have looked like those of Chauvigny and S. Savin, or S. Hilaire of Poitiers which cer- tainly was, after a fashion, completed, with the same exceeding height and exceed- ing narrowness, and with a timber roof, by the end of the eleventh century. s The great difference between the French churches and this lies in their acceptance of the ambulatory chapels: but the S. Hilaire consecrated in 1049 had a great apse and two small ones eastward of the transept, and the present arrangement be- longs to a reconstruction in the twelfth century when the edifice was vaulted by an architect who seems accountable for the present absurd arrangement in the nave, as well as for an ambulatory with four chapels. The piers there are cruciform, a three- quarter column on each face, so also at Chauvigny, which lies on a frequented HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY road. Half way between there and Poi- tiers, S. Julian had a shrine. There was a straight way for builders to come, sum- moned or on the tramp. The nave, only two steps lower than the older part, consists of three bays of fine ribbed vaulting and one, narrow and a trifle taller, at the western end. Like the Poite- vin churches of a single nave, it has strong round lateral arches against the wall, and on the south, in the first bay, another great round arch, higher, that springs from about the springing of the present vault. In that same bay, on the north wall, is a good late- pointed window of two lights, cusped, under a cusped triangle, and this bay ends, on each side, with a shaft against a pilaster, as if there had been an intention while the walls were going up to continue the eastern part. In the next two bays a round- headed window comes just under the la- teral arch on the south side, having one shaft in the jambs and beautiful fantastic capitals, one of birds with their necks interlaced. A similar transitional window in the west wall has, however, early Gothic 21 Nave AND MONOGRAPHS 218 WAY OF S.JAMES A long day capitals. In the south wall a very beautiful little door that opens into a chapel led once to the cloister: the head of the round arch is strongly moulded, the tympanum carved on the outer face with the labarum in low relief; the capitals of the three shafts in each jamb are adorned with plant forms stylized without loss of feeling for the pine- tassel and cone, the young shoots of the vine, and others. Of the portal I am entitled to speak in some detail, as to iconography and style both, for I spent the best part of a day in watching it. At the convenience of the motor omnibus we had set out in the sun- rise and were to return at dusk. We had inspected the church exhaustively, and the crypt and the capitals and the mouldings and the vaults. We had raised and laid again all the probabilities of date and provenance, and photographed everything accessible. Jehane has a nice sense for the look of a century, which she educated long ago at the Museum of the Trocadero; her rough guess is always suggestive. The old women who had peered and lis- HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY tened after us went home again, and there was nothing to do but watch the portal and as the sun moved try another photograph. We lunched on potato ome- lette and cold breaded chops ; Jehane slept on the grass and woke and consumed such of the chops as remained and wandered off to exchange amenities with the caretaker, her dog, and her donkey: I had nothing to do but look at the portal. The convent of Leyre was planted on a spur of the great sierra which runs off at about half the height, on the very spine or ridge of it, so that eastward the windows of the crypt look into the sun over falling gullies and copsewood, and at the west a narrow terrace, well shaded with holm- oak and walnut, is sustained by a low wall of stone. Over this you may lean and, looking over plantations where once were forests, even into the kingdom of Aragon, rest at last upon the bare flanks of the Pyrenean outliers. Opposite the portal this wall swells into a hemicycle and receives a stone bench: lying there in the sun waiting while the shadows moved, in 219 Windows that look into the sun AND MONOGRAPHS 22O WAY OF S.JAMES The Abbot Viril known also at Samos the quiet of a land inhabited, while the insects sang a tiny tune from which you missed the constant thrill ot the cicada, where danced the blue-mailed flies, the gossamer-winged gnats, while a dog barked far away, I thought of the abbot Viril. In his day the whole mountain side was thick forest, and the tiny church which he knew, and the cluster of cells, was walled in, houses and herb-garden, against the wolves. From this station he looked out on the heaving top of a vast wood, that filled the valley except where the white road ran, and the river's course was marked by a brighter green. It is said that one evening at the hour of recreation, Viril went out the convent gate and down to a clear spring, under a rock, in the outskirts of the wood, pacing quietly, breathing the evening cool and the grassy sweets, but troubled in mind. If Heaven were indeed all music, eternally prolonged, he had an instant fear that one might, in the end, be bored. This was right Spanish, the ennui and the orthodoxy both. The shocking thought would not away, and the good HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY old man was mightily perturbed. Above the spring a little brown bird on a bough sang and sang, now so softly, now so rapturously, that he stayed his walk. It sang, may be, three minutes and then spread wings and flew away, and the abbot turned back, for night was thickening under the trees. His sight was troubled in the dusk, for when he reached the con- vent gate he hardly knew it, nor yet the porter's face, and the brothers, coming in from recreation, looked unfamiliar. They stood about staring a little silently, and one said a word about calling the abbot, and Viril said, quite gently, that he con- ceived himself to be the abbot, and they fell silent again. One who had slipped away came back anon, bringing the abbot and the old, old monk with whom he had at the moment been engaged. This one it was who remembered in the puzzled talk that followed, to have heard long since how three hundred years ago an abbot Viril, going out at twilight, had never again come in: for the three minutes of the bird's song had been three hundred years. 221 "O grey- brown bird I" AND MONOGRAPHS 222 WAY OF S.JAMES Evensong The Court of Silent Dreams So Viril was assured of the joy of heaven and in three days, having received the sacraments, his soul passed thither and his body was buried beside the dust of his old monks. 6 Three bright flies, in metallic armour of blue and green, hung in the sunlight. Yes, that is Spain, the thought went on, you listen to the magical bird's song, and the sound of it is never out of your ears again. There is a poem by Sung Chih-Wen, I recalled, to the same effect : then / n the court of silent dreams I lost myself again. Little by little in the changing lights details became clearer, figures grew recog- nizable, intentions defined themselves. It is highly convenient to go to a place in your own automobile and when you have seen enough to go away again, but to stay there much longer than you like is more instruc- tive. The whole portal, seen from far, is merely a projection on the flat face of the church. Pious hands have screened the worn sculptures with a bit of penthouse roof, otherwise it is as the last rebuilding HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 223 left it, six hundred years ago. The rather low arch of the tympanum encloses six figures and the traces of a seventh that were made for some such place but are merely built in here. They are of the school of Toulouse, and represent Christ blessing, with a book, between SS. Mary and John, SS. Peter and James also blessing and with books, finally, in the left-hand corner, a little seated figure writing on a tablet with style in one hand and eraser in the other, as in the miniatures of manu- scripts a scribe is figured. Unluckily his head is gone, and the whole of his mate at the left. Madrazo 7 would have these figures to represent, besides the Saviour and His mother, SS. Nunila and Alodia, W. MM., on her right and His left, and SS.Viriland Marcianatthe ends. The last two identifications may be right, the other figures, however, are not meant for women, but, one of them, for the Beloved Disciple beardless and bareheaded. Madrazo also says8 that Cean Bermudez read on a stone on the north side, " Magister Fulcherius me fecit," but does not care to admit that it SS. Peter, James, and John AND MONOGRAPHS 224 WAY OF S.JAMES Mailre Foulques ' — who sups with the devil could have been right since Fulcherius or Foulques would be a Frenchman. There- fore he would amend Fulcherius and let the unknown architect take his chance with a Roman name ! The archivolt includes three main sculp- tured orders with decorative moulding between, and a broad billet outside; of these, the innermost is decorated mainly with plant forms, the next two with gro- tesques based mainly on animal forms, lastly, a broader row no less grotesque, of which some details are masks and some are mon- sters but most are human, a man hugging his knees; and some musicians, one with fiddle, one with harp; likewise a man supping out of a pot with a long spoon, as the proverb says in certain circumstances you must. I conceive all of this, like a certain leaf or shell pattern (recalling the wild mallow of garden paths) which runs through the reconstruction, bordering the tympanum, for instance, and decorating the abacus of one of the jamb shafts, to be of the fourteenth century. On each of the flat buttress-pilasters that flank the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 225 jambs, stands a saint, a lion above him and another under his feet. The lions are Lombard-looking, one eating a sheep; the figures Toulousan. So are the capitals, carved, two with birds, their necks inter- laced, or with animals, one being early Gothic. Finally stretched across the top of the projecting mass of the portal, and filling the spandrels, are figures and parts of figures remotely Toulousan, left from an earlier fagade. On the capital of the central shaft, which is formed by four seated men, the drapery is very finely worked and reminds me on the one hand of the seated Saviour at Avila, and on the other of the zodiacal figures at Toulouse. I conceive this capital to be a bit of re- pairing, done by a master passing who was familiar with Languedoc and Castile. Heads of the evangelical lion and ox jut out as if to support a lintel. In the mass of sculptures built about this arch, not all are plain, but some are un- mistakable: chief among these, in the left- hand spandrel, the great S. James with his staff and book. A head alongside seems Avila and Languedoc AND MONOGRAPHS 226 WAY OF S.JAMES The Trans- figuration that of one dead or sleeping. Above, in the row of statues just under the cornice, you have, first, S. Michael (or possibly S. George) with the long triangular shield of the twelfth century, trampling upon the conquered dragon's scaly folds, then, blessing, the Christ of the Mount of Transfiguration, between the chosen apos- tles. Two of these have beards curled and parted, like those of Toulouse; the third, the Beloved, is again young and beardless, and points to his book. In a triangular space on either hand, near the summit of the arch, angels are trumpeting to Judge- ment through great olifaunts, and above them, next the young S. John, are, amongst others on a smaller scale than heretofore, a couple of women whom I take to be of the risen righteous, and a man in pilgrim cloak and sun-hat, in suppliant posture. On the northern half, which is the Saviour's left, you find hell-mouth, figured as a gi- gantic mask with eyes, ears, and ribbons dangling down from the lips: a devil points it out to a man. Jonah lies under his whale, which is curved like a dolphin. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Into the remaining space on this side the Annunciation and Visitation have been tucked away. In the former the angel, in accordance with Byzantine iconographic use, has one wing folded back over his shoulder like a cloak, and the other stretched out behind his outstretched hand which holds a cross — a beautiful bit of symbolism that I do not recall else- where. Over the Visitation broods the Holy Ghost.9 The women wear hanging sleeves with a close wrinkled sleeve below, and veils drawn up about the face to form a wimple. Now for the interpretation of all this. The early church was Poitevin in style, as shown by the great height and narrowness of the aisles and the use and proportions of the longitudinal arches. Churches of this type have room for much sculpture on the facade, even for several distinct themes; Notre- Dame-la-Grande accommo- dates more figures, and more apparently con fused but really coherent symbolism than this of Leyre could ever amount to. In a church dedicated to S. Saviour the patronal 227 The An- nunciation The Key AND MONOGRAPHS 228 WAY OF S.JAMES The cypress The whale feast is kept on August 6, the Feast of the Transfiguration, and the scene upon Mount Tabor belongs therefore among the sculptures. The reader may recall that at the cathedral of Santiago at Compo- stella, Aymery Picaud saw this same Transfiguration occupying the west door- way, whence it was displaced by Master Matthew's Apocalypse, and a motive somewhat similar in the face of the south transept above the doors, Christ and S. James, the cypress of the moun- tain and Abraham who awakens for he has seen the Day of the Lord. The head I noted here at Leyre, I take to be Abraham's. The theme of the Last Judgement was firmly established in the south by the middle of the twelfth century. At Beau- liei , at Autun, at Espalion, the angels are trumpeting and the dead are rising. Jonah appears here, fantastically indeed, but no more irregularly than on the pulpits in the south of Italy, to enforce the great mystery of the Resurrection. Lastly, somewhere among the innumerable arcades of this HISPANIC NOTES THE W A V style room was found, as at Notre- Dame- la-Grande, for the joyful mysteries of the Incarnation, the Angelic Salutation and the Magnificat. These all belong to that church of which just enough was finished tor consecration in the last year of the eleventh century, to permit the daily Mass and the monastic office. It may be that the saint upon the south jamb, and his fellow, quite worn away, on the north, are a trifle later in date than the mass of the work, and that the figures in the tympanum are not only more archaic but actually elder. The same difference of date among statues of a single fabric is noticeable at Compo- stella. What I have shown is that the carven work here at Leyre may fairly be dated at the outset of the twelfth century,10 may fairly be explained by comparison with that at Santiago and, being off the route of pilgrims, loses the advantage of that constant interchange of reminiscence and innovation, suggestion and combination, which was the making of a church like S. Mary's at Sangiiesa. 229 Off the track AND MONOGRAPHS 230 WAY OF S.JAMES Sangiiesa. The City speaks : Casada soy, rey Don Juan, Casada soy, que no viuda; El moro que a ml me tiene Muy grande bien me queria. Sanguesa lies really not very far from Tiermas, though the river Aragon likes to turn and wind with many doublings in between, and the road which follows the The river Aragon river makes a great business of it. The motor omnibus does not follow at all, but strikes across northward and combines at another station with the good little electric line that runs around and about from Pampeluna into the remote valley of Roncal and, on another fork, half-way to Roncevaux. The ancient way, however, made but one stage from Jaca to Sanguesa that lies fair and lovely by the green water's side. Passing through the town, you climb a long hill and come out in a sort of upper world, with heights and valleys of its own and a great sweep of clean bright air through which you look across to a brown city lying on a brown hill- I HISPANIC NOTES Eunate THE WAY side, like a rock on the sands: that is Sos, in Aragon. It is perhaps a good moment to name a peculiarity noted more than once hereabouts, how you may climb and climb, with long loops and windings ot well- metalled road, and come up at last into, so to speak, Beanstalk-country, with its own hills and dales, from which you do not again descend. Above Sanguesa it would seem you could walk on forever in the bright fierce heat, and when you turn back and descend the long declining road that grows after a while into a street, you are in an equally valid world below, by the river. Not far from here lies Javier, where S. Francis Xavier was born, a seat of pious memories and Jesuit architecture. Sanguesa, called la que nunca falto, was founded virtually by Alfonso el Balallador, who in 1132 gave exemptions and privileges to the free men of Sangtiesa la Vieja, which was most likely Rocaforte, if they would settle on the plain below his castle. There was a ford and a bridge, there, and it was frontier, and on a main road, so the castle had to keep the way and the men had to 233 The Bean- stalk country Ford and bridge HISPANIC NOTES 234 A palatine church WAY OF S. JAMES keep the castle. The year before, he had made a gift to the religious ot S. John of Jerusalem of his palace which stood near the bridge and the church within it: de la Iglesia de S. Maria que estaba dentro del patio del rey al principio del bur go nuevo. l That cannot quite have been the present church. Unluckily the next useful date falls too late, being that of concessions made by Philip of Evreux, the spouse of Queen Jehane, counted as Philip III of Navarre, in 1330, when par causa del diluvio de agua era perdida gran parte de la villa. a S. Mary the Royal is a noble transitional church of the late twelfth century with an octagonal dome of the early fourteenth carried on squinches: it has three apses arcaded round inside, high up, three aisles of two bays, but no transept, and a western gallery. The main arches are all pointed and a strong quadripartite vault, beauti- fully ribbed, descends upon clustered piers with two columns on each face and another in each corner to receive the ribs. The capitals are mainly of Romanesque form, developments of the acanthus or applica- HISPANIC NOTES 235 THE WAY tions of the eagle; one pair shows griffins, elsewhere lions are eating a creature; all beautifully conceived and executed. The eastern capitals of the main arcade are early Gothic, the later, on a larger scale, are by a master. The design of a Nativity is like that of the Rood-screen at Chartres and the pulpit at Siena; the man riding on horseback belongs to a corresponding Epiphany, and the head of the follow- ing horse comes around the corner. The bases are high, with griffes in the corner. The west wall is chiefly occupied by an organ, the central apse by a monstrous retable. Probably by reason of some disposition of other buildings around the original patio, the portal occupies, the first bay of the south face. We have seen, already, p that Spanish architects took kindly to side portals. It was itself at some time rebuilt. In the upper part two rows of statues in round-headed arcades recall the southwest of France. In the lower half a great pointed doorway is set, with statues against the col- umns of the jambs; the tympanum being The side AND MONOGRAPHS 236 WAY OF S. JAMES Confusion or com- bination ? occupied by a Doom, and with the twelve apostles under arches and a Madonna and child; the archivolts filled with figures. The triangular spaces left on either side of these are crowded with sculptures, some left over from the earlier version of the portal, some carved in the Spanish style of the late twelfth century, for the places they now occupy, to fill up gaps. The upper part suggests the style of Poitou, the tympanum recalls Languedoc, the jamb statues are of the school of Chartres. M. Bertaux3 thinks the whole portal was made at once in the thirteenth century, with its disproportion and confusion, as children make play-houses with shells and pebbles. He is probably mistaken: six leagues beyond Pampeluna on the other side, at Puente la Reyna, you will find a portal built all at once, and it comes out quite different. Sr. Lamperez suggests4 that perhaps the church of Alfonso sur- vives in the head (i. e., the east end), the plan, with the portal up to the springing of the pointed arches, and the outer walls: the windows moreover and the vaults of HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY the apse and jambs of the door are in keeping with other Spanish work of the early twelfth century. In a restoration executed about a century later the piers and vaults of the nave will have been made, and the portal altered. The tympanum has been cut, he notices, to admit of a pointed arch, and in the face of the jambs the columns do not spring from the ground but commence rather high up, which shows that the earlier doorway lacked columns. Lastly, in the first quarter of the thirteenth century was built the lantern, of perfect early Gothic. The upper part of the tower is of the fourteenth, or fifteenth century. Straightway thereafter, the dis- tinguished architect adds that S. Mary's may have been completely rebuilt about 1 200, using only scraps of the earlier church, and finishing the tower lantern in the first third of the thirteenth century. From this the reader may judge how diffi- cult is Spanish archaeology. In remoter parts of Navarre, at Aybar, only an hour away, or at S. Martin de Unx, the con- temporary style is quite different: heavy, 237 Alterna- tive dates AND MONOGRAPHS 238 WAY OF S.JAMES Foot-path wayfarers Romanesque and hugeous. The present business, however, is not with dates so much as with sources, not with precedence so much as inter-relation. We have seen that at Leyre when the Cistercians rebuilt the nave they made the portal out of frag- ments of the old facade: we shall see that at Puente la Reyna when Knights of S. John built the church of the Crucified and the King built that of S. James, the form of the portal is logical, the sculptures keep appointed places, the order is plain as in Tuscany or Normandy. If then S. Maria was built and rebuilt, so to speak, before our eyes, we may recognize in the workmen who collaborated, and combined so strangely such alien elements, precisely those pilgrims who were passing incessantly along the road. In the Middle Age — it has been said already — craftsmen wandered about, and the builder's trade was less stationary than most; the parallel of theComacine masters established a precedent halt a millennium before; the note-book of Villard de Hon- necourt is evidence that a man in the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY thirteenth century was sketching in Cham- pagne and Switzerland, in Artois and in Hungary. Here at Sangiiesa appear (they have already been evoked) plain tokens that such workmen have come along and stopped a bit, left their handiwork and their teaching behind. Even when they came from very far, on their pilgrimage they had passed by the great shrines of the west of France, on the long Atlantic slope where English armies were already counter- marching and destroying; or else they had come down through the high volcanic land midway between that and the immense river Rhone, where rocks were coloured like the skins of beasts and pied and banded churches broke up out of the ground, down into the soft luxurious plain of Languedoc, and always the ways of building and the forms ot ornament were fresh and living in their minds. As late as the fourteenth century churches were built, in the part of France repre- sented by the departments of Vienne and Charente-Inferieure, with arcades across the upper part and statues under every 239 Flandresin Artoys. . ." AND MONOGRAPHS 240 WAY OF S.JAMES ". . .&Pont puis d Blaye " arch, and they were begun at least as early as the eleventh. The church of Perignac, near Pons,5 on the road from Saintes to Bordeaux, illustrates such an arrangement with two rows of arcading, a large window in the centre of the upper row, a Madonna enthroned with the child in the centre of the lower. This sort served as a model for S. Maria at Sangiiesa. Under a deep cornice, sustained by animal heads, heavy and very plain, run the two rows of double- shafted arches: six figures occupy the upper arcade and in an oblong space in the centre the Christ sits enthroned, blessing, between the four living things. The ox and lion at His feet are not treated symmetrically but face the same way, to the spectator's right, which is precisely the blunder a local workman would make in handling a theme unfamiliar; but the lion has the right Chinese smile, like that of Moissac. Two angels flank this and in the outermost arches are S. Peter and another saint: eight more saints, among whom S. James alone may be distinguished, leaning on his staff, occupy the lower range; they are HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 241 probably all apostles and with the two above and the human image which re- presents S. Matthew in the Tetramorph, make up the eleven. On the tympanum of the door, below, the lowest third (or something more) is occupied by what should fill a lintel if one there were, another arcade, round-headed, sustained by single shafts patterned over with the chevron, meander, spiral, etc., like that at La Char- ite-sur-Loire. The Virgin crowned and seated on a Roman chair holds the Child upon her left knee. Here is not the Sedes Sapientiae, the venerable Madonna of Majesty with its ancient unalterable frontality, but head and shoulders are turned a little eastward, the right arm is laid across the body, to hold the Child's, and the head is a little inclined. The portal of Cahors, now on the north side of the church but once at the west, puts into the lower part of the tympanum, above the lintel, a similar arcade. Above sits a gigantic Christ, with cross-marked nimbus, between four trumpeting angels: He has the mitre-crown of Moissac and the bare Charilc- - Loire AND MONOGRAPHS 242 WAY OF S.JAMES Weighing Souls shoulder and breast of Beaulieu but no wound. He blesses with two fingers and the thumb. On His right two rows of the blessed crowd towards Him; on His left the reprobate, above, are chained into a long gang; below, the angel weighs the souls, which is a French motive. Looking back over the whole length of the Way, I recall it in only two instances, here and at Estella, on parish churches, and on the two cathedrals of Burgos and Leon. Hell is a sprawling monster with horns, teeth, and tongue, but the fourteenth -century motive of the Jaws of Death has not yet appeared. On the other side of the angel, three charm- ing women lean one against the other, and you divine that they are saved. Coming to the jamb-figures, we have further to look for origins but the case is clear. Three queens from Chartres came all the long way. Wasted though they are almost to the state of the dead, some- thing of the old dignity and loveliness yet clings about them. That nearest the door has still the level brows, the troubling smile, of her lovely worn sisters in the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY north. Opposite are men, more ruinous, and grimly jocular without their noses, like the French Death's head, le vieux Camus. The sculptor of these six statues was trained in the school of Chartres, which reached from Senlis down to Bourges and from Etampes in the west, to S. Loup de Naud in the east. Moreover, one capital above the innermost figure on either hand is crowned with tabernacle work like that of Chartres, though the bell of the capital is filled with leafage: some workman combin- ing remembered motives at his wanton will. Of the other capitals, the two western- most show the Expulsion from Paradise and the Presentation in the Temple when the ancient covenant was fulfilled;6 and on the east side one is given over to the Mas- sacre of the Innocents and the other to a Romanesque development, very fair and free, of the acanthus and volutes. Someone began working a diaper on the intervening shafts but never finished. Five rows of little figures, in the archi- volt, are set on the line of the arc in the French fashion and not on the radius as at 243 School of Chartres AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES suckling snake " Leyre and in the west of Spain; and in three cases the mouldings in which they are set are carved very deeply with diaper and zigzag, meander and spiral. There is some evidence here of an alteration, of plan at least: in the innermost row an isolated head, which would be expected at the peak of the arch (as it lies in that above), falls to the right beyond one figure; in the outermost row, the highest figure on the left faces like those on the right. The themes are confused likewise: you will see a fine king and several ot the Apocalyptic elders, with lamp and viol, and prophets with scrolls, and confessors or hermits, and in this company a naked lady suckling at her breasts a serpent and a toad. An angel holds a little soul on its knees, a man sharpens some weapon on an anvil, a jongleur turns his heels over to touch his head. Some of the Signs of the Months are plain: winter with cup and platter, a man killing a hog, another graft- ing, another holding his falcon; a mermaid grasps the two Fishes, and the Twins are knights with long shields, as at Chartres. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 245 Aquarius guards his waterpots, and re- membering the ladies at Toulouse fondling the signs of the Lion and the Ram, one recognizes here one man holding the sign of the Bull and another that of the Goat. They are romantic figures that might pass for the "jeune homme caressant sa chimere." The entire portal projects a little and is further enframed by buttresses all the way up. When it came to gathering up the fragments that remained, some of these were continued around the corner of the eastern buttress and against the chapel wall that projects on the west. The mate to a great winged ox, for instance, and a broken eagle, in one of the spandrels, is a lion, again very Chinese about the head, built into that chapel wall. In the same left hand spandrel occur also: the Tempta- tion and Fall, Cain killing Abel; S. James on a great horse trampling naked men; a doe suckling her young; a rose, and a great interlaced knot of a sort that occurs at Ley re. That knot came probably from the Black Sea; it is found not only on Me- Jeune homme caressant sa chimtre AND MONOGRAPHS 246 WAY OF S.JAMES Knot rovingian fibulae and on a capital in the tower of Brantome, but on an angel's breast in a capital at Constantinople, on the door jambs of Ferrara cathedral as well as the cloister-capitals of S. Bertrand de Com- minges.7 Along the top ramps a row of scaly monsters, done for the place, opposite which you find a beautiful row of dragon and sphinx forms contemporary with Puente la Reyna. The right-hand spandrel in the main is more confused, but in com- pensation you have, built into a corner of the buttress adjoining, an exquisite little Wise Virgin holding her lamp in veiled hands; and, somewhat above, a seated figure of Christ teaching, with three dis- ciples about him. Here too appears a pair of lions of the Lombard breed. All this work covers, then, at least a century, implies at least one rebuilding, and represents three separate regions of France contributing. The distance is not, even on toot, a day's journey from Jaca; the difference is indescribable. Jaca, a capital deep-rooted in antiquity, was the seat of kings, the heart of Aragon; Sangiiesa HISPANIC NOTES THE \V A Y was a stage upon the Pilgrim Way, the creation of political exigency. The church of Santiago looks battered and shapeless, both within and without. It was built in the transitional style, at the beginning of the thirteenth century perhaps, with nave of four bays, aisles, apses vaulted in a chevet, and a great tower over the beginning of the central apse. The main arches are all pointed, and also the clere- story windows in the western part; the quadripartite vault rests on strong vaulting shafts that come down to huge round columns. The capitals are all crude except the pair, of three each, at the eastern end of the nave; the shafts ot the window jambs also have Gothic capitals. The portal, pointed, carries on each side three shafts, their capitals a development of the acanthus leaf, rich and fine but ruined by paint. From S. Nicholas, ruined and gone, which once owed obedience to Roncevaux, 8 the capitals have been fetched away, and are preserved in the Museum at Pam- peluna: they are strong Spanish Roman- esque. 247 Santiago S. Nicholas AND MONOGRAPHS 248 WAY OF S.JAMES S. Salvador Carmen S. Salvador is of the fourteenth century, with a single great nave of six bays, quadri- partite vaulting. The whole apse is car- ried up into a tower. Madrazo says9 an earlier portal still exists inside the present one of the fourteenth century. In the upper stage of this the Saviour shows His wounds between two angels that hold the cross and lance, and SS. Mary and John who kneel to intercede in the corners. Below, on the left, the dead are getting up out of stone sepulchres, are marshalled in a long line, at last are tumbled pell-mell into hell- mouth, which now is a monstrous and practicable pair of jaws, suggested doubt- less by the business of mystery-plays. The Carmen is a lovely little brown thing, with a door round -arched above thin mouldings, and some storied capitals, along with leaves and a genre theme — with the Annunciation, Nativity, Flight into Egypt, and Epiphany. At right angles to it stands a good stone building with an ogee doorway running up into eight huge arch stones, and a pair of ogee ajimcz windows. But indeed everywhere in the town yet HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY stand good secular buildings; here and there on a ruin is stuck a great coat of arms, and superb roofs on carved consoles are common. Of a palace in the calle Mayor one wing is late Gothic and all the rest Renaissance: on another elsewhere are twisted columns and under the root still more wonderful consoles with pendants. The town has shrunken; fig-trees, flowers, and donkeys flourish inside the compass of the ancient walls. The castle, says Cean Bermudez in his Adiciones to Llaguno,10 was built by Miguel de Goyni for Charles the Noble. There are, indeed, plenty of dates at hand for Sanguesa, but few of them fit. For S. Mary the Royal 1131 is too early and 1330 too late to stand for much. By 1232 the King of Navarre was a French- man, Thibaut, Count of Champagne and Brie, but he was little in his kingdom, and the French style of the church is not that of the east. When another French line succeeded, under Charles the Noble, the workmen were Spaniards all. Sanguesa not only commanded the best workmen in 249 Domestic architec- ture Dates AND MONOGRAPHS 250 WAY OF S.JAMES Masters of the works Navarre, but formed masters highly ap- proved. In 1410 the masters of the works of Charles III were Simon Lopez and Miguel de Goyni, the former built the castle in Puente la Reyna, the latter that of San- guesa. 1 1 The castle of Feliciana at Sos,over against Sanguesa on the slope of Aragon, had been built in 1130 by Mestro Jordan for Ramiro cl Monge. In 1415 Miguel de Poyni (probably the same as that Miguel above) was master and director of the royal works in Sanguesa, building mills and other edifices. In 1419 Andres de Soria was master ot the works there. x ' In 1594 Master Juan Verrueta, of Sanguesa, took up and finished the stalls at Huesca, on the death of Nicolas de Verastegui.13 The citadel opens from the calle Mayor, by a wide loggia dated 1560; it contains a little street fringed with houses and then a great brown building, wide and low, with towers at each end. The townsfolk are grave and courteous as those of Aragon: a woman alone may haunt the streets for a day without disturbing their dignity. The children are courteous, almost like HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Italian children; they eye one like shy but friendly dogs, and make a wide d6tour, and shrink away as one turns and catches them watching. Almost Italian, indeed, is the fair courtly air of the little pinkish city, the clean, unfrequented brown streets, the forgotten palace fronts of late Gothic or early Renais- sance, the sense of a long life delicately lived and now declining softly, not ignobly. It was some saint's day that called for a procession about the town, and balconies were hung with old brocade and new, with the stuff called turkey red, and grass-green bunting, and calicoes striped in scarlet and yellow like the cigar ribbons, with checked table cloths and white bed-spreads for want of better. The procession was a scanty thing, that came out of the cavernous church with yellow flames dancing in the darkness; first a popping of rockets in- visible in the noon, then a rush of old men and young women with yellow flickering candles held aslant, promptly to blow out; then the singing men in albs freshly gauffered and deeply edged with lace, their 251 Life deli- cately lived AND MONOGRAPHS 252 WAY OF S.JAMES A kind of scarlet pink harsh antiphon rising up and again lost, in the windings of the streets, like the sound of surf to men inland; then incense blue in the sunlight; finally the Blessed Sacrament under a canopy, set in a bouquet of such vestments that my eyes drew my feet about the entire city and back again till the black church doorway had swal- lowed up the singing men and the extin- guished candles and the sanctimonious old women and the pitiful old men, the starched little girls and the bigger girls in white cotton gloves. They were not so old, those vestments, nor embroidered, nor excessively rich, but they were of a kind of scarlet pink like the sound of flutes and bassoons and hautboys, that one could not have enough of. I sucked it up thirstily: I could have knelt on the cobblestones to keep it longer, and the bored antiphon of the singing men, the hiss of the inane rockets, the scrupulous hangings along the appointed streets were all undertone, the mere accompaniment to the colour of that obbligalo. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 253 IV PAMPELUNA En Paris esta dona Alda la esposa de don Roldan; trescientas damas con etta para la acompanar: Todas visten un vestido, todas calzan un calzar, todas comen d una mesa, todas contian de un pan.... Las ciento hilaban oro, las ciento tejen cendal, las ciento tanan instru- ments para dona Alda holgar. — Romance. THERE were processions in Pampeluna early every morning, and at any hour of the day one would hear the call of pipe and tabor and then the running of countless little feet, and suddenly about one surged a skurrying hundred or so of panting little AND MONOGRAPHS I 254 WAY OF S.JAMES Giants and Cabezones boys and girls in blue smocks, all running as they ran in Hamelin Town, till the mass thickened like boiling gruel and around a corner came the Giants. Every self- respecting Spanish town takes out, on the patronal feast, and Corpus Chris ti, and other suitable dates, at least six of these figures. They are built of papier-mache and wicker, dressed in calico and velvet, and carried on invisible men's shoulders. There is a king and queen, a Moor and Mooress, and in Santiago the other couple are pilgrims, in Pampeluna they are knight and lady. They are, so to speak, the big brothers of the Marionettes. They exe- cuted a sort of minuet before the Cathedral, and led the procession when S. Firmin in person, or at any rate some bones believed to be his, went down every morning to assist at a mass in the church of his name. Along with the Giants, however, Pampeluna enjoys a dozen other gigantic mannikins of fixed type called Cabezudos; a sailor, a cleric, a heathen Chinee, an old person in a tie wig, and the like, which are merely heads worn on the shoulders ot men in HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 255 costume. Hobby Horse is there as well, with a bladder full of pease to bang boys over the head; more than once we came Hobby upon a very tired Hobby Horse refreshing his bladder and his hot face in a town fountain. All these were abroad, to cer- tain knowledge, from seven in the morning till twelve at night, how long before and after remains unknown, in honour of S. Fir- min, the apostle of Picardy and the patron of his birthplace Pampeluna. We had left Tiermas hurriedly at night- fall, because of the approaching feria, and the Manager had given us a letter to a personal friend of his, one Roque, who was a porter at the station of the electric line. Without his recommendation we could hardly have found where to sleep, but Roque, — after reading the letter aloud, by an odd bit of formal courtesy that en- chanted us — took up the bags, on some good excuse showed us to his own niche of two rooms and a half, full of anti- macassars and blue vases, and went on across the street to a Casa de Huespedes. This belonged to a stout lady who, under AND MONOGRAPHS 256 WAY OF S.JAMES The Feria The Abb6 pressure of the combined recommendations of the Manager and Roque, dislodged three men just making an evening toilet with plenty of hair tonic and clean towels, and gave us a room just as wide as the window, looking on a fairly wide street. We did not, in truth, sleep much, nobody did; but we went to bed regularly, which few did. The meals went on without per- ceptible interval, for the three dislodged gentlemen and many more were accommo- dated in Roque's and other adjoining niches, whence they came in for endless luncheons and dinners. I think nearly all the other people at table were men, and they all looked like commis-voyageurs and their patrons, except one ecclesiastic, a comely young abbe", grey-haired and spoiled as a woman. He would stand in the doorway to be admired, and then ad- vance se dandinant, swinging his hips and petticoats. His voice and smile and hands were soft, and he struck one as somehow improper, even before the night he stood longer than usual in the doorway and one discovered that he was dressed in a grey HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY sack suit. The civilian dress was very becoming: "Perhaps," said a priest to whom we related this one time, " he was a military chaplain; they allow themselves great liberties!" At any rate, there he stood, thus he dined; the thing is incredible but it happened. In the memory of that smiling corrupt face I have forgotten every- thing about the house of La Francesa except the poor fat francesa and her sleepless daughters and the darkness of the kitchen where something always was going on. In the streets something was always go- ing on too: first the procession to S. Firmin, and a solemn mass at the Cathedral with an orchestra of fiddles and other viols; then a concert of military music for which a whole street served as salon dc musique, penny chairs ranged up the steep ascent and the band at the top. After luncheon the bull-fight lasted from two to nearly six, and after dinner there was the play. But after the bull-fight and before dinner there happened, in the Paseo, the prettiest thing we have ever seen in any land or AND MONOGRAPHS 258 WAY OF S. JAMES Bath and S. Cloud Watteau animated, fragrant, and troubling city, — the Promenade. The very best at Bath or at S. Cloud cannot have shown anything like such beauty. For the S. Fir- min, the nobility and gentry of Navarre come in, the county families. The level Paseo is not more than half a mile long, from the central square to the city gate, and where the penny chairs were ranged in a double row on either side the central walk of trodden earth, the families settled themselves for talk, pulled up into knots, spread out into crescents. The elders had a year of news to give and hear; the girls walked up and down with their brothers or cousins, and of course brother and sister could walk with another brother and sister. The men were slender-waisted, distinguished, tall enough, with a charm- ing carriage and beautiful hands. The loveliness of the women was like a Watteau animated, fragrant, and troubling. There were no hats, and few of the little wilette of Chantilly that have grown so common, but golden Spanish blonde and silken Spanish lace; the sumptuous state of white mantillas, the various grace of black HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY mantillas, the courtly kind that lies in a deep ruffle on the shoulders, the delicious chenille kind that is daring, the heavy- worked kind that is romantic. Over one arm lay a folded shawl, of cre~pe or soft silk or embroidered in brilliant flowers; in one hand a folded fan. The women were very lovely, very well dressed, very well bred, but their loveliness and their breeding and their dress found its own right expression in their own traditional attributes, fan, shawl, and mantilla. The mantilla is not easy to wear, and it takes an hour to put on, and a paper of pins; the hair must be dressed high and very firmly ; the tall comb will lend further height and stability, then every fold of the lace is separately modified and securely pinned with an infinity of black pins. It exacts, moreover, great beauty of feature, great refinement. Rich contours and soft flesh matter not at all, but the head must have beauty of modelling, and have a noble bony structure, and contours attained by breeding through hundreds of generations. The mantilla, the fan, the shawl: the 259 Mantilla AND MONOGRAPHS 26o WAY OF S.JAMES shawl and fan The beauty and the night Spanish figure is the finest in the world; the carriage and walk is like Hers whom ^Eneas watched through the trees and knew Her by it, for nothing else could move so divinely. Shawl, mantilla, and fan: the Spanish hand is a miracle, a non- pareil of beauty. For an hour and a half every evening the nobility of Navarre walked in beauty there, in rustling and murmuring of silk, and voices, and dark leafage; warm puffs of perfume through a night wind blowing out of dark and moun- tains; a luminous dust filling all the space, above which hung a pale sky infinitely remote. Recalling the S. Firmin, I recall only this space, glowing, moving, scented, mur- murous, like a syringa bush on a night of fireflies. The city I knew already, having stayed there once in January when the sign of S. Julian of the North was augury of hospitality and afforded for the sunless hours a stove in the hotel dining-room. Of those long hours in a Spanish winter, after dark and before dinner, how by the natives they may be passed least intolerably, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY something shall be said later. For a woman alone, they are hard. She has been out seeing things while the daylight lasted and is honestly tired; moreover, most churches close at nightfall and the rest have nothing by any chance worth seeing even were they not wrapped in a midnight of their own, just starred with votive candles. She cannot walk up and down the pavement, in the light of shop windows, as men are doing. She goes back to her room at the hotel. There she cannot go to bed to keep warm, for dinner is still three hours away; she makes her tea, then fills a rubber hot-water- bottle, and wrapping it and herself in a rug lies down under a faint electric bulb to read and shiver and not dare to doze. At S. Julian of the North, to the discomposure of the waiters, I was able to carry the Chan- son de Roland into the dining-room, and after the good American fashion to put my feet on the stove and digest in comfort the day's disillusions. To look for Charlemagne I had gone to Pampeluna and I had found the eighteenth 261 A woman alone unless stout and grey . . . The day's disillusions AND MONOGRAPHS 262 WAY OF S.JAMES The eighteenth century . . at noon upon the peak of Heaven..." century, a misadventure always discon- certing. The Ayuntamiento was rather charming with columns and entablatures, pediments and inverted consoles, and wrought iron balconies. The Plaza de la Constitution, like that in front of the cathe- dral, was Greco-Roman in its intentions, but vaguely picturesque in its arcaded side- walks, its individual balconies, its terraces and doors opening upon them, up among the slated roofs. The cathedral was flat- headed: now a Gothic building wants a gable roof, and flying buttresses, and pinnacles that function. The other ancient churches, S. Cernin and S. Nicolas, were shockingly restored. And . . . and . . . a woman alone will meet, from time to time, a little personal annoyance, even from priests, that however inevitable, yet leaves her hurt. If Charlemagne is not at Pampeluna, yet the Pyrenees are there; it is possible to walk almost around the town, in the crys- talline noon, on turfy ramparts and crumbling walls, and look off to azure luminous heights and tender vaporous HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY foldings till it is as if one should walk in the very heart of a star sapphire. The old cathedral of Pampeluna was fair as a moon even among fair churches. It was a hundred years in building and stood for less than twice that time : founded by Sancho el Mayor who was a wise man and a canny. He had introduced the rule of Cluny into S. Juan de la Pena; he was about to do the same at S. Salvador de Ley re, when the abbot and his friends among the nobility, by way of diversion, urged in assembled Cortes the more im- mediate need of restoring the cathedral. "Certainly, since you recommend it," said the king, "and to that important end we will apply, amongst other revenues, those of S.Salvador." This was in 1023. A great part of the building, however, was done under Bishop Peter of Roda, who filled the See as late as 1115, and coming himself from near Toulouse, knew whither to send for work- men. He also substituted for the monks who had served the church till then, canons regular of S. Augustine, whose rule of life in common was to leave its mark upon the f ab- 263 Pulchra ut luna Peter of Roda AND MONOGRAPHS 264 WAY OF S.JAMES French coadjutors ric of the second church. In this action he had the advice of the abbot Torneros, the prior of S. Sernin of Toulouse, the arch- bishop of Auch, and others. His successor, Bishop William, was a great fighter, who served el Batallador, his king, on many a field; Bishop Sancho de Larrosa, who con- secrated it, knew how to get rich gifts;1 but certainly we may leave to Bishop Peter and his craftsmen the glory of what survives from the portal of 1 1 24 or a cloister adja- cent, eight lovely capitals built up in a niche of the present cloister. The detail is richer and freer than any now in the mu- seum at Toulouse, the style is identical. The church and quarter of S. Cernin, contemporary with this work, form another link with Toulouse. Just about this time Alfonso el Batallador, in a document given at Atafalla (Tafalla) in September of 1129, had sent to repeople the burg of S. Cernin, destroyed some time before. S. Cernin or Serninus, S. Saturninus, was Bishop of Toulouse, and some historians will have it that the francos to whom the king gave privileges were not merely free men but HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Frenchmen, in particular of Cahors, ex- pelled by Philip, or possibly Albigensian refugees. Now the Cahorsines, we know, gave a pope to Rome and money lenders to Dante and Europe; there is no reason why they should not have settled in the suburb of a royal capital, under a French bishop's protection. Whosoever they were, the king conceded to the new population of the plain of S. Saturnine of Irunia, amongst other rights, the fuero of Jaca in respect of the departments of Justice and the Treas- ury, and forbade any Navarrese noble or cleric to settle there; the ground about might not be built upon ; the quarters over- looking it might not build towers or other- wise domineer or menace; the citizens were to elect three candidates of their own from whom the Bishop must select an al- calde, and this burg alone might sell wine or bread to pilgrims. S. Cernin is the oldest Gothic church in Navarre, and belongs to the second half of the thirteenth century. This dictum of Madrazo, confirmed by Lamperez, 2 leaves one to wonder into how late an age may Qui vulgar- tier Caorci- ni dicunlur AND MONOGRAPHS 266 WAY OF S.JAMES A rare plan come down all the late-Romanesque and Transitional building. In the curious plan of the original part of this church, occurs an ingenious modification of a French motive, rather rare, but developed at Estella six leagues away on the same Camino frances, the three chapels opening directly from the apse without an ambula- tory intervening, as at Souillac and Cahors. At Souillac and Estella the apsidioles are treated as mere niches and the central apse is the main thing: at Cahors the choir is so railed round, in the central apse, as to leave a procession path and access to the chapels: here at S. Cernin the chapels are the main matter and the high altar is placed in the central one. The west door of this church has been quite spoiled but there are some traces of a porch or an ar- cade that would have harboured tombs. The north door is sheltered by a porch of five bays stretching along the whole north side that, like those of Ripoll and S. Miguel of Estella, is later than the portal itself but not so much later. It contains a few tombs or traces of them. Outside, at the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY entrance, S. Saturninus stands upon the bull of his martyrdom and his pendant is S. James with a kneeling pilgrim, in long gown, skin rain-coat, wallet and staff. The door itself, though at first glance it looks like much fourteenth -century work in Navarre, on examination appears finer by far, with a very noble distribution and subordination, among the multiplied mould- ings of jamb and archivolt, into major and minor systems. The six capitals on either side correspond to a strong projection and their re-entrant angles to pronounced hol- lows. In the tympanum sits Christ as Judge, between SS. Mary and John, and a monk in the right-hand corner interceding: an angel in the corresponding angle trum- pets to Judgement. The lintel, or lower part of the tympanum, is occupied by an arcade of eight cusped and pointed arches grouped into pairs by shafts; the spandrels between them are occupied by tiny angels. In the arcade the dead are (i) rising from their tombs, (2) coming to Judgement, and (3) worshipping their Redeemer; (4) others, agonized, led off to hell and boiled in a pot. 267 Figured on p. 179 Tuba mirum spargens sonum AND MONOGRAPHS 268 WAY OF S.JAMES Symbolism The historied capitals begin, on the left, with a larger group tinder the boss that terminates the dripstone; it represents the Annunciation, and the series continues with the Visitation, Nativity, Presentation, etc., down to the Flight into Egypt, the Epiphany figuring on the projection which sustains the lintel. On the other side, the largest, outermost scene is the Harrowing of Hell, thence (reading inward) the history of Palm Sunday in great detail, with Zaccheus in the tree, the walls of Jerusalem crowded and a man coming out of the gate ; the Last Supper, the Agony in the Garden, the Way to Calvary, Deposition, Maries at the Tomb, and Noli Me Tangere and, upon the corbel that sustains the lintel, the Resurrec- tion. In the peak of the arch is set a series of isolated figures: Christ crowned, with a book, the Eternal Father holding a crucifix, the Dove hovering above, and the risen Christ. Finally, the hood moulding swirls up into a glorious finial that sup- ports a Calvary, the Crucified between SS. Mary and John. In all this figure sculpture the elements HISPANIC NOTES signifi- cance THE WAY 269 and origins are mingled. The iconography of the capitals is French — is French of France — but the symbolism is original and exquisite in its arrangement of correspond- ences, bringing the Epiphany, the Mani- festation of God's Humanity, into relation with the Resurrection, the Manifestation of His Divinity; and, in the same way, the Annunciation to Mary that the close of Eve's long expectation was at hand, into relation with the Apparition of the King of Glory in Limbo, to take up with Him the spirits in prison. The main figures of the tympanum are of the later cathedral tradi- tion. The little figures stuck against the mouldings, with the structural irrelevance that nobody could break a Spaniard of, are Spanish motives, perhaps: they left their mark on churches in Navarre and Navarrese painters as well. The difference of privilege in the different quarters of the town, for a while adjusted by Sancho el Mayor early in the eleventh century, led to a great war in the thirteenth at the end of which the French took and burned it, 1277; but though the cathedral AND MONOGRAPHS 270 WAY OF S.JAMES The New Cathedral was sacked the fabric escaped. Again in 1422 Charles the Noble gave to the city the so-called act of Union, which finally reduced the surviving three-quarters under a single civil government. But the great gift of this king was the new cathedral of French Gothic. In 1390, the very year of his coronation, on the first of July, the greater part of the cathedral fell in sudden ruin, wrecking the choir and most of the rest, but without loss of life. The west front escaped, for Moret's continuator writes in the eighteenth century, de lo antiguo sdlo quedd la puerta del frontispicio, que ahora vemos. 3 The king, it is said, had already begun some works within, both to beautify and to admit light: it is easy to conjecture injury to vital parts of the strong old Ro- manesque, with its lofty barrel vaults light- ed only from the aisles, now out of date and ill-understood; at any rate in 1397 the reconstruction was begun. Much beautiful building had been commenced already, how much it is hard to say, by Bishop Arnald of Barbazan, 1317-1355: a glorious chapter-room, and a cloister of which the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY French east and north wings were finished and escaped destruction: at their angle, along with the doorway into the south transept, and three precious monuments of the thir- teenth century, the Epiphany of Jacques Peyrut and the tomb of the Infants of Luna. The south and west sides of the cloister belong to the fifteenth century, with three other doors hardly less beautiful : that into the Refectory, that close at hand but at right angles to it, which leads into a court or garden, and that called la Preciosa. The cathedral, says M. Bertaux,4 was begun under a French prince, Philip of Evreux by a French bishop, Arnald of Barbazan, and finished at the end of the century under a French king, Charles the Noble, who was born at Nantes and edu- cated at Paris. After this there is nothing to find out about the cathedral, it is simply all French; but not French of Paris, be it remarked. The real comparisons must be made with the south, Bayonne, for instance: and the real sources of the style lie often not in the Royal Domain. gainst the door of the south transept 271 French prince AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Assumpta est Maria which, like the cathedral itself, is dedi- cated to the Assumption, stands a grave and queenly Madonna, rather Spanish of face, offering to her divine Son the Book. In the jamb and archivolts are the Works of Mercy, the Strong Women of Scripture, angels making music, and others of the company of heaven bearing an antiphon on a scroll, a cadence from the Song of Songs: "Who is this that cometh up from the Wilderness leaning upon her Be- loved? Assumpta est Maria in Coelum." The symbolism here, and in the figures of Church and Synagogue at the Refectory door, is significant in Spain, where such is rare. The tympanum, greatly admired, is just a little absurd: of the early fifteenth century, it represents the Dormition in the midst of a thick crowd, angels tiptoe and pushing to look on, apostles wiping their eyes on the sheet, on their clothes, or a napkin, and a swarm of little angels buzz- ing above with a napkin for the little soul that, dressed as for a birthday, is held up by a leaning Christ with curled hair and beard: Franco-Flemish, pronounces M. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 273 Bertaux, 5 and whatever he means by that is probably the truth : provincial, that is to say. It looks almost as if copied from embroidery, rather than developed in a strong iconographic tradition. The door called la Preciosa comes next perhaps in date to this one, flanked by SS. Mary and Gabriel on elaborate panelled bases under canopies. The three bands of the tympanum show scenes from the later life of the Blessed Virgin, culminating in her Entombment, at which assists an admirable group of knights. The five little conversation-pieces in the lowest register suggest, in their arrangement, con- temporary French ivories, with a notable dif- ference,— the number of persons engaged. One great beauty of the ivories is the simplification enforced, the reduction of every action to its fewest figures: but here is no syncopation, everything, rather, expanded and "practicable." When the Blessed Virgin addresses the apostles before her death you count the twelve of them; their miraculous arrival at Jerusalem, like that of S. Michael in the row below, occurs La Preciosa AND MONOGRAPHS 274 WAY OF S.JAMES So the Cursor o* the World in the foldings of a cloud with crinkled edges. I take it that the practice of miracle plays must account for this treat- ment, as it will for that of the Crucifixion in the north-west corner, where the groups are smaller but the action more dramatic. There, in the upper range, you have, first, the three Maries, leaning upon each other in a lovely and apparently traditional group, fair as the three Graces; then the Madonna sustained by S. John. On the other side of the Cross Longinus testifies with a fine gesture, and two soldiers and a Jew expressively marvel. As in the early painting preserved in the inner sacristy, the Tree of the Cross is a real tree, gnarled and barky, in accordance with a legend that the Cross itself flourished with leaf and bark from noon to compline on the day of the Crucifixion.6 Noli Me T anger e and the meeting of S. Peter with the Magdalen are studied stage tableaux. In the lowest range the jaws of hell are a machine, and the Sepulchre a sarcophagus large enough to hold a man or two. One curious detail not to be passed over is the likeness of this THE WAY to the Easter Sepulchre which still sur- vives in some English churches, for in- stance, at Lincoln, and the soldiers tucked up to sleep under the three arcades that sustain it. The door into the Refectory, flanked by Church and Synagogue that suggest Stras- burg much sooner than Leon, depicts, above, the Last Supper and then the Entry into Jerusalem. This supper table, with its dishes of fish, its flat loaves, its goblets and ewers, recalls the enchanting panel painting of Solsona, precious for the examples it affords of Hispano-Moresque pottery. The original sculptural source of this Cena is to be looked for at S. Gilles in Provence. In the lunette above, both the crowd and the tree are treated decoratively ; the fortified city of Jerusalem with her towers, her bulwarks, betrays how fair was Pampeluna under Charles III, muy noble y muy leal. There is more than a hint of the Renaissance in this tympanum; though different, it should be about con- temporary with the door of the Assunla. Inside the Refectory, the base of the lec- 275 Cena of Solsona AND MONOGRAPHS 276 WAY OF S.JAMES Hue and Cry after the Unicorn La Barba- zana tor's pulpit is carved with the Hue and Cry after the Unicorn, with a verve highly stimulating but quite secular, and the capitals are of the same kind. A shallow niche encloses, under the Pelican in her piety, two viol players, a centaur with bag- pipe, a man rending a lion, a lion rending a man, and all the familiar and secular imagery which is at its best in the cloister of Leon. Lastly, against the delicate mouldings of la Barbazana, the chapel of Bishop Arnald where yet he lies, someone fashioned statues of SS. Peter and Paul, resting them on figured bases in the same style as the carv- ings in the Refectory. These great figures of the apostles are rather fine, and belong to Spanish art well along; they are later by a century than the jamb-figures of la Preciosa. They are later by two genera- tions than the Epiphany on the same wall, which is signed "Jacques Peyrut fist ceste istoyre." 7 The figures of the two standing kings are truly Gothic still in feeling, and the grand Madonna and kneeling first king may indeed suggest work that began their HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY century at Dijon, but in no other sense than would any dawning Renaissance. The asp and basilisk coil under her feet as at Amiens. Close to this signed work, not, alas, dated, is the tomb of the Infants of Luna. In the niche above, on either side the Crucified stand three little figures as Burgundian as possible. D. Lionel of Navarre was a bastard son of Charles the Bad, a splendid and romantic figure, dead in the flower of youth. He married Dofia Elf a de Luna and died in 1413. 8 Of slightly earlier date, indeed, is the tomb that Janin Lome of Tournai made for Charles the Good, he being yet alive, in 1416. Its place, formerly in the Coro, is now in the ancient kitchen of the chapter. The contract still exists by which he was to have stone para las obras et ymaginies de las sepulturas del Rey nuestro Seynor et bien assi del Rey su padre, a qul Dios perdone, que ha fecho et entiende fazer el dicto John Lome en la iglesia de S. Maria de Pamplona.9 This has twenty -eight little weepers under canopies around the base, and the effigies of King and Queen 277 The Infants of Luna AND MONOGRAPHS 278 WAY OF S.JAMES An altar- tomb recumbent under other canopies, on the black slab atop. The flat head of those canopies is used for an inscription, easy to read by walking around the monument; against the feet are the queen's greyhounds and the king's mastiff: otherwise, as on the tombs at S. Denis, the drapery lies as if the statues were erect. Of the other tomb, in- tended for Charles II, nothing seems to be known, but I found in one of the eastern chapels an altar built above and around what seemed to be a tomb with a few such weepers under canopies: these may have been designed for that. It is hard to see just why, when Spanish work for once was in direct contact with the Royal Domain, there should be little to betray the characteristic style of the Isle of France. Champagne, Burgundy, and the Flemish border are what can be identified — the only deduction is that there is no d priori in archaeology and that you can barely trust, not documents ever, but simply the look of things. A little faded painting still stains the wall above the Infants of Luna; just a row HIS- PA NIC NOTES THE WAY of perishing saints that look French as the little statues do, pure and lovely. French mural painting in the fifteenth century, unless markedly Italianate, was much of a kind. In the sacristy is preserved a small and ruinous panel, very precious, of the Crucifixion, that is usually denied to the sight of travellers but was lent to the exposition at Saragossa in 1904 and there written up by M. Bertaux. I0 When I examined it in 1912 it seemed to me some- thing quite wonderful: done in the same style as the contemporary French minia- tures, and very like the Parement de Narbonne, with the same dependence on outline and flat washes of tempera barely discernible, but full ot character. The scene of the Crucifixion fills the greater part of the panel, the Pelican and the sun and moon being above, the Madonna and two other Maries on one side and a rather grotesque S. John on the other; in the border nine prophets with scrolls on each side and two bishops below. Under all this, a church of three aisles, a Bishop en- throned in the centre giving a book to a French painting AND MONOGRAPHS 280 WAY OF S.JAMES A genial fellow monk: only parts of the body and hands are left. People on the right and left are both secular and religious, one clerk has a rolled document, another a book, an ecclesi- astic a roll: six people, between and smaller, are kneeling, one at least has a book. On the steps of the throne a genial fellow in gown and hood, with gloves, has one hand bare. Lamps hang in the aisles; the arches are cusped, with open curves, not horse- shoe, and marmosets in the spandrels; the capitals leafy. Above the arms of the cross are figures that seem to be the Church and Synagogue, but sorely ruined. So much I transcribe from notes taken at the time. Now, knowing more about Spanish manu- scripts, I have only to add that from the reproduction in the Saragossa monograph may be made out a musician playing the viol on the Bishop's left, and in the crowd under the arch beyond him, an elephant in royal housings. A lady in this crowd wears a coif not unlike that of Anne of Brittany; a layman on the opposite side, a hood of fifteenth -century fashion. The roofs are covered with overlapping tiles such -as you HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY find, variously indicated but intended alike, in Spanish manuscripts all the way from the Ashburnham Pentateuch (which seems to be Visigothic), through the Bible of S. Peter of Roda (called also the Bible de Noailles) and the Canligas del Rey Sabio. I should add that the head-dress of the holy women, a veil that f-alls in scallops past the cheek, is worn in French ivories in the fifteenth century and in a little Annun- ciation of that date in Vich. There is a fifteenth -century ivory at Paris, I think at the Cluny, which is very close to the main scene of the Crucifixion : there is a reliquary of a Holy Thorn at Pampeluna which is even closer. In short, the style proves later and perhaps less French on study. The upper part goes back to a common Carolingian tradition rather than a direct French source: the lower part is absolutely in the Spanish miniature tradition and later than the paintings to the books of el Rey Sabio. I should suppose that the Greek gift of the Lignum Crucis was the occasion of the panel.11 The mottoes, 281 The Ash- burnham Pentateuch The Caro- lingian tradition AND MONOGRAPHS 282 WAY OF S. JAMES which M. Bertaux has published, all bear on the single theme of the Tree of the Cross: On the title of the Cross: "Similis factus sum pellicano solitudi- Sacra Arbor nis." Amen. Ps. ci, 72. Crucis The Church: "Ecclesia. — Fasciculus myrrh dilec- tus meus mihi; inter ubera mea com- morabitur." Cant, i, 12. Angel: "Angelus. — Beati qui lavant stolas suas in sanguine agni." Apoc. xxii, 14. On the right side: " Jeremias. — Ego quasi agnus mansue- tus qui portatur ad victimam." xi, 19. "Osseas. — Vivificabit nos post duos dies, in die tertia suscitabit nos et vive- mus in conspectu ejus." vi, 3. "Joel. — Germinaverunt spetiosa de- serti quia lignum attulit fructum suum." ii, 22. "Joannes. — In hoc cognovimus cari- tatem Dei quoniam pro nobis animam suam posuit." Ep. iii, 16. "Ambrosius. — Finis fidei mee iste est: finis fidei mee Filius Dei crucifix us est." I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 283 On the left side: ["Ezekiel. — Et erunt] fructus ejus in cibum et folia ejus in medicinam." xlvii, 12. "Daniel. — Post hebdomades LXXII fit mundo occi [detur Cristus]." ix. 26. semi tn lucis "Sofonias. — Expecta me, dicit Do- minus, in die resurrectionis mee in futu- rum." iii, 8. "Petrus. — Peccata nostra ipse per- tulit in corpore suo super lignum Crucis." Ep. ii, 24. Of the cathedral itself I see no reason to speak at length. Street has characterized it with warmth and appreciation. I found the arrangement of the eastern part, based on the equilateral triangle and the hexagon, dry, fantastical rather than intuitive, and rather dull. The detail of mouldings , tracery and capitals is pleasanter than one has a right to expect, which is often the case in pro- vincial work. The Coro that fills up the nave with solid masonry, the west front that Ven- tura Rodriguez applied in the eighteenth century, are not relevant to the general en- joyment that Gothic alone can afford. AND MONOGRAPHS I 284 WAY OF S.JAMES Looking at the plan, one may conjecture of that lost Old Cathedral of Peter of Roda, for which Peter of Paris in 1186 got the The Old Cathedral relics of S. Firmin from the north, that it belonged to the grand group of S. Sernin of Toulouse, with high dark barrel-vaulted nave, aisled transept, and ambulatory with chapels. It had a westerly cloister, like Burgos, and probably towers flanking the last bay of the nave, like Bordeaux and Bayonne. Against the transept face was built the new cloister, while the com- • mon life still obtained, that had a square fountain house for ablutions in the corner next the Refectory. This is turned into a chapel now, and enclosed with ironwork that came, according to tradition, from the field of Las Navas. Four Latin verses are written above the doorway: Cingere quae cernis crucifixum ferrea vincla barbaricae gentis funere rupta manent: Sanctius exuvias discerptas vindice ferro hue, illuc sparsit stemata fustra pius. Anno 1212. I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY The old chapter-house still stands, where it belongs, eastward of the cloister, open- ing upon it by a door between two win- dows, and vaulted in a great star: the square plan is brought to octagonal by arches thrown across the corners and vaulted them- selves, as at Burgos and in the eastern chapels of Las Huelgas. Pampeluna remains in recollection with all the eighteenth-century virtues, clean, prosperous, just a little old-world, very decent. The beggars wear a brass badge as Dean Swift once recommended, and are both healthier-looking and better-dressed than their neighbours. Outside the town, on the upper side, beyond all the walls, dry ditches and em- bankments, the road forks. One way runs back into Old Castile; the other east and north. As we stood and looked toward France, a diligence jingled by with two women atop, on the road to France. It was irresistible, or all but. But the wind blew keen from Spain, and the pilgrim road went west, and we turned our faces where the starry stream still goes. 285 Chapter- house The road to France AND MONOGRAPHS 286 WAY OF S.JAMES V SAINT SEPULCHRE Ah, see the fair chivalry come, the companions of Christ 1 White Horsemen who ride on white horses, the Knights of God ! They, for their Lord and their Lover who sacrificed All, save the sweetness of treading where He first trod 1 THE curious may care to know that, finding it impossible to pronounce in- The house of a telligibly those Spanish diphthongs which hundred are a ripple of vowels, I had secured in doors Pampeluna a postcard of Eunate, and mildly proffered it at the ticket window of the diligence office and in conference at Puente la Reyna. It sufficed. The church of Eunate lies, not many miles thence, quite isolated in the broad and fertile valley of the Izarbe, to which I drove over I HISPANIC NOTES The Queen's Bridge THE WAY in a sort of buggy. It is a pleasant, soli- tary little place: not even the women cut- ting hay and turning brown moist earth, will cross three fields to say a prayer. The priest comes seldom. Like a boulder in a mountain pasture, it lies there detached but not incongruous. I know a little about circular churches, less about octagonal, but some, I am credibly told, exist in Asia Minor; I know also one at Laon, one at Le Puy, and one at Segovia in Spain, all three given popu- larly to the Knights of the Temple : likewise an ermiia at Torres, on the Logrofio road. There is also the church of S. Marcos in Salamanca. It is conceivable that they fetched their plan from the East for those churches and this. The forms, however, of column and arch, of moulding and capi- tal, are those of the region round about. The church is an irregular octagon with three-quarter columns and capitals at the corners and corbels under the roof. The pentagonal apse has the same column and corbels, and a window with jamb shafts, a bold roll-moulding, and a plain 287 Circular churches This, octagonal HISPANIC NOTES 288 WAY OF S.JAMES and domed dripstone. On five of the eight sides a strong pointed arch in the masonry of the wall reaches a trifle higher than the apse. It is roofed by slabs of stone overlapping from cornice to centre, laid with plenty of mortar. Wild grasses wave there. The entrance is now at the west and a strong north door is blocked up on the inside by a wardrobe; a winding stair goes up to roof and bells in a projection that on the out- side rather spoils the proportions but was once the base of a belfry. In the body of the church, the shafts in the corners of the octagon go up to a plain string-course level with the sills of windows, which are open in the second and third sides and in the others are blind niches: from the capitals of these shafts rise others, smaller, to sustain a curved rib, on top of which, again, rests each of the eight square ribs that support the dome. About at the haunch of this occur openings (now covered by the roof- tiles), in shape alternately lozenge and octagon. The apse is enriched by simple repeti- tions: the entrance arch consists of two HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY orders resting on capitals built into the wall, and the vault rests on four ribs which come down on shafts to the window sills. Around inside, an upper arcade has four round arches and one pointed, a lower arcade, all pointed: the shafts which sus- tained this are hidden by the steps which go around the inside just above the floor. The capitals are made chiefly of leaf forms, but a few show interlaced gro- tesques and a few show early Gothic. All this is strong building, albeit clumsy. The thing really characteristic about the church door, outside, is the local style: dripstone carved with a row of debased human grotesques, as at S. Miguel of Estella and El Crucifijo of Puente la Reyna; jamb capitals constituted by a rich interlace, as at the same two churches; archivolts carrying a leaf, the grape, and for the rest, rounds and hollows. An amazing octagonal cloister encom- passes the church outside, but can never have had a roof, or some traces of that would remain on the walls. The cloister has been, to be sure, ruined, built up 289 strong and regional AND MONOGRAPHS WA Y OF S.JAMES An open cloister plainly by restorers, and roofed along the masonry with tiles, but now as always it remains a mere enclosure, a cincture and not a shelter or screen. It is hard to recall a parallel for this. In the ruined cloister of S. Juan de Duero, at Soria, though the alleys are roofless now they had once a timber roof, and the cloister ran around inside an enclosing wall of the Commandery. Only three of the sides at Eunate retain their capitals and their noble coupled shafts: one of these shows Oriental motives, and one perhaps the figures of Templars, the rest interlace, or leaf forms, all of a sort that cannot be earlier than the twelfth century. About this cloister Sr. Lamp6rezT offers an interesting suggestion, starting from the common admission that the circular churches of the Middle Age have a double origin, deriving possibly from Roman temples like that of Minerva Medica and the so-called temple of Vesta on Tiber bank, or else, equally well, from the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, rebuilt by Syrians for the Christians at the end of the seventh HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 291 century. This was from the tenth cen- tury the goal of pilgrims and crusaders, and the Military Orders, born under its shadow, built after its fashion. As has been said already, in the twelfth century (1134) King Alfonso Sanchez in his will invited them to the inheritance of his kingdom of Aragon and Navarre. Their power belongs to the time of Sancho the Wise, 1 1 50-1 194, counting from the founda- tion of Ribaforada in 1157. Supposing, then, that they built a commandery here in the last third of the twelfth century, they had a chance to evoke, in the Spanish up- lands, the Sepulchre to which they were dedicated. Now S. Jerome speaks of an uncovered, concentric atrium which existed around the Holy Tomb, so constructed "not to intercept the space by which the Lord rose into Heaven," and this was preserved in restorations of the seventh, ninth, and eleventh centuries, though it is covered now. If it was already covered by the end of the twelfth century, still the Templars might be familiar with the passage in S. Jerome. This plausible AND MONOGRAPHS Holy Sepulchres The Vir- gin's also 2Q2 WAY OF S.JAMES Virgin of Eunate conjecture would make the arcade now standing, the inner side of a gallery that surrounded the church — which would stand, then, in the centre of a wide cloister garth.2 That there was a whole monas- tery, of many buildings, all round about the present church where now the plough goes, is well known: labourers still turn up the stones and expose the remains of walls and foundations. In 1312 the Templars left Navarre, but their Virgin is still there: unfortunately I did not know of her existence at the time of the v1'sit, and the woman fetched with the keys did not trouble to mention her; as for the priest, he was miles away. Sr. Lamperez compares her with those of Ujue, Villahuerta, and Irache (now in Dicastillo) and considers them all to be of the first third of the thirteenth century. Some other observations of his are of value : for instance, that there is nothing Cister- cian about the place, but it may be com- pared with the eastern end of Leyre and the cloister of S. Pedro la Rua (I should urge that the art is not so finished by far) HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 293 and other constructions of the region. The capitals inside, he says, are all leaf forms (I am not quite sure of this, but most of them are) and to the Corinthian Syro- scheme they unite a Syro-Byzantine man- Byzantine manner ner. He feels that, in the grotesques of the north door, with a fantastic fauna alternate a series of personages that seem meant for priests in hieratic vestments. He traces two hands in the work: the church strong, robust, energetic in orna- mentation, the cloister slimmer and very fine and free in decoration. But the two may well be contemporary. The right name of this strange temple is the Basilica of Auriz. Its picturesque bye-name, Eunate, comes trom two Basque roots, and means "the house of a hundred doors." AND MONOGRAPHS I 294 WAY OF S.JAMES Puente la Reyna. Quan lo rius de la fontana S'esclarzis, si cum far sol, E par la flors aiglentina, El rossinholetz el ram Volfe refranh ez aplana Son dous chantar el afina, So Jauf re Dreitz es qu'ieu lo mieu Rudel refranha: Amors de terra Ion hidana Per vos totz lo cars mi dol; E non puesc trobar me- zina. * Unlike Estella, first mentioned in 1076, and Sanguesa, called into existence as a lower town in 1131, Puente la Reyna is a very ancient place. It was, for sure, before the Moors; it was, perhaps, before the Romans, for it lies on a main road at the crossing of a river; but in importance it ranks simply with those other twelfth century towns which were stages along the track of the pilgrimage. The bridge was the work of Dona Mayor when Sancho III was building the great Way across Navarre, or possibly of her daughter-in-law, Dona Estefania, the queen of Garcia Sanchez, el de Ndjera. The town figures in the reigns I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY of Sancho the Noble and Sancho Ramirez, in the eleventh century, and in 1 1 22 Alfonso el Batallador dowered it well, with privilege of wood cutting and tillage, and water free, "for the desire I have," he wrote, "that here shall come to dwell all peoples, and that they shall make a great and excellent town." When, he wrote that phrase about all peoples, he meant more than Navarrese, or even Spaniards: Lom- bards and Proven gals, Normans and English, Flemings and French, Burgun- dians, Germans and Dutch, Hungarians, Irish, Tuscans and Romans and half Saracen Sicilians, all who passed incessantly on the same journey westward, under the bright stars. The real life of these towns was from the twelfth century to the fifteenth only, and the greatest centuries of the pilgrimage though not the most crowded were the centuries of the Recon- quest, the eleventh, twelfth, and thir- teenth, when Spain was just, as we say, opened up for the rest of Europe, as a fresh field for enterprise. There was a hearing at the capitals and the castles, for poets 295 All peoples AND MONOGRAPHS 296 WAY OF S.JAMES The Peddler's Wallet like Guillermo Aneliers who wrote the Civil War of Pampeluna.2 There was a market for the peddler, with thin silk from Sicily and thick silk from Lyons, or furs from Muscovy and beyond; and at the very core of one of the saddle-bags, safe from a fall on the mountain side or a slip in the ford, something, enamel or jewel, small in size, light in weight, and more precious than the ingot gold. That peddler was your great purveyor of taste. You see him as painted up in S. Isidore of Leon, in the month of May, leading his donkey, in eleven-hundred-something: and again in a background of the Grimani Breviary, at 1500. In May, when the snows were out of the mountain passes and the spring floods had gone down, he set out from Marseilles or Venice or Barcelona, or Toulouse, maybe, or Bruges, where he would have wintered in comfort. He loaded the two beasts which are all one man can manage, with a few things of the very best, with Flemish cloth and linen from the fairs of Troyes. To great ladies he brought a veil of cypress lawn, to great HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY abbots a bone, or enough embroidered stuff to make orphreys for a vestment. 3 To the adventurous youth of Christen- dom, Spain offered a never-ending Cru- sade without the sea passage. In 1085 French knights were enlisted for the siege of Toledo; in 1096 for Huesca, in 1118 for Saragossa, in 1116 for the defense and re-peopling of Tarragona. There were so many Franks at the conquest of Toledo that they gave their name to a quarter; at that of Valencia nine years later, that they left it in streets along the coast-wise- lying towns. There I saw it. Bretons, Aquitanians and Gascons figured in the Aragonese conquest: the Crusader's vow was commuted to the Normans at Tarra- gona; Seville was divided into the streets for Genoese, Franks, etc. The White Com- pany of Du Guesclin, the Black Prince's troops, came and went across the north, and left their wounded sometimes, and car- ried off sometimes their girls. A pilgrimage was only a little less exciting than a crusade, and needed less experience: it could be made during convalescence 297 A never- ending crusade AND MONOGRAPH S 298 WAY OF S.JAMES Messen- gers and students or retrenchment. Monks were always travelling, messengers constantly coming and going between Rome and the great abbeys, great clerics moving on diplomatic business between kings. The circle of European politics suddenly included four more kings at least, as possible husbands for daughters and fathers for queens: the Spanish kings married, so to speak, very widely. Daughters established in strange lands sent home strange folk with gifts and letters ; alien queens in the land brought their households and their ways when they came. Spanish students made their way to Padua and Bologna, to Oxford, and above all to Paris, where the College of Navarre was founded in 1304. On the tramp they took in as much of the world as could be embraced; other nations by the thirteenth century came to Seville and Irache, and in Barcelona the B. Ramon Lull lectured to four thousand students. Clerks came down either to get learning from the Arabs in the south and east, or to pick up the scraps in the northern towns as these were retaken. Monks came HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY across the Pyrenees in hungry droves, and settled down in the plains of Castile and Aragon like grackles in a cornfield. The best of them intended to sit by a king's shoulder: the least of them could count on a grange or a mill. Where churches and castles were building, and convents and whole cities, labour must automatically move, workmen must press, sure of good wages and steady work. Where great crowds are assembled, vast numbers con- gested or in motion, there you will find the vermin that like close lying, warm sitting, thieves, robbers, pickpockets; also the pro- fessional cheat, or confidence man; and the relic-monger. So, too, the huge and shift- ing company will take kindly to diversion, and give up to the professional entertainer an honest livelihood, one fairly earned. Puente la Reyna would be full of fiddlers, story tellers and jongleurs, and many of the same occupation as S. Mary of Egypt. Police duty would not be light in such a place. The town was in the hands of the Templars from 1 146 until they were ruined, and they were succeeded by the Knights 299 Monks Profession- al enter- tainers AND MONOGRAPHS 300 WAY OF S.JAMES Knights of S. John of S. John. These, both, were soldiers and were monks, they ensured discipline and military justice, which has the great virtue of certainty. Their church, El Crucifijo,4 was not finished till after 1487, under John II. The chancellor of Navarre, D. Juan de Beaumont, in 1448 founded, with Papal approbation, a Hospital of Frailes Com- mendadores of his order, in the place where the Templars had kept one for the pilgrims going to Santiago de Galicia, it being then ruined by wars and calamities of time past. To celebrate the solemn foundation a provincial chapter was held in Olite, to preside at which the Grand Master sent a special representative, and to magnify which Eugenius IV gave many graces and indulgences. These included the faculty for a confraternity of three hundred mem- bers, whose alms should sustain the hospice. The king himself and his son the prince of Viana were members. Sir John Beau- mont, who was Grand Prior of the order as well as institutor of this Confraternity of the Crucified, desired to be buried in their HISPANIC NOTES THE WA Y church, but at the time of his death in 1487 it was not finished, and only in 1577 were the bones moved thither. Today the church is ruined, between the restorations of wealth and the destructions of war: the tombs survived down to 1836. It would seem from the description preserved and the recollections of old men in the yo's and 8o's, that it was in some way influenced by that of Charles the Noble. Standing in the Cap ilia Mayor, on the Gospel side, it was fashioned ot choice alabaster, with a kneeling effigy likewise of alabaster and an epitaph in rather bad Spanish verse, but the urn or sarcophagus was adorned round about with figures recalling the great lord's burial : priests, the celebrant, deacon and sub-deacon, the sacristan and acolytes with candles. This may, of course, be the description of one of those long ceremo- nials that in the fifteenth century filled the niche in which a tomb was set. Through- out the northeast of Spain, at the tomb of Mosse"n Frances de Villa Espesa, in Tudela, at that of Bishop Lope de Luna in Saragossa, on fragments of others in the Museum at 301 A ruined sepulchre AND MONOGRAPHS 302 WAY OF S.JAMES The Crucified Lerida, you find them. But, considering the position, it may well be that an altar tomb like those at Dijon and Pampeluna was ordered and commenced and that in the sixteenth century the family, at the time of translation, completed it with a more fashionable sort of effigy. The pointed south door of El Crucifijo survives, though wasted by weather. Three shafts in the jamb are patterned over with knops and other diapers: the capitals were apparently in the style of some at S. Miguel of Estella and at Eunate, a sort of interlace with creatures caught in the creepers. The abaci have a leaf pattern or entrelacs. Of the archivolts: the in- most order is of these very fine entrelacs that recall, in their spirit and felicity, the work at Bari by the eastern sea, and Trani that great entrep6t of the Crusaders. In the next order is a pattern that I have not seen elsewhere and that resembles nothing but the crimped curls of butter that come in with your coffee and croissants in France, but whereas those are incredibly thin, these are rather solid, almost like the half of a HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 303 fluted spindle. Follows, in repetition, an elaborate complete ornament made out of the honeysuckle: then a row of gro- tesques, some leaf, some animal forms, pine cones, an angel, a head, beasts and birds, harpies, and birds pecking; lastly, a large leaf for the dripstone. Sr. Lampe'rez suggests5 that the carvings are imitated from Byzantine ivories. The archivolts are, excepting the row of grotesques, quite unlike anything else that I know in the region, and those grotesques are unlike in detail, though in method of application similar, to those at Leyre and Aulnay. The artisan copied such forms as fell under his hand and applied them as he was used; the sculpture of the jambs, though cunning and over-refined, is in a style disused else- where after the Romanesque age, or at any rate after the transitional style, and it is well to have the dated example. At the church of Santiago, in the heart ot the new town, the western door is very plain, with a round arch, early Gothic capitals, and the chrism in the tympanum. The south door, however, is magnificent Oriental carvings Santiago AND MONOGRAPHS 304 The two Wrongs Days of Creation WAY OF S.JAMES and full of delight, though cruelly worn by weather, especially on its western half. The jambs are of a style to be found at Estella, where five shafts are separated and flanked by others much slenderer, topped each with a human head. The richly carved abacus and storied capitals are carried in a continuous band fr,om the face of the door all the way across the buttresses that flank the entire portal. On the face of the east buttress this band is filled by three lions, on the west by four syrens or harpies; the style is like that of the latest decorative work at Sanguesa but much finer. They represent probably, for all their beauty, the two great Wrongs: sins of Wrath, the lions; sins of Desire, the harpies. Above this on the western buttress is a headless relief of a man fighting a lion that symbol- izes the strife of soul and body; that on the ease is too worn to decipher. There is no tympanum; the round arch of the doorway is deeply cusped and the face of it carved with a series of seven medallions or scrolls of the days of crea- tion. In the archivolts, the innermost row HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY contains chiefly birds, and the next gro- tesques: the outer ones, Scriptural scenes: a pair of prophets, the Visitation, the Announcement to the Shepherds, and Flight into Egypt, the Epiphany, Herod and the Kings, the Massacre. Cruelly wasted, but still fair, it is all late and rich pictorial sculpture. I should not dare to suppose that it was earlier than the second half of the thirteenth century. In justice it should be said that Sr. Madrazo6 wanted to give it to the time of Sancho the Wise or Sancho the Strong, a hundred years before this, at the same time referring the forms of the portal to the contemporary style of Poitou and Saintonge. In any case it is older than the church, which was built completely over in the fifteenth century, probably under Charles the Noble, who reared himself pleasure palaces here, with bosques and parks. In 1410 Simon L6pez was master of the works at the castle. 7 Of the workmen or the work on the church, we know nothing. Very high and wide, of a single span, the vaulting rests not on columns but on the semicircular inner 305 Scenes of the Infancy AND MONOGRAPHS 306 WAY OF S.JAMES Inward- jutting buttresses S. Pedro face of buttresses of which the projection is inward, into the body of the church. This is the practice at Albi and other places in the south of France, and over the border, at Irun and S. Sebastian. The space be- tween the buttresses is regularly vaulted over in a narrow bay, to form lateral chap- els: the transept is deeper than these; the portal opens out of the last bay on the south : a rococo retable blocks the apse and a still more rococo organ the western gallery. There is a third church, S. Pedro, plain on the outside, with a western door rather like that of Santiago and an interior of the latest of the fifteenth century. In the twelfth century the townsmen of Murula- barren, attracted by the advantages which D. Alfonso el Batallador and D. Garcia el Restaurador had offered, migrated hither en masse and settled in the quarter of S. Pedro; they may have built this church. For some reason, Cisneros spared the fortifications of Puente, and the hugeous wall,8 built against and into, brown and high, looms behind the sycamores of a HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY shabby Paseo which gets nothing from the river, not even a view of the beautiful Queen's Bridge. Inside, the streets are narrow, and the children ignorant and wretched — the worst crowd, perhaps, that a woman alone had ever to deal with. The woman in question was driven to earth at last in the Town Hall, ringing the bell there very much in the temper of the poor old horse who nibbled the straw rope in the famous story and sounded the appeal for justice. The town clerks and council- lors were all at home and asleep in the long noon, but a frank old woman, who lived in the tower, was persuaded for a while to lend a chair, a kitten and some attention. She felt it not only natural but laudable that children on seeing a woman alone should assume she was dissipated (borracha was the word), and hustle and hoot her, and after a bit, growing sleepy herself, and having run through all her family history and that of her husband's relatives, she wanted to lock up, and sent the strange woman packing. By this hour, however, the children were in school, under the 307 " Company with honesty"... AND MONOGRAPHS 308 WAY OF S.JAMES Padres Escolapios charge of the quaintly named Padres Escolapios, so that it was possible to escape to a bench under the dusty sycamores, and to wait there for the returning diligence. Government schools are said to teach something about a common humanity, and manners toward the outlander; where only parish and Jesuit schools are found, they wot not of such things. When the diligence came, it had not a vacant seat: the driver and conductor, undisturbed, recommended not as an alter- native but as the only action, sleeping at Puente and taking that which would pass early the next morning. One had no night things, one could not believe that any inn might be tolerable, one simply didn't see how, at the end of a long day, to walk the ten miles or more to Estella, but certainly one was not going back like an abandoned cat to the hooting and hustling children of those streets. As a last resort, the woman alone became a lonely woman, very pitiful — afraid to sleep in a strange place by her- self, afraid to leave a timorous Jehane by herself overnight in Estella. Incontinent, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 309 four strapping Navarrese lads packed them- selves into the space provided by sta- tute for three, and in contentment that amounted almost to hilarity, the dili- gence swept on to Estella. For this un- expected repudiation of law, decency, and invariable Spanish practice, may places be found hereafter for the driver, the conductor, and the four Navarrese, among the blessed. £1 Sepulcro. Happy day and mighty hour, When our shepherd, in his power. Mailed and horsed, with lance and sword, To his ancestors restored, Like a re-appearing Star, Like a glory from ajar First shall head the flock of war! At about the same distance from Estella in the opposite direction lies another ex- ample of the same rare type of church as Eunate, finer and more splendid, albeit unknown. El Sepulcro of Torres, octago- nal, has dome and lantern, projecting apse, and separate staircase turret intact. The AND MONOGRAPHS I 310 'Bosomed high in tufted trees " WAY OF S.JAMES Logrono road curls around a hill-set city, and then in a wide curve sweeps down steeply to the shallow river valley: and thence you look across to Torres on the ascending hill, and catch the sun on lantern tower and arcaded sides. Travellers, on the other hand, approaching from Viana, may see from the post-road the tower reared above thick trees, and guess what must sustain it. Yet the church, unknown to Madrazo, remains such, undivined-by Sr. Lamperez; a French ecclesiologist, it is said, driving through the country eight or ten years ago, before private motors had grown general, saw, and stopped to see more and to photograph, and was much molested by the crowding curious children. They are indeed tiresome as gnats, but not bad- hearted, except one boy, cross-eyed and cross-spirited; and their elders rebuked and dispersed them a dozen times, but al- ways they gathered again, filling the open doorway of the empty church, and blotting out the patch of sunlight on the floor. While the stranger who so intrigued them was taking measurements and photographs, HISPANIC NOTES El Sepulcro THE WAY the Mayor arrived and exchanged a few civil phrases, likewise a tall spare person all in cool linen clothes, the richest there- abouts. He supplied the recollection of the earlier passer-by, who can only, in conjec- ture, figure as M. Bertaux. Down at the inn on the post-road, friendly folk kept deli- cately out of the way, and the traveller lunched alone, and alone awaited, over a novel, the evening coach to return, without so much to bear as a curious glance from the hall: with only a murmur of voices quiet as summer flies, reading and dis- cussing the newspaper that she had brought down that morning by chance. Oh, the courtesy of these small Spanish places, so conscious yet so sure! Just because it is not spontaneous and necessary and per- sonal, as in Tuscany, it tastes the sweeter. Here the landlord still feels himself the host, and the traveller the guest. The pretty daughter of the house, who served the table, was found in calico at the early arrival, and dressed herself in serge for dinner, and dressed her black hair, and craved pardon because the cares of house 313 Spanish courtesy versus Tuscan HISPANIC NOTES WAY OF S.JAMES A little in history and kitchen prevented her sitting down to entertain. The same careful grace marked the gentle hunchbacked postman who had fetched the key and opened the church; after his round with letters, he came back prepared to remain as escort or depart as interruption, with no will except to know the other 's wish . The day would have been sweet enough with human pleasantness, apart from the sportsman's zest in hunting churches and finding such game. The town of Torres figures a little in history, like any other: near the road there was in old times a monastery, and the church attached to it, of very good and firm architecture, which D. Ximeno Galin- dez gave to Irache in noo. l The parish church, which is dedicated to S. Peter, has only a small establishment. When in 1134 Alfonso el Batallador left his kingdom by will to the three Orders of the Hospital, the Temple and the Holy Sepulchre,2 the Canon Giraldo, who was sent over to take possession in the name of the third, was unluckily sir clerk and not sir knight, and the Order consequently in Spain HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 315 was ecclesiastical and not chivalrous. In The Order 1141 the Patriarch and Chapter in Jerusa- of the Holy lem ceded their claims on the kingdom, and Sepulchre received in return from Ramon Berenguer territory and vassals to found a church in Calatayud, next to the Mozarabic quarter. Alfonso VII of Castile took a liking to the Order while he held Calatayud, and intro- duced it into his dominions, giving it pro- perty in Toro and Zamora; in Salamanca, the church known now as S. Cristobal; in Segovia, that dedicated to Vera Cruz3 and wrongfully assigned to the Templars which was dedicated in 1208. In Logrono the same canon Gerard, who founded the church of S. Mary at Calatayud, founded a church and chapter: the King had given his palace there to the Order, and this will be 6". Maria del Palacio. In Aragon, there were houses also at Borja and Huesca, and in Catalonia the Colegiata of S. Ana; there were houses in Valencia and Mallorca. Of the two nuns' houses, that in Saragossa still exists, and these Comendadoras are the only living members of the Order in Comenda- doras the world. I can find no mention of a AND MONOGRAPHS I 3i6 WAY OF S.JAMES lArriba, canes, arriba! daughter house at Torres, but this is not evidence that there was none: a document ot 1303 is signed by Fr. Joanne Petri de Torres, among other witnesses, and the same Fray Juan Perez of Torres was Prior in the years 1385 to 1391. In 1489 the military orders of the Holy Sepulchre and of S. Lazarus of Bethlehem and Nazareth were suppressed and their goods made over to that of S. John, by Pope Innocent VIII in the Bull, Cum solerti meditatione. The Bull was not everywhere well received; in Aragon it was ignored. I find the Prior of Calatayud exercising jurisdiction spiritual and temporal in the early sixteenth century, over the five towns that still belonged to the Order lin Aragon?]: Nuevales, Tobed, Torralba de los Frailes, Codos, and S. Cruz de Tobed. Torres, however, is in Navarre, and La Fuente says explicitly that the Order had two provinces and by the same token celebrated chapters. 4 The Prior of Calatayud took precedence, and called himself sometimes Grand Prior. His church was begun ii44,s consecrated HISPANIC NOTES THE WA Y 317 first in 1156, finished and again conse- crated i249.6 In consequence of the dates, fixed by the Baptistery at Parma, at the beginning of the thirteenth century, and the Crusade King Ty- balt in the under Theobald of Navarre, in Anatolia Taurus and the Taurus, in the second quarter, the church of S. Sepulchre at Torres must be assigned to a time well along in the thir- teenth century. The wall arcade outside is pointed; noble columns run the full height at every angle ; noble windows fill the centre of each bay in the stage above and admit light through pierced stone tracery into the interior; two windows under the wall ribs flank the apse. The door is a low round arch, a third of a circle, with the Patri- archal cross carved on the tympanum, with the hood-moulding carved in dog- tooth, and a leaf on the abacus at the jamb. 7 Shafts and capitals are lost. The corbels under the roof are fluted in four scallops, horizontally, the nearest thing to this being the supports of the cornice at AND MONOGRAPHS I WAY OF S.JAMES Celanova also Cuenca and Fr6mista Celanova, where the Mozarabic work goes back to the ninth or tenth century. The cornice is a shallow hollow in which lie balls, — a Romanesque motive in Spain, already seen about Jaca and on the way to S. Juan de la Pena. The lantern, floored and blocked up, like that of S. Cruz de la Ser6s, has a small, round-headed window in each face and a column with blunt capital at each corner, a heavy cornice, and a door that opens on the western side, to which lead steps from the staircase tower. This lantern and the access to it resemble probably those originally at S. Martin of Fromista. The roof, like that of Eunate, consists of heavy slabs of stone, now well sunk in mortar. It carried once a stone cross over all, but that being destroyed not long since by a thunder- storm, a clock was set in, of which the face occupies the south wall, and the weights hang down, outside, in the north-west angle between church and tower. Inside, a low stone bench runs all around, and the shafts of the lower range have disappeared, but their capitals, billet HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 319 moulded, project from a string course of the same pattern, and on these descend the upper columns. Outside and inside, the church has a tripartite division marked by horizontal lines: without, one crosses at the springing of the wall arch, and the other at the sills of the windows: within, one at the point where the arch of the apse springs, and the other where the dome-ribs and the vault begin. The capitals of the upper range are varied: an oriental rosette of whorls, a centaur, a formal pattern based on the honeysuckle, pine cones, a leaf pattern based on the acanthus, network, leaf and pine cone, leaves in two rows forming a rich and broken pattern. It is vaulted with ribs that pass across and leave an open star at the centre: these come down on the shafts just named, at the corners, and on corbels fluted like those without, in the middle of each side. This sort of vault Street saw in a chapel of the cloister at Salamanca, and the present writer saw in one at Las Huelgas. It is Mude"jar: the workmen may have come from the Mozarabic quarter of Calatayud, Capitals and vaults AND MONOGRAPHS 320 WAY OF S. TAMES Mozarabic and Templar or from elsewhere: in 1211, a certain Miguel de Burgana gave to the Prior and the Canons a Saracen slave that he had in Gotor.8 In the vault appear eight tiny windows of pierced stone, crowned with Muddjar cusping like some at Toledo, and by tabernacles, "heavenly Jerusalems" like those of the school of Chartres. The same sort of tabernacle reappears on a capital at Sangtiesa, which belonged to S. John of the Hospital, at Villasirga, which was a Templar's church, at Carri6n close by, and at Moarbes copied from Carrion, but these are not the only instances, even along the way. In the case of Sangiiesa, Torres, and Villasirga, it may refer to the earthly Jerusalem, of which the lords in ome sense all were knights. At theentrance to the sanctuary, where under a pointed arch a section of pointed barrel-vault pre- cedes the semi-dome, stand two columns with wellmoulded bases and storied capitals : on the north, the Deposition in a form that seems copied from Master Benedetto's at Parma,9 on the south, the empty Sepulchre left after the Resurrection, as at Aries. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY The design on the abacus I do not under- stand, unless it was imitated from metal work. In the upper part of the two bays nearest the apse, windows open, their jamb shafts duly storied in the Romanesque vein. Here, then, is oddly assorted matter, gathered up by the side of the Way: capi- tals derived from Greek, from Roman, from Romanesque, and from Oriental sources, handiwork recalling Mude"jar, French, and Italian artizans. The re- miniscence of Parma might seem far- fetched, on the writer's part, or fortuitous on the sculptor's, were it not for another still more striking at Estella, in the Last Supper of S. Sepulcro there. Thus it falls into place, and clinches the link already forged, in old records, of pilgrims passing along the great routes. It is possible that whoever brought the design of the Deposi- tion, brought also the way of building, having seen Master Benedetto's Baptistery, commenced in 1196, well under way; and, though simplifying, imitated the structure. One more note : I recall at this moment only two places in which a window is pierced at 321 Sources AND MONOGRAPHS 322 WAY OF S.JAMES Another pilgrim- "Iconium's turban 'd Soldan"... the point where a plane is tangential to a curved wall: these are, the apses in the Terra di Bari, at Bitonto and Bari, for in- stance, and these windows in the dome of the Sepulcro. Now all that Terra di Bari was full of pilgrims and crusaders, arriving and departing; Trani was an important sea- port. Straight through it ran the road to Brindisi. Lombard builders and French were there: Roland too; the knights, Oli- ver, Archbishop Turpin, and all the Chan- son de Roland on the cathedral pavement. Though there are examples in the high- lands of Asia Minor, recorded by Miss Lowthian Bell, of the apse- windows, I am not aware that this particular architectural device in domes is oriental: if it was in- vented in Italy, returning travellers might bring it with them; if in the Anatolian plateau, then the Crusaders of Navarre. Their trobador king Theobald, who had embarked with them at Marseilles in 1239, led them straight into the Taurus to fight the Soldan of Iconium. T ° The road into France ran by Parma, Borgo S. Donnino, and Modena, and the road from France HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 323 to Santiago passed near S. Cruz and S. Juan de la Pena, through lands certainly of the latter. So this exotic church need not be fetched like the Holy House of Loreto, through the air: there is a good road all the way. A good road AND MONOGRAPHS I 324 WA Y OF S.JAMES VI TOWN CHURCHES Arga, Ega y Aragon, fazen d Ebro varon. IN the midst of vineyard and olive- garth, with noble approaches and skilful gradients, the road runs fast, past Puente la Reyna and Cirauqui, down to Estella on the Ega. After you have crossed the Queen's Bridge, there is a great patch of green and bosky mountain-side to get around by long white loops of road, but for the most of the way, little towns lie close: Maneru, where ancient houses stand about a mountain stream, and which be- longed as early as the thirteenth century to S. John of Jerusalem, and as late as the sixteenth paid heavy taxes to el Crucifijo, just back there on the road : Cirauqui, that I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY climbs surprisingly up the rock and rears a church portal reddish brown like porphyry, pointed and cusped and rtpousst with innumerable mouldings, ' two church towers further away ennobling the steep streets. By Lorca the grey of olives hangs like smoke over the brown soil; Lacar huddles among low vineyards; in other towns unnamed a flat mail-bag is dropped or a letter snatched, without stopping, from a waiting woman. After Villatuerta, twice burned in the Middle Age, the road de- clines into the softer valley of the Ega, where fruit-trees dispute the enclosure with grape and olive, and the retreating hillsides are terraced into gardens. The Ega, green like a Swiss torrent and flecked with white, draws the road swiftly up its course and past a straggling suburb of mills and tanneries, over which towers the Aposlolado of S. Sepulchre: at last the road broadens and pauses at Estella. The phrase used regularly for these towns is the just one, they are situated on the old road, that is to say alongside it. A French highway, as you follow it, runs 325 Little towns AND MONOGRAPHS 326 High street WAY OF S. JAMES into a village and out again, and the High Street of English towns is often a segment merely of the line stretched from sea to sea. But here the little towns draw their walls about them, and lock out the passing troops, the tramping pilgrims : even where, as at Estella, a suburb throve on the farther bank of the river, still there was a clear track left for the road and those upon it, against which gates could be barred. When Sancho Ramirez was building the Pilgrims' Road he determined that it should pass thereby and a town be estab- lished. The monks of S. Juan de la Pena held a place less than a league off, Zarapur by name, and they wanted the road to go their way and bring traffic and custom of sorts. The story reads like the early history of railways, in the intrigues and pressure brought to bear. The king won, after a fashion, the road passes through Estella, but he had to yield to the monks what tithes and churches were just coming into being, and a tenth of the royal rights. As late as 1174 the abbey was adjusting HISPANIC NOTES The Thursday Market in Estella THE WAY matters with the Bishop of Pampeluna, and keeping in its own hands the control of S. Miguel and S. Sepulcro, while S. Pedro la Rua remained as always a direct depen- dency. Sancho the Wise, when he founded the church of S. John and peopled its parish, gave it to another monastery — Irache. After that things went easier: townsfolk bought rights for themselves, — that Thursday market under Jehane's window they purchased from Theobald 1. 2 A sweet place it is, and a comfortable, the burgher using always to sleep soft and feed high. Aymery Picaud stayed there, and liked the cooking : he praised the bread, the fish, the wine. We stayed there long, in the Casa de Gorgonio that outlanders would call the Hotel Comercio, where the son of the house is a heaven-born cook, and about whose ceufs a la Bgckamel Jehane still feels as felt Aymery about the fish. The house was clean, kind, and quiet. We had choice, on arriving, of two dining- rooms: whether to eat at a little table quite alone in the room except when motor-people stopped for luncheon or dinner and hurried 329 Thursday market HISPANIC NOTES 330 WAY OF S.JAMES Mesa redonda on, or for a lesser price, at the long table, which Spaniards idiomatically call mesa redonda, partake of the identical meal served hotter. There we elected to practise Spanish and good manners. On the rare occasions above mentioned it accom- modated the chauffeur at the other end, but he looked as a rule more interesting than his employers, and had always more to tell that was wanted about roads and distances, inns and connexions. The upper town, called Lygara, was peopled by Sancho Ramirez at the end of the eleventh century with francos — which may mean free men and may mean French- men, i. e., subjects from the north side of the Pyrenees. El Parral, the vine-garth around S. Miguel, was constituted by Sancho the Wise in 1187, who gave the same rights as other freemen enjoyed on condition of a sort of ground-rent. In the same year he had founded the church of S. John on the Sands, in the river-side place called el Arenal, in which the Jews congregated. This he gave to the monastery of Irache. The town was reduced under a HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY single government only in 1266, by the Frenchman Theobald I. The Jews, who had enjoyed by the laws of Navarre liberty of person and property, were under the same king driven out of their quarter; they gathered in the steep streets around the castle, and walled their Ghetto, which however was sacked with slaughter in 1322 under the direction of a Franciscan friar Pedro Olligorzdn. In 1329 the townsfolk again sacked the Ghetto, though walled and gated: the land where it stood still lies waste. Later on, when in 1492 the Jews were expelled from Castile and Aragon, the queen and king of Navarre, Catherine and Jean de Labrit, wrote to the governing body of Estella to give the exiled Jews free passage and aid, and "give settlement in Estella to as many as possible, for they are a docile people, easily subject to reason." In the end, unfortunately, the king of Navarre had to yield to the general up- roar and the fixed policy of the Catholic Kings, and the Jews had to move on. The truth of course is that in the first place they were too prosperous, and in the 331 Jew- baiting AND MO NOGR APRS 332 WAY OF S.JAMES Burgos, Bruges, and Estella second place the feuds between Francos and Navarros had been patched up that year of 1329, and the town had need of blood. It is said that ten thousand died at this time in Estella alone. The town, naturally, throve. When after the battle of Salado the value of gold fell by one-sixth in consequence of the quantity of precious metal in the booty taken, the old chroni- cles state that the effect of this was felt in the markets of Burgos, Bruges, and Estella, these being the greatest trading centres. As early as 1254 the tabla de cambio of Estella was universal, or nearly. The rich merchants filled up, in the thir- teenth and fourteenth century, the streets that the Jews had built above the river- side, and they built them a church de- dicated to S. Salvador del Arenal. Early in 1264, Theobald I had given to the Dominicans the church of All Saints on the hillside above, which had been a synagogue till Garcia Ramirez el Restau- rador gave it to the Bishop of Pampeluna. Commerce flourished. Alfonso of Cas- tile, 61 de las Na-vas, on February i, 1205, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY gave to the merchants of Estella the right to traffic in all his realms and lordships, without any person's impeding them, and Jaime I el Conquistador, in midsummer of 1254, gave them the right of trade and contract in all his realms under royal protection. The merchants had the best of it at Estella, but at times they had suffered, like those elsewhere, under the feet of their betters. In 1206 Sancho the Strong gave the city to the Lord of Vizcaya, D. Diego L6pez de Haro: he entrenched himself in the castle and thence made raids into Castile. During the wars of Charles the Bad, the men of Castile lifted the cattle, and burned the palaces and houses, but in 1390 a privilege of Charles the Noble gave the town equal rights with Pampe- luna. The fueros of Estella are often quoted as a sort of norm of liberty. In spite of the Castilian raids and the flood of 1475, when the river Ega rose and destroyed half the city and that the best, the palace of the Dukes of Granada still remains one ot the few grand examples of 333 D. Diego L6pez de Haro AND MONOGRAPHS 334 WAY OF S.JAMES Domestic Roman- esque domestic Romanesque. The carved capi- tals of the great columns have the vigour and fire of the cloister at Soria. Other palaces also, fallen from their high estate, line the winding street that leads to the church of the Sepulchre. The castle was destroyed by the jealousy of Cisneros. The luxury of the fifteenth century is reflected in sumptuary legislation of Charles the Noble. A pragmatic says: — "Inas- much as the King is certified that the principal cause of the poverty of the city consists in the excessive dressing and ostentation of the ladies and other women, he ordains, taking example from ancient princes and from the kings of Castile and Aragon, that the said ladies of Estella shall not be so bold as to wear upon them either gold or silver, in chains or garlands, or in any other thing excepting girdles and buttons of white silver, ungilt, and, if they desire, on the sleeves only. Further, that they may not wear pearls nor precious stones, orphreys nor toques, nor buttons where there is a gold thread, nor furs of gris, except, in the long sleeves, trimming HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 335 of otter the width of half a skin, and the purfles of the front of a mantle a finger broad of ermine, no more, nor wear scar- let cloth nor clothes of gold or silk. . . . Licence, however, is given to wear clothes already made till they are worn out but not to make new. Item, this ordinance applies also to the Jews."3 Not only were there French-born sub- jects filling the quarters of Estella, there were French shrines. Sancho the Strong in 1 201 built and endowed a sanctuary for Our Lady of Rocamadour , just about at the time when the church of S. Pedro la Rua was building too. He had had a bad time in Africa, and once safe home, he gave to the Monastery of S. Mary of Rocamadour, on the road of the pilgrims as you go out of Estella, twenty-three moneys of gold in perpetuity, charged on royal rights in the Old Slaughter-house, and eighteen more charged on the mills of Villatuerta. Of this, thirty-nine was for lights for the Virgin's altar, for his own soul's good and his parents'; of the other two, for incense one, the other for a preacher on certain A sumptu- ary prag- matic AND MONOGRAPHS 336 WAY OF S.JAMES Fueros de Navarra The Mountain Mother feasts. The ancient fueros of Navarre re- cognized Rocamadour as a privileged place of pilgrimage, like Rome, Jerusalem, S. James, and Overseas, and protected debtors during a fortnight's absence: " Ata que tiempo non deve ser peyndrado omne que va en romeria. Nui ynfanzon que va en romeria non deve ser peyndrado ata que" torne. Si va a S. Jaime deve ser segure un mes; a Rocamador XV dias; a Roma III meses; a Oltramar un aynno; a Iherusalem un aynno et un dia."4 Across the river and up the hill, the shrine of Notre Dame du Puy is referred by pious tradition to a miraculous apparition of stars in 1085. It is more likely that the devotion came from the greater Virgin of the same name in Velay, whose shrine was flourishing at that date and lay on a pilgrim route, and whose Bishop in the tenth century had gone to S. James. The miraculous image may be of the thirteenth century. There are only two documents, in the archives of the city, that bear upon the church: in one, dated 1386, Charles the Noble acknowl- edges the gift of some mills from Mossen HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Pedro Godillo, Prior of S. Mary of the Peak (S. Maria del Puig); in the other, dated 1174, the Bishop of Pampeluna gives the church of Puy to the seventy members of the brotherhood of Santiago on condi- tion of their paying three maravedis to the Bishop and his successors. The officers of this confraternity included in 1322, D. Benedict of Limoges; and their goods, and those of the Confraternity of Nuestra Senora de Salas, were in the hands of Frenchmen as trustees: Jean Pate, Dean of Chartres, Hugon de Visac, and Alphonse Robray, for "it was not intended that the said goods nor any part of them, should be put in the power of our lord the King."5 For the great churches we hold no docu- ments, and must read as we may, from the stones, of their buildings and rebuildings. About 1200 is the date accepted for the cloister of S. Pedro la Rua, and the church itself, with well-pointed arches, can hardly be earlier. It lies so nearly at the top of a steep hill, that the west end runs blindly up into a tower, and down into buttresses and substructures, and the main doorway 337 S. Mary of the Peak S. Peter Roadside AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES Portal occupies the second bay on the north, another opposite, of pure early Gothic, admitting to the hill-crowning cloister. The pointed arches of the north door are decorated with patterns, billet, dog-tooth, and various chevrons, spirals and diapers, without a tympanum; the arch curiously cusped like that of Cirauqui. On the shafts in the jambs the capitals are partly deco- rated with leaf forms, and partly with very oriental motives: two bearded griffins a/rontt on one jamb, and on the other a mermaid holding her two tails, a centaur shooting at her, and a superb pair of woman- sphinxes, crowned, with strong curved wings and dragon tails. The church, of three aisles, without a transept, consists of three bays only, with a western gallery and the Coro under it. In the last bay of the north aisle, which is pinched off at the corner above the steep hillside, stands an early retable with a gold ground. The nave has a star-vault of the sixteenth century, the aisles a strong quad- ripartite vault with moulded ribs and large carved bosses, that show S. Stephen stoned, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 339 S. Andrew as Bishop blessing, the Agnus Dei, etc. The piers, once cylindrical with four attached columns, are most of them spoilt. The sanctuary is raised eight steps, a rare feature in Spain outside of Catalonia and rather Italian-seeming. It is hard to see a reason here, where no tomb or shrine occupies a crypt, unless in mere imitation. The apses have a bay of barrel-vault, and then a semi-dome : those on the sides open upon the central by arches like tomb re- cesses; the central, arcaded within and without, has in addition three deep niches which on the outside barely show as inter- calated buttresses below the fine Gothic corbels that sustain the cornice, but with- in constitute true apsidioles. In brief, the plan of this apse is French; it corre- sponds to that of Souillac, which lies only two hours' walk from Rocamador. The church still keeps, besides its relic of S. Andrew fetched from Patras, a Ma- donna of Mercy; a fine stone statue of the late thirteenth century, of a Bishop prob- ably S. Andrew; and a fifteenth century wooden figure of S. Peter, quite delightful. Apse AND MONOGRAPHS 340 WAY OF S. JAMES Of the cloister, timber-rooted, only two sides are standing: by accounts of the ruin it seems they have been repaired within Cloisters a generation. The northern walk, along the church, has storied capitals and the western, leaf forms or oriental creatures. Here are the sphinxes and manticores and estriches and antelopes that Spain in the twelfth century received from Asian lands. The great capitals on the coupled shafts are historied all around, commencing all on the garden side. Beginning here at the eastern end, they read on as follows: The first, finest of all, is very Byzan- tine : on the narrow sides the Harrowing of Hell and Christ as Gardener, on the broader, the Entombment and Maries at Figured on p. 349 the Tomb; the Sepulchre itself, a dome with curtains and a hanging lamp, the carved sarcophagus, set high on four legs, and in the last scene, half open, the winding-sheet hanging over as at Aries, the angels sweeping down with censers, are all of more loveliness, softer yet more poignant, than Europe then produced ungrafted. I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 341 2. The three kings on horseback before Herod; he talks to soldiers and they bring him babies' heads; the Massacre. 3. The Annunciation; Visitation and Presentation; Announcement to Shep- herds; and Epiphany. 4. Soldiers fight a lion and a griffin, and savages fight on the broad faces, men and lions on the narrower. 5. History of S. Vincent. 6. History of S. Andrew, including In the city his interview with devils. of the 7. History of S. Andrew's dealings Man- Eaters with the proconsul, one Egeas, including his preaching, judgement, and martyr- dom when he said "If I doubted the gibbet of the cross I would not preach the glory thereof."6 8. Saintly story, I think the close of S. Andrew's legend. 9. Corner: nine shafts in all, with leaf motives, of a kind that occur at Soria and in the oldest cloister at Las Huelgas. On the western side the devices, as I said, are very oriental, including birds, AND MONOGRAPHS I 342 WAY OF S. JAMES Entirely oriental S. Michael on a Mount 1117 long-necked and twisted, what the elder English called mantigers, birds pecking, head to head or back to back, sphinxes kissing, small lions regardant above leaves of honeysuckle. These are very like some at Silos; they are quite unlike the Ro- manesque motives that came through France and may be seen at Fontevrault, S. Eutropius of Saintes, S. Juan de la Pefia and S. Pedro of Soria. It cannot be said too strongly that they are not in the least French, even in the sense in which the word is used of the portal of S. Miguel. Though round-arched, this great door of S. Miguel belongs at earliest to the begin- ning of the thirteenth century, the porch enclosing it to the fourteenth or fifteenth. The earliest part, probably, is the row of eight apostles and prophets, who cannot have been intended for the place in which they now stand, on either side the arch. They appear to be copied trom the Prophets at Cremona. It seems indeed as though they must have been designed for just such a grand row as that at Cremona, which was HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY perhaps imitated later at S. Sepulcro of Estella. Next comes the doorway proper, with the capitals of the jamb shafts, the tympanum, and the sculptured archivolts. Here also appear traces of a pentimiento, for the figures do not quite attain the just centre, in the successive rows, and for the four and twenty elders there is not space enough to accommodate three couples who are tucked into the spandrel spaces outside. Latest, and of finer and more sensitive work, are the great sculptures that flank the jambs, of angels killing the dragon and weighing the souls, and talking with the Maries at the tomb. None of this work recalls in the least that of Toulouse. The iconography of the scene last mentioned is that of Provence. Now precisely from Aries and S. Gilles came the great rectangu- lar sculptured slabs, adapted by workmen of the school of Toulouse to use in the Cloister at Silos. This work was known at Estella, where the cloister of S. Pedro was under way, and the slabs were adapted by some inventive master to the facade on either side the door, possibly with knowl- 343 Angelical activities AND MONOGRAPHS 344 WAY OF S.JAMES edge of what Master Nicholas had done, in the same way, at S. Zeno of Verona. In the tympanum you have Christ amid the tetramorph, between SS. Mary and Icono- John Evangelist ; a solemn majestic Christ graphy seated within a beautiful four-lobed man- dorla, His book marked with the chrism. In the archivolts, row by row, are ranged all the company of heaven : i. Six censing angels ; 2. Eighteen of the twenty-four elders, crowned and making music, the other six, as said, being placed elsewhere ; 3. Ten prophets with scrolls; 4 and 5. Groups illustrating saintly legends — S. Martin and the Beggar, S. Vincent, S. Peter, Tobit, Esther, etc. The capitals run, from east to west, on one side: (i) Annunciation; (2) Visitation and Nativity, the Blessed Virgin lying in bed; (3) Cradle with ox and ass, Shep- herds; (4) Epiphany; (5) Presentation. On the other side: (i) Flight into Egypt; (2) Herod and the Kings; (3) Massacre of the Innocents; (4) and (5) . the scheme breaks down in an interlace, a man killing pretty little dragons. I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 345 Finally, the great reliefs show, on the left, S. Michael overthrowing the dragon to S. Gabriel's admiration, Abraham Weighing holding souls in his bosom, and S. Souls Michael and the devil weighing out more; on the right, two angels at the half -open sepulchre, tiny soldiers asleep below, and three Maries with lovely spice boxes.7 The themes and treatment belong to the cathedral builders of the Royal Domain, and the technique, the actual forms, are Spanish. In the treatment of the hair and eyes I am reminded of the earlier, barbar- ous style of S. Juan de la Pena, and some faces in the archivolts, one, for instance, in the story of Tobias, have the curious Greco-Buddhist air of those at S. Tomas ot Soria, which seems to be a graft of that same stock. The only way to account for these incoherencies is to suppose suc- Successive cessive workmen in charge: a Spaniard workmen superseded by a Frenchman, and the scheme, which came from the north, carried out by workmen imported from other parts, from Aragon chiefly. On the AND MONOGRAPHS I 346 WAY OF S.JAMES Ill- assorted dates one hand, S. Juan de la Pena owned this church, and on the other, Alfonso Sanchez el Batallador was raiding Soria at about this time. Unfortunately it is impossible to delay the hypothetical rebuilding of the door to the time when the church was altered, for this was in the fifteenth century. The nave, of four bays, is of late Gothic, the vaulting and the capitals that belong to it are quite Renaissance in character. The aisles are quadripartite-vaulted with large bosses, the nave piers compound, with shafts in all the angles. The north transept is early, a bay and a half deep: the south transept of two bays with a great middle-pointed window. The apse belongs to the earlier building, preceded by a deep bay of pointed barrel-vault before the semi-dome; the side apses have simply a pointed semi-dome, and on the north side a window over that, and a shallower apse in the half bay. The south doorway, opening on a tiny walled garden, is early Gothic in character, the capitals a sort of belated transitional, like an outgrowth from Irache. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY These two churches, S. Pedro and S. Miguel, lying both on hilltops, are both pinched in the last bay of the aisle; S. Pedro on the north and S. Miguel on the south. Both want a triforium and a clerestory, and the two are very like in style, a style suited to wealthy merchants, open, comfortable, pleasant, and pretty, in which one may move about freely to see and be seen. It is an inland solution of the same problem that Jayme Fabre and the other Catalans were to settle after their own fashion, and that the churches of Betanzos, near Corunna, met just as well. Almost as much as early Renaissance building, is it the expression of a moment of ease and expansion, the sort of scene in which to lay the opening of the Decameron. The tale of the churches is not yet half told, and two at least cannot be ignored, that occupy almost a whole suburb, S. Sepulchre and S. Dominic. To two monks of S. Dominic, Fray Miguel and Fray Fortunio, in 1264, Theo- bald II gave the church of All Saints, that which had earlier been a synagogue. At 347 Merchants' Churches AND MONOGRAPHS WAY OF S.JAMES A king- kept the king's request five years before, Alex- ander IV had given a Bull, the Bishop of Pampeluna conceded indulgences, and the friars preached well and to the purpose. The convent grew upon the hillside, rich and gracious; Philip the Fair and Queen Joan gave baths and a tower; Louis le Hutin in 1307 ordered the Jews to build up a wall between the convent garden and the Ghetto; a great knight and a king's grand- son, D. Nufio Gonzalez de Lara, in the fourteenth century bequeathed his sword and his right arm. The ruined church stares from the hillside, wrapped in ivy. Above the refectory the pointed arches that once sustained a vast barrel-vault still stand, sharp against the blue, but of the church or the cloister little is to be seen except the plan of a mighty nave, as well suited to the Friars Preachers as the T-- shaped plan of Italian churches, and a chapel and chapter-room eastward, that, given also by Count Nufio Gonzalez, wear the delicate and refined grace that the fourteenth century kept in remote places. 8 Like the other churches of Estella, that HISPANIC NOTES Capital at Estella THE WAY of S. Sepulchre is entered from the north side; and Sr. Madrazo9 is probably right in his suggestion that the church which now stands is merely the north aisle of a great one projected and half -ruined, perhaps never finished. Some church of the Sepulchre there was in the twelfth century, for in 1174 S. Juan de la Pefia, renouncing others, still keeps peaceful possession of S. Michael's, S. Nicholas, and S. Sepulchre. ' ° When it came to be rebuilt, "the merchants made the door or portal," says the Licenciate Lezaun describing it in the eighteenth century with more enthusiasm than sense as "having images of saints in half re- lief and others full-figured, admirable in sculpture and, stuck to the wall of the church, some tombs or ossuaries with stones which denote great antiquity."11 The innumerable thin mouldings of the sharply pointed archivolt, the late thick leafage of the very small jamb-capitals, and the arching of the tomb recesses on either side, the cusped arches of the curious ar- cade under the roof, the statues flanking 351 HISPANIC NOTES 352 WAY OF S.JAMES Cena Estellaand Ujui the door, and the very exquisite sculptures of the tympanum, belong to the late four- teenth century — a little preceding that loveliest of the cloister doors at Pampeluna which offers a passage into the canons' gar- den. In the peak at S. Sepulchre is fig- ured the Crucifixion with Longinus blinded, and another pagan, besides SS. Mary and John: under that, in a row, the Sepulchre with soldiers sleeping below, and an angel sitting above, the three Maries, Christ bringing up the patriarchs from the yawning jaws of hell, and the Noli Me T anger e. On the lintel is set a beautifully ordered Last Supper, far more solemn than those at Pampeluna or Toledo. It closely resembles that on the related portal at Ujue, but it would seem that these two astonishing architraves are not copied one from the other but both, with dis- coverable likenesses and variations, from the Modena-Parma-Pistoja group.12 It is pretty plain, from the mouldings cf these two doors, the forms of the bases to the wide jambs, and the treatment of the capitals, that the portals as they stand are HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY the work of one man. These elements show precisely that likeness without identity, which is impossible to a copyist. The sculptures of the door at Uju6 must be later than the lintel here, but the group of the Epiphany is more Gothic in its vivacity of action and relative simplicity of drapery than the tympanum sculptures at Estella. At Ujue", in somewhat the same way, the apostles at the table are very deliberately individualized. On the architrave at Es- tella they are kept back in a straight line, and the conscious quaintness of Judas's position, at the front of the table, is given up. We can, more or less, date the door of Ujue": Madrazo says13 he has reason to believe that it was built, like the nave, under Charles the Bad, who died in 1387. The Apostolado that flanks this portal directly under the roof, is certainly earlier than the doorway and not made for the present place; earlier than the statues of Olite; and in situation more surprising. Its position is like that of the sculptures at Carri6n, Benevivere and Moarbes, that lie along the Way. In the figures of the 353 One artist Apostolado AND MONOGRAPHS 354 WAY OF S. JAMES One style in two genera- tions Apostles may still be traced the same style as on the portal of S. Miguel, in the conventions of eyes, of head, and of hair; both short and curled, and long and waving. The style, however, is dying out. If a great church was planned on this site, the figures may have been intended for the western facade as at Carrion, and when the plan was abandoned in the fourteenth century, and the main portal established in the flank of the north aisle, the architect put it under the roof, in a square-headed arcade, gave up the Apocalyptic Christ at the centre and, copying the portal, with variations, from S. Cernin, adorning the angle of the archivolts with six little angels, he set the transfigured Saviour alone, on the finial that crowns the arches, which has a little roof all to itself, lifted above the rest. He carved the tympanum suitably to the dedication in a style not identical but possibly contemporary with the corresponding one at Pampeluna, and then underneath that tympanum, and below the level of the jamb-capitals, he set a lintel left on his hands from the HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY abandoned western doorway, carved half a century before with the Last Supper in imitation of that at Pistoja. If the patient reader enquires why Pistoja, the answer is, first of all, because it looks like that one, and secondly, that the connection was facile, for Pistoja claimed a relic of S. James and was in constant relation with the shrine of Compostella, men coming and going incessantly along the road: the reader will then recall Bishop Gelmirez's Maestrescitela called Ramiro: and his letter to his friend S. Aton, abbot of S. Giacomo in Pistoja, for some articles to be sent by the pilgrims. The streets of Estella, excepting that one which runs past the Ayuntamiento toward S. Sepulchre in which palace chambers now lodge donkeys and goats, are comfortable and friendly; the squares simple, their sopor tales rather like the Rows in Chester. The city in greatness was commercial rather than courtly, and this is the end thereof. But it keeps yet a green walk by the green water, planted with ancient trees, broad and grassy, 355 Why Pistoja? Soportales AND MONOGRAPHS 356 WA Y OF S.JAMES Green watersides Alvar Garcia and Juan starred in spring with flowers, cooled in midsummer by the swift and foam-flecked waters. So dense the leafage, so tall and fresh the grass, one might be walking beside the Cher or the stripling Thames. Town churches, like those of Estella and Sanguesa, seem to have been built with what means were on the spot, by a king's initiative. Neither the bishop of the diocese nor the monastery which was lord did much except collect tithes. Es- tella had a chantier from the end of the eleventh century well along into the fifteenth. If Alvar Garcia of Estella did not plan the cathedral and fortification of Avila, in 1091, as Ponz believed,14 yet the plausibility of the attribution remains more important than the truth of it. In 1348 Pedro Andreo, who was master-mason of the Kingdom of Navarre, took charge by royal order of the substructures neces- sary to support the rock on which stood the chief castle of Estella, the Castillo Mayor. In 1387 Juan Garcia de Laguardia, had been master-mason in his turn, who died in two years, and his place was taken by Mar- HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 357 tin Pe"rez Desteilla, which is to say de Es- tella. Charles IV, in 1 399, sends this Martin Nlftrti n Pe"rez de Estella to work at Olite. An P6rez order on the king's treasurer in 1438 calls for the payment of 149 libras and 4 sueldos carlines to Angel Dastean, mazo- nero y vecino de Estella, for work that he had directed and executed in the palaces of Olite for the royal marriage.15 The work done in Sangiiesa by other workmen of Estella has been told al- ready: the masons of Estella were famous and were great. Irache. "Operuit mantes umbra ejus: et arbusta ejus cedrus Dei. " Irache lies on the mountain-side a couple of miles away, under the Mount of Jurra, protected from the sickly south wind that Shakespeare disliked, like other men of the Renaissance, and open to airs from north and east, that are cool and health-giving; once set thick about with oaks and live- oaks. That the Benedictine foundation AND MONOGRAPHS I 358 WAY OF S.JAMES Monjardin was very ancient, Yepes1 shows reason for supposing: possibly Visigothic, it persisted under Moorish rule. It is said that when Sancho II of Navarre went to besiege the castle of S. Stephen on Monjardin, he stopped in Irache and made a vow to Our Lady there, who gave him victory accord- ingly. 2 He and his son, D. Garcia Sanchez, it seems, are buried here. To his son, the Infant D. Ramiro he gave among other properties the church and honour [estate] of S. Stephen at Monjardin; this D. Ramiro, who had made the pilgrimage to Rome and Jerusalem, had a fate like Ban- quo's in the play3: he spent his last years at the court of Castile befriending the orphans of his hapless brother the last King of Najera, el de Penalen; and he was the grandfather of D. Garcia of Navarre called el Restaurador.4 At any rate D. Garcia, 61 de Ndjera, in 1045 exchanged for Mon- jardin a convent called S. Maria de Hiart. This same hill of Monjardin, it will be remembered, baffled for long the editors of chansons de geste, until M. Bedier had the idea of looking it out, geographically, HISPANIC NOTES T H E W A Y 359 in the place where it belonged, somewhere near Estella, and in clearing up one point more of mere scholarship welded one more link of his argument that the chansons de geste grew up along the Pilgrim Ways. Five years later D. Garcfa founded a hospice for pilgrims and dowered it well. At the very beginning of the restoration of the Church in Spain the monastery of Irache was very rich, and it came by the time of the Renaissance to claim nearly all the land in Estella, and to have many monasteries dependent upon it: at the beginning of the twelfth century, there were at least twenty -six, for the Abbot S. Veremund besides working miracles, so that the blind could see, devils were ex- mund pelled, and the like, collected monasteries, and nine more were added in the remain- der of that century or in the next. The monks early accepted the Rule of Cluny but never the authority, nor, indeed, that of any prelate until 1522; since then, until 1833, it contained a university that ranked with Salamanca, Valladolid, and Alcala, and the studio of Sahagun was transferred S. Vere- AN D M ONOGR APHS 36o WAY OF S. JAMES Yepes thither, in 1560. Yepes 's chronicle was commenced here, and printed, two volumes of it, in 1609 ; the third, dated at Valladolid, was, the author says,s printed at Irache, one of the best presses in Spain being seated in that university. Today a poor handful of Seminarists walk in the fragrant planta- tions of box and cypress within the four cloisters, drink of their springing fountains fed from mountain brooks: shrink away or clatter down the glorious cloister where in 1547 a Renaissance builder dreamed Gothic. The church, which Yepes calls more aged and strong than good-looking, strikes the traveller as a strayed sister of Zamora, Toro, and Salamanca, and as a fine instance of the transitional style: built early in the twelfth century at the east end, and continued, a little later, west- ward of the crossing. The three parallel apses open under their deep semi-domes by a pointed arch, and the middle one inter- calates a bay of pointed barrel-vault and adds a double arcade around the interior. The transepts consist of one bay each of quadripartite vault, and the nave of three HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY more bays of the same. The dome rests on squinches in the shape of shells; there is a window in each face of the square drum and in each corner a shaft, resting on a capital, that carries the figure of an Evangelist, and the symbolic beast above. Sr. Lamperez, who has studied and loves it well, and has published drawings of the dome, the apse, and the nave, says that the curious dome (though rebuilt in the upper part) is not so near to the Salaman- tine group as it looks, and questions whether it may be owed to some Syrian architect — "come like so many others by the cuenca of the Ebro to seek the Camino francSs." 6 In the second bay on the north opens a doorway richly moulded on the outside, with pointed arch and the chrism in the archivolt. Two coupled shafts, and four plain, in each jamb, have, nearly all, storied capitals, some from the life of S. Martin; the sharing of his cloak and the visit of Christ wearing it are easy to recognize, but opposite a knight is fighting a Sagittary and one savage is fighting another, two Lamp6rez A wandering Syrian AND MONOGRAPHS 362 WAY OF S.JAMES S. Martin of Tours dragons, men with swords and shields (one round and one triangular) a harpy in a hood and an animal in such another, con- fuse inferences. These last two belong to the fifteenth century, whether at SS. Creus or at Pampeluna. S. Martin of Tours appears frequently in Spain and all along the length of this road; the original church of Iria Flavia was, possibly, dedi- cated to him7 before the invention of S. James's relics, though more probably the patron intended there was S. Martin Dumiensis. A scrap of rich arcading was tried outside the window in the wall above, but proved, I suppose, too costly in time and skilled labour. On the whole, this door should be contemporary with that of Puente la Reyna. The western porch is later and rather odd: five little graduated round-headed windows under a pointed barrel-vault oc- cupy the upper part of the face; below, a pointed arch of five orders, strong and square, rests on the four shafts in either jamb and is crowned by a plainly moulded dripstone. In front of this the deep HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY porch is sustained by three transverse arches, pointed, resting on capitals, and these on corbels figuring busts or heads and arms: — a bearded man, a beautiful woman in a coif, a negro, another woman, etc.: outside, the trumpeters of the Doom. The door itself has lovely ironwork. The rebuilding of the dome was all but finished in 1597 when it fell, the builder being saved by a miracle of S. Veremund: according to the Bollandists, he was about to lay the last stone when he heard a voice that said the abbot summoned him and was scarcely in safety before the whole fell in. This miracle resembles pleasantly some which will be met later on, at Castrojeriz. Yepes testifies that the tower was finished in 1609 and the rebuilding done within the forty years, preceding, dormitories, stair- ways, cloisters, courts and fountains. The effect of the church, however, with its strong plain arches and coupled columns, its austere early capitals and early vaults, and absence of triforium, is to recall the early Cistercian building, strictly contem- porary, south and west of Rome. The 363 The AND MONOGRAPHS 3^4 WAY OF S.JAMES Syrian dome Ancient usage rich Benedictines here, lying close to the Way, attracted the new forms in archi- tecture and embodied them all, from the Syrian dome and its great Evangelical sculptures, down to the lovely curving star-patterns of the cloister vault. When Alexandei II was engaged in trying to wrest their own ritual from the Spanish church and substitute the Roman use, this abbey sent two precious MSS. to Rome, a missal and a sacramentary: the latter had been copied at the monastery of Albelda. The monks when, as I said, they were reformed in 1522 by Fray Diego de Saha- gun, the Abbot of S. Benedict of Valladolid, still kept some of their ancient customs. For instance, when a monk died each priest among his brethren gave him seven masses, and those not in orders recited ten Psalters; on the day of his death they fed thirty poor men, and for thirty days of mourn- ing thereafter they entertained a poor man in his place in the refectory, to whom they gave the dead monk's portion. In Yepes's day the ration was still a dole, but HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 365 the poor man was not fetched into the refectory, the monks finding that sort of guest embarrassing. The old way was very striking, in its transsubstantiation of pagan into Christian use, its consecration of the food and drink once offered to A Chris- tian trans- substanti- ation speed a lingering soul on its latest longest journey, by the word of the Son of Man, the "done unto Me." AND MONOGRAPHS I 366 WAY OF S.JAMES VII THE LOGRONO ROAD S'en istres de la ville sans nule destourbance E tant esploiterent on la Jesu sperance Qu'ati Groing furent venus. — La Prise de Pampeluye. LEAVING Estella, the road turns, ever and anon, running for a space between high, bare hills, crowned by ruins of hermit- age or castle, all one now, past where Irache suns its low massy dome on a bland slope: through the welcome greenery of woods, in the scent of box or juniper; past a widening golden valley where brown towns couch like hares in their forms; smooth and swift it runs to the pretty place, with its water-side church, of Los I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY Arcos. Hereabouts, in the twelfth cen- tury, a man met a merchant, barefoot, carrying chains to Santiago, and heard how he had been sold thirteen times into slavery and S. James had delivered him. Indeed, the Apostle was not well pleased with the contract,1 but God Almighty, whose patience is eternity, held him to it. Some- where between Estella and Logrono the tale as it was told shortened a dusty mile or twain. The superb cloister of Los Arcos imitates Pampeluna and anticipates Najera; the belfry, of openwork, flamboyant, is more de- serving of Charles V's famous mot about the coffer, than either tower to which he fitted it, that of Burgos or that of Florence; the church itself is a luxurious piece of rococo enamelling, a scented casket, lined all with what looks like Spanish leather, of colour laid over silver- leaf, and fitted all with gilded Churri- gueresque altars, exquisite and effeminate. It is possible that the fifteenth century church still exists under this gilt and jewellery, fard and ceruse, but it would be a 367 A Miracle of S. James (No. xxii) HISPANIC NOTES 368 WAY OF S.JAMES Los Arcos sad pity to go restoring, for Spain has a plenty of the fifteenth century elsewhere, but nothing so good in its own kind as this, like a portrait-study by Nattier. The town claims to have been known of Ptolemy;2 it was favoured in the second half of the twelfth century, Sancho the Wise exempting townsfolk in 1175 from obligations of bakery and butchery even to the king;3 but what it holds of that age, if anything, I know not; from the fifteenth to the eighteenth century it was a part of Castile. It enjoys a feria in August: to watch families reuniting for the feast, Jehane leaned over, from the motor-omni- bus, one day as we passed through, just in time to see a sleek little black priest with a pink nose, called Enrique, seized by a bigger girl and kissed soundly on both cheeks. The wind blows strong-scented and earth-warmed. The way runs on past sparse grain fields, in wide turns and long descents, past Sansol steep-scarped; past Torres climbing a river bank and rearing above tufted trees the tower and cross of HISPANIC NOTES THE W A V 369 the Holy Sepulchre; past Viana, founded in 1219 and cherishing still some crumbling walls, a strong church tower, and the memory ot a brief and tragic principate.4 The red soil of the Pyrenean outliers below Pampeluna, tinged as though with Christian blood undried, has yielded to yellow earth and yellow rock, and the very dust is impalpable gold. About the walls of Viana the road turns once more, and then lies straight as a stretched string across ten miles, from that last hill-spur to the Ebro. There at Logrono S. Juan de Bridge and Ortega built a bridge, or perhaps only Bridge- rebuilt, for the fuero of 1095 makes men- Warden tion of one. Thereon stood a chapel dedi- cate to S. John, but in the flood of 1775 the Ebro took it. s AND MONOGRAPHS I 370 WAY OF S.JAMES The Spires of Logrono. Abolladas los concavos arneses Y las huecas celadas sin resplandor, Sin file las espadas. — Lope de Vega. At Lbgrono we crossed an iron track, saw and might have touched railway metal, but we never travelled by rail till the other side of Burgos. Always the road invited, and the motor or diligence set out and arrived, grey with dust, crowded, and from the broad seat on the top we felt it licking up the miles. Considering that the railway runs there, it is curious how few ecclesiologists have visited the town, or even know its whereabouts, or have so much as heard of its churches. Not The Rioja so was it once. Today the city is in- deed commercial, but still historical. The heart of the Rioja, all the red wine flows through. Situate at the crossing of a great river, Logrono was always self- important : the earliest knights knew it, and John of Navarre and Walter of Aragon, and poets of Padua and Verona; the pil- grims made havoc of the name but relished I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 37i the hospitality; even Purchas's1 rhymester remembered, out of the confusion, — "Then to the Gruon in Spayne." Jacob Sobieski, who went on the pilgrimage in the spring of 1611, describes the city2 "on the abundant river Ebro, built after the Spanish fashion, for in Spain there are no such notable Steeples buildings always as in other places, and above all they want height. ' ' This means probably that the northern eye missed the steep roofs, but it is oddly charged against this of all places, for the steeples of Logrono were right famous: Enrique Cock 3 counts la Redonda, el Palacio, S. Pedro, S. Bias and 5. Bartolomi, "that all have lofty belfries that make a fair view from afar"; and Lope de Vega wrote, in much-admired lines, of Esa ciudad que superior preside a estas amenidades, y con sus torres las estrellas mide, gloria de Espana, honor de las ciudades. " They use linen windows instead of AND MONOGRAPHS I 372 WAY OF S. JAMES La diana glass," the noble Pole goes on, "for cool and for shade, which does not contribute so much to the gayety of a place as glass in the windows." The town lies fragrant in memory with the scent of ripe grapes and sprinkled pavements, cooled with little runnels that crept into a pool by every tree in the Plaza, full of the sound of soldiers' move- ments, from the bugle's reveille that they call in Spanish la diana, to the band- concert that went on in the square past midnight. All day the blue uniforms hung in view like dragon-flies under a bridge, and the shuffle and purr of marching squads held the ear, or the quick rattle of a cavalry trot. Those were perilous times in Spain, of which the writer may not speak, no more than one visiting in a house when trouble befalls. We dropped eyelids, stopped ears, and triple-sealed the doors of speech. To be called later "ciudad muy noble y muy leal, " as early as 926 the name appears in documents: the men are called, in 1076, "gente dura y terrible." At two great HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY moments, well remembered, was their temper approved. In 1336, the Castilian army, routed, fell back upon the town, hard pressed by the Navarrese under Gaston de Foix himself, hot-foot and drunk with victory. Then Ruy Diaz Gaona held the bridge against them all. Captain and citizen of Logrono, with but three soldiers he saved the city. He died, but not too soon, and Ebro took his body, and washed it down to the deep eddy that yet keeps, secure, his bones, his memory, and his name.4 In the sixteenth century they stood a siege, with artillery, from May 25 to the Feast of S. Barnabas, and the little garrison beat off the French who had conquered Pampeluna and overrun Navarre in that year of 1521, and still they celebrate the feat on Barnaby Bright. The fifteenth century rebuilt Santiago and the two S. Maries: that called la Re- donda and that called del Palacio. The latter carries, plump in the middle of everything, a most lovely spire, smooth- sided, crocketed and stone-cased, the price 373 " gente dura y terrible ' Ruy Diaz Gaona AND MONOGRAPHS 374 WAY OF S.JAMES S. M. del Palacio Salisbury Senlis of which was that the central piers of the church had all to be monstrously built up and the interior spoiled. "Do you sup- pose, " said an acolyte, spotted with candle- grease, shaking his bunch of keys, "that they would have spoiled the vista for any thing less?" Certes, this is the fairest spire in all Spain. Madrazo s compares it with that of Sanguesa which it surpasses in size, and that of Olite which it resembles in the perceptible entasis of its ribs; but the only just comparison is either with Litchfield and Salisbury, or, better yet, with Chartres and Senlis, set as it is with gables all around, like that lone lost spire of the sleepy city in the sweetest of the Isle of France. No Spaniard drew the plans for it. Sancho the Wise and Sancho the Strong commissioned the church; Alfonso VII made it over to the Order of the Holy Sepulchre and it became the seat of a Provincial Chapter. 6 Though in the four- teenth and fifteenth century the church was rebuilt, the strong transitional style HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY of the late twelfth century still appears in the trascoro and flanking aisles; a single western bay in each. Eastward of the Renaissance rebuilding, a vast Gothic transept rears three bays of star- vaulting; then the apse appears sixteenth-century again; the retable is dated 1581. Shallow side-chapels cling under the walls of the transept, and the cloister, star-vaulted, is of the sixteenth century. In 1435 by a bull of Eugenius IV, the Collegiata of Albelda was transferred to S. Maria la Redonda. The church, in spite of accretions — a domed and painted oval salon at the west, a bleak eastern transept like the hall of a ducal house, with three domes and an eastern doorway; the aisle-apses being pierced to admit to this — does show, in the part intermediate, the late fifteenth-century Gothic of all this region at its richest, loftiest, and most splendid. Without proper transepts, it consists ot four bays, aisles, and nave, four shallow chapels opening along the south aisle. Great piers carry a few thin shafts. The vaulting is very high 375 La Redonda AND MONOGRAPHS 376 WAY OF S.JAMES Alivio de caminantes and very fantastical; the rejas, retables, and tombs are abundant and good, and vastly enrich the interior, which is, fur- thermore, entirely painted, vault and aisles, with dim greens and blues, dull and tawny golds. S. Bartolome, however is of another sort, dedicate to the Far-traveller whose legend is so enviable to travellers. "Little, but good," says Sr. Lamperez. 7 Built in the thirteenth century, rebuilt in the four- teenth and fifteenth, it has three apses of pointed barrel- vault, transepts and crossing raised with a star-vault, one bay of nave and aisles and a western transept lifted high on the south side into the tower, and filled elsewhere by a low gallery enriched upon the bosses with rather good Renais- sance heads. The only original capitals are those of the piers to the main apse, which has abacus and string-course of billet moulding. On the south side little round-headed windows are set in the clere- story place. The whole is of a noble stone, grey within, biown where weathered. The HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY facade, built in the fourteenth century, combined the two chief ornaments of Estella: the crowded tympanum, multiplied mouldings, and reedy shafts of the door proper, with a wide band of sculpture stretching back from the jambs across the entire front, carved with the history of S. Bartholomew. But under this runs a blind arcade, diapered, in the French fash- ion, recalling, a little, Bourges, and, a little, Noyon, and, in a way most of all, the pure and early Gothic porch near Saumur, on the pilgrim's road. The tympanum and lintel, the former still showing its original arch under the later debased curve, have been lowered from their proper place, probably when the gallery was built inside, and leave room for a triangular window. If this portal belongs with those of Estella and Pampeluna, Ujue and Artajona, it is the latest and the coarsest in workmanship. The capitals of the lower arcade are in the same style as those of SS. Creus; the spandrels above them are crowded with little figures rather more delicate: above the canopies of the statues swarm other 377 at Candes The Five Portals of Navarre AND MONOGRAPHS 378 WAY OF S.JAMES personages, like Zaccheus and his friends in the palm tree. The large reliefs begin their story at the right-hand door-jamb, and continue around the south corner, then recommence in the corresponding corner on the north, and end again at the jamb of the portal. The work is coarse and racy ; a flaying of the titular saint out- rivals Spagnoletto's; the Apostle, flayed, is too like that too-famous image in Milan. On the south side the scenes are quieter in conception and a trifle earlier and graver in work. In the tympanum, the Saviour, erect, holds up His wounded hands, S. Mary and S. John kneeling in desperate intercession; below, the twelve apostles stand free, under rudimentary canopies. The story condensed is this: — S. Bartholomew the apostle went into The Golden India, which is in the end of the world. Legend And therein he entered into a temple where an idol was and he as a Pilgrim abode therein. And the temple was full of sick people, and could have no answer of that idol, therefore they I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY went into another city whereas another idol was worshipped named Berith, and Berith said: Your god is bound with chains of fire that he neither dare draw breath ne speak after that Bartholomew entered into the temple. He hath his hairs black and crisp, his skin white, eyes great, his nostrils even and straight, his beard long and hoar a little, and of a straight and seemly stature, and it is twenty-six years that his clothes never waxed old ne foul. The angels go with him which never suffer him to be weary ne to be an hungered, he is always of like semblant, glad and joyous. He seeth all things tofore, he knoweth all things, he speaketh all manner languages and understandeth them, and he knoweth well what I say to you. And when Polemius king of that region heard of this thing, which had a daughter lunatic, he sent to the apostle praying that he would come to him and heal his daughter. And when the apostle was come to him and saw that she was bound with chains and bit all them that went to her, he commanded to unbind her and then anon she was unbound and delivered. And 379 Nor moth nor rust nor hunger nor thirst AND MONOGRAPHS 38o WAY OF S.JAMES anon then they set cords on the image for to pull down and overthrow the idol but they might not. The apostle then O f* commanded the devil that he should So Greco painted issue and go out, and he brake the idol all to pieces. And forthwith all the sick people were cured and healed. And it was told the king Astrage his God Bal- dach was overthrown and all to-broken, and when the king heard that he brake and all to-rent his purple in which he was clad, and commanded that the apostle should be beaten with staves, and that he should be flayed quick and so it was done. Then the Christians took away the body and buried it honourably. 8 Logrono, practical, seated at a centre of traffic and exposed to all passing armies, all chances of victory and defeat, was content to adopt and adapt motives en- countered close at hand. At Estellayou feel how the townsfolk took what they could get of money and privilege, and built after their own fashion, hiring their own workmen. The king might fetch, for Pampeluna, an architect from Paris, the I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 38i abbot might fetch a builder from Gascony, as for Iranzu in 1776 did Abbot Nicholas Cathedral the brother of Bishop Peter of Paris,9 but and in Estella and Logrono the Spanish style convent appears alive and growing, taking what builders it can, where it can. Along the Battlefield. The breath of dew and twilight's grace Be on the lonely battle- place. Across the wide plain between Logrono and Najera, where the Black Prince's army moved softly in the grey dawn, even to the bridge where Roland fought for three days with Ferragus, the track runs as on a bowling green, and Logrono in the morning sun lies comfortable, purchasable, and Najera in the dusty noon, filthy and fly-specked, crumbles red into the arid river-bed. But if you had turned long since your dusty feet toward home, and at the day's end were moving back from the west just beginning to burn stilly about AND MONOGRAPHS I 382 WAY OF S.JAMES As one that travels toward the darkening east the huge sun's pyre, then you should see with the counted miles blue hills arising fold on fold, enchanted in their quietude, magical in their vaporous amethyst. The dusty chicory burns whitely in little patches ; the wind is warm with the memory of the day and fresh with the hope of the dark. You do not see Logroflo in such approach, for it lies low upon the river: you see but mountains softly folded, wide- encircling, far as the eye can trace them or the memory tell, enclosing and allur- ing the Road back into the misty Pass where dripping hemlocks and streaming crags still echo the olifaunt. Southward, among sharper peaks, lies the abbey of S. Millan, and that of Albelda cavern- hewn; northward the twilight swallows up the ranges. Hereabouts was the battle: and O, how green the corn! Here the most strange and splendid figures of that gorgeous, lusty, heady fourteenth century of Froissart's are brought together as in a chanson de geste: Edward the Black Prince, Bertrand du Guesclin; the tragic HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 383 and bitter Peter, the subtle and deadly Bastard; the Captal de Buch, Olivier Clisson. They had the most outlandish and romantic titles: the Begue of Villiers, 1'Allemant de S. Venant, the Souldich de 1'Estrade. "Then they dislodged and took the Great- way to Navaret, and passed through a hearted country called the country of the Gard, gentle- men . . . and when they were passed then they came to a towne called Vianne. There the Prince and the duke of Lancastre refresshed them, and the erle of Army- nacke, and the other lordes, a two days. Then they went and passed the river that departeth Castell and Navar at the bridge of Groygne among the gardeyns Bridge under the olives, and there they founde a of Logrono better country than they were in before; howbeit they had great defaute of vitayle. And when that king Henry knew that the Prince and his people were passed the rjver at Groygne, then he departed fro saynt Mychaulte where he had long lain, and went and lodged before Navar- ette on the same river. When the Prince heard that king Henry was approched, AND MONOGRAPHS I 3»4 WAY OF S.JAMES he was right joyous, and sayd openly: By saynt George this bastarde semeth . . . mas no to be a valyaunt knight, sythehe desireth chides que so sore to find us; I trust we shall fynde el vivir eche other shortely." The Spaniards characteristically never went to bed at all: they supped well, and talked awhile, and at midnight were ready for business: The Prince and his company went over a lytell hyll, and in the descendyng therof they parceyved clerely their enemyes comyng towarde them; and whan they were all discended down this mountaine, than every man drue to their batayls and kept them styll, and so rested them, and every man dressed and aparelled hymselfe redy to fight. There in the April weather, in the early light Sir John Chandos came up. He brought his banner rolled up together to the Prince, and said: Sir, behold here is my banner; I re- quire you display it abroad and give me leave this day to raise it; for sir, I I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 385 thank God and you, I have land and heritage sufficient to maintain it withall. Than the Prince and king Dampeter took the banner between their hands and spread it abroad, the which was of silver a sharp pyle gules, and delivered it to him and sayd, Sir Johan, be- holde here your banner: God sende you joye and honoure thereof. Then sir Johan Chandos bare his banner to his own company, and said, Sirs, behold here my banner and yours, keep it as your own; and they took it and were right joyfull thereof, and said, that by the pleasure of God and saynt George, they wolde keep and defend it to the best of their powers. And so the banner abode in the hands of a good Englysshe squyer, called Wylliam Alery, who bare it that day, and a quitted himself right nobly. Than anon after thengylsshmen and Gascoins alighted of their horses, and every man drew under their own banner and standerd, in array of ba- tayle redy to fight: it was great joye to see and consider the banners and pennons and the noble armery that was ther. es una escuela de honor . . AND MONOGRAPHS 386 WAY OF S.JAMES In the wind that runs before the sun, the pennons shivered : the white flag of S. George shook out its red cross above twelve hundred flickering pens els ot the free companies. They were bad men, no doubt, but they were good soldiers, seasoned. In the pale level sunrays lance-heads twinkled, steel caps glittered : the bugles that had cried in Spanish the night, sang now for the fight. The slingers English bowmen were well matched with Spanish slingers, whom they liked no better than had the Romans before then. Sir John "That day sir Johan Chandos was a Chandos good knight, and did under his banner many a noble feat of armes; he adven- tured himself so farre that he was closed in amonge his enemyes, and so sore over- pressed that he was felled downe to the erthe; and on him there fell a great and a bygge man of Castell, called Martyne Fen-ant, who was greatly renomed of hardynesse among the Spaniards, and he did his entent to have slayne sir Johan Chandos, who lay under hym in great danger. Then sir Johan Chandos re- membred of a knyfe that he had in his I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 387 bosom, and drew it out, and strake this Martyne so in the back and in the sydes, that he wounded him to dethe as he lay on him. Than sir Johan Chandos tourned hym over, and rose quickely on his feet, and his men were there about him, who had with moche payne broken the prease, to come to him whereas they saw him felled." In this battle the Chancellor Ayala, the being historian and poet, was taken prisoner, as indeed in rebellion he relates himself. He barely mentions his own in a long list of names, x for he is more preoccupied with Mosse"n Beltran de Claquin, and el Vesque de Villaines, and Du Guesclin D. Garci Alvarez de Toledo Maestre que fuera de Santiago, and el Clavero de Al- cdntara, who was called Melen Suarez, and other good knights who were taken, too, by those in white surcoats with scarlet crosses, whose cry was Guiana, Sanl Jorge ! "There were of Spaniards and of Castyle, mo than a hundred thousand men in harnesse, so that by reson of their great number, it was long or they AND MONOGRAPHS I 388 WAY OF S.JAMES could be overcome. King Dampeter was greatly chafed, and moche desired to meet with the bastard his brother, and said, Where is that whoreson, that calleth himselfe king of Castella. And the same king Henry fought right valiantly where as he was, and held his people togyder right marvellously, and said: Aye good people, ye have crowned me king, therfore help and aide me, to keep the heritage that you have give me; so that by these words, and such other as he spake that day, he caused many to be right hardy and val- yaunt, whereby they abode on the felde, so that because of their honor they wolde nat flye fro the place." His cry that day, says Pere Lopez de Ayala, was Castile! Santiago! and he rode The a great grey Castilian horse, in a shirt of Bastard's escape mail, until, when the day was lost and the horse was spent, a squire of his, Ruy Fernandez de Gaona, came up on a little jennet and exchanged, saying: "Lord, take this horse, for yours can't move." The king took it and got away from Najera, taking the Soria road for Aragon. I HISPANIC NO-TES THE WAY 389 "The batayle that was best fought and lengest held togyder, was the company of sir Bertram of Clesquy, for there were many noble men of arms who fought Mosos codiciosos and held toguyder to their powers, and de honra. . . ther was done many a noble feat of arms. And on the Englysshe parte, specially there was sir Johan Chandos, who that day did like a noble knight, and governed and counsayled that day the duke of Lancastre, in like manner as he did before the Prince, at the batell of Poycters, wherein he was greatly re- nomed and praised, the which was good reason; for a valyant man, and a good knyght, acquitynge hymselfe nobly among lords and princes, ought greatly to be recommended." If the ordeal ot battle means anything, this day the issue declared for that Don King Peter, who wanted to be called the Just. Dam peter "The Prince [Edward] had indeed with him the flower of chivalry, and there were under him the most renowned combatants in the whole world." What sumptuous phrases they had, these men that made AND MONOGRAPHS I 390 WAY OF S.JAMES history as they wrote it, and what magni- ficent certitudes! Here with these words, unlike enough to the actuality of the sullen and ferocious Englishman named less from his black armour than his black heart, and of his host of alien and mercen- ary invaders, our good knight and loyal servitor evokes the very figures of the great-souled, the Happy Warriors, the — "White Horsemen who ride on white White horses, the Knights of God, Horsemen Forever, with Christ their Captain, forever He!" "Than the Englysshmen and Gascons lept a horsebake, and began to chase the Spanyardes, who fledde away sore disconfyted to the great ryver: and at the entry of the bridge of Navaret, there was a hideous sheddinge of blood, and many a man slain and drowned, for divers lept into the water, the which was deep and hideous, they thought they had as Keve to be drowned as slain. And in this chase among other, ther were two valiant knights of Spayne, bearing on them the abyte [habit] of religion: the I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY one called the great priour of saynt James, and the other the great maister of Calatrave. They and their company, to save themselfe, entred into Navaret, and they were so nere chased at their back, by Englysshmen and Gascoyns, that they wan the bridge, so that there was a great slaughter. And then englysshmen entred into the city after their enemies, who were entred into a strong house of stone; howbeit, inconti- nent it was won by force, and the knights taken, and many of their men slayn, and all the city overron and pylled, the whiche was greatly to the Englysshmen's profit. Also they wanne king Henries lodgynge, wherein they found gret richesse of vessell, and jowelles of golde and sylver, for the king was come thyder with great noblenesse, so that when they were disconfyted, they had no leisure for to return thyder again, to save that they had left there. So this was a hide- ous and a terrible disconfyture, and speci- ally on the river side, there was many a man slain; and it was said, as I heard after reported of some of them that were there present, that one might have seen 391 I Ay, qui buen Caballerol AND MONOGRAPHS 392 WAY OF S . JAM PS the water that ran by Navaret to be of the colour of red, with the blood of men and horse that were there slayn. This ba- tayle was bytwene Naver, and Naveret, in Spayne, the yere of the incarnacyon of our Lorde Jesu Christ, a thousande thre hundred threscore and sixe, the thirde day of Aprill, the whiche was on a Saturday." 2 As at Cologne upon the winding Rhine, and among the stony deserts of the Bouches du Rhone, as on the sacred plains ot Chalons and of Poitiers, so here the quiet air is swept with confused alarms of struggle and flight, is thickened and cloudy with the figures of clashing armies that like the tides withdraw and return again. Half a millennium before Henry of Trastamare, Charles the Emperor had gathered the most renowned combatants in the whole The most renowned world, and camped in sight of Najera, whence the hosts of Spain and Aragon came prepared and glad. "Moult fu beaus Feragus": the time was early summer, the time of birds' singing, the time of love- making, — I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 393 This geant issued out of the town and demanded [combat] singular, person against a person. Charles, which never had refused that to person, sent to him Ogyer the Danoys. But when the geant saw him alone on the field, without making of any semblant of war he came alone to him and took him with one hand and put him under his arm, without doing him any harm, and bare him unto his lodgings and did do put him in prison, and made no more ado to bear him than doth a wolf to bear a little lamb. . . . After that Ogyer was borne thus away, Charles sent Raymond d'Aube- pyne. When Feragus saw him he bare him away as lightly as the other. 3 Last came Roland. Roland went to pray in the dawn, S. James and S. Michael came always when he called them, he SS. James and Michael talked theology to Feragus in the pauses between thrust and parry, and found him a stone for his head when he slept exhausted, and in the end pricked the poor gentle giant in the one spot vul- nerable, and so the Bridge of Najera was AND MONOGRAPHS I 394 WAY OF S.JAMES won, and the city baptized. 4 The battle occupies three days and three thousand lines and more. There is not a word of history in the whole, yet it was by some other virtue than the author's vain imagination that precisely there, where he had never been, these figures of ancient song, muy noble y muy leal, "peopled the hollow dark like burning stars." S. Mary the Royal. Mother of misericord, For thy dead is grief in thee? Can it be, thou dost repent, That they went, thy chivalry, Those sad ways magnifi- cent? — Lionel Johnson. Najera in the Sunday noon consisted of a rotting cliff and a bone-dry bed of stones; between them, dirt and flies and good Christians. Bells tinkled for the last Mass, dogs quarrelled, children cried out; Kindness the arid heat droned and hummed. While the narrator went to look for S. Mary the Royal, Jehane was welcomed with a shaded room, cool water, and hospitality 1 HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY without grudging from a little tavern keeper. His reward came immediately and thirty-fold, in the drinks he sold to those who drifted in to stare. Meanwhile a small boy, and a smaller Cur a, were giving to the narrator more counsel than comfort: the church, it appeared, belonged to a convent of frailes, who through the noon hours were bound to dine and sleep, and for neither knocking nor ringing, for neither the Pope nor the King, would they open the door before mid-afternoon. Just the glim- mer of a chance, however, searching and bitter inquiry brought out that a certain ecclesiastical dignitary of the town might stir them up. Anyway, we went about to see: and at a corner the good lad raised a cry and set off running: the convent door it seemed, was not yet closed, a beggar woman who waited along with me was confident it would not close until she had her daily mess. We knocked and rang at intervals, she and I and a few loungers, and when at last the brass wheel spun in the door I could see at a glance the green of cloister-garth as background to the 395 apostolical and ecclesi- astical AND MONOGRAPHS 396 WAY OF S.JAMES brown of frieze cassock. At the crack liai I made my plea, of a long day's journey breeding only half measured yet, of recommenda- tions from the Apostolic Nuncio, of a book in course of writing; and anon two tall Franciscans, incredibly clean and kind, were talking with me in the cloister and unlocking for me the church. It was not just for pride in their church that they fore- went the meal and the Recreation that echoed in discussion and laughter from the upper galleries of the princely cloister : it was that they did, as a matter of daily practice, take the stranger in. Though the need, in this case, was not for soup but for photographs, not to feed but to see, it mattered no whit, and that they wonderfully discerned. Kings of The city of Najera was probably an Ndjera Arab foundation; it played a part in the Reconquest and at one time was a sepa- rate kingdom from Navarre. Seven kings reigned there and these are they:1 i. Sancho Abarca (Sancho II of Pampeluna), gos-c. — 926. He won I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 397 back from the Arabs most of the Rioja (which the Chronicle of Albelda calls Cantabria) even from Najera to Tudela. He married Dona Toda. 2. His son (D. Garcia) he called to share the throne, giving him conquered land on the right bank of the Ebro with the title of King of Najera. Abderraman brought up a huge army and though D. Garcia fell back and Ordono II of Leon came to his help, yet the two kings were Valdejun- defeated in the battle of Valdejunquera. quera Abderraman pushed into France by Jaca and Somport and D. Garcia followed after him and recovered as far as Cala- horra. He founded Albelda and with his queen Dona Teresa gave much to S. Millan. He died in 970. 3. His son Sancho kept the kingdom for eighteen years against Almanzor, by a sort of guerrilla practice, now withdraw- ing, anon harrying the Moor. He died in 995 and is buried in S. Maria on the north side, with his queen Dona Urraca. 4. D. Garcia el Tembloso was no coward: he fought at Calatanazor in 998, Calata- and died the next year. Dozy explains ftazor this famous victory as a pure fabrication 2 AND MONOGRAPHS I 398 WAY OF S.JAMES to salve the Spanish pride: it has raised for us at any rate the mysterious wailing figure on the shores of Guadalquiver who cried aloud in a grievous voice, in Arab and Spanish, thrice: En Calatanazor perdid Almanzor el tambor! 5. Sancho el Mayor, whose queen Dona Munia or Elvira is also called Dona Mayor. She built the bridge at Puente la Reyna. In 1001 she signed a document conjointly with him and with D. Ramiro, who is called Regulus. He was a bastard son of the king's, but his mother was a great lady, either Dona Romance Caya of Aybar, or a Castilian heiress. The of Dona Chronicles and the Romances both tell Mayor one story about this prince. The queen had a horse fleet and sure given her by the king, and her eldest son begged it of her, and in the end, by the advice of her castellan, she refused to give away the king's gift. Then her eldest son conspired I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 399 with his two brothers to accuse her to the king, involving the castellan, and there was nothing for Dona Elvira but the ordeal of fire. At the day and hour, how- ever, a good knight came, and the young The Good Knight men, bethinking themselves, sent a monk of Najera, to stipulate for pardon if they should confess, and in the end they did. The champion was D. Ramiro. Then the queen put out D. Garcia her eldest son, the mischief-maker, from the inheritance of Castile, and the kingdom of Aragon which was her own she gave to D. Ramiro her stepson. That was a great woman, say I. Sancho el Mayor conquered from the Arabs Sobrarbe and Ribagorza, and from Leon all the land between Cea and Pisuerga, and divided his lands among his four sons, and died in 1035. 6. Garcia IV 61 de Najera, con- quered D. Ramiro and took Aragon, reconquered Calahorra, dowered S. Ma- ria de Najera, and after reigning twenty-four years, four months and some days, died fighting his brother Atapuerca AND MONOGRAPHS I 400 WAY OF S.JAMES Ferdinand of Castile, in the battle of Atapuerca, in the year 1054. 7. Sancho the Noble el de Penalen, was killed in the wood by his brethren, 1076. With this for an excuse, Alfonso VI of Castile took the Rioja and Sancho Ramirez of Aragon took Navarre. This is the end of the kings in Najera. The wife of D. Sancho the Noble is called in her epitaph, like Chaucer's lady, "the And good6, White" for her sweet soul's sake, and fair6, white Placencia for her gentle ways, but for all she hete. . . her pleasantness her paths were not of peace. When the king was murdered, she disappeared from history. There was another good queen Blanche buried at Najera, the daughter of Garcia Ramirez el Restaurador , wife of Sancho el Deseado of Castile, mother of Alfonso VIII &, de las Navas. She bore a son, and died; but her husband lit a silver lamp above her tomb, that burned for centuries. The church was dedicated on Saturday the 1 2th December, 1052, and endowed with most amazing gifts. The complete inventory of that dowry has been pub- I HI SPAN 1C NOTES THE WA Y lished by Dr. D. Constantino Garran and may be bought on the spot, so may be spared here: instead, we may consider a list of the books that a king borrowed thence at one time. In the thirteenth century, Alfonso X borrowed, against a receipt and in good form, from the prior and monks of S. Mary of Najera, besides other books, the Bucolics and Georgics of Virgil, Epis- tles of Ovid, Thebaid of Statius, poems of Prudentius, two books of Donatus, the great grammar of Priscian, the Consola- tions of Boethius and his commentary on the ten predicaments, Scipio's Dream of Cicero, the Libra Juizgo (the Visigothic code), a catalogue of Gothic kings, a treatise on jurisprudence ("un libra de justicia"), the History of the Kings, the History of Isidore the Younger, and the Book of Illus- trious Men by S. Jerome or S. Isidore or both. 4 According to tradition, the foundation of Najera was on this wise: D. Garcia was hunting and pursued the prey into a cave where he found an image of the Virgin. He adored and built a church. The cave 401 Books borrowed AND MONOGRAPHS 4O2 WAY OF S.JAMES Virgen de la Cueva del Alc&zar Independ- ence is there to prove it, westward of the church but opening into it, and the tombs of the kings lie within or before it, and the image reigns at the high altar of the church. It is completely habited and not easy to see, but from photographs appears archaic work of the thirteenth century. In the cave is enshrined another image, the Virgin of the Alcazar, that Sr. Lamperezs attributes to the close of the twelfth. Of the early church and sepulchre of kings, founded in the beginning of the eleventh century and consecrated 1056, nothing remains: the church was rebuilt by Prior Pedro Martinez de S. Coloma, 1422-1456; the cloister in the next century; the royal burial place, by Fray Rodrigo de Gadea, 1556-1559. D. Garcia Sanchez had brought monks from Cluny and settled them there; in 1486, on Monday the 8th May, the monks elected their first abbot independent of Cluny, D. Pablo Martinez de Urunuela. * In the church, the transepts and nave of six bays are unusually high, with vault sexpartite or star-ribbed; there is a true HISPANIC NOTES 403 Albi and THE WA Y clerestory and a curious series of openings, like a triforium, on the south, which gives access to the vaults. The apses are square; the buttresses, without, cylindrical and big as towers, like those of Albi and ot Assisi. There are low galleries over the transepts and the west end, all these in clausura of course; and a glorious south chapel of two bays with stalls and tomb recesses; but nothing breaks the soaring beauty and noble grace of this thrice royal church. The stalls,- late Gothic, were made in 1495 by Master Andrew and Mas- ter Nicholas: the organ doors, in Antwerp now, were painted perhaps by Memling. The Claustro de los Caballeros is built, lofty and long, in five bays by seven of plateresque that simulates Gothic; begun under Abbot Juan de Llanos (1517-21) it was ended under Abbot Diego de Valma- sida, (1521 -28) ; on either side the walls, on every pier, a canopied niche had once held a saint, and tomb recesses open down three sides of it. Here lies that Lopez de Haro called, by exception, the Good, and a quaint use survived about his tomb from AND MONOGRAPHS 404 WAY OF S.JAMES Examen de varones . . . In S. James' church he sleeps his death in 1214 down into the last cen- tury. When a Corregidor or a new Council was elected in the city, the Council went in procession from the Casa Consistorial to the tomb, on which was laid a pall, and a carpet was laid on the pavement, and two candles were lit. Then, they standing in a semicircle, the presiding member handed the sealed ballot to the scrivener, and he broke it open and read the election aloud. Eastward, in the chapel of Holy Cross, lies like a foundress Dona Mencia Lopez de Haro. Her mother was a sister of Ferdinand the > Saint, her first husband was a knight of his, for whose honour and glory she defended, with a handful of gentlewomen and maidservants her castle of Martos, when the Moorish king Alhamar besieged her there. In her widowhood, a king of Portugal married her, infatuate with her beauty, her charm and her person- ality, and she ruled the realm as though it were her own inheritance. In the end Portugal was lost, D. Sancho died for- lornly at Toledo, while she came back to Najera where she had grown up, and HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 405 founded this chapel, December 7, 1272, with four chaplains, "that masses might be sung for her soul every day, even until the end of the world." Did she feel that they were needed so? Door of the Holy Sepulchre AND MONOGRAPHS 406 WAY OF S.JAMES VIII TWO ROAD-MENDERS The world is his house. He serves all men alike; ay, and for him the beasts have equal honour with the men. No man is depen- dent on his earnings, all men on his work. — Michael Fairless. TRAVELLERS in Italy may recall, some of them, a valley hidden away in the heart of the Central Apennine, behind Gubbio, between Scheggia and Fossombrone. It is entered through a land bare as the,Sistine Creation of Adam, it is left by the Furlo Pass where the Romans ran their road through the living rock of the mountain flank. The capital city is Cagli. As, before an invading race, the indigenes I HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 407 withdraw to mountain fastnesses, and the last tribe of those who once held the land smoulders away among the highest peaks, so, before the railway and the factory town, Italy found asylum there — the romantic Italy of our grandfathers' past, of Claude and Wilson, of Richardson and Byron, and under the stone-pine and the vine-wreathed elm, dreams eternally. In much the same way the campo about S. Domingo keeps still unspoiled the romantic Spain of the Elizabethan and the Augustan age. Here tawny Spain, lost to the world's debate, re- joicing in the abundance of corn and vine, salutes the coy dawn with the tinkling bells of mule-trains, and wakes the early moonlight with pipe and guitar. Translu- cent grapes, flushed peaches, freckled pears, with white and powdery bread, strong and limpid wine that glitters like jewels in the reddened glass, — these trans- mute into something venerable and sacra- mental the ancient sun-burnt mirth. On every hand the land is green, and the campo of La Calzada is famed as far as once the huerta of Sahagun. The cool well- Romantic Spain AND MONOGRAPHS 408 WAY OF S.JAMES Unspoiled water is abundant, wholesome, and delicious. The town plants poplars and sycamores in multiplied rows along the roadside, till camino becomes paseo, turning the dusty track into a place of solace and refreshment. Women are handsome here, babies clean, men devout. Only of late a narrow line of railway has pushed down from Haro, and the spell of the sleepy centuries is not yet rent. It is strange in a world of trippers and tourists to find a happy land so abounding in its own kindly life, and a church so richly undespoiled, still intact of dealers and restorers. Two saints hereabouts in the twelfth century took care of God's poor and God's pilgrims, Dominic of the Causeway and John of the Bramble-Bush. Says Govantes ' — and the account seemed good enough for Madrazo2 to transcribe with only verbal alterations: — In the eleventh and twelfth centuries there were a number of saints whose piety was directed to helping pil- grimages to holy places, and who mended old roads, built new ones, erected bridges, and founded hospitals and hospices. This HISPANIC NOTES A Mountain Town THE WAY fell in with the wishes of Alfonso VI. Possibly S. Domingo had retired to an anchorite's life in an old palace or castle which stood where now the city stands, a league to the south of the bridge by which the Roman road crossed, that ran from Italy to Astorga; and seeing the distress of the pilgrims he set about relieving it. The river Oja, though usually a slender stream, gets up in thaw or in rainy weather and is dangerous enough. He probably built so far from the Roman bridge and turned his road out correspondingly, either to take the stream where it was narrower, being nearer to the mountain, or to get a better foundation for the piers. Beside the bridge he built a hospice or free lodg- ing and served there humbly: thus the new settlement began. In the Flos Sanctorum it is said that S. Domingo was an Italian, who for love of God sold his patrimony and distributed it to the poor, and then, to be more entirely in the state of a pilgrim and a stranger, passed over into Spain and sought admission in the Benedictine convent of Valbanera. He was denied for alleged 411 S. Domin- go de la Calzada HISPANIC NOTES WAY OF S. JAMES S. Domin- go de Silos illiteracy; the same happened at S. Millan. This was about 1050: that year the locusts ate up everything, and S. Gregory of Ostia came preaching a mission: S. Domingo joined him and stayed with him until his death. Then he settled down in a place of thick forests and shameless highway- men, built his cell and a chapel to Our Lady, and afterwards burnt off the woods and built a causeway. Here S. Domingo de Silos visited him, and the two held holy converse together, and he approved his labours and travails.3 Alfonso VI when, after the death of D. Sancho £l de Penalen, he took possession of the kingdom of Najera, gave to S. Domingo all the land he needed for his works, and he built a little church, consecrated 1105. There he lived, attending to travellers and in especial nursing those who needed him, till he was very old. He died in 1109. A hundred years later, his figure enters, familiar, easy to identify, in the Vision of the Ploughman Thurkill : though the Eng- lish chroniclers could not recognize his name, the Pilgrims knew it perfectly. He HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 413 is the Warden of the Basilica which is the gathering-place of souls and the goal of the long Causeway, and S. James himself com- mits the visitor to his charge. The Apostle, by the way, figures there in a mitre as Metropolitan and Primate of the Spains; and for the same reason he is arrayed with mitre and crozier when, with S. Millan, in the Apparition of Simancas, they turned the day. Gonzalo de Berceo is explicit about Twins the nature of the great twain : White Horsemen who ride on white horses, O fair to see, They ride where the rivers of Paradise flash and flow. Now the abbey of S. Millan de la'Cogolla lies not many miles away, to southward of S. Millan the Road, and, as related, legend connects S. Domingo with it: the account which determined Thurkill's vision in this part, will have been picked up here inLaCalzada. The place was called in those days, Bur- go de Santo Domingo. The new road, the safe crossing over the bridge, the convenient AND MONOGRAPHS I 414 WAY OF S.JAMES Bishop Covel Kings reside lodging, the good site, the level, fresh, fertile and healthful land, drew settlers. The Bishop of Burgos laid a hand on them, the Bishop of Calahorra warned him off: the case was put to arbitration by the king's order and Calahorra was sustained; this being in 1137. Alfonso VII the Emperor, who had seen to this, with his wife Dona Berenguela, dowered the city in 1147 with a share of woods, mountains, pasture and grass- land, and water rights. In 1152 the Bishop, D. Rodrigo Cascante, raising the church to collegiate rank, decided to enlarge and rebuild. In 1168, with royal help the work was begun ; in 1 180 the offices were sung in the new church;4 in 1232 Gregory IX transferred thither the see, at the request of the chapter and Bishop D. Juan Perez, the situation of Calahorra being both unwholesome and perilous. The lordship of the town belonged to the chapter till in 1350 S. Ferdinand took it over to the Crown, giving an equivalent. The king D. Peter rebuilt the walls; his successor D. Henry died within them, on Sunday the twenty-second of May, 1379. HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY In 1440 the shrine of the saint was ordered by Bishop D. Diego Lopez de Zuniga. In 1517 the cloister was begun, finished in 1550. The splendid detached belfry was built in 1762-67 by Master Martin, at the expense of Bishop Porras. Says Cean Bermudez : s the king D. Alonso VIII and the Bishop of Calahorra and Najera, D. Rodrigo Cascante, laid the first stone: the work lasted seventeen years, and was not finished when in 1180 the see of Najera was transferred thither, though the divine offices were celebrated. It consists of three naves, and is of a robust and heavy architecture, without grace or elegance, as were all the edifices of that age. It was finished in 1235 when it was raised to a cathedral. This is hard to reconcile with the sentence before, about the transference of the see : all accounts are indeed fairly confusing. The name of the see, according to Govantes, runs still "of Calahorra and La Calzada," though Ma- drazo says it was joined to Burgos in 1574. The abbey church was certainly dedicated to S. Saviour, as the retable indicates, 415 Robust and heavy AND MONOGRAPHS 416 WAY OF S.JAMES Towers like S. Leonard French plan though some confusion is caused by a kind of joint-ownership with S. Mary, explicable by a tradition that Madrazo6 also records of the original site's being that of the little sanctuary of the Virgen de la Plaza, against the great belfry. As there must have been some such tower before Master Martin's time, it is worth noting that at S. Leonard de Limoges, on the same Cause- way, the tower is isolated similarly. This church was begun, then, in 1168, and within twelve years was fit for use. There- after building went on, and then rebuilding. The original plan is plain, and is French; and especially is the structure French, pier and rib. The nave is three bays long, the westmost of only half the size, as though it stood once between two western towers: and the eastern end had a chevet of five, an ambulatory and three radiating chapels with a plain bay in between these. The Lady-chapel survives, and the next bay north of it: the rest has been rebuilt. The north transept is a plain strong rectangle vaulted octopartite, like the nave. The south transept has been rebuilt with a HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY chapel eastward and a portal of the full transept width, to fit the shrine of the Saint: also, the bay just west of this, clear across the church, aisles and nave, is as high as the crossing and as richly vaulted. Though, where only one transept aisle occurs, it is usually on the eastern face, I believe this arrangement to represent an original divergence from the norm for the sake of the crowds of pilgrims, giving, with such a lofty western aisle beyond the transept, a vast and noble environment for the shrine. Master Pedro or Juan Rasines rebuilt, in the beginning of the sixteenth century, the capilla mayor. Andres de Najera began the stalls in 1517; in the end of the same century they were moved down, and dam- aged, and a lawsuit followed: in 1825 they were damaged again by fire, and repaired with faithful care by a local carver. The retablo mayor belongs to the first half of the sixteenth century, it is beautiful Renaissance work in the style of Berruguete. About this woodwork discussion rages. The stalls of S. Maria la Real, at Najera, 417 Western transept- aisle Stalls AND MONOGRAPHS 418 WAY OF S.JAMES Con sumo prolixidad Master Andrew at Najera were carved by Maestre Andres and Maes- tre Nicolas, in 1495, saysCean Bermudez7; "con suma prolixidad por el gusto gotico"; Madoz8 says they were executed in 1493 by two brothers called Amutio, of Jewish persuasion, citizens of CaVdenas, a town a league off; who, Dr. Garran9 adds, were disciplined by the Inquisition. This detail he had from his father, the late D. Restituto Garran of Acedillo, who supplied the information to Madoz, and who learned everything from old monks, his intimates, that knew by heart the traditions of the monastery. He wants this Master Andrew to be the same with Andres de Najera or Andres de S. Juan, of whom Cean Bermu- dez says, in a manuscript note intended for a second edition, x ° "it appears from trust- worthy documents that he designed and carved the stalls of S. Benito of Valladolid in 1528; and likewise carved the quire of S. Domingo de la Calzada." The quire of Najera the present writer has not seen for it is in clausura, but views of it are published by Dr. Garran, by D. Pelayo Quintero, ' I and by Sr. Marti y Monso, 1 2 HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 419 and from these it is easy to understand the beautiful late flamboyant traceries and delicate fifteenth-century forms. A phrase of Street's occurs to mind, where he calls a tomb "in no sense unworthy of a good Gothic sculptor." That was Master An- dre's, a good Gothic sculptor, and by the same token incapable utterly of the luxuriant loveliness of the stalls in S. Domingo. For these Sr. Marti y Monso has pub- lished abundant documents. 1 3 They were Master begun in 1517, Andre's de Najera being Andrew of Ndjera master of the works. He lived at that time in S. Domingo. For some reason not stated, the chapter in proper person made the contracts with the several work- men: these were, Guillen de Holanda (who was not necessarily William the Dutchman), Juan de Castro, Francisco de S. Gil of Burgos, Ortega of Cordova, one Lucas of Burgos, and one called the Burgundian for whom a notary signed. This last could not have been Felipe Vigarny, but it is worth remembering that Maestre Andre's was possibly working in AND MONOGRAPHS I 420 WAY OF S. JAMES Andr6s de S. Juan Burgos and in relation with Vigarny four years earlier, for, says Dr. Martinez y Sans, in 1513 the work of Master Philip was valued by the master-mason Andres de S. Juan.14 Moreover in Valladolid in 1533 he served on the same commission with Vigarny and one Julio Romano, about the valuation of the retable of S. Benito, that Berruguete had just finished. I s To have taken two or more workmen from Burgos into the Rioja, makes it more likely that Maestre Andres was really formerly at Bur- gos, and this contract gives us another Frenchman, of name unknown, who lived once in Burgos in the time of Maestre Felipe Vigarny, sculptor (before 1498-after 1532), and Juan de Langres, T 6 entallador (known 1522-1532). From S. Domingo, Maestre Andres went to Valladolid, where he was working pretty steadily, between 1522 and 1528, on the stalls of S. Benito : he was living however in Covarrubias in 1521, and as late as 1531 he reappears in the Calceaten- sian account-books as master of the works on the trascoro. 1 7 Apart from questions of style, it is unlikely that Master Andrew HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY should be judging Renaissance work in 1513 if he had finished mature Gothic work twenty years before, and it is almost impossible that one of the judaizing broth- ers of the fifteenth century in the Rioja should move so freely and be fetched from so far in the second quarter of the sixteenth, as an expert qualified and highly esteemed. He would be, if nothing else, at any rate too old. Here then within forty years, between 1493 and 1533, we have two Masters called Andrew and quite possibly three, working from the Ebro to the Pisuerga, in Navarre, and in both parts of Castile. Before the retablo mayor comes up again the whole question of likeness and unlikeness in names and personalities, of documentary evidence and the evidence of style. The retable is a noble and precious work of the Spanish Renaissance, a shade less mannered and agonized than Berruguete's at S. Benito. Straight at the sides, level at the top and bottom, it bent into three planes to accord with the curving apse; also, it wants a proper predella. In 421 Retable AND MONOGRAPHS 422 WAY OF S.JAMES Nudes Formente the central place is the Salvator Mundi, above that the Assunta, above that an oculus or almond-shaped glory for the Host. On either side are four great panels of the life of Christ where, as nudes, the Baptism supplies a pendant to the Resur- rection; between and beyond these panels, figures, singly or in pairs, are set between columns and under cornices, and flanking all, another row of statues, freer and more sinuous, rises from a sort of console formed by leaning figures. As in the Milanese, the columns are treated like balustrades and candelabra; the friezes, frankly heathen, depict not only young fauns and old centaurs, but tritons and sea nymphs, Eros and Amphitrite, and the nude is not confined either to sacred persons or to putti. For this also, Sr. Marti y Monso pub- lishes some documents.18 It seems that the sculptor was named Formente, that, a citizen of Saragossa, he was living in 1539 and was dead in 1543; that of his two daughters one called Esperanza, married Bartolome Garcia and the other, Isabel, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY left no other heir: the daughter and niece of these, Ursula Garcia, was married to Jeronimo Daza, and in 1 569 she gave power to Juan Garcia and Juan de S. Cruz to try to recover for her money which the Dean and Chapter of S. Domingo were still owing on the retable, as they had admitted in 1543. Now, of course, there is a sculp- tor ready at hand, Damian Forment, who lived one time in Saragossa, and made two retables there, and one in Huesca, besides one for Poblet in 1517, and some earlier work at Gandia. But he was supposed to be dead by the time the second quarter of the century commenced. Cean Ber- mudez ' 9 cites a document of the chapter of the Pilar dated 1511; then he mentions the retable of Huesca contracted for in 1521 and finished in 1533, also Gothic; and finally refers to two notes in the MS. of Martinez: first, that in this retable For- ment changed his style, being influenced by Berruguete; and second, that when Charles V wrote to the chapter, begging for the services of the sculptor when they had done with him, it was too late, for he 423 and Forment AND MONOGRAPHS 424 WAY OF S.JAMES Huesca Saragossa had died shortly after completing the work, and the canons had buried him in the cloister. There the sacristan still shows an epitaph, which is not Ferment's, as Carderera pointed out, but of his com- position, being put up by him to the memory of a pupil Pedro Monjois. Carde- rera also says that the name of the sculp- tor does not occur in the book of Obits and Anniversaries, which he has scanned, and which one would expect to record a memorial of him. Still, the evidence is negative both ways: if Forment did not necessarily die in 1 533, yet he did not neces- sarily live to quit Huesca. To these two works we must add the retable of S. Pablo in Saragossa, given conjecturally by Cean Bermudez and since confirmed by docu- ments. These three have everything in common: the curious shape, raised over the central compartment, the tall canopied predella, the rich interlacing pattern of the frame, like stallwork; the deep canopies over groups and about figures, and in this Gothic setting, the plastic style of the Florentine Renaissance. This, unluckily, HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY is not all we have of his authentic work: Sr. Tramoyeres20 has unearthed the con- tract for the retablo mayor of Poblet. Dated April 2, 1527, it was drawn between Abbot Pedro Quexas and Damian Forment del regne de Valencia, living in Saragossa. In 1531, a thousand ducats were still due him on it. This is pure Plateresque work, made up of columns and niches from which most of the statues have gone, but one standing figure keeps the grave beauty of early art. Lastly, he was to make a re- table for the cathedral of Barbastro. The base, still unfinished, fell to his daughter at his death, and was only completed in 1560 by a pupil of his, Juan de Liceire. From the plates of retable and base that Sr. M. de Pano publishes, 2 ' I should say that the groups in the base were his and the design of the enframing parts, but not the detail of these: the style shows still the transition to pure Plateresque, to the style of silver-smiths and not of wood- carvers. Everywhere his beauty is a little hard, and the richness is mere overlay. He was of Valencia, not of Aragon, but his 425 Poblet Barbastro AND MONOGRAPHS 426 WAY OF S.JAMES Archaic Lucas Forme nt archaic quality of resistance serves him like a northern strain, and his is a pure but not a stubborn art. In every work of Forment's that we know for his, the groups are enclosed in boxes or niches; the figures have a setting and background as in painted retables; the framework is made of mouldings and vegetation; the foun- dation of the retable is in one great plane, and not bent obliquely. With three Gothic and two plateresque works, we have plenty on which to base a judgment, and as in the case of Maestre Andres, so here in the Forment case, the judgement confirms the first opinion. The retable of S. Domingo is not by the same man as the retable of Huesca. 2 2 There was at least one other Forment, in the sixteenth century, who was also a sculptor by profession: Lucas Forment, in 1552, was witness for Innocencio Berruguete about the recum- bent effigy of Pedro Gonzalez de Leon. He was then twenty-four and had known Berruguete for four years, and his testi- mony was rather flippant, viz.: "If he himself had that piece of work to do HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY he would not do it unless they gave him more." 23 The ritual choir, but not the architec- tural, is denoted by the Spanish use of the word core, and it is necessary to have in English some such distinction of terms when the stalls are looked for in the nave. I venture to propose the revival, merely, of the elder English form quire, as it appears for instance in the rubric that provides for an anthem " in quires and places where they sing." The quire, then, of S. Domingo is covered on the south side with paintings of the life and legend of the saint, in their original sixteenth -century frames. Opposite these is a chapel consecrated to a local devo- tion, with a statue of the titular, the Blessed Jerome Thermosilla, a mitred Abbot in a black cloak over white habit and scapular. In a chapel once dedicated to the Baptist and S. Martin but now oddly enough to S. Teresa, a tall retable that antedates some of the rebuilding and the present invoca- tion,yet dim-glimmering with tempera and leaf -gold, reigns above an altar-tomb of a knight and two wall tombs with recumbent 427 The quire AND MONOGRAPHS 428 WAY OF S.JAMES The tombs effigies, these of the fifteenth century, another with a kneeling pair of the seven- teenth. The central figure is D. Pedro Juarez de Figueroa, Lord of the town of Cuscurrita, of the family of the Dukes of Frias and Counts of Haro, who died in 1418. In one of the niches lies next to his spouse Dona Juana Fernandez, with a book in his hands and two more at his bed's head, D. Pedro Gonzalez de Santo Domingo y Samaniego, sometime Corregidor of Viz- caya and the Encartaciones , founder of one of the Mayorazgos included in the house of the Marquesses of Cerifiuela that possess the place. That word Mayorazgo means here, manifestly, a title and the estate which goes with it, devolved upon the eldest son. It also means property and inherit- ance, and is used at times as a proper personal title of the eldest son before, but also after ( I think) he has come into the property: the Mayorazgo de Labraz is just such a title as the Master of Ballantrae. An old flag hangs here : it is the banner of the Alferez Perpetual of the city, an honour which Philip II bestowed on his guards- HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY man D. Francisco de Ocio in 1566. The trascoro is adorned with huge oil paintings of the Passion; Maestre Andres's carvings have disappeared. In the chapel of the Magdalen, on the north side, lies D. Pedro Carranza, Apostolic Protonotary and Maes- trescuela of Burgos Cathedral, in a lovely rich tomb carved in the head of the niche with the Annunciation. He built the chapel and ordered the tomb in 1539. The chapel of S. Andrew belongs to the Mayorazgo of Tejada: there rests D. Fernando Alonso de Valencia, sometime canon of the cathedral, who died in 1522, and another canon, his kinsman, D. Juan de Valencia: the statues, vested exquisitely and nobly conceived, are from the hand of some unknown Burgalese sculptor. The shrine of S. Dominic stands in the south transept painted and gilded and carved with a wealth of ornament and a complete history of his miracles. The wrought-iron grille is painted and gilded likewise; and the whole is just such another as that of his disciple S. Juan. The statue of the titular was made and placed in 429 Burgalese sculpture AND MONOGRAPHS 430 WAY OF S.JAMES . que canto la gallina asada 1789, the sculptor being Julian S. Martin of Burgos (1762-1801.) Above the west wall of this transept, behind a grating, a fine pair of white fowls cluck and scratch in memory of the most famous of the miracles. 2 * It was painted by Palmezzano, perhaps from Melozzo's designs, in the fifteenth century at Forli, where the chapel is dedicated to S. James, the church to SS. Blaise and Jerome.25 It was painted also in the Aracoeli, in Rome, by one Juvenal de Orvieto, in 1 44 1 . Jacob Sobieski mentions 2 6 that the French Pilgrims, and more espe- cially the Poles, feed the white chickens thinking that if these eat, they will get safely to Santiago. The editor suggests, a little vaguely, that the chickens may have prompted the story. This story, as I conceive, although it occurs within the full light of history, offers a very delicate instance of a mythopoeic process; being probably invented apres coup to explain some Roman relief discovered in the twelfth century here, somewhere along the line of the Roman street. Mrs. Arthur Strong publishes one found in the Rhine- HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 431 land27 which shows all the dramatis per- sonae of this legend: persons seated, by in- tention the family and the judge, and stand- ing, by interpretation the father, and the roasted fowl on the table. The tablet bears suggestions of the cult of Mithras; such Mithras another might easily turn up under the plough in Spain to-morrow. Sieur des Orties. This was the little fold of separate sky Whose pasturing clouds in the soul's atmosphere Drew living light from one continual year. —The House of Life. The day was yet young when at Zal- Entrar de duendo we quitted the modern highway prisa . . . and for some three miles crossed a high rolling moor, odorous with box and rose- mary, flushed with heather, glad with larks, cooled with hill-borne airs, to reach the shrine of S. Juan. So we came down, past a carved stone cross, into a green valley among rustling trees, with broad smooth turf before the door and stone benches in AND MONOGRAPHS I 432 WAY OF S.JAMES . Yes descanso el trabajar the shade for the elders of the hamlet. The Cur a had said his Mass long before, and gone elsewhere to say another, but at the return we encountered him inside his house-door unsaddling the rough ass like a younger and less troubled S. Joseph. S. John his patron I imagine as a figure not unlike this, small and friendly, but keener, with the engineer's face, square chin and overhanging brow, spare cheek and puck- ered eyelid, for he spent his life at laying out roads and then making them, at plan- ning high bridges, wide-arched in mid- stream, narrower in the shallows, and then cutting the stone and placing it. He spent his best days working in the sun and direct- ing other workmen, but he ended them here, in a grassy dell, on a stone bench under whispering trees. He would get up when a pilgrim came around the turn, meet him, and ask the news as they reached a quiet room, swept and scrubbed, deep- windowed and strong of door, cool in mid- summer, warmed in snow-time; and from the hearth where the white ash always winked and lisped, fetch warm water and HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY if needful wash a man's feet; he would dish up a stew, tasting of meat, and savory, out of the little blackened pot that sim- mered there, and fill a horn cup from the bloated wine-skin in the shed, and lastly show a bed, warm, well-shaken up, and clean. He slept usually on the floor himself. He who had given orders so long would hand out a little joke with the piece of bread for breakfast; he would answer questions and remember news and report the state of the roads and the run of the weather to outgoing travellers, from the account of those returning. He whose advice kings had requested would serve the meanest, and tend the foulest, and wait upon the lustiest, — a tiny trot- ting old man, white headed and white handed with age, with tanned and shrivelled face. In 1080 he was born;1 he died in 1163. Certainly he began this church; with three apses, the central one arcaded and adorned with carved capitals and small windows under a second set of arcades. Inside, the semidome of this apse is carried 433 y el servir es seHorio . . . AND MONOGRAPHS 434 WAY OF S. JAMES Late Gothic stalls on four curious heavy ribs that taper upwards, and are nicked along the edges with the same desire to decorate as S. Cuthbert's abbey shows on the high hill at Durham. Each apse is preceded by a pointed barrel-vault, but the high crossing and transept of two bays are of sound transitional vaulting, quadripartite. The nave consists of but a single bay, rebuilt, with six ribs for the aisles and eight for the centre, and is filled up with a choir gallery. The lovely late Gothic stalls, up there, though neglected, recall not un- worthily those that Najera keeps closed away, and those that Celanova boasts were fetched from Sahagun. Behind the north apse a passage leads to the cloister, and by a turning stair, to the upper cloister and tower. The eastern capitals of the transepts, and these of the chapels opening therefrom, are original: on the north side, in a style recalling the tabernacles at 5. Juan de Ducro in Soria, the Annunciation and Nativity; on the south side, more delicate, under tabernacles, the Annuncia- tion and Visitation, the Epiphany and HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY 435 Massacre. The piers of the crossing have finely moulded bases and pretty grijfes; on the western transept face, capitals and balustrade are flamboyant and more commonplace. They belong possibly to the time when Bishop Pablo de S. Maria restored the church, the rents, the income, and the offices, sending Jeronymite monks from Fres del Val, in 1434. 2 Sr. Lam- perez distinguishes in the early work two hands: the saint's own, on the lesser apses, Early Ro- and the lower parts of the central one and manesque the transepts, and another on the high building walls and vaults; the stones, he says, testify.3 F16rez confirms this,4 saying that this building, begun in 1138, got as far as the crossing, being all of stone. He was the most famous architect of his time in Castile, says Cean Bermudez, s and this notion of his genius is confirmed in turn by Sr. Lamperez, who says: "S. Juan de Ortega appears to us as a master of grand and robust conception, and of the purest Romanesque style, which is somewhat archaic in details, and belongs to no deter- mined school of architecture." Here, that AND MONOGRAPHS I 436 WAY OF S.JAMES The Shrine Lord of Nettles is to say, the creative imagination has perfectly fused the matter and brought forth personal and perfect work. The shrine" of the saint, which is simply a rich canopied tomb not unlike the royal tombs in SS. Creus, stands in the chapel of S. Nicholas, now the parish church. This was the original chapel that S. Juan built in thanksgiving to S. Nicholas of Bari, on his return from the Holy Land, and there he must have said his daily Mass for many years, for he was not only monk but priest, ordained by Bishop Pedro Nazar of Najera. In the course of time men had come to live with him; amongst these, two nephews of his named John and Martin, and he had organized them under the Rule of S. Augustine and had his household confirmed by the Pope in Rome in ii38,6 and had his valley confirmed by the King D. Sancho in 1 142, so that in his testament of 1152, he calls himself quaintly Senior de Hortega, the Lord of Nettles. The chapel was rebuilt by Isabella, who had come in pilgrimage, seeking a child, in 1477: now the saint was himself an only HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY child, for twenty years desired, and he "was an especial mediator in this need," says the chronicler. He gave to Isabel her three tragic children; the prince D. John, cut off in his first flowering, who lies inurned at Avila; Joanna the Mad, and the most unhappy of English queens, called Catharine of Aragon. It is recorded that when the monks in the year 1450 in the time of Bishop Alonso of Carthagena, Fray Gomez de Carrion7 being then prior, wished to translate the body of the Saint into the church, and to that intent, in the presence of many nobles and prelates, opened the tomb, there came out from it a multitude of white bees, with a sweet odour; they hummed about, they even stung the obstinate, and the tomb was closed again. Here we are again in the richest vein of folklore: all over the world bees are souls, and it becomes apparent how under the form of bees he kept the hosts of unborn souls, ready for women who should come to beg for babies. There is a Tyrolese figure of Frau Holda who lived in a moun- 437 White bees AND MONOGRAPHS 438 WAY OF S.JAMES Frau Holda S. Rita Helper and Harbourer tain and kept the souls in a big chest, not half so pat as this. S. Rita of Cascia has also a swarm of these white bees, but as she was beatified only in the seventeenth century and canonized in the twentieth it is not easy to discover from her legend as then drawn up and confirmed what she does with them. A pretty story Florez also preserves, of an ivory crucifix which the king D. Alfonso gave to him, in which he took much delight and carried it about and conversed with it, and one day when he had no one to assist at Mass, the Crucifix responded and helped him to the end of Mass. Cer- tain of his miracles as Helper and Har- bourer are carved around the base of the cenotaph (the body itself lies in a stone coffin underneath) much as those of S. Sebald may be read about his shrine in Nuremberg: on the east side S. Nicholas appearing to him in a ship at sea: on the south, the restoration of a man that fell asleep by the roadside and a loaded cart passed over him; and the return of the robbers who had stolen the saint's cows HISPANIC NOTES THE WAY and wandered all night in a fog, and in the morning found themselves with their booty at the convent door. The north side begins with the history of how his ass, when he was once in Najera, broke its headstall, and the saint when cob- bling it wounded his own eye with the needle, but when the Bishop came to con- dole with him, God restored the sight and he arose joyfully to greet his noble guect. The other history is not in Ribadeneyra or Florez: two dead men lie under trees, the saint prays and anon a monk receives the two men under a florid Gothic door. An altar set against the west end hides the remaining subject. It was set up in 1474; the verja is dated 1561. The style is charming, fresh, luxuriant, and delicate. With James and his brother and cousin, we could wish to make three tabernacles, for it is good for us to be here. Spes lumen splendor* is the only inscription on the shrine: perhaps it means that John of the Nettles was set, like a lighted candle, in a golden candle-stick. These moors are a part of the mountains Spes lumen splendor AND MONOGRAPHS 440 WAY OF S.JAMES of Oca, and from the higher levels we looked across green tilth and unripe har- vest, where church-towers drew tree-tops about them, under a low-hung sky, to a lofty blue chain of hills, along which sunstreaks chased the shadow-streaks of . . . y salir corriendo rain. From Zalduendo to Burgos the road is modern and rather dull, easily flowing over the unfrequented hills till the high shoulder of Miraflores was lifted into sight at a turning, and in the basin of the Arlanzon the city lay, every spire and tower plain, familiar, and very fair. I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 441 NOTES: BOOK ONE CHAPTER I See, for the matter of this chapter, the following books, used often too freely or too generally for page reference: Dieulafoy, Art ^n Spain and Portugal — Strzygowsky, Orient oder Rom — Id., Klein- Asien — Butler, Architecture and other Arts — Spiers, Architecture East and West — Rivoira Le Origini delta Architettura Lombarda — Lasteyrie, L' Architecture Religieuse en France — Michel, Histoire de 1' Art — Lampe'rez, His- toria de la arquitectura cristiana espanola en la edad media — Street, Some Account of Gothic Architecture in Spain. 1 Gayet, L'Art Arabe, p. 7. 1 Lampe'rez, Revue Hispanique: 1907; vol. XVI, p. 565. * Phene Spiers, Architecture East and West, PP- 153-198. « In The Thousand and One Churches with No. 32, plan p. 199, cf. S. Juan de Banos; with a base in this church, p. 220, and a capital, p. 216, cf. S. Miguel de Linio: with Ala Klisse, p. 451, cf. Sahagun. This is the extent of likeness that I have found AND MONOGRAPHS I 442 WAY OF S . JAMES among the churches explored by Miss Bell and Sir William Ramsey. * Since these pages were written, that brilliant and picaresque figure in contempo- rary letters, has passed into the greater glory. In January of 1917, Emile Bertaux died for France: Dona ei requiem sempiternam. It seems best, however, to let the pages stand as they were once written in the hope of meeting his eye and enjoying his commentary. 6 The words are: "Le maitre d'oeuvres . . . de la cathedral de Tolede etait Frangais, s'appellait Petrus Petri, Pierre fils de Pierre, et mourut en 1290." In the plan of the cathedral "cette alternance ne se voit que la et dans tin dessin de 1'album de Villard d'Honnecourt, donne" comme le fruit de sa collaboration avec Pierre de Corbie. Le maitre d'oeuvres Petrus Petri serait-il Pierre de Corbie, mort en ce cas tres ag£, ou son fils. " C. Enlart, in Michel, II, ii, 1 1 1. i He wrote Les Architects des Cathedrals Gothiques. 8 The Commendatore Rivoira is not exempt from this charge in his latest book on L'Archi- tettura Musulmana. » Out of a clear sky comes an American instance to hand. "If the unmistakable evidence of northern imitation did not exist in the literature itself, the strong current of influence in the arts would justify us in searching for it or even, examples failing, in assuming that its traces were lost. The arts spring in their entirety from across the Pyre- nees, and are a voucher for the French domi- HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 443 nation which we have already discovered [read, asserted] in much of the epic, popular and cultured, in religious, lyric, and drama- tic verse, in encyclopedic, sententious, and narrative prose." The false process of the first sentence being assisted by the false statement of the second (italicized here for convenience) the great gulf between influence and origin is safely passed. V, Post, Mediae- val Spanish Allegory, pp. 278-280. 10 Kleinclauz, Claus Sluter, p. 42. 11 Album de Villard de Honnecourt, pub- lished by the Bibliotheque Nationale and printed by Berthaud Freres, Paris. CHAPTER II Gaston Paris, Histoire Poetique de Charle- magne — Dozy, Recherches, II, Le Faux Turpin, pp. 372 seqq. — B£dier, Les Legendes Epiques, III — Fita and Guerra, Recuerdos de un viaje — Baring Gould, Curious Myths of the Middle Ages. 1 B£dier, Les Legendes Epiques, III, 98-9. 1 Thomas, L'Entree d'Espagne, Societ6 des Anciens Textes Francais, Paris, 1913. 1 Cf. Roger of Hovenden Rfrum Brit. Script. II, 147: "Port of Cise was called Port of Spain." « This identification is probably wrong. The Sant Mart of hearsay was more likely S. Marta de Tera in the diocese of Palencia, a pilgrimage place with a Romanesque church AND MONOGRAPHS I 444 WAY OF S . JAMES and sculpture of the decadent school of Tou- louse. * Mussafia, La Prise de Pampeluna, Vienna, 1864. 6 So substantially, says M. Bedier, op. cit., HI, 134- ^ La Prise de Pampelune, 1. 5686. " Id., 1. 5836. 9 Id., 1. 6025. 10 Alton, Anseis von Karthago, in Biblio- thek des Litterarischen Vereins in Stuttgart. Vol. 194, Tubingen, 1892. "/<*., 1.3538. 1 * In this matter of S. Charlemagne cf. Gas- ton Paris, Histoire Poetique de Charlemagne, pp. 58-66. 1 J Bouillet, Liber de Miraculis S. Fidis, 1897. CHAPTER III Pita et Vinson, Le Codex de S. Jacques — Fita y Guerra, Recuerdos de un viaje — Acta Sanctorum — Dozy, Recherches. 1 Delisle, Notes sur le Recueil: Passim. 2 Analecta Hymnica, XVII, 218. » Murgufa, Galicia, p. 419. * For the dates and incidents of the Miracles v. Appendix. 5 Fita, Recuerdos de un viaje, p. 43. 6 1 should not have analysed the Codex so fully in this and the following chapter, if I had known sooner that it figures in Ward's Catalogue of Romances! It is also discussed I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 445 by Friedel under the title Etudes Compostel- lanes in Otia Merseiana, but to little purpose, for lack of comprehension how things stood in Spain. 7 G. Paris, Histoire Poetique de Charlemagne, p. 58. *Caxton, Golden Legend, "The Life of S. James the More." ' Fita, Recuerdos, p. 69. 10 For the Apparition at Simancas consult Gonzalo de Berceo in the Life of S. Milldn: . . . Vieron dues personas fermosas y lucientes, mucho eran mas blancas que las nevies recientes; vinien en dos caballos plus blancos que cristal, arrnas quales non vio nunqua omne mortal: el un tenia croza, mitra pontifical, el otro una cruz, omne non vio tal. . . . Et que tenia la mitra e la croza en mano, essi fue el apostol de Sant Juan hermano, el que la cruz nia e el capiello piano, esse fue Sant Millan el varon cogellano. Vida de S. Milldn, stanzas 437, 438, 447. "P. Claudel, Corona Benignitatis: Anni Dei, p. 83. 12 Fita, Recuerdos, p. 63. '* Congres Scientifique, Bruxelles, 1894: L. Duchesne, Les A nciens Recueils des Legendes Apocryphes. 1 < Gomez Carrillo, Flores de penitencia, pp. 11-14. AND MONOGRAPHS I 446 WAY OF S. JAMES 1 s Duchesne, £. Jacques en Galice, in A nna- les du Midi, 1900, pp. 145 seqq. 16 Cf. Espana sagrada, XX, 473. CHAPTER IV Fita et Vinson, Le Codex de S. Jacques — Daux, Les Chansons des Pelerins de S. Jacques — Baron Bonnot d'Houet, Pelerinage d'un Paysan Picard — Fita y Guerra, Recuerdos de un viaje-— B£dier, Les Legendes Epiques — Friedel, Etudes Compostellanes. 1 Published, the former in Fita, Recuerdos de un viaje, p. 45, the latter in Leclerc, Histoire Litteraire de la France, XXI, 276. Also in Dreves, Analecta Hymnica, XVII, 210, 213. * Fita y Guerra, Recuerdos de un viaje, p. 45- a Murguia, Galicia, p. 45. « L6pez Ferreiro, Historia de la S. A. M. Iglesia, VI, 51, 84. s Pierce Butler, Legenda Aurea, p. 12, citing Echard, Scriptores Ordinis Prasdicatorum, I, 514. This quotation , which I am compelled to take at second hand, was certainly not under- stood by Dr. Butler. Considering the life and acts of Fray D. Berenguel and his devo- tion to S. James for protection during the stormy months that followed his election, it is likely that what he projected was a much fuller collection of miracles brought up to date. Indeed, in Caxton's Golden Legend I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES the story of Hermogenes and that of the Translation are given "as Master John Be- leth saith," and the miracles thereafter "as Calixtus the pope saith," and "Hugo of S. Victor rehearseth," and "Hugh the abbot of Cluny witnesseth." In short, they corres- pond fairly well with the Book of S. James. How much of this was in the original text of the Genoese, I am not in a position to say; only I know that the loss of Archbishop Beren- guel's intended compilation, can never be enough deplored. 6 De P seudo-Turpino (1865) and Romania XI (1882). 7 Fita y Guerra, op. cit., p. 44. 8 In Otia Merseiana. 9 M. Adrien Lavergne says (Revue de Gas- c Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, I, 545. 4 Lemons professes a I'ecole du Louvre, I, 577-579- s Lefevre-Pontalis, Congres archeologique de France, 1913, p. 302: an article also in 1903. 6 Iturralde y Suit quotes Historia del monasterio de Leyre, in Las grandes ruinas mondsticas de Navarra, pp. 307, sqq. 1 0p. cit., I, 560. 8 Museo espanol de antiguedades, V, 209; also in Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, I, i, 441. » S. Luke, i, 41. 10 To confirm or connect this consult, in addition, Lasteyrie, L 'Architecture religieuse en France, Baum, Romanesque Architecture in France, and the fine series of plates in the AND MONOGRAPHS I 454 WAY OF S . JAMES series called Archives du Commission des Monuments Historiques. Sanguesa: 1 Diccionario geogrdfico-historico I, 297. 2 Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono. II, 488. J Michel, Histoire de I'Art, II, 258, 261. « Historic, de la arquitectura, I, 602. 5 Pons occurs in the second Chanson des Pelerins: — "A Lusignan avons passe", a Saintes, a Pont, puis a Blaye." Quoted by Lavergne, Revue de Gascoigne, 1887, p. 175. 6 Genesis, iii, 15-16. i Minns, Scythians and Greeks, passim; M. Anatole de Roumejoux, L'Ornementation Merovingien et Carolingien, in Congre s A rchio- logiquede France, 1894, PP- 3X7> SP.P.' 8 Madrazo, op. cit., p. 495. ' Id. ibid., p. 493. 10 Noticias de los arquitectos y la arqui- tectura, I, 87. 1 ' Op. et loc. cit. 11 Op. cit., pp. 27, 92, 95. 1 J Pelayo Quintero, Sillas de coro, p. 112. CHAPTER IV Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, (s. v. Pam- plona) — Iturralde y Suit, Misceldnea — Ma- drazo, Navarra y Logrono, II — Alvarado, Guia del viajero en Pamplona — LampeYez, Historia I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 455 de la arquitectura — Bertaux, in Michel, His- toire de 1' Art, II, ii — Street, Gothic Architecture in Spain. 1 Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, II, 212- 216; Moret, Annales, xvii, c. vi, § i. 2 Historia de la arquitectura, I, 348. J Quoted by Madrazo, op. cit., II, 341. « Michel, Historia de PArt, II, ii. i Id. id. 6 Cf. Cursor Mundi, 11, 16859-16868 (E. E. T. S.). ? Madrazo, op. cit., II, p. 290, note. 8 Madrazo, op. cit., II, pp. 317-318, 521- » Madrazo, op. cit., II, pp. xlix, 1, Ii, and 351-353. A digest of this in French was pub- lished by Bertaux in the Gazette de Beaux Arts. 1 ° Exposicion retrospectivo de Zaragoza, p. 41 . 1 * Madrazo, op. cit. , 1 1, pp. 337-8. I oweafinal chance to examine this treasure, more jealously locked up every year, to the landlord of the Grand Hotel. After examining the houses of La Francesa and 5. Julian, 1 were ungrateful not to pause and praise this one, where were found European ways and cooks, quiet and space that seemed luxurious, rest, and, from the landlord, untiring kindness and interest. CHAPTER V Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, II and III — La Fuente, Historia eclesidstica. III, IV, and Espafta sagrada, L — Llaguno, Noticias de los AND MONOGRAPHS t 456 WAY OF S . JAMES arquitectos y arquitectura, I — Diccionario geo- grdfico-historico de Espana, I — Yanguas, Dic- cionario de antiguedades de Navarra — Altamira, Historic, de Espana y de la civilizacion espanola — Lamperez, Historia de la arquitectura — Itu- rralde y Suit, Misceldnea and Las grandes ruinas mondsticas. 1 Cultura Espanola, VII, November, 1907. 2 It would seem, however, that the open arcading stuck in the mind of thirteenth- century pilgrims, for it figures in Thurkill's Vision. V. Appendix. Puente la Reyna: 1 Jaufre Rudel. 1 Cf. Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, II, p. 200, note; and Iturralde y Suit, Misceldnea, 73-77- 3 Cf. Lamp£rez, Historia de la arquitectura, I. 309-339, and Altamira, Historia de Espana, vols. I and II, § 216-555, passim. 4 Traggia, in Diccionario geogrdfico-his- torico, I, i, 263, s. v. Puente la Reyna; Ma- drazo, op. cit., II, 538-540; Iturralde y Suit, Las grandes ruinas, 242. s Op. cit., I, 617. 6 Op. cit., II, 540-547. 7 Llaguno, Noticias de los arquitectos y ar- quitectura, i, 87. 8 Madrazo, op. cit., II, 547-548. £1 Sepulcro: 1 Traggia, in Diccionario geogrdfico-historico I> i. 387, s. v. Torres. I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 457 1 Briz Martinez, Historia de 5. Juan de la Pena, p. 806. J Cf. Street, Gothic Architecture in Spain, I, 130, 260. « La Fuente, Espana sagrada, L, 139. * Id. id., 143. 4 Cf. La Fuente, op. cit., 133-138. 7 The cross of the Order is the double cross fleurie, a cross of Lorraine, with two bars end- ing in fleur-de-lys. Torres wears that with a difference. At the present moment it is familiar enough as the badge of the 79th Division, U. S. A. 8 La Fuente, op. cit., 1, 141. » Cf. A. Kingsley Porter, The Development of Lombard Sculpture in the Twelfth Century, in American Journal of Archaeology, 1915, vol. XIX, p. 148, note. 10 Iturralde y Suit, Las cruzadas de Navarra en tierra santa in Misceldnea, pp. 24-30. CHAPTER VI Yepes, Coronica general de la Orden de S. Benito — Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, III — Govantes, Diccionario geogrdfico-historico de Espana, I — Iturralde y Suit, Las grandes ruinas mondsticas, and Misceldnea — Lam- pe"rez, Historia de la arquitectura — Llaguno, Noticias de los arquitectos y arquitectura — Serrano- Fatigati,Pcrtadasartisticas — Venturi, Historia delVArte, III — A. Kingsley Porter, Lombard Architecture. 1 Iturralde y Suit, Portada de la iglesia de AND MONOGRAPHS I 458 WAY OF S . JAMES 5. Romdn en Cirauqui, in Las grandes ruinas mondsticas, pp. 246-249. Cf. the church door of Montmoreau in France and, in gen- eral, Lasteyrie, L1 Architecture Religieuse en France, figs. 235, 378, 581, 582; likewise S. Michel de 1' Aiguille in Le Puy, where the Estella road was well known. I Traggia, in Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, I, i, p. 264, s. v. Estella. J Yanguas, Diccionario de las antigiiedades de Navarra, s. v. Estella. * Traggia, op. et loc. cit. 5 Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, III, 49, 125- 6Caxton, Golden Legend, The Life of S. Andrew the Apostle. ' Fine plates of this portal, among others, may be consulted in Serrano-Fatigati, Por- tadas artisticas. 8 Madrazo, op. cit., 53-56. » Id. ib., p. 98. 10 Traggia, op. cit., 268. II Quoted by Madrazo, op. cit., p. 94, from an unpublished MS. entitled, Memorias his- toricas de Estella, compuestas y dedicadas d la ciudad por el licenciado D. Baltasar de Le- zaun y Andia, abogado de los Reales Concejos y vecino de ella. Ano de 1710. — Anadidas con algunas noticias que no tuvo presentes el his- toriador, por otro hijo de la misma ciudad, en el ano 1792. 13 Cf. Venturi, Historia dell'Arte, III, pp. 64, 296, 937. '* Op. cit., p. 297. '< Viaje de Espana, XII, 309. HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 459 'sLlaguno, Noticias de los arquitectos y la arquilectura, I, 71, 105. Irache: 1 Yepes, Coronica general de la Orden de S. Benito, III, 165. » Madrazo, op. a/., 127. * " Thou shalt get kings, though thou be none": Macbeth, I, iii. * Garran, 5. Maria la Real de Ndjera, p. 23. s Op. cit., iii., 365. 6 Historia de la arquitectura, I, 599; v. also 447. 595 sqq. Madrazo says, op. cit., 136, that there were once tribunes above the aisles, now blocked; Sr. LampeYez, however, testifies, p. 596, that there was no more than a beginning. Ma- drazo 's whole discussion of the abbey, pp. 128- 155. is admirable, drawing from Yepes and other sources both rare and unprinted, and likewise from the data of D. R. Velazquez Bosco's expedition in 1883, with his students, among whom was Sr. Lampe'rez. 7 Yepes, op. cit., i., 240. CHAPTER VII Thomas, L' Entree d'Espagne — Madrazo, Na- varra y Logrono, III — Diccionario geogrdfico- historico — Froissart, Chronicles of France, England, and Spain — Lampeiez, Historia de la arquitectura — Garran, S. Maria la Real — Pere L6pez de Ayala, Cronica del Rey Pedro. 1 V. Appendix. AND MONOGRAPHS I 460 WAY OF S. JAMES 1 Traggia, Diccionario geogrdfico-historico s. v. Los Areas I, i, p. 456. » Madrazo, Navarra y Logrono, III, 158-9, 1 68. « Established by Charles the Noble in 1423, extinct under John II, in 1461. V. Diccion- ario geogrdfico-historico de Espafia, I, it, 44. s Govantes, Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, Secci6n II, p. 107. The Spires of Logrono: 1 Purchas his Pilgrims, VII. JRiano, Viajes de extranjeros, p. 241. * Jornada de Tarazona, p. 57. * Govantes, Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, Secci6n II, Logrono, 106. s Navarra y Logrono, III, 560. 6 LaFuente, Espana sagrada, L, p. 140. 7 Lampe"rez, Historia de la arquitectura, II, 289. 'Caxton, Golden Legend, The Life of S. Bartholomew. » Madrazo, op. cit., Ill, 202. Along the Battlefield: 1 Pere Lopez de Ayala, Cronica de los reyes de Castilla, vol. I, pp. 557, 559. 1 Froissart, Chronicles of France, England, and Spain, Bk. I., chap, ccxli. 3 Caxton's Lyf of the most Noble and Crys- ten Prince, Charles the Great, Early English Text Society, extra series, XXXV, ii, 221. < The English romances are too farcical to supply happy quotations, nor is the measure other than the butter- woman 's rank to market : I HISPANIC NOTES NOTES 461 "Charles com to Nasers — with his doussy peers — to see that Paynim. He asked withouten fail — of King Charles battayl — to fight against him: Charles wondered tho — when he saw him go — he beheld him each-a limb, For sithen he was y-bore — he no had y-seen before — none that was so grim." — Rouland and Vernagu. E. E.T.S., vol. XXXIX, ii. S. Mary the Royal: 1 The Chronology of the Kings of Ndjera, as given by Fr. Moret, was published by Govantes in his Diccionario Geogrdfico-His- torico de Espana, Secci6n II, where I found it, pp. 131-133, and supported by documenta- tion in Appendix 3, pp. 245-248. a Dozy, Keener ches I, xiv. JJ. R. Mene'ndez Pidal, Primer a cronica general, cap. 791 ; pp. 474~475- 4 Cahier et Martin. Nouveaux Melanges, IV, 39- .* Op. cit., II., 502. This architect's analysis and judgement of the building, though just, is severe, and allows little for the splendour of magnitude. ' Garran, op. cit., pp. 72-3. CHAPTER VIII Lampe'rez, Historia de la arquitectura — Madrazo, Navarra y LogroHo, III — Govantes, • AND MONOGRAPHS I 462 WAY OF S. JAMES Diccionario historico-geogrdfico, Seccion II — Marti y Mons6, Estudios historico-artisticos. 1 Diccionario geogrdfico-historico, Secci6n II, pp. 176-180. 1 Navarra y Logrono, III, 695-6. 3 Ribadeneyra, Flos sanctorum, II, 68.